TK's Emisar D4 review

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Firelight2
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ToyKeeper wrote:
fischju wrote:
LOCK IT OUT. A friend of mine I bought one for lit his pocket on fire yesterday. Burned a hole through it. He’s not injured, just an idiot for leaving the memory on turbo and not using the pocket clip or lockout.

I’m not surprised. This thing uses twice as much power as my soldering iron. Starting fires is not a difficult task for it.

Basically the entire top half of the ramp is “turbo”, as in “burst mode only”. There are reasons why it steps down quickly and doesn’t have a way to completely disable thermal regulation. Big Smile

(if used inside an insulated space like a pocket, though, even a few seconds can be long enough to cause trouble… and it has no way to sense when that’s happening)


I love this light.

It should be renamed “The NutRoaster” or something like that. Evil

I carry it in my pocket without any lockout, however I do make sure to only put it in my pocket with it turned off in a low setting. If it does turn on accidentally, hopefully it won’t ramp up to dangerous settings before I notice.

The button protrudes slightly, but does seem flat enough that I haven’t had any accidental activations yet. Keeping fingers crossed it doesn’t happen.

ToyKeeper
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maukka wrote:
Nothing surprising in CRI. …
tocirahl wrote:
Made some interesting graphs for FET+1 efficiency…

I don’t have anything to add, but I really appreciate the extra info and measurements! Posts like these make me sad that BLF doesn’t have a ‘like’ button. Smile

hank
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Quote:
This thing uses twice as much power as my soldering iron

I eagerly await the Guide to Flow Soldering On Your Flashlight

Just put a little metal flat plate over the emitter, eh?

ledalex
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Firelight2 wrote:
Incidentally, I tried checking the driver in one of my D4s.

Unlike the prototype reviewed in this thread my driver was NOT glued in. It was just press-fit. I was able to push it out using the pointy end of a flat toothpick inserted around the LED wires. This means getting to the driver to reflash it should be easy.

I popped mine out with the end of a match (not the striking end). It popped out pretty easily.

Hank mentioned he’s sending me a new Emisar so hopefully that will arrive soon. I sent back the defective one to RMM today so it will be interesting to hear what was actually wrong with it.

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hank wrote:
Quote:
This thing uses twice as much power as my soldering iron
I eagerly await the _Guide to Flow Soldering On Your Flashlight_ Just put a little metal flat plate over the emitter, eh?

Is the paste conductive enough to run before it reflows fully?  Maybe just stick the emitters on there and crank the power up to 100% until they reflow themselves.  sealed  

Mountain Electronics : batteries, Noctigon, and much more! What's new? 

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fischju wrote:
If you carry this light in the high pepper configurations, LOCK IT OUT. A friend of mine I bought one for lit his pocket on fire yesterday. Burned a hole through it. He’s not injured, just an idiot for leaving the memory on turbo and not using the pocket clip or lockout.

I was thinking the other day…….. geeeeez, in the wrong hands this is an accident waiting to happen. Like George Carlin said “ think for a second how dumb the ‘average’ person is……. then half the people will be dumber than them” I don’t think anyone that knows what they are holding will have problems short of an accident but think of all the folks(especially yunguns) that might turn it on without knowing that it is not just a ‘regular flashlight’.
I was in particular thinking of a young kid(3-5yo) that might turn the light on then drop it on something flammable. Its just scary.

Im not a Pessimist …. just an Optimist with a lot of experience


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My V2 219C Emisar D4 blinks/flashes twice whenever the tailcap is loosened more than about 1/10 turn and then re-tightened.

I couldn’t find anything here about a “feature” like that, but the thread about the “Noctigon Meteor D4” at the other light place says “LED flashes twice when tail cap screwed on with unprotected battery in.”

I don’t think that’s the case here, as putting a protected cell in my D4 did NOT get rid of the double blinks (but it did make me feel kind of stupid though Facepalm ).

Anybody have any idea what’s going on here?

Firelight2
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All three of my D4s blink twice when a fresh battery of any size is put in. (Samsung 30q, Efest 18500, Aspire 18350). I think this is just a feature to let you know the light now has power.

CRX
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Did a little realtime usage test of the D4 with a first gen Aspire 18350.

First with the light completely static, no fan or cooling shining into my isphere and then another test with more normal usage, moving around, changing hands, positions etc.

Firelight2
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Nice test CRX.

What emitters were in the D4 you tested?

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Nichia version.

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Firelight2 wrote:
All three of my D4s blink twice when a fresh battery of any size is put in. (Samsung 30q, Efest 18500, Aspire 18350). I think this is just a feature to let you know the light now has power.

That is correct. It blinks when power is connected, simply to indicate that it has power.

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CRX wrote:
Did a little realtime usage test of the D4 with a first gen Aspire 18350.

First with the light completely static, no fan or cooling shining into my isphere and then another test with more normal usage, moving around, changing hands, positions etc.

!{width:80%}[img]http://i.imgur.com/PNDIcsi.png[/img]!

Looks like 400 to 600 is its happy spot when hand held. Nice!

That’s my happy spot for real world usage. Thumbs Up

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CRX wrote:
Did a little realtime usage test of the D4 with a first gen Aspire 18350.

This test really shows the value of using one’s hand as a heat sink.

It looks like you set the temperature ceiling to 35, yes? The units are approximately in Celsius, though they vary significantly from one MCU to the next. Regardless, 35 is pretty low. I’m not surprised it ramped down farther than necessary with a low target level and no cooling.

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Yeah, a bit annoyed at that, I was playing around with it yesterday and must have left it at that low level, didn’t check the temp setting until afterwards. Still, gives an indication. 3 blinks then 5, 35 Thumbs Up

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Has anyone made a video of the UI yet? i have yet to receive my D4, i just want to see it in action! haha.

Slow is smooth, smooth is fast.

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FWIW, the default temperature limit is 45, and the maximum is 70. It has no minimum, but if you set it below room temperature it’ll step down to the lowest allowed level and stay there.

If you try to set it to a temperature below 0, I think it may interpret that as 255, then save a value of 70 to eeprom. And if you actually manage to save a value higher than 70 to eeprom, it’ll set that back to 45 when the light boots.

The tempcheck mode reads 0 for any temperatures below 0. At one point, it’d wrap around and give below-freezing readings like 252 degrees (25 blinks, pause, 2 blinks), but I fixed that.

rizky_p
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is it possible with current driver configuration to blink and show battery voltage like when power is connected just like what Nitecore did with some of their lights?

ToyKeeper wrote:

That is correct. It blinks when power is connected, simply to indicate that it has power.

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ToyKeeper wrote:
And if you actually manage to save a value higher than 70 to eeprom, it’ll set that back to 45 when the light boots

Belt and suspenders. I like it.

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Firelight2
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rizky_p wrote:
is it possible with current driver configuration to blink and show battery voltage like when power is connected just like what Nitecore did with some of their lights?

You can check the battery voltage at any time by triple-clicking. It will blink first telling you the number of volts, then pause, then blink again for the number of 10ths of volts.

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rizky_p wrote:
is it possible with current driver configuration to blink and show battery voltage like when power is connected just like what Nitecore did with some of their lights?

Sure, if you change the code. Then it can do a battcheck instead of the power-on blink.

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zak.wilson wrote:
ToyKeeper wrote:
And if you actually manage to save a value higher than 70 to eeprom, it’ll set that back to 45 when the light boots

Belt and suspenders. I like it.

It’s not quite as excessive as it sounds — the eeprom is all 255 by default, so the “suspenders” activate at least once on first boot.

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ah i see thank you.

Firelight2 wrote:
You can check the battery voltage at any time by triple-clicking. It will blink first telling you the number of volts, then pause, then blink again for the number of 10ths of volts.
ToyKeeper wrote:
Sure, if you change the code. Then it can do a battcheck instead of the power-on blink.
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patmurris wrote:
Thanks maukka, i’m expecting the exact same light.

I’m always impressed with your measurements and graphics… Is there a thread where you explain how you achieve them? – what equipment and software?

I’ve looked into it once or twice. Do you have a few thousand dollars? Cash

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DB Custom wrote:
Um, unless my Lee Filters sample is not actually the optional HT (high heat) version, I’m not going to be able to filter the light. It kinda starts smoking and melts within mere seconds. Oops! So if I want high output green, it’s gotta be the Luminus $87 emitter. Sick

(Edit: This was on my Titanium/Cu Quad run by an 18500)

Or a green glass filter, but then it needs to be cut and attached.

(“It’s good that most people can’t remember their previous lives. Otherwise
things would be a lot more complicated than they already are.”
Ajaan Lee Dhammadharo)

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RMM wrote:

ledalex wrote:
Yeah, I think something else is going on. Unscrewing the lens and moving the board with the leds results in some weird stuff going on. Maybe the driver is bad. I haven’t heard back from Mountain yet. Hopefully they respond. You would think he’d check them before sending them out. Hank, I don’t see why it would matter how good of a conductor that wire is. If the switch is working, it’s allowing enough current through.

We check all of the lights we sell; individually, not one out a batch.  With something like this, however, it is possible that the light worked when we had it, but then over time the wire pinched more and started to give the fault.  


We did respond with a return shipping label and offer to fix/replace the light.  

Which is why Richard is the best!

(“It’s good that most people can’t remember their previous lives. Otherwise
things would be a lot more complicated than they already are.”
Ajaan Lee Dhammadharo)

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Did a run at 57°

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Ran the 219c D4 on the 100% 7135 mode overnight.

To put the efficacy in perspective, the Astrolux S41 (219B) gets about 60 lm/W on the ~100 lumen mode according to my old measurements with an 18350 Efest.

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what emitter was this done with please?

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Tint graphs for the 219c D4.

Here’s the tint shift in different parts of the beam on 100% 7135.

Tint in different brightness modes.

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