12A 7135 Based SRK Replacement Driver

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Mattaus
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12A 7135 Based SRK Replacement Driver

Hi all,

Bit out of the blue but on the prodding of a fellow BLF member I have designed the exact opposite of the Tiny10:

The board follows the same principles as the Tiny10 - it's just a larger NANJG/QLite. Swap over the critical components and add as many AMC chips as you see fit (up to 32). All components are single sided so if you use the skillet/oven method of re-flow soldering this will be a piece of cake (though there is solder mask on the reverse side). It is intended to be used as an SRK replacement driver.

The 3 'stars' are available as per stock drivers and are numbered on the silkscreen 2, 3 and 4. If you use the electronic switch holes these connect to ground (SW-) and pin2/star4 (SW+).

I have not tested the board yet. I have ordered some but given my location it'll take a number of weeks to reach me. There is no reason why they won't work of course Wink

The board is available from OSHPark and costs $16.55 for 3: http://oshpark.com/shared_projects/Cm0cEnQy

Cheers,

- Matt

leaftye
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Lots of room there for stacking.  

This is looks like a very nice straight forward solution.  It's not as fancy as the SRK drivers that texaspyro and drjones are working on, but it gets the job done right now.

The low mode should be lower.

Mattaus
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leaftye wrote:
It's not as fancy as the SRK drivers that texaspyro and drjones are working on, but it gets the job done right now.

Haha yeah it only took a couple of hours to whip up. It's not meant to be complicated. Just simple to use without the need for special micro-controllers. Literally just a bigger Qlite! Probably more powerful than stock SKR drivers as well.

- Matt

WarHawk-AVG
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Awesome!

Payday will have a new project to go after

You sir are the man!

leaftye
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I think it's a good thing.  The nang105 driver has a few firmware options that make it a very good driver.  Others may have better drivers later, but you just released a very good option that we don't have to wait for.  I'll give it a shot.  I already have a SRK that's been waiting too long for a decent driver upgrade.

The low mode should be lower.

WarHawk-AVG
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Yeah, generic enough that it uses the firmware and components readily available...and has MUCH MUCH more power than stock. (a supercharged 105C Big Smile )

Is there a solder mask template for this yet?

 

Mattaus
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WarHawk-AVG wrote:

Is there a solder mask template for this yet?

I ahve never tried this but I'd be happy to give files to anyone who knows what to do with them....

rollinstone157
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Glad to see that you’re giving back to the community like this! Maybe I’ll get some made Smile

scottyhazzard
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It looks like its time to get me an SRK. Nicely done.

"Those who hammer their guns into plows will plow for those who do not."

WarHawk-AVG
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10 count 380mA 7135's

http://www.fasttech.com/products/1007/10001705/1197600

100 count 350mA 7135's

http://www.fasttech.com/products/1007/10001705/1124300

 

Sacrificial 105C for the ATTiny13A and hardware

http://www.fasttech.com/products/1612/10001683/1122301

And this

http://www.fasttech.com/products/1612/10001683/1186300

I like these becasue it starts low up to high, in case someone who doesn't know grabs it and turns it on wide open and ends up overheating it with it's new found power!

 

ATTiny13A chips (lot of 10 for $5)

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/FREE-SHIPPING-10PCS-LOT-ATMEL-ATTINY13-AT...

Then load up custom firmware

Tom E
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Wow! This is simple stuff but ingenious none the less - thanx Matt!

This (obviously?) requires the LED's be in parallel, and having an e-switch driver. The MiniMo driver could be used, since Doc Jones' more advanced drivers are only available on his hardware. Is this the project he was prodded to release source code for an e-switch driver?

WarHawk-AVG
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Tom E wrote:

Wow! This is simple stuff but ingenious none the less - thanx Matt!

This (obviously?) requires the LED's be in parallel, and having an e-switch driver. The MiniMo driver could be used, since Doc Jones' more advanced drivers are only available on his hardware. Is this the project he was prodded to release source code for an e-switch driver?

Ah crud. you are right, going to need a momentary firmware with a off function

djozz
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This is a really nice concept. I am all for simple UI's, so this would be my favorite SRK-driver (if I had a SRK, that is Sad )

So, now that you are in the routine Wink , how about a 14/15mm one sided version with room for 3 or 4 chips. It would fit the sk68 and quite a few other small flashlights.

WarHawk-AVG
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djozz wrote:

This is a really nice concept. I am all for simple UI's, so this would be my favorite SRK-driver (if I had a SRK, that is Sad )

So, now that you are in the routine Wink , how about a 14/15mm one sided version with room for 3 or 4 chips. It would fit the sk68 and quite a few other small flashlights.

SK68 is 15mm, I measured...I think he has a few other projects in the works...but hopefully that can be on his list Wink
ImA4Wheelr
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Yeah.  Awesome.  Thank you Mattaus!  I'm going to risk it and order 3 of this untested board.  You rock man!

comfychair
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I'm pretty sure there will soon be a different version using a single direct-drive FET, in case there are others who are a bit tired of the 7135s.

(this one works great, Vishay SUD70N02-03P) Party

Rufusbduck
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Nice job Matt. I think Texaspyro mentioned that if you have .brd files Oshpark will make a matching Kapton stencil. I don’t know what those are or how one makes tape out of a file but there it is.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

Mattaus
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To be honest all these 7135/ATtiny drivers are electrically identical. Making a 15mm driver would take no time at all. I'll see what I can whip up tonight after footy training.

As for the firmware - this driver can be used as a normal NANJG driver (no e-switch) provided you have the right firmware. If you want to use an e-switch you will probably need DrJones MiniMo firmware. If you use that firmware you CANNOT solder the bridged marked as number 4.

I just realised I forgot to check with DrJones if he was working on an SRK driver. I know he was working on a larger 4 LED driver that allowed control over each emitter (or cycle through them). If this driver is stepping on his toes (because it sort of relies on his firmware which I did NOT think about) I will pull it from OSHPark.

- Matt

Sirius9
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I would recommend mobydrv adapted for flashlights (Instant off) from DrJones.

 

comfychair
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There are other firmwares out there too (or soon to be - I believe Werner said he was planning to release source code once he has it ready). DrJ also sells bare pre-flashed tiny13s, I think, for his more complex versions.

leaftye
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Mattaus wrote:
I just realised I forgot to check with DrJones if he was working on an SRK driver. I know he was working on a larger 4 LED driver that allowed control over each emitter (or cycle through them). If this driver is stepping on his toes (because it sort of relies on his firmware which I did NOT think about) I will pull it from OSHPark.

- Matt

He put his 7135's too close to the edge, will use ATtiny84 and have a few other high end features.  The cheapies will complain his price is too high, but they probably won't buy your driver either.  I'd probably build a light with all three.  It may be more expensive than I'm willing to try, but I wonder how well your driver with the zener mod using 18350's in 2S4P driving a trio of MT-G2's would work.  

The low mode should be lower.

texaspyro
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Be VERY careful putting holes/leads in that center area of the board. The cells in an SRK are held very loosely and their position can be all over the place. With flat/low top cells it is easy for them to touch things in that center area… kerblewie! Same goes for the outer ring… it needs to be fairly narrow to make sure a cell cannot touch it. Some cells have awfully wide positive contacts…

Also, be very careful depending upon the board solder mask to keep the tab under the AMC7135 chips from shorting to etches underneath the chip. Solder mask should NEVER be used to provide insulation in critical places. Plus, being able to get solder to that tab under the chip provides a much better thermal path.

Finally, I would not recommend paralleling all the AMC chips and the LEDs. At these currents imbalances in the LEDs can lead to run-away current hogging and emitter toastification. My driver breaks up the AMC chips into three groups, one for each LED, 3 amps max to each LED. Yes, you could parallel the banks (like Old Lumens did for hist MTG mod), but I would not recommend it fot things like XML’s.

These issues led to the funky layout of my driver board with 24 AMC chips in three banks.

Mattaus
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Thanks texaspyro. I made specific mention of the board being untested for these reasons. The BATT+ contact ring is larger than on the stock SRK driver board so battery wobble should be less of an issue. Nontheless the through hole vias were simply to make soldering wires easier and to reduce the risk of ripping solder pads off. I would obviously encourage people to keep the wires as low as possible.

Points noted on the routing under AMCs etc. I know this is frowned upon, but the point of this board was more to do with big power than anything else. I have identified a way I could potentially improve the design a little bit, but I will wait a while to see if the demand really requires it.

Live and learn Smile

DB Custom
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The Qlite has routing under the chips, in the dozens (100?) that I’ve used, it’s never been an issue and so far I’ve run em up to 4 high and over 6A. Lucky maybe, don’t know.

18sixfifty
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Great stuff. I’ll keep on eye on this and see how it all pans out. I already have some SRK drivers on the way so I don’t need them just yet.

Thanks

I’m a junky, I mod lights so I can sell lights so I can buy more light to mod so I can sell lights to buy more lights to mod.

Rufusbduck
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Every cheap 7135 board I’ve seen has the output trace crossing under the chips. It doesn’t mean it’s good design but does seem to work. Breaking up the output into groups could be done just by cutting the output trace in a few places and soldering an led- wire to one of the chips in each isolated group. For a high voltage Zener mod it would be better maybe to have the entire bottom of the chip available for ground trace soldering but maybe not as important for normal 4.2V usage. The natives have been getting restless waiting for an SRK board and this is a sort of stop gap measure. I like that Mattaus is willing to put things out there knowing that his first effort can be improved on and that Texaspyro takes the time to make suggestions. We all learn from them and gain by their efforts.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

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Sorry RBD. I failed on most of that last line. :_(

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

Rufusbduck
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Okay, so maybe “all learn” is a bit much but we still get new designs we can use whether we understand them or not.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

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Comfychair wrote:

I'm pretty sure there will soon be a different version using a single direct-drive FET,in case there are others who are a bit tired of the 7135s.

(this one works great, Vishay SUD70N02-03P) Party

 
Very much looking forward to that.  Ordered some and I'm off to your thread to figure out how to wire them into this board.
 
On TexasPyro's point above about contact pads for cells and the battery tube.  If there is a problem with this design, I imagine one could reflow some copper sheet cut to the appropriate size over the positive contact ring.
Mattaus
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I guess part of the accidental 'charm' of this (or any 7135 based driver) is the relative ease of which the boards can be 'hacked' up. Seriously - I've seen some of the boards people have created, even some I've made, and they look like they've been put through a meat grinder. And yet they still function. Boards with chips stacked 4 or 5 high (sometimes more). Traces ripped up with jumper wires running left and right. Extra components tacked on. AMC chips being driven above and beyond their factory rating. Master/slave setups. The list goes on.

All this board will really ever be is a NANJG driver sized to natively fit a very popular light. If you're concerned about a large group of AMC chips running LEDs parallel then just go to town on the board. Leave a few chips off and stack them else where if you need room. Swap out the MCU for another. Zener mod it. Hell; you could just use it as a simple contact board for an all together completely different driver for all it matters lol.

Use it how you see fit and do what people around here do best - make up for its shortcomings by ghetto engineering the crap out of it.

- Matt

texaspyro
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ImA4Wheelr wrote:
On TexasPyro’s point above about contact pads for cells and the battery tube.  If there is a problem with this design, I imagine one could reflow some copper sheet cut to the appropriate size over the positive contact ring.

The problem is not with the contact ring, it is with those pads/holes for wires at the center of the board. The positive contact for the cells can touch them… even if there are no wires protruding. The center part of the driver board really needs to be empty. If I remember correctly, anything within around 0.2” of the board’s center is a risk for shorting with some cells.

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