Yes...
See the four bare aluminum areas? Stock, those are anodized, so all the current has to go through the little M2.5 screws. And the screws are very often found to be loose once the tailcap can be removed.
In the pic I've scraped away the anodizing so the plate itself can carry the current independent of the screw threads.
Aah, gotcha. I guess I’ll have to look into that myself then. Maybe I can improvise a strap wrench with an old belt or something. I might also bump up the wire thickness a bit, they looked a bit weak sauce to me.
Good luck with getting the tail cap off. I have tried heat, cold, jar openers and strap wrenches with no luck. I don’t want to be a wet rag but the only SRK I seen where someone got the tail cap off the barrel was destroyed in the process. I think this only applies to the fancyfire SRK’s currently being sold. I don’t know how long they have been securing them like that.
EDIT: I received my second “fancyfire” SRK today and it is not glued together.
About midway down this page is an image of a destroyed SRK complete with glue on the tail cap threads. UV-S5(SRK) tailcap removal?!
resistor mod + button mod done, but how i change UI? ATtiny maybe?
Very nice first post Jeepster! Yup, seems like going with JANJG 105C master/slave/slave is a good way to go. Something I've wanted to do for a while but just haven't had time.
I was pulled off of getting these things built in quantuty in order to do some high-paying real world work… hope to get back on this driver real soon now… still haven’t heard back from Pilot about having PCBs made.
Nice switch mod :)
What switch is that? What did you need to do to make it fit?
Looks like a standard “vandal proof” switch. Here’s a random one of many: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Red-LED-Light-24V-16mm-SPDT-Stainless-Steel-Round-Momentary-Push-Button-Switch-/300824175675?pt=AU_B_I_Electrical_Test_Equipment&hash=item460a84a43b
They come in all kinds of sizes, colours and switch configs.
Hi Jeepster and welcome to the forum. Don't know if you saw this, but Post 97 has some info that would enable one to wire in a Attiny. There is an example of one done at Post 100. I've been thinking of trying it out on a SRK and on a TR-3T6.
I don't know if anyone's exposed the board layout like this before, with my luck it was already done 3 years ago...
There are some missing/damaged traces at the center left, shouldn't be an issue since the other two sectors are the same components just arranged differently. Red line is the path of the tiny little trace on the opposite side that runs between the + and - planes.
Yes i was trying to do that, but im not good at writing code. Is there something to know about torroids? something about PWM? I updated my convoy to NLITE, thats not problem. I ordered some attinys…
and button is from ebay, it had to file flat at two sides to fit.
That's pretty cool Comfy. I haven't seen that anywhere.
Jeepster,
Unfortunately, I don't know the answers to your question. I would guess the inductors are not needed with such a high PWM as the Nlite, but that is just a guess. I was planning on leaving them in place at first to see what happens.
I haven't really thought it through yet as far as how to control the Attiny. I was thinking of trying to use a normal reverse clickie kind of switch that connected between battery positive and the VCC pin on the Attiny. Wouldn't need to be a high amperage switch since it would only drive the mcu and the PWM signal that the MCU outputs.
EDIT: Post 14 for the following thread has a Attiny wiring schematic. You can see power is also applied to pin 7 for voltage monitoring. I don't know if it has to get power, but it would be easy to duplicate the ciruit of the Nanjg 105C so that you have low voltage protection.
This is on the back of my XML2 Quad. The braid is polished to remove high points on top of springs.
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> and button is from ebay, it had to file flat at two sides to fit.
I'd love some more details... :)
Most of these buttons seem to big for the hole.
So here's my plan (only requires 4 wires):
I'm numbering the MCU pin pads counter-clockwise starting on the bottom left. Nanjg should not need any heat sinking. So it will just float.
See any potential problems with this?
Switch would need to be high current clicky… Nanjg drivers don’t work with momentary switches. Dr Jones has firmware that does…
Why? it would only be powering the MCU.
How would you turn the light on/off. Button would have to be held down to keep the light on. With driver circuit powered and CPU off, no telling what would happen.
The electronic switch would need to be replaced with an on/off type switch.
The rest of the SRK driver always has power in the stock configuration. The FETs don't allow power to flow unless positive voltage is applied to the Gates. With positive power cut to the Nanjg, no positive can flow to the Gates.
EDIT: I'm aware DrJones sells an electronic switch version (though he has not posted prices I'm aware of) and I'm looking forward to your driver when it comes out. I'm doing this just because I can. I don't see it being a solution I will keep in the long run.