Custom SkyRay King SRK Driver

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tabetha
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You texaspyro are a god, I and I am sure my fellow flashers really appreciate what you are doing, I’m defo in for 2 as soon as ready, hope it comes with a instruction sheet!!
Keep up the awsome work, and thanks.
tabs

AlexHH
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@leaftye: Thanks for your answer, it helped a lot!

~ carpe noctem ~

comfychair
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The machining tolerances on the latest batch(es) of SRK clones are horrible. Parts aren't concentric, meaning there will be a thick side and a paper thin side. And the threads don't mate correctly, some of them you can 'walk' the head off the battery tube threads without rotating it like normal. The o-ring on the battery tube doesn't touch the bore in the head because it's machined oversize, etc. and etc. some more...

mhanlen
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comfychair wrote:

The machining tolerances on the latest batch(es) of SRK clones are horrible. Parts aren’t concentric, meaning there will be a thick side and a paper thin side. And the threads don’t mate correctly, some of them you can ‘walk’ the head off the battery tube threads without rotating it like normal. The o-ring on the battery tube doesn’t touch the bore in the head because it’s machined oversize, etc. and etc. some more…

Is that from specific vendors or everyone?

comfychair
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I have no idea, but as often as the suppliers change things without notice even if you had a 100% accurate definitive list of the good ones and the bad ones at this moment in time, next week it could all change again and you'd be right back where you started, playing the lottery.

Consistently, the good ones are the gold UV-S5 from FT, or the ones from fancyflashlights/CNQG (they carry both the good ones and the clones, but which is which is clearly listed).

mhanlen
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Gotcha thanks. I guess it doesn’t matter to me- mine is good enough- I was mainly disappointed with the performance, which this driver should rectify.

JohnnyMac
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lefedor wrote:
Im signing for one for my SP03 with JohnnyMac as soon they avaliable.
Damned tootin'!  I plan on one for the SP03 and other for one of my 2 SRK. Big Smile
Sigurthr
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Definitely count me in for one!

I’m new to the forum but an acquaintance of mine from LPF (where I’m a veteran member) who spends a lot of time here sent me this way. I just ordered a SRK with the XM-L2 U2 emitters from CNQG and I’d like to drive those emitters as close to 3A as possible.

I REALLY like the ability to select which modes you want and the fact that you have a fast strobe available.

So, will the driver be 3.05A as in the OP or 2.8A as in a later post? If it is only going to be 2.8A, what all is involved in bumping up the current? I assume just paralleling on more smd regulators?

HV, RF, Laser, and Light Enthusiast

texaspyro
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Sigurthr wrote:
So, will the driver be 3.05A as in the OP or 2.8A as in a later post? If it is only going to be 2.8A, what all is involved in bumping up the current? I assume just paralleling on more smd regulators?

It will probably be 2.8A, the 380 mA regulators just are not available at cost effective prices. To boost the current to 3A you would need to add another regulator chip to each channel.

MRsDNF
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I’m sorry for the silly question but being the inept person I am when it comes to electronics l have to ask. This driver I think is designed for an electronic switch? Will it work with a normal on off tailcap switch?

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

texaspyro
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MRsDNF wrote:
I’m sorry for the silly question but being the inept person I am when it comes to electronics l have to ask. This driver I think is designed for an electronic switch? Will it work with a normal on off tailcap switch?

Nope…

DBSAR
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*gives you money to build me one!

That Canadian flashlight guy & Lantern Guru -Den / DBSARlight

MRsDNF
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Thanks TP. Now I have to learn about electronic switches. I reckon your driver would be a killer in a custom built 3 led light.

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

comfychair
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MRsDNF wrote:
Thanks TP. Now I have to learn about electronic switches. I reckon your driver would be a killer in a custom built 3 led light.

It's just a momentary pushbutton, non-latching. Like on a TV remote. The switch grounds a pin and the driver does whatever it's programmed to do until the switch is pressed again.

MRsDNF
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Thats simple enough. Thanks. I’m interested in the driver as well.

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

18sixfifty
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If it works in the SP03 I am definitely in for one. This work is way beyond me, so I would have no idea how it works or why. But it sounds good.

I’m a junky, I mod lights so I can sell lights so I can buy more light to mod so I can sell lights to buy more lights to mod.

SolarStorm
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Great driver!! I would get 1 or 2 when they are available!

texaspyro
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I got in some new rev PC boards (that did not have the solder mask screwups that OSHPARK’s board fabricators did on the first ones… they monkeyed with several people’s boards on that panel). I built one up with some 350 mA driver chips from Fastech. Seems to work well. You lose about 60 lumens per LED going from 2.8A to 3.05A per LED

I got a better measurement of the parasitic drain… it averages around 6 microamps… about 666 times less than the stock SRK driver (over 4 milliamps). Should drain 4 × 2600 mAh cells in around 200 years. The stock SRK will drain the cells in around 3 months.

Stittville Ed
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Sounds like you have been busy getting this figured out.

Thanks for all you work Smile

JonnyC
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texaspyro wrote:
I got a better measurement of the parasitic drain... it averages around 6 microamps

That is awesome!  Weren't 7135s supposed to leak some current when not switched on?  Is that not the case, or did you add some type of switch in between the battery and 7135s?

Sirius9
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Biggest disadvantage of this driver is that it didn’t show up about 3-4 months ago, in the golden age of SRK Big Smile
Now, with Supfire M6 and Solarstorm/FandyFire Warrior, SRK is fading away…

 

texaspyro
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JonnyC wrote:
Weren’t 7135s supposed to leak some current when not switched on?

It looks like only some versions of the chip do that, or perhaps only chips that have been abused in some way?

PilotPTK
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texaspyro wrote:
JonnyC wrote:
Weren't 7135s supposed to leak some current when not switched on?
It looks like only some versions of the chip do that, or perhaps only chips that have been abused in some way?

I've come to the same conclusion.  The chips I've gotten from FastTech and gently soldered have been fine.

PPtk

I am currently extremely busy with work. Please do not expect a response from me quickly. I will be dropping in as time permits, but the amount of time I can dedicate to responding to topics and PMs is very limited.

texaspyro
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PilotPTK wrote:
I’ve come to the same conclusion.  The chips I’ve gotten from FastTech and gently soldered have been fine.

I have noticed that the lead frames on ’7135 chips are particularly fragile. I’ve left behind lots of them when trying to unsolder them. Also broken them when bending the leads down.

The behavior of the chips is not specified under the conditions of having the Vdd pin pulled to ground. Something tells me there is no pulldown on the output FET gate. Without the Vdd circuit being powered on, the gate might be floating. I suspect it is only an issue with chips from some manufacturers.

tivo532
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JonnyC wrote:

texaspyro wrote:
I got a better measurement of the parasitic drain… it averages around 6 microamps

That is awesome!  Weren’t 7135s supposed to leak some current when not switched on?  Is that not the case, or did you add some type of switch in between the battery and 7135s?

That could be the Quiescent Current specs they have at 170-200uA?
That is around 2mA for 10x or 4mA for 20x AMC7135? Beer

texaspyro
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tivo532 wrote:
That could be the Quiescent Current specs they have at 170-200uA?

That spec is a boiler plate typical spec manufacturers use when they don’t want to measure the actual value. It takes a lot of megabuck tester time to measure those low currents.

For the AMC7135, it also applies when the Vdd pin is being driven high. The current the chips draw when being operated with Vdd low (assuming the chip is not leaking current through the output pin) is actually in the nanoamps. Going from 1 chip to 24 chips the board current increased less than 0.5 microamps. If the chip is leaking current, it may be a couple of milliamps. Designing a product that depends upon unspecified chip operation is a no-no, but sometimes you gotta do what you gotta do with the parts that are available, and maybe have to live with the consequences of what you actually get.

The same thing applies to things like AVR chip ADC inputs. They spec them at microamps, but I have never seen one draw more than a few nanoamps.

Sigurthr
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I just got my new XM-L2 U2 SRK from CNQG a few days ago and the parasitic drain is only 1.42mA. Tailcap current on HIGH is only 1.52A, and only 160mA on low. This is the brightest light I have ever had, with Low mode being just a tad dimmer than my previous “bright” LED light. The driver board appears to be glued down so I may order another one when it comes time to put one of your drivers in it; I like this one too much to risk ruining it. I was going to resistor mod this one but not going to chance snapping the board. I was expecting a much higher tail current, not sure what is up.

HV, RF, Laser, and Light Enthusiast

PilotPTK
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1.42mA parasitic current is actually pretty darn high.  That will essentially discharge a 2900mAh 18650 in 85 days.  In just a month, you'll be down to 60% of the runtime you'd expect.

I am currently extremely busy with work. Please do not expect a response from me quickly. I will be dropping in as time permits, but the amount of time I can dedicate to responding to topics and PMs is very limited.

ryansoh3
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1.52A seems to be really low, I was getting 5A on high with fully charged cells.

BLF ≠ B-grade Flashlight Forum

 

Sigurthr
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I grabbed my 1ohm 100W precision resistor and scoped the tail current and found my earlier readings of 1.5A and 150mA to be wrong; I knew the 150mA was a RMS averaged PWM, but expected the 1.5A to be accurate. There was so much play in conductivity of the positive connection of the contact board where the cell buttons rub that it was hard to get an accurate reading. Without attempting to solder to the contact board to make connection for a test I’m not sure if I can get an accurate reading. Some spots I could only get 500mA, others up to 1.2A. The only difference from last time was I opened and closed the host twice.

I’m tempted to put a layer of solder on the board to prevent the gold plating from being completely worn away as it is already pretty scuffed and I’ve only opened the thing about four times now.

As for the parasitic drain problem; I lock out the light by unscrewing the battery bay 1/4 turn. Though with the high wear on the contact board this does worry me.

HV, RF, Laser, and Light Enthusiast

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