Uniquefire UF-1405 - A worthy zoomy?

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luminarium iaculator
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bibihang wrote:
low voltage warning/cut-off occurring at 2.8V is just too low IMO, it is not good to have your 18650 discharged until that low of a voltage as it can damage your battery.

Well maybe no problem if Panasonic 18650 battery are used (discharge at 2,5V) Smile ?

cajampa
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And i saw a HKJ test yesterday of the Keepower IMR18650 2500mAh (the same as the LG ICR18650HE2) thats rated for discharging down to 2.0v Shocked

luminarium iaculator
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Interesting... Who will invent some kind of parallel tubes fur upcoming single cell UF version so we can use 2x cell in parallel? In that case I would also rise number of 7135 chips.

Or maybe some of you guys knows where such aluminum 2x parallel 18650 boxes can be bought?

There are lot of plastic ones on net but I did not managed to find aluminum.

cajampa
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Maybe you can use a powerbank? There are plenty to chose from, and many of them are aluminum and some of them can be opened easily.

luminarium iaculator
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Yes power bank could be used...

I have been thinking recently about 2x18650 tube side by side(parallel) and below that picatinny rail attachment.

I just cant think of how to make functional version of that for quick and safe swap of batteries.

 

But now I am thinking on your idea in small configuration. Lets say we have 3x phone batteries in parallel(6000 mah) in some home made small aluminum case on which we can mount UF head and just connect + - wires of battery pack on driver.

It would be ok for simple on/off action.

I am not sure how phone cells would take 4A or more discharge? Maybe that is way to much for them...

cajampa
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If you are talking about running 3x lithium polymer cells in parallel, that could possible work at 4A.

But i haven’t tried anything like that myself, but i know some of th RC guys are using lithium polymer & they often need rather high C values, so my best tips is to do some searches on lithium polymer and various RC uses and you should find some more info or discussion on it.

bibihang
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I didn’t realize that some batteries can be discharged until that low nowadays. Interesting, but I still won’t try that anyway just for the peace of mind. Smile

luminarium iaculator
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cajampa wrote:
If you are talking about running 3x lithium polymer cells in parallel, that could possible work at 4A. But i haven't tried anything like that myself, but i know some of th RC guys are using lithium polymer & they often need rather high C values, so my best tips is to do some searches on lithium polymer and various RC uses and you should find some more info or discussion on it.

No I am talking about real phone cells. Look what I got in one battery package: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/37964

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I know & i am also talking about phone style flat cells, there are RC guys who are using the flat phone style battery’s too.

The link goes to The BLF Deal Alert Thread, i can’t find what you are referring to.

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I have 3 questions: 1. If, and I must emphasize the “IF”, if I managed to make a battery holder for 2 18650 cells in a parallel, how much throw could I get from a dedomed XP-G2 driven at the highest current ? Would it be worth the effort? Would it be a better solution than using a 1504 on 1×26650?

2. I have a trustfire tr-j19 with dedomed xm-l2 u3 1a leds I think? driven at 5 amps. What would be the THROW of a modded 1405 compared to my modded tr-j19?

3. I want a budget friendly throw monster. Is this one heck of a thrower I need or should I try something else?
bibihang
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johny723 wrote:
I have 3 questions: 1. If, and I must emphasize the “IF”, if I managed to make a battery holder for 2 18650 cells in a parallel, how much throw could I get from a dedomed XP-G2 driven at the highest current ? Would it be worth the effort? Would it be a better solution than using a 1504 on 1×26650?

2. I have a trustfire tr-j19 with dedomed xm-l2 u3 1a leds I think? driven at 5 amps. What would be the THROW of a modded 1405 compared to my modded tr-j19?

3. I want a budget friendly throw monster. Is this one heck of a thrower I need or should I try something else?
1. The output of the XP-G2 is determined by the current going into it (and some other things, but let’s ignore them first). So if I assume that the LED current is always 4A, in this case whether you use 2×18650 in parallel or a single 26650 it won’t change the output at all but it is just a matter of runtime (total battery capacity you have). If crappy battery is used which cannot sustain itself at high current then it is different story.

2. Depends of what kind of configuration you have with your 1405. The modded 1405 can out throw your modded J19 easily if everything of your 1405 is geared towards maximum throw. FYI my modded 1405 is putting out 360kcd, and some even have more than 400kcd. I suspect that the lens quality might be one of the variations here.

3. It really is the longest thrower for the money currently, given that you know how to mod.

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Hello!
2 pieces protected keeppower 26650(Size:(L)71.10mm*(D)26.40mm) fit well in the 1405? Smile

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The Trustfire tr-j19 is a triple, each led has a small reflector. It is a flooder that produces a ton of light, way more than your UF-1405 will have.

But if you talk throw, I estimate your Trustfire throws well under 100kcd, the UF-1405 with a dedomed XP-G2 at 5A will be 400 kcd.

EDIT: I looked things up and apparently I underestimated this Trustfire, I just now see that Johnnymac did a mod on the Trustfire tr-j19 that resulted in 200kcd, so I stand corrected for my estimation of under 100kcd: http://theflashlightforum.com/index.php?topic=304.0

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maybe a pointless question, but is there really no way to modify the pill or some other parts of the flashlight to accept 22mm drivers? I mean this part which holds the driver. Is it possible to cut off the protruding part that holds the 17mm driver and replace it for some adapter ( like a metal tube with inner diameter of 22mm cut to the correct height )and glue it there with a JB weld or some permanent threadlock glue? I somehow can not stop thinking about it Big Smile If there is a way to make it work with a reliable 5a driver on 2s, it will be the first thing I will buy when the dollar/euro exchange rate gets better.

Kloepper Knife Works
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Completely possible. I use 3/4” copper pipe and shim it with more copper to fit the aluminum driver area on the pill. Press fit and go.

johny723
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Sounds like a plan! Could you take a photo or two of this particular flashlight pill modified to accept 22 mm drivers?

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I can, here are a couple cruddy cell phone pictures. One is the business end of the mod, the other is the light it’s in. The aluminum ring on the bezel is there to protect the aspheric lens I put in with a shorter focal length.

I used Arctic Silver adhesive to hold everything permanently, but the copper shims dug in slightly as everything was pressed together, so electrical conductivity should be good long-term. Soldering the driver is the hard part, even pre-tinning the edge of the copper tube doesn’t quite make it easy. The heat gets pulled out so fast I end up having to go over it with my butane torch to make sure I don’t have any cold solder joints.

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Now it needs a wavien collar or something else based on light recycling and you can start selling them!

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Kloepper Knife Works wrote:
I can, here are a couple cruddy cell phone pictures. One is the business end of the mod, the other is the light it's in. The aluminum ring on the bezel is there to protect the aspheric lens I put in with a shorter focal length. I used Arctic Silver adhesive to hold everything permanently, but the copper shims dug in slightly as everything was pressed together, so electrical conductivity should be good long-term. Soldering the driver is the hard part, even pre-tinning the edge of the copper tube doesn't quite make it easy. The heat gets pulled out so fast I end up having to go over it with my butane torch to make sure I don't have any cold solder joints.

May I suggest something? Nice idea btw...About pre-tinning copper tube; You can use file or rasp and use it on part of copper tube you want to tin. That way you'll clean tube from mess and solder will attach better.

So scratch with file, don't use solder paste just solder with rosin core and very wide solder iron tip.  When you have enough solder on tip(put plenty here) just press and hold it on filed part... When tube will be very hot(after 30 sec approx) solder will attach nice and easy to tube and then you can spread rest of solder.

And do that on vise which is well isolated with some kind of rubber because if  copper would be clamped into metal vise it would be far harder to solder something on it because metal vise would start acting as a huge heatsink drawing all heat off copper tube that is more than necessary for sticky solder.

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luminarium iaculator wrote:

Kloepper Knife Works wrote:
I can, here are a couple cruddy cell phone pictures. One is the business end of the mod, the other is the light it’s in. The aluminum ring on the bezel is there to protect the aspheric lens I put in with a shorter focal length. I used Arctic Silver adhesive to hold everything permanently, but the copper shims dug in slightly as everything was pressed together, so electrical conductivity should be good long-term. Soldering the driver is the hard part, even pre-tinning the edge of the copper tube doesn’t quite make it easy. The heat gets pulled out so fast I end up having to go over it with my butane torch to make sure I don’t have any cold solder joints.

May I suggest something? Nice idea btw…About pre-tinning copper tube; You can use file or rasp and use it on part of copper tube you want to tin. That way you’ll clean tube from mess and solder will attach better.

So scratch with file, don’t use solder paste just solder with rosin core and very wide solder iron tip.  When you have enough solder on tip(put plenty here) just press and hold it on filed part… When tube will be very hot(after 30 sec approx) solder will attach nice and easy to tube and then you can spread rest of solder.

And do that on vise which is well isolated with some kind of rubber because if  copper would be clamped into metal vise it would be far harder to solder something on it because metal vise would start acting as a huge heatsink drawing all heat off copper tube that is more than necessary for sticky solder.

I don’t have any problems pre-tinning. I do that with a butane torch while it is still just the tube. However you just gave me a great idea for pre-tinning when I don’t have any clearance, the gouges would fill with solder, then I could turn it back down to the original OD and still have exposed solder.

The darn thing moves so much heat that it’s difficult getting the solder to stick to it when I go to solder the driver in place (with my Hakko 936 @ max temp). Hitting afterwards with the torch gets everything to bond completely.

luminarium iaculator
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I never had to use torch for my copper pills, brass pills  even easier. I also use good old hakko 936 Smile Not even max temperature somewhere at 80%...

Logically torch should be easier...

It just did not look like firm fit on your picture. I was probably wrong...

I test each pill with additional rasping or filing over the solder and if it drops I cant solder the driver until I fix this.

Kloepper Knife Works
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luminarium iaculator wrote:

I never had to use torch for my copper pills, brass pills  even easier. I also use good old hakko 936 Smile Not even max temperature somewhere at 80%…

Logically torch should be easier…

It just did not look like firm fit on your picture. I was probably wrong…

I test each pill with additional rasping or filing over the solder and if it drops I cant solder the driver until I fix this.

You’re not totally wrong, I bet your sharp eyes noticed the area on the right side at bottom of the joint where it’s separated from the tube. That area is pretty small, the rest of it is solid.

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Oh, and I’d probably have better luck if I changed out to a larger tip. I’m usually too impatient to let the iron cool and switch out to a larger chisel tip, and that small torch is always right there begging to be used.

luminarium iaculator
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Hakko 936 system is easy. So for example I got 2 soldering iron handles. One with fat tip for pre tining pills and one with finer tip for other finer stuff. When you are done just unplug handle and put in new one.

It is bugger to wait cooldown you have handles here they cost like peanuts: http://www.aliexpress.com/item/936-Electric-Soldering-Solder-Iron-Statio...

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Hi…

I’m researching the uniquefire flashlights to use for a special application, a long distance photoelectric beam, but can’t find any specs on the minimum beam angle (spot beam) …the supplier ‘does not have the data’ supposedly, does anyone know what it is for say the 1503 model?

Thanks in advance..

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Turboflash wrote:
Hi... I'm researching the uniquefire flashlights to use for a special application, a long distance photoelectric beam, but can't find any specs on the minimum beam angle (spot beam) ...the supplier 'does not have the data' supposedly, does anyone know what it is for say the 1503 model? Thanks in advance..

Welcome to BLF, Turboflash!

Here's a thorough answer Smile  :

the beam angle would be dependant on the die size of the used led, but assuming you use a modern infrared led, like the newest oslon black ir, the 1503 model will give a beam angle of 3 degrees.

I base this on my UF-1406 flashlight (the 2x18650 version of the 1503, optically the same) which has a beam angle of almost exactly 2 degrees with a dedomed XP-G2 (just measured: spot width=18cm at 5 meter distance). The die size of the Oslon, as observed through its dome (this is what the flashlight lens 'sees' as well) is exactly 1.5 times wider so the beam will be 3 degrees instead of the 2 degrees of my dedomed XP-G2 light.

(I ignore the focal length shift of the longer wavelength ir-light compared to white Wink )

luminarium iaculator
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I also tried this new Oslon Black SF4715A and while it has wider beam than 4715S and without that nasty middle hole I don't find it better performer. So I am looking forward for serious test and opinion from you Djozz.

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luminarium iaculator wrote:

I also tried this new Oslon Black SF4715A and while it has wider beam than 4715S and without that nasty middle hole I don't find it better performer. So I am looking forward for serious test and opinion from you Djozz.

Oh, oh, so you noticed I had not tested this one...

I want to do some other things first but I promise to do a direct comparison to the SFH 4715S eventually (emitter tests are very interesting, but because of the repetitive work require a bit more perseverence than doing flashlight mods..)

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You are BLF King... I learned a lot from your tests which are very nice explained with graphs and pictures.

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About the glass replacement lenses talked about. I have gone through quite my share of lenses from Fasttech, Edmund, Anchor, Thor, and Alibaba acrylic mass-produced lenses for common zoomies.

What I have found is what you might expect, you generally get what you pay for, of course. However, I obtained a few very good looking lenses from FT, which under inspection did not present many imperfections, ripples, or bubbles in the glass at all. Yet what I was usually most surprised to find, was that when I would obtain a cheapie glass lens like that, that also met the same objective-aperture size as an acrylic lens, the acrylic lens yielded higher kCd by a substantial percentage in nearly all tests. For example, a very cheap host I have available here locally on the store shelves is a sliding zoomie, with 50mm plano-convex acrylic lens size (total lens OD). When I replaced that lens with a FT 49.5mm lens (JGF-50DT-2 49.5mm Optical Glass Plano-convex Lens), having the same lens aperture (curved diameter) as the acrylic lens, slightly shorter FL by a few mm, the acrylic lens yielded a kCd over 25% greater. What I have found with acrylic lenses, is it is really hit and miss—some have visible wavy dimples on the plano side, or fuzz-like strands inside the plastic with bubbles galore. But, when both lenses are “great” looking, I almost always find acrylic to be better in un-coated transmittance than cheap glass. I would likely attribute this to the acrylic having a lower index of refraction than some of the cheap glass used by these cheap lens makers. Furthermore, there aren’t many options when you do find a size you want, so that doesn’t help things. It is well documented however, that acrylic yields high-performing lenses in many different applications for commercial component use over some or many glass substrates. So never, ever, dismiss acrylic!

When the glass is quite good however, the focal image is very smooth to sharp all around the area of optimal focal-point, with very limited coma even if slightly de-focused. When the lens has a poorly calculated mold/aspheric profile, or poor glass substrate (while still looking geometrically optimal in casting), at nearer 10-15 meter distances the image will be filled with visible coma from many stray light-ray refractions radiating from different non-collimated angles. That is your dead giveaway to a cheap glass substrate; a fog of light around the focused image.

Edmunds and Thor have provided me excellent glass I will say. I do use an optical translation stage when testing lenses (twin moving stages adjustable on a fixed 500mm rail through rack-pinion knob adjustments), so that near perfect alignment/FL does occur in the tests. I have a coating supplier for AR-VIS broadband now, with a new coating available that covers the entire range of LED white light mix from 425nm-675nm @ <0.5% R value with zero R rise between those wavelengths. Such coatings will further benefit the kCd by typically 5-6% minimal increase, sometimes as high as 10%, and result in very true color rendering of the die. …Makes me giggle when I see FT stating; “98% Light Transmittance” on un-coated lenses. Smile

I am going to pursue one of these light builds with one of my reflective apertures and follow the progress here. They do look like very interesting material for an overhaul. Smile

I like bright lights, and I cannot lie.

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