Custom SkyRay King SRK Driver

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comfychair
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oRAirwolf wrote:
Kickstarter this!!!

Why? It's already being done, that's for things that need outside funding. This one just isn't ready yet.

B42
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texaspyro wrote:
I’ve done some testing on the thermal throttling code. Originally I had let it adjust the PWM up or down based upon the temperature, but this caused some problems. The temperature reading would bounce up and down a degree and the shifting PWM level would causing the light to flicker. I now only let the throttling go downward.

At the full 9 amps the case temperature reaches the 44C step down threshold after 1.5 minutes (the driver is about 9 degrees C above the case temperature). After around 10-12 minutes the light has stepped down about 50% and the temperature no longer rises. If the case reaches 60C the light shuts off completely.

Also, after doing some of the thermal torture tests, the Vf of the LEDs has shifted enough that they will no longer light up at that 0.25 lumen firefly level. It looks like the dimmest it will reliably do is around 6 lumens.

Sounds good that way too: you can always turn it up again manually then. Though I know a couple would love it, I’m not sure how many people can ever use .25 lumen anyways… Great job, excited on this, it will make SRK useful again!

And 1billion years/114years/2 years = no real difference for any realistic use in that range Smile

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Ive just gotta say, thats one nice looking driver. Youve sure come a long way with the firmware too.

If it ever fails, you could probably frame it and hang it on your wall. :bigsmile:

Ford Prefect
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texaspyro
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Here is a picture of the thermal management in action. X marks the spot when the driver reached 45C (the outer case was 38C) and the thermal management kicked in. That was at 2 minutes into the run (9A, 36 watts to the emitters). That big blip in the lumens plot is the light blinking 4 times to tell you about it.

As the temperature increased, the light started PWMing the LED intensity down. The temperature stabilized at around 55C. By then, the driver and the case were at the same temperature. The light started out at 2500 lumens and was down to 960 lumens when it stabilized. If the temperature had reached 60C, the light would have shut off.

The yellow temperature plot is a an IR thermometer. The red plot is a thermocouple on the head near the screw joint to the battery compartment. I had a warning alarm set to sound when the thermocouple reached 55C.

B42
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That’s pretty cool Texaspyro Smile Will we need to change anything except the driver to use it?

I have to say I did find out a way I can use my Skyray Kung however with my own free thermal management: I walked in the rain on high for 1 hour and no fried hands!

texaspyro
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B42 wrote:
Will we need to change anything except the driver to use it?

Nope… pry out old driver, unsolder wires to LEDs and switch (hint, label or tie-wrap the LED wires as you unsolder them. It’s easy to confuse which wires go to which LED), sand edge of new driver to fit your light, solder wires to new driver, press into the light, enjoy. The driver is made a tiny bit oversize to allow for manufacturing tolerances in the lights and driver.

schlieb01
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Good lord, that looks awesome! I want one

I like food, food tastes good

Sirius9
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awesomeness Rev1.2 Silly

 

Shur
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Who do I send my light to for this and any other improvements??? Smile

ttrevs1
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Put me down for 3 your work on this driver is simply amazing Love

JohnnyMac
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My new Solarstorm SP03 is begging for this beast driver!  At 48mm it should swap right in.  It'd turn a good light with great potential into a great light with fulfilled potential.

Werner
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Is there a way to disable over temperature shut off, maybe some weird clicking or so…I am asking because I don’t feel comfortable with a light which switches offs in a moment I really don’t need it?

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Wow, this is looking better and better.  Count me in for one.

mattthemuppet
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great work on the thermal control. The flickering you saw with auto up and down might be the reason why Taskled drivers also have just a one way response to overtemp.

a couple of Q. Do you know what the LED temp is when case temp hits 55C? Temp at the star would be great, as I think we can infer junction temp from that and current draw. I know that this will vary depending on light design and so on, but I can’t remember much data showing what the delta is (other than the conjectural 10C between LED and driver).

Also, response temp is set to 55C because of comfort (hand held) not to protect the electronics, right? How does the light cope with some light airflow? I’m curious as my application would be bike lights, which generally have more airflow but smaller bodies.

texaspyro
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mattthemuppet wrote:
a couple of Q. Do you know what the LED temp is when case temp hits 55C? Temp at the star would be great, as I think we can infer junction temp from that and current draw. I know that this will vary depending on light design and so on, but I can’t remember much data showing what the delta is (other than the conjectural 10C between LED and driver).

Also, response temp is set to 55C because of comfort (hand held) not to protect the electronics, right? How does the light cope with some light airflow? I’m curious as my application would be bike lights, which generally have more airflow but smaller bodies.

Once the light heats up the driver, case, and star are pretty much at the same temperature. Junction temp as a function of star temp depends upon the thermal characteristics of the star.

Any airflow over the unit would considerably reduce the heating. Since my thermal management is based upon actual temperature and not some timer, it would delay or prevent the thermal management from kicking in.

Also, right now, once the driver temp falls to 42C, the thermal management is switched back off.

texaspyro
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Werner wrote:
Is there a way to disable over temperature shut off, maybe some weird clicking or so…I am asking because I don’t feel comfortable with a light which switches offs in a moment I really don’t need it?

You would have quite a bit of warning before the light switched off. It would signal the start of thermal management by 4 blinks. The the light level would start stepping down over several minutes. It would be at 25% of the desired value before it shut off. If you were concerned about be left in the dark with a boogie man under your bed, you should switch the light to a lower level once the thermal management started.

texaspyro
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JohnnyMac wrote:

My new Solarstorm SP03 is begging for this beast driver!  At 48mm it should swap right in.  It’d turn a good light with great potential into a great light with fulfilled potential.

Uhhh, this driver is 46mm… did you measure your SP03 driver properly or just eyeball it?

JohnnyMac
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texaspyro wrote:
JohnnyMac wrote:

My new Solarstorm SP03 is begging for this beast driver!  At 48mm it should swap right in.  It'd turn a good light with great potential into a great light with fulfilled potential.

Uhhh, this driver is 46mm... did you measure your SP03 driver properly or just eyeball it?
Calipers, baby!  That's a bummer if it is too small.  Oh well...I will just have to put one in my non-functioning SRK then.  I have a DrJones electronic switched driver to use in my SP03 if yours won't fit so no biggie there. Wink  It's odd they used different size drivers in the two since only the thread pitch appears to be different between the two lights.  The bodies aren't interchangeable like they are between the SRK and the Terminator.  Would have been too good to be true if your driver fit the SP03. I guess you can't have everything work out perfectly. 
texaspyro
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JohnnyMac wrote:
Would have been too good to be true if your driver fit the SP03. I guess you can’t have everything work out perfectly. 

Well, how big is the lip on the driver cavity? You might be able to tack the driver in with some glue (or perhaps ring the driver board with some epoxy and grind it to fit). The back side of the driver does not need to make electrical contact with the body.

Werner
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So no bypass off the thermal shutdown possible? Why?
We are all grown up and should have the freedom to switch a light on in high mode if we want so.

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Werner wrote:
So no bypass off the thermal shutdown possible? Why? We are all grown up and should have the freedom to switch a light on in high mode if we want so.

because he is building a driver exactly how he wants it... im sure if you wanted you can program out the thermal drop down

JohnnyMac
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Pulsar wrote:

Werner wrote:
So no bypass off the thermal shutdown possible? Why? We are all grown up and should have the freedom to switch a light on in high mode if we want so.

because he is building a driver exactly how he wants it... im sure if you wanted you can program out the thermal drop down

+1
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texaspyro wrote:
JohnnyMac wrote:
Would have been too good to be true if your driver fit the SP03. I guess you can't have everything work out perfectly. 

 

Well, how big is the lip on the driver cavity? You might be able to tack the driver in with some glue (or perhaps ring the driver board with some epoxy and grind it to fit). The back side of the driver does not need to make electrical contact with the body.
Probably very viable options.  I'm not sure how large the lip is since I haven't removed the board yet.  It is right up against the switch and appears to already have some clear glue in spots holding the driver in.  After I do a full review I will risk tearing it open to have a peek inside.  I'd hate to break the light before I have a chance to play with it some more. Smile  I'm sure the lip is more than 1mm so it should be able to be centered in and glued in place. Great idea!
Pulsar
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bend a piece of solid copper wire around the driver and solder it on? 

texaspyro
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Werner wrote:
So no bypass off the thermal shutdown possible? Why?

The batteries are at a temperature close to what the driver is at. The space-time continuum can get very angry if they get too warm.

comfychair
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Pulsar wrote:

bend a piece of solid copper wire around the driver and solder it on? 

+1 Was going to make that very same recommendation as I was reading my way down.

The ground ring on the driver only needs to make electrical contact to the front face of the battery tube, the head does not even need to be grounded (but good contact will help with the thermal monitoring function).

Werner
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60°C is nothing to matter about with liion…
And that is a temperature many feel as hot…so they are warned already twice.
I would be glad if you implement a thermal shutdown bypass, maybe it could be switched on again and switch off again after five minutes or so.

It’s better to have this feature and never need it, as to need it and not have it.

toysareforboys
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Oh damn, put me down for one Smile

I also would like either the ability to change the thermal kick in temp (45c is ludicrous), i’m sure you could program that to be adjustable by UI, or have an option to disable it all together.

-Jamie M.

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Is this a tease or will this be a reality…cuz I want one!

No one, after lighting a lamp, puts it away in a cellar nor under a basket, but on the lampstand, so that those who enter may see the light.

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