inside the acebeam K40M - lots of pics and NOW modded!

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M4D M4X
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eebowler wrote:
M4DM4X, in post 11, first pic, the resistor next to the capacitor might need resoldering. It looked weird from the begening. (Post 1)

i resoldered a bit… not a beauty, but works Wink

too small parts for my shaking hands Big Smile

edit made a video just for Mr. FOSSIL Wink opening the tail cap of acebeam K40M: http://youtu.be/WquvRFsAWgA

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FOSSIL
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M4D M4X wrote:

edit made a video just for Mr. FOSSIL Wink opening the tail cap of acebeam K40M: http://youtu.be/WquvRFsAWgA

Thanks a lot sir for the effort…. ill try it again…

FOSSIL
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Sir M4d m4x, tried it… and it works!!!!!! Counterclockwise it is….thanks again sir…. :bigsmile:

Youre more knowledgeable than acebeam (acebeam emailed me clockwise Sad )

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you are welcome!

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M4D M4X wrote:
thanks for your answers! DTP will be checked net time I open the light. (that simple idea did not came into my head) @lumen increase : is that the way vinh does the driver? I saw he also ads heatsink… what could be expected from a R100? vinh level or on the saver side?

 

I have a Vinh K40Mvn and it is a Supbeam. The driver is slightly different than the one in our Acebeam K40M and looks like the driver from the Supbeam K50 group buy that I received. The resistor that Vinh added looks like a white zero ohm resistor.

Here’s a link to the Vinh K40M: 

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?385992-K40Mvn-%28Must-Have%29
Note that Vinh says “Mode 6 max brightness is intended to run on short burst only. Will get hot in about 3-4 minutes.” I can vouch that this is a true statement! Wink

I will mod my Acebeam K40M and then probably sell the Supbeam Vinh K40Mvn…. it’s a very popular light but I don’t need two of them. :bigsmile:

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Also would like to add that De-domeing the MT-G2 LED is great in this light. Really adds to throw which is super nice to have with the big refector in this K40M. And as you know the MT-G2 LED already is a great flood LED so dedoming gives the best of both worlds in this K40M.

Both of mine are dedomed and now I wish I had taken before and after beam shots.

Edit – Did a search and found these beamshots of the K40Mvn here, look at post #45 by mmander for the K40Mvn: http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?370723-Beam-Shots-Photo-Thread/page2&highlight=K40M+beam+shot

And then scroll down to post #52, #53, and #55 by birderbill for a dedomed K40Mvn beam shot.

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max wrote:

Also would like to add that De-domeing the MT-G2 LED is great in this light. Really adds to throw which is super nice to have with the big refector in this K40M. And as you know the MT-G2 LED already is a great flood LED so dedoming gives the best of both worlds in this K40M.

Both of mine are dedomed and now I wish I had taken before and after beam shots.

Edit – Did a search and found these beamshots of the K40Mvn here, look at post #45 by mmander for the K40Mvn: http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?370723-Beam-Shots-Photo-Thread/page2&highlight=K40M+beam+shot

And then scroll down to post #52, #53, and #55 by birderbill for a dedomed K40Mvn beam shot.

I have a dedomed K40Mvn, somehow no one has measure this light, do you have an guesstimate on how much kcd does it throw out?

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hey guys!

I measured the amps at the tailcap
(Removed rear switch and connected battery tube threads and outer ring of battery holder)
gave me:

Lvl Amps
1 0.001
2 0.034
3 0.395
4 1.11
5 2.21
6 4.95

middle to outer ring of battery holder measured 12,1 Volts
(be careful NOT to shorten it with dmm in amp mode ;))

please give me your numbers…

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ChibiM
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Whaaa..that's exactly what I did...I tried to measure amps on the battery carrier positive and battery negative....Don't do that..

Thanks for letting me know.

Aslan
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Hi M4D M4X!
I have SupBeam K40M, and would like to make it more powerful as you described! But, my driver is a little bit different! Here is a photo:

What to do to increase the power as you have described? In my driver does not have those resistors (R082) as you have in the driver where they are you, my empty …
And the second question after removing the driver, lost 5 mode (1900lumen), it is necessary to watch the fifth (in a circle), a three-legged resistor, right?
Thank you! Sorry for my english (google translate)

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yes – you ripped the 5th magnetic sensor…
(2nd picture / left from upper hole you can see it)
try to resoldering carefully Wink

can you make another picture which shows what is beside the big yellow thingie?

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Aslan
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Thanks
Oк, but later)

ImA4Wheelr
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Hi Asian.  I think the voltage sense resistors are on the other side (bottom) of your driver.  I'm guessing you driver will be similar to the drivers in the TN31's.  Need a picture to know.  Or you could search for "TN31 mod".

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now i am looking at your pictures on a laptop – a lot of the magnetic sensors look turned…

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Aslan
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and the other side please where the spring is…

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Aslan
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It is stuck, than then again to stick together? Thermopaste? Thermoglue? What?

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Probably attached in a similar was as the K50 driver.

http://budgetlightforum.com/node/32856#comment-622084

Mod at own risk.. It can be fairly stuck.

BLF LED database – collaboration spreadsheet and latest news about where to buy LEDs
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/19342

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the contact board was not glued on mine
I pressed a bit with the finger nail and it popped off

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max wrote:

Also would like to add that De-domeing the MT-G2 LED is great in this light. Really adds to throw which is super nice to have with the big refector in this K40M. And as you know the MT-G2 LED already is a great flood LED so dedoming gives the best of both worlds in this K40M.

Both of mine are dedomed and now I wish I had taken before and after beam shots.

Did you dedome the LED yourself? Which method?

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if one does it – please make before / after shots! Wink

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prisma wrote:
max wrote:

Also would like to add that De-domeing the MT-G2 LED is great in this light. Really adds to throw which is super nice to have with the big refector in this K40M. And as you know the MT-G2 LED already is a great flood LED so dedoming gives the best of both worlds in this K40M.

Both of mine are dedomed and now I wish I had taken before and after beam shots.

Did you dedome the LED yourself? Which method?

+1 Share your dedome method, Did the dedome made the tint cooler?, I recall someone writing about a cooler tint after dedome…

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Never got around to post how I did my mod, but here are some old pictures.

The driver was a PITA to get out, otherwise this mod would have gone quick and smooth. I don't have problems with sealed screws, but on my light they must have combined sealed screws with something that looks like blue loctite (I drilled out the screw head). I got my light properly assembled again after some work, and replacing a screw.

2xR100 was added.

 

Stock current on all modes:

0,00

0,05

0,52

1,38

2,58

4,75A stepdown to 4,18

 

After mod (2xR100 added)

2xR100

0,00

0,05

2,18

4,01

7,4 (Faling quickly and stepdown to 6,15A)

 

K40M stock emitter amp

4,86 startup

4,77 10 sec

4,71 30 sec

4,66 1 min

4,18 1 min 10 sec ( after stepdown)

4,16 2 min

4,14 2 min 30 sec

4,12 3 min 30 sec

4,11 4 min 30 sec

4,10 5 min

 

Modded:

7,1 10 sec

6,94 30 sec

6,81 1 min

6,15 1 sec 15 ( after stepdown)

6,14 1min 30 sec

6,09 2 min

6,06 2 min 30 sec

6,02 3 min

5,99 3 min 30  

5,97 4 min - (59degree C, stopped test. Very similar behavior to stock, just hotter.)

 

Sorry if a messed up a number or two, these were just from my quick notes.

The light now got stupid hot around the control ring if its used on the highest setting.  Heat transfer to the head is not that great (not unusual with this type of design). Not sure If ill recommend to push it that far since its well driven as a stock light. In all honestly, this light is so well driven stock, that modding may not be worth it.

I have added output numbers in the bonus section of my comparison thread (easy to compare with stock and other lights). Might end up adding more beamshots in the future. Might include impressions after more long term use in comparison to the other lights in that thread as well.. Time will tell.. Silly

BLF LED database – collaboration spreadsheet and latest news about where to buy LEDs
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/19342

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thanks!

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To unscrew glued screws I used Acetone. It softens the glue and it was easy to put scredriver tip.
No damage done.
Mike

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thanks for that great info!

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sp5it
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Damn, with 2x R100 it is insanely bright.
Superb torch.

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great!

any measured numbers before / after ?
beamshots??

Wink

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sp5it
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I compared visually to brightest torch I have, difference is huge.
Downside is that NCR18650B die very fast on maximum Smile
Mike

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After a few daus of use my K40m I have a problem with battery carrier.
Because of high current flow springs become flatten, soft and get weird colour due to heat. Now cells have no contact Sad
Any clue what springs should I use as replecemant?
Mike

Think of how stupid the average person is, and realize half of them are stupider than that. George Carlin

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