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Keepitsharp
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I don’t think they are still gluing the heads. My replacement was easy to open up.

I unscrewed my early glued ones without too much trouble and described here:

http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1038248#comment-1038248

Modified the early defective one and replaced emitters. Happily now have two S41S heads, and, you know, two heads are better than one!

A pocket rocket, for sure!

emarkd
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I bought a whole new light, S41S, after the head re-design. It was not glued. Its now a quad 4000K R90 219c on a mtnelec tiny25 Bistro driver. Much better.

Texas_Ace
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Head redesign? I have not checked into this thread in a few months, maybe give me the short version?

I was actually wanting to do just that myself to compare the CRI of the single tint vs a mixed tint.

patmurris
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Texas_Ace wrote:
Head redesign? I have not checked into this thread in a few months, maybe give me the short version?

Not sure how outdated you are… Here is a quick sum up: a lot of the original SS heads where faulty, mainly because the optics was pushing onto the leds, damaging them. BG acknowledged the issue and got a new head designed and sent back to customers that got faulty ones. Now this ‘new’ head is available as a stand alone replacement and is part of the actual S41S batch. It’s bezel is not glued anymore.

emarkd
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Texas_Ace wrote:
Head redesign? I have not checked into this thread in a few months, maybe give me the short version?

Short version is all I’ve got since I didn’t really follow it very closely myself, but as I understand it the original design for the head left the optic loose somehow, so that when the bezel was torqued down the optic was prone to twisting and shearing off domes. Maybe the factory knew this and that’s why they were glued originally? I don’t know – that’s speculation.

Regardless enough folks had damaged emitters at delivery that they redesigned the head to hold the optic still (and also sit lower I think) so that the bezel won’t cause it to twist. And now they’re no longer glued.

At least that’s my understanding. But I never ordered one of the earlier run lights and just barely followed the whole saga myself. Maybe someone else can correct me if I’ve misrepresented something.

Texas_Ace
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Ah, thanks for the info. What about the normal S41, are they still glued?

myflashguy
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wow! this thing is beautiful! Thumbs Up

Jerommel
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A minute or 2 in Turbo mode?
Mine steps down to high mode after about 37 seconds in Turbo.

keithd
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I just got my S14S, the LEDs and lens are 100% okay. No flaws from what I can see. Only minor complaints at all is the knurling is quite aggressive and it pinches the bottom o-ring just a little.

Now if my S41SC and extension tube will get here… Smile

g_sintornillos
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I received mine, XP-G3. On a primary inspection the driver’s retainer was a little loose, tight.

Sorry for my bad English (gogole transtorla)

myflashguy
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after reading some of recent post i notice there’s alot of problem with this light. what do you guys think….buy or wait? any advice? Shocked

emarkd
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myflashguy wrote:
after reading some of recent post i notice there’s alot of problem with this light. what do you guys think….buy or wait? any advice? Shocked

At this point I think its a buy. I waited for the issues to get ironed out myself and the light I received a few weeks ago has no issues to speak of. I’ve seen others post the same sentiment, but as always ymmv.

Jerommel
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myflashguy wrote:
after reading some of recent post i notice there’s alot of problem with this light. what do you guys think….buy or wait? any advice? Shocked

Well, i bought mine early december when it was around $ 33.
I think that’s a bargain for a stainless steel quad light with a pure copper head.
It’s the latest version without glue, so i can do what i want with it to improve / adapt it.
My only complaints are that the O ring in the bezel is too thin so the lens can move a little (even after putting a piece of diffuser sheet between optic and lens), the clip is pretty useless and cheap looking, the knurling is so sharp you can use it as a file, and i’m not sure if it should step down a mode after only 37 seconds in turbo mode.
For the rest, i love it and i would certainly buy it again for that price.
myflashguy
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emarkd wrote:

At this point I think its a buy. I waited for the issues to get ironed out myself and the light I received a few weeks ago has no issues to speak of. I’ve seen others post the same sentiment, but as always ymmv.

yeah martin said the same too. and thanks for your advice. i’ve just bought one a minute ago. i chose coloured w/ nichia 219B. Thumbs Up

myflashguy
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Jerommel wrote:
A minute or 2 in Turbo mode? Mine steps down to high mode after about 37 seconds in Turbo.

Could it be the battery problem? I’ll be using my Olight 16340 protected battery or 30Q 18650 hopefully no issue

djozz
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The 37 seconds (supposed to be 40) are a feature of the used BLF-A6 driver, which was developed for the BLF-A6 that needed about that timing to prevent overheating. Banggood just used that driver without adapting anything for the S41 (I’m not sure if they even have the knowledge to mess with firmware) , that with its copper chunk could use a bit longer stepdown timing.

SantaClaw
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My new head finally arrived today, I can confirm that it is NOT glued.. Well worth the wait Smile

emarkd
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I hate to be one of those people, but the best way to “fix” the driver (assuming you consider it inadequate) on this light is to dump it for a better one. I was actually pretty surprised (aka disappointed) to see that they had just wholesale copied over the A6 driver for this light. Mine immediately came out and was replaced by one of MtnElec’s Bistro drivers — more programmable, temp regulation instead of stepdown, and a great thru-board bypass. Reflowed 4 219cs to make the upgrade complete and it became a much better light altogether. I think the host is worth doing the upgrades.

Jerommel
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djozz wrote:
The 37 seconds (supposed to be 40) are a feature of the used BLF-A6 driver, which was developed for the BLF-A6 that needed about that timing to prevent overheating. Banggood just used that driver without adapting anything for the S41 (I’m not sure if they even have the knowledge to mess with firmware) , that with its copper chunk could use a bit longer stepdown timing.

Thanks for that info. Thumbs Up
illuminos
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I’ve read somewhere that a TPAD + carclo quad optic can be used if diameter on the optic is reduced. However, from what I can tell, the height of the set up differs from stock?

Has anyone successfully rebuilt this with carclo optics? I’m on the fence on this light and this could be a deciding factor.

vwpieces
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I have built an S41 with Tpad quad and fitted Carclo. Used XP-L HI 3A and it works great with MtnE Fet+1 on Bistro.
However I have Not tried it with the new designed heads they are now using. Optic is now supported in the copper head, not the legs of the optic as a Carclo would be.

illuminos
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vwpieces wrote:
I have built an S41 with Tpad quad and fitted Carclo. Used XP-L HI 3A and it works great with MtnE Fet+1 on Bistro. However I have Not tried it with the new designed heads they are now using. Optic is now supported in the copper head, not the legs of the optic as a Carclo would be.

Sounds like quite the pocket rocket. I’d be interested in doing something similar with 4× 219C.

How did you reduce the diameter of the optic? and did you notice any fitment issues? The original s41 optic and board has a different height than a tpad + carclo.

T18
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I’ve used these Nichia 219CT 4000K R9050 with the Mtn. Fet+1 Bistro and I don’t think it could get any better.. at least for my skill levels.

Edit: Plus I never did buy the complete light, I waited until the heads got straightened out and bought the heads only with using my points at BG the cost was $27 and $4 per LED, used all A6 no ano tubes and Astro tubes for the rest, always thought the SS tubes and switch would be just to heavy for my liking and it worked out great, especially the no ano A6 tubes all buffed up shiny, looks real good.

Caleb
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Has anyone noticed a difference in heat dissipation between the stainless and aluminum versions?

djozz
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I’m not saying that the BLF-A6 driver is a bad driver for the S41, just that it is not especially made for it and could use tweaks. I like it better than any other driver they could have chosen.

vwpieces
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illuminos wrote:

Sounds like quite the pocket rocket. I’d be interested in doing something similar with 4× 219C.

How did you reduce the diameter of the optic? and did you notice any fitment issues? The original s41 optic and board has a different height than a tpad + carclo.

That one got the Tpad soldered directly to the copper head using a hot plate. Carclo was filed by hand. You can trace the original optic on top of the Carclo to know when to stop filing. It is 2mm reduction which is 1mm all around it.

Allow me to explain a few things, mainly why… the switch to Tpad and Carclo.
These lights were originally Flawed by design. Optics were crushing emitters and ruining them. My reasoning to swap all parts inside was to keep the looks of the light and make it GOOD. Make what I had work again and make it better. Carclo optic has 4 legs to properly support it under pressure. But the Carclo optic does Not fit the original quad board. Tpad quad was made for the Carclo…

Now the copper head has two shelves to support the optic from crushing the emitters. This is where I am unsure if the Carclo will work inside the head now even if the size it reduced to 22mm to fit in the head recess. Honestly the original optic has a cleaner spot than a Carclo and the original optic already fits in the head. If I were to MOD a Newer S41S with redesigned head, I would simply swap the emitters to the original board and keep original optic. Original board is Nichia 219B or C size which is also XP size… XP-G, G2, G3, L and L HI.

But you may still want to consider the MtnE Fet drivers with Bistro to get a programmable thermal sensor to kick back modes at your desired temperature. Not just a blind timer control.

vwpieces
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If you decide to reflow emitters onto an original board, be aware the original board is also flawed.
You MAY have a board where the Red wire is soldered to the Minus and Black wire soldered to the Plus symbol. Emitters are flowed in reversed polarity to “FIX” the flawed board design. Pay attention to all this and make sure you install the emitters and wires accordingly. Same as they were.

If your original board is wired as red to + and black to – do some research to make sure you want it that way. Reason is that the MCPCB retaining screws are sitting on top of the POS traces and are only insulated by the tiny plastic washers. This could possibly cause a direct short and a Bad Lithium Ion Battery day… inside a closed container. Big Smile

illuminos
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I’m leaning towards the TPAD + carclo to fix all the little design flaws.

Did you have any issues with the height of the new set up? It seems like the stock set up sits taller and the TPAD + carclo will rattle loose in the head?

vwpieces
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Tpad and carclo fits fine height wise. I had measured each but can’t remember each set, it fits fine.

Tpad does have better traces for higher current.

But as I mentioned, if you buy the current versions it will have the shelf in the copper head, it is machined into the copper. If it interferes it can be ground out.

Jerommel
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djozz wrote:
I’m not saying that the BLF-A6 driver is a bad driver for the S41, just that it is not especially made for it and could use tweaks. I like it better than any other driver they could have chosen.

It’s okay for the S41*S* because with the 40 seconds limit it doesn’t get too hot.
The aluminum S41 could probably handle it a bit longer.

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