Supbeam K50 V2 Mod Thread

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Old-Lumens
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comfychair wrote:

Stock carrier is 4S, or 16.8-12v. Driver is a buck driver, but if other reports are correct some component on the board (the buck controller) has an output voltage limit, and cannot adjust voltage up high enough to run a MTG2. It would take an extraordinary amount of luck to find a pin-compatible controller, like something in the same series from the same manufacturer, that had a higher output voltage limit. Otherwise, I don't know of any way to keep the magnetic control part.

Sorry didn't know it was a 4 cell carrier. Series, didn't know that either, didn't look eitherEmbarassed. OK, so I will trash the stock driver, magnetic ring and carrier. It will be an MT-G2 light when I get done, one way or the other, (or it will be a heapInnocent), with no recharging in the light and a momentary switch I guess, with the tail switch being a cut off... Maybe

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ChibiM
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Are you sure OL, that sounds like a whole waste?

I think those  parts made that light so expensive and unique.

Why not get a K40M, which was made for the MT-G2... I know it has a smaller head, but gosh, taking all that stuff  out seems to be a waste.. or at least people would be able to get some original parts, when their mod goes wrong.

comfychair
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Or see if there's a way to get a K40M driver. Since the K40 & K50 (and whatever other lights) use the same basic driver PCB, the M driver should fit the non-M lights too.

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work this k 50 not with 8x CR123A ? with one mt-g2? = 6V for old-lumens ?

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The driver already has a 16.8 volt input, it's the output side that isn't capable of putting out the voltage needed to run the MTG2. More input voltage isn't going to change that.

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Seems a shame to do that to a light like this, but of course it’s yours and you can do what you wish.

I just put an MT-G2 in a Courui that has 3 bays in parallel. I used 6 18350’s and it ran over 14A from the BLF17DD Z piggybacked on top of the original driver….stripped to be only a contact board. I had to tone the UI down to 197 from 255 to get 6.23A for 3030 lumens OTF, 4481 lumens was just too much for this light.

So I would think you can achieve the 9A you’re looking for, all in how you go about it I guess.

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It occurred to me that RaceR86's cell carrier problem sounds like it's most likely a manufacturing defect.  Wouldn't at least one of those Vinh modded lights exhibited this behavior by now?  I guess it's possible all the recipients only use topped off cells or shelf queen the lights, but it seems unlikely.

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ImA4Wheelr wrote:

It occurred to me that RaceR86's cell carrier problem sounds like it's most likely a manufacturing defect.  Wouldn't at least one of those Vinh modded lights exhibited this behavior by now?  I guess it's possible all the recipients only use topped off cells or shelf queen the lights, but it seems unlikely.

Considering that FmC`s carrier showed a sign of becoming hot. Could also mean that increasing the amps from a mod leads to the issue I was seeing.

Doing a runtime test may not be enough to "trigger the issue" due to stepdown. 

I checked with one owner who bought two K50vn today. No signs that the battery carrier was opened up and modified. Sealed just like stock. He had not run the batteries low. I know at least one guy have that ran his light low. But how many have started the light on high with low voltage cells?

I would assume the driver mod would not damage the carrier due to all the K50vn out there. But that assumption did not work for me. Most of them are probably living a quite peaceful life being babied. When that is said, I cant say for sure that any components in my carrier are broken. But one of those components sure did not look well. And the heat has got to come from some place.... Cant be healthy for a battery carrier to become that hot..

Hopefully there are some US based owners of K50vn that can do some proper independent testing..  J)

(And hopefully they have some sort of warranty)

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I didn't get a chance to charge up or find 4 matched low voltage cells to check.  I will try tomorrow.

It looks like the carrier is only supposed to go in one way.   It appears that the thicker side would go towards the tail as the tail has 3 contact surfaces and the thicker side of the cell holder does too.  It sure would be easy to accidentally put this carrier in backwards.  Not sure what that would do, but be careful folks.  Hopefully, they designed the light so that such an incident will cause no damage.

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I think this driver can mod to use third party driver too such as NANJG with magnetic ring still functioning

I found two control pins. one goes to Buck FET controller and other to tiny FET that connected with sense resistors and LED -V

Can someone help me to find purpose of these two pins if I tell the test method ? because I don’t have a K50

I suspect second FET is used to Dimming. If its true, dimming modes should off once that FET bypassed.

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Hmm I just got my K50 from the GB and I can’t seem to get the bezel off?

Edit: Never mind, it just took a lot of force.

Edit 2: Make sure you don’t injure yourselves while opening the bezel, I did use gloves but some of my skin peeled off and stressed out my thumb. Shocked

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Never heard of anyone injuring themselves while removing a flashlight bezel. Must be seriously tight!

ToyKeeper found that a carpeted floor can be a big help. Push the light bezel first into the carpet and twist.

I have a section of 1/2” thick floor cushion, the stuff they put at a work station to stand on. Kind of a foamy rubber. I use that to press the light into and grip the bezel, works quite well.

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I used the back of a mouse pad for traction, but all I could see it doing was ruin the mousepad. I don’t have any carpets around here, but maybe I can find an ESD rubber mat.
I seriously thought the bezel was glued, but looking at the reports here it was just tight, very tight.

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=the=

 

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Had to use Google translate to figure out what that was, but I’ll have access to Ikea in two weeks. Smile

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I used a dab of hot glue to fill the void between the rubber boot and the clicky switch. I didn’t like the mushy feeling, so now the switch has a very solid firm feel.

RaceR86’s photo:

Has anyone been able to access the mode selector switch? I would like to disassemble it and add some lube and maybe reduce the clickiness of it. I prefer the tougher ring with subtler indents like in the K40.

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Ryan - you mean the mag ring? I tried with strap wrench's - No Go. She is sure glued tight shut. So much for no glue --  I've gotten that threaded joint open on TN31's and it takes quite an effort, usually. They use a pretty good LockTite.

I would like to open for two reasons:

  1. lube it up with Nyogel as I've done before - definite improvement
  2. easier to work on the MCPCB, etc.
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Tom E wrote:

Ryan – you mean the mag ring? I tried with strap wrench’s – No Go. She is sure glued tight shut. So much for no glue —  I’ve gotten that threaded joint open on TN31’s and it takes quite an effort, usually. They use a pretty good LockTite.

I would like to open for two reasons:

  1. lube it up with Nyogel as I’ve done before – definite improvement
  2. easier to work on the MCPCB, etc.

Yup, the mode selector ring. I remember noticing two bumps which looked like the ends of two screws looking inside the driver compartment.

I’m not sure if the screws are from the MCPCB, as the screws that hold it down are fairly short. I wonder if this indicates the threads are fastened by the two screws instead of loctite.

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Yes - those screw ends are definitely from the MCPCB. It's all really the same design going on between the K40, TN31's, etc.

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Ah I see. So it’s just loctite holding the threads together with the MCPCB is removed?

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Old-Lumens
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I wish mine would come, so I could tear it completely down and take photos of everything...   Sooner or later, maybe...Cry

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I’m going to wait until all the smoke clears before I touch mine.

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ryansoh3 wrote:
Ah I see. So it's just loctite holding the threads together with the MCPCB is removed?

The threaded connection is to remove the head from the body - the MCPCB is totally separate. Like this - should be the same as this TN31 I worked on:

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maybe 2 weeks waiting OL Big Smile

mine too on china this time

is this light interesting with one XPG2? for modding.

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Thanks for the pics Tom, I also had a TN31 that opened right there because there was no glue. It was indeed quite easy to mod.

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I’ve done some basic current and voltage measurements of the stock driver.

Level 1:

Level 2:

Level 3:

Level 4:

Level 5:

Level 6: It peaked at 5.2A but drops to 5.0A in 5 seconds and keeps going down.

Open circuit voltage, same at all modes except stand-by and strobe (Not enough to drive an MT-G2):

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^ Excellent info and pics.  Thank you ryansoh3 Smile

EDIT: We gotta figure out if there are any way to adjust the voltage and also why the current drops like that.  Was you emitter in the test well heat sinked?

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ImA4Wheelr wrote:

^ Excellent info and pics.  Thank you ryansoh3 Smile

EDIT: We gotta figure out if there are any resistors controlling voltage and also why the current drops like that.  Was you emitter in the test well heat sinked?

Glad to help. Smile

Figuring out how to control the max output voltage would be great for MT-G2 LED’s. I’ve contacted Supbeam many times about selling TN30 (3x XM-L2) boards, but they wouldn’t budge. Maybe a 50 unit GB would work?

The current drop is probably due to the driver itself overheating and individual components not being able to handle the heat. My guess is that as the sense resistors heat up, their resistance increases and the output current decreases, which is probably why Supbeam put a blob of thermal glue between the driver cap and the resistors.

I was using 1N4007 diodes I use for general purpose testing. I had three of them in series, which emulates the forward voltage of the XM-L2 LED.

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I haven't seen a single picture of the TN30 driver.  You seem to be the only person that has worked on them.  If you have one out of a light, it would be great to see a front and back picture of it.

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ImA4Wheelr wrote:

I haven’t seen a single picture of the TN30 driver.  You seem to be the only person that has worked on them.  If you have one out of a light, it would be great to see a front and back picture of it.

Sure, I’ll try to get some shots tomorrow.

Meanwhile, here’s a shot of the front from this thread: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/19313#comment-343536

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