This is a quick review of the L3 Illumination L10C-219 from SBFlashlights.
(image copied from SBFlashlights)
The L10C is an improved version of the L10. First, let’s go over its specs from the manufacturer:
- Nichia NVSL219AT-H1 4500K, 92 CRI, B10 Bin
- Four modes of output: firefly(0.09lumens 147hours) -> Low (3 lumens, 30hrs ) -> Medium (30 lumens) —> High (120 lumens, 1.5hrs) -> (Tested with Ni-mh battery with actual capacity 2500mAh)
- Note: 3 mode model removes Firefly mode of .09 lumens. Low, Medium, High only
- Stable current regulated circuit, stable brightness
- Uses one 1.5V AA battery (ni-mh, alkaline ). 14500 batteries are not recommeded, because they heat up quickly.
- 20-gram weight (excluding batteries)
- Made of durable aircraft-grade aluminum
- Premium Type III hard-anodized anti-abrasive finish
- Waterproof to IPX-8 Standard
- Toughened double ultra-clear glass lens
- Candle mode (Capable of standing up securely on a flat surface to serve as a candle)
- Size: 16.7x96mm
- Mode switch: Forward click switch to scroll from low to high.
- No mode memory, always starts on Firefly mode
- Screw on secure deep pocket clip
- Release date: 2014-06-20
Some of this information isn’t updated yet. For example, it has a Nichia 219B, not a 219A. I’m not sure the weight is correct either, but I don’t have a way to measure it. And the button is a reverse clicky, not a forward clicky.
Differences from the L10
The biggest difference is the “C”. This could mean “clip” or “clicky”, but both are true. The L10C is, basically, the L10 with a clip and rear clicky button. But those aren’t the only changes:
- Upgraded to 219B emitter (was 219A). Tint is slightly colder and output should be slightly higher at the same power levels.
- The L10C is significantly longer, 96mm instead of 79mm.
- The L10C doesn’t work as a twisty, it’s click-only.
- The L10C has a spring inside so it won’t crush batteries like the L10 did.
- The L10C pill has a much thinner foam layer, and some small changes in the shape of the brass around the foam.
- The L10C tailstands, but is not as stable as the original L10. This is because of the cut-outs to allow easier access to the switch.
- The L10C’s head can tighten all the way without turning the light on. No more gap between head and body.
- And, of course, the L10C has a screw-on clip and a reverse clicky button.
Comparison to other similar lights
The L10C is relatively long for lights in its class, but it remains pretty narrow. In this line-up we have the CNQG Brass Beauty (1x18650), L10C, Thrunite T10T, EagleTac D25A Ti, Zebralight SC52, and the original L3 Illumination L10.
And a somewhat closer shot with only its nearest siblings — L10C (grey), L10C (black), T10T, D25A, and L10:
Note: The L10C’s clip can be adjusted a few degrees to either side; it’s only crooked here because I forgot to straighten it first.
… and once more with just the L10 and L10C, to better show the difference in length.
Measurements
I measured the light output of my L10 and L10C on a fresh Eneloop, and got the following:
L10-219A:
- Moon (spec = 0.09 lm): 0.07 lm
- Low (spec = 3 lm): 3.93 lm
- Med (spec = 30 lm): 29.05 lm
- High (spec = 120 lm): 113.1 lm
L10C-219B:
- Moon (spec = 0.09 lm): 0.09 lm
- Low (spec = 3 lm): 4.22 lm
- Med (spec = 30 lm): 29.97 lm
- High (spec = 120 lm): 120.3 lm
It appears that the 219B is a few percent (3% to 7%) brighter than the 219A, but this is based on a sample size of one for each item so it could be individual variation.
On a 14500 cell, I got much brighter results. However, most of the levels dropped off pretty quickly, so either the cell was sagging under the load or the emitter was overheating… these levels aren’t sustainable:
L10C-219B (14500 cell):
- Moon (spec = 0.09 lm): 0.18 lm
- Low (spec = 3 lm): 71.4 lm
- Med (spec = 30 lm): 233.8 lm
- High (spec = 120 lm): 372.4 lm
I don’t recommend using this light with a 14500 cell. Moon mode is still pretty decent, and low is usable (though a bit high), but medium and high will likely overheat.
Inside the L10C
The L10C’s pill has some minor changes compared to the L10. Mostly, its foam pad is much thinner, and it has more raised edges around the pad.
Inside the body, it has a spring at the tail end:
The tail end can unscrew to reveal the components of the switch:
The rubber switch cover has a plastic ring over it. So, the switch itself should be waterproof at shallow depths due to the rubber boot pressing down around it, but anything above the boot could easily get wet. Nothing functional is in the wet zone, but it might take a while to dry off the tail end after getting wet. (please excuse the gunk on the switch, I had it floating around in my purse for a while before I took it apart for pictures, and the rubber picks up dust easily)
The switch can actually be used without the boot over it, though this will also make it no longer waterproof:
Back to the front end, here’s the L10-219’s emitter, a Nichia 219A:
The L10C upgraded to the Nichia 219B, which is more efficient and achieves a slightly colder tint at the same high CRI:
The Nichia 219B is somewhat easier to see in my other L10C:
Beam shots
The beam looks almost identical to the original L10-219. The only visible difference is a slightly colder tint, closer to 5000K. Both are pleasantly floody, and are one of the only EDC lights I don’t feel I need to add diffuser film to. Most lights go for a wider, throwier reflector… which I then end up diffusing.
(pics coming later)
Overall impressions
The L3 L10-219 is (IMO) one of the nicest EDC lights on the market. It’s a great size and shape, has nearly perfect output levels and beam pattern, has a great UI, a very nice neutral white tint, the best CRI on the market, and is relatively inexpensive compared to other lights in its class. It really was only missing one thing, a screw-on clip. The L3 L10C-219 adds that clip.
I could do without the clicky button. I preferred it as a twisty, with completely silent operation which worked in both overhand grip and handshake grip with one hand. And I’m a little disappointed by the length of the L10C, since it’s longer than the DQG 18650 and almost as long as the 1x18650 CNQG brass light. But it’s still quite narrow, which makes it feel a lot better in my hand than a 1x18650 light.
I’d like it better if it came in the original L10’s size as a twisty instead of a clicky. I might try drilling out holes in an older L10’s tail so I can attach the clip, and swap the new head too since it has a nicer emitter. The L10C head works on a L10 body (but the L10 head doesn’t work on a L10C body).
I’m very happy to see a L10 model with the new Nichia 219B. The 219A was nice, but I really like the slightly colder tint of the 219B.
The reverse clicky takes a fair amount of pressure to click on or off, but it only takes a slight tap to change modes while it’s on. It’s a bit on the easy side to change modes by accident. However, it’s also easy to scroll back around to the desired mode.
I’ll need a few nights to really test it out, but overall the L10C-219 seems like a nice upgrade to what was already one of the best EDC lights in the world.
Update
I just realized why it’s a little wobbly while tail-standing. It’s not the cut-outs for button access… the clip is attached just a bit too far back:
I hope to get beam shots soon, comparing all six of my Nichia 219 lights and some others with a similar color temperature. This 4500K to 5000K tint area is really quite a sweet spot. Some lights may be difficult to compare directly though, since they don’t have matching lumen levels or beam patterns.