Seems to be back with a Nichia 219B SW45k R9080 emitter.
It’s an excellent AA light. It’s great for gifting to muggles. Make sure you dont use 14500 with it or it will kill driver. I tried it.
Odd, I have one of the original ones that I have been able to use AA and 14500’s in without issue.
dk21291 wrote:
shirnask wrote:
Thanks for noticing, ordered 2 in case they disappear again!
Was about to get two but then I looked through the other lights they had in the “other lights” section, couldn’t pass up a copper AA cube
I almost ordered that one also!
Some people had issues some didn’t with the first batch using 14500 but mine wasn’t the only one that killed the driver using 14500. That’s why Enogear/FF later changed the spec to say AA only. They made another version with built in usb charging that was 14500 only, which is another really excellent light that I’m surprised they aren’t selling. They are extremely easy to mod. I put in Optisolis and E21A emitters in them.
I also have the copper one, which seems too hard for me to mod. It’s unique but the tint is not good. If they can put in a 219B or SST20 2700K JA3 or 4000K FA3, that would make it really nice IMO.
Shame to see that. I had seen a different review where the reviewer stated they didn’t see any by eye or with the camera they had. Maybe it won’t be bad PWM?
Shame to see that. I had seen a different review where the reviewer stated they didn’t see any by eye or with the camera they had. Maybe it won’t be bad PWM?
Oh it’s pretty bad on low, gets better on medium, can’t see it on high. I don’t see PWM unless it’s super slow or I turn my head quickly. Not annoying enough for me to stay away from it.
My daughter has some of those RGB light strips in her room with the slowest PWM I’ve ever seen. If I can see it, it’s horrible.
It is fairly easy to get apart and mod though. It’s put together kinda haphazardly. Sorta like put all the parts in and smoosh them together. For the real PWM sensitive people, consider it a good host. I got one with a 219b in it and another with sst-20. The other ones are still stock sitting in a drawer. Again the PWM doesn’t bother me so I had no need to swap in a driver. A ultratac A1 driver might be a good choice. Not certain on fitment issues. $19 for a nice stainless host, I think, is still pretty reasonable.
> $19 for a nice stainless host, I think, is still pretty reasonable.
yes, it does look like a nice host
other nice hosts with PWM include the AA Ti Tool, and the AA Thrunite T10T.. they cost more but also weigh less than Stainless.. choices are good.. enjoy!
Seems like most are passing on this light on account of the PWM issue, but when I went to check my tracking number today I noticed some new stuff on the site. In addition to the Cree and Nichia, this light now lists the following emitter options that AFAIK weren’t there before:
Got mine today, didn’t have any previously but it seems like a decent light.
I spent far too much time figuring out the tail switch, pretty clever design. I couldn’t easily budge the pill on the head side though. I’m guessing I can use the holes the LED wires go through to leverage the pill out?
The pill looks a bit like a (recessed) washer with threads for the head protruding on one side and threads for the body protruding on the other side. I guess you removed the head-part. It’s a bit of roulette which part come off first, head or body. If things go as planned, it should be the body part. Just as seen in the thirf picture of the OP. So I use a tiny drop of glue on the head end of the pill, in the hope the other part comes off first.
The pill is not (eg. should not be) screwed in with a lot of force, it is the side you put a new battery in. So it should come loose by using a rubber strap. Or by using rubber (garden) gloves.
—
You are a flashaholic if you are forced to come out of the closet, to make room for more flashlights.
Guess what appeared this morning in my door?
Yes!! The SS light
My perspective: it is small (not the smaller AA, though, if compared to the DQG Slim Ti), it is heavy (heavier that other AA lights and even some 16340s, but…it is Stainless Steel), it is very well done (no apparent flaws on machining anywhere), it is robust (really robust, what makes it ideal for EDC), the beam is pretty nice ( mine has a vey good Neutral White, I chose the Nichia 219B SW45k D220 R9080 4500K). The UI is straight forward, 3 modes without memory, no complains, and I just didn’t check for the PWM or driver whining. Like
Also, flat top cells such as the Sanyo UR14500P may not do contact with the driver because of the retaining ring! Button top cells work.
About chemistry, I tried the Lumintop 14500 Li-Ion cell and it lit up and immediately shut down again. I thought I had fried the driver, but then I tried an AA alkaline and had no problems. So, using Li-Ion cells may bring some issues!
I am really happy that Fireflies did these lights again!
Referencing your pic, what are the lights? I think that’s a Tool Ti on the right side.
Yup, you are correct, the one on the right side is a Lumintop Tool TI (AAA/10440, modded by CRX)!
The line is (left to right):
1- Nitefox ES10K (Stainless Steel, AA/14500)
2- hc-lights SS AAA (Stainless Steel, AAA/10440, similar to the BLF 348)
3- Amutorch S3 (Stainless Steel, AA/14500)
4- FireFlies SS AA
5- DQG AA Slim Ti (Titanium alloy, AA/14500)
6- Lumintop Tool Ti (Titanium, AAA/10440, modded by CRX)
Just wanted to report that my Enogear AA Stainless Steel just went dead one day (been like it since February 2020). It was mainly a shelf queen with very little to no usage and a Eneloop 2000 mAh. Turned it on and no light… checked battery with charger and battery was at 1.33 volts. Tried loosening and re-tightening tailswitch but no avail… if it did come on, it was intermittent and did not cycle between levels… nice looking “poor man’s” Haiku but sucks in reliability department. And no, I have not inserted 14500 into at all… I’ll have to place a tag with “All Show, No Go” on the clip.
—
I’ve got a thrower, a flooder, and an EDC too. Still looking for a bigger thrower, flooder, and a new EDC, give or take a few. I’m a flashaholic.
I have some issues with my latest one as well, only inserted a new Duracell alkaleak.
It sometimes works as intended, but sometimes it just steps down to a (lower than low) level and i cannot increase the brightness again.
Sometimes loosening and tightening the head works, but the last time (when i needed it) it didn’t and it stayed dim.
I have some issues with my latest one as well, only inserted a new Duracell alkaleak.
It sometimes works as intended, but sometimes it just steps down to a (lower than low) level and i cannot increase the brightness again.
Sometimes loosening and tightening the head works, but the last time (when i needed it) it didn’t and it stayed dim.
Did you try tightening the retaining ring or maybe unscrew body tube completely and use wire to rule out tail problem?
Some people had issues some didn’t with the first batch using 14500 but mine wasn’t the only one that killed the driver using 14500. That’s why Enogear/FF later changed the spec to say AA only. They made another version with built in usb charging that was 14500 only, which is another really excellent light that I’m surprised they aren’t selling. They are extremely easy to mod. I put in Optisolis and E21A emitters in them.
I also have the copper one, which seems too hard for me to mod. It’s unique but the tint is not good. If they can put in a 219B or SST20 2700K JA3 or 4000K FA3, that would make it really nice IMO.
Awesome. Thank you all for your information.
Not really a noob but I still haven't purchased a soldering iron.
THC
Ordered a spare thanks for the heads-up
Great lights for the money
That color on the bottom one has me regretting not getting a 2nd one. How did you get that color?
With a flame torch
thank you!
ordered two
I blame this picture for pushing me over the edge
I should have searched for PWM before buying
there is PWM noticeable in Low and Medium.
woe is me
WTB Novatac Pocket Clip
Shame to see that. I had seen a different review where the reviewer stated they didn’t see any by eye or with the camera they had. Maybe it won’t be bad PWM?
Oh it’s pretty bad on low, gets better on medium, can’t see it on high. I don’t see PWM unless it’s super slow or I turn my head quickly. Not annoying enough for me to stay away from it.
My daughter has some of those RGB light strips in her room with the slowest PWM I’ve ever seen. If I can see it, it’s horrible.
"Everywhere I go, there I am"
thanks for your comments
I cancelled my order
WTB Novatac Pocket Clip
I can put 14500 in mine without any problem.
Blog: https://lumenzilla.com
It is fairly easy to get apart and mod though. It’s put together kinda haphazardly. Sorta like put all the parts in and smoosh them together. For the real PWM sensitive people, consider it a good host. I got one with a 219b in it and another with sst-20. The other ones are still stock sitting in a drawer. Again the PWM doesn’t bother me so I had no need to swap in a driver. A ultratac A1 driver might be a good choice. Not certain on fitment issues. $19 for a nice stainless host, I think, is still pretty reasonable.
"Everywhere I go, there I am"
> $19 for a nice stainless host, I think, is still pretty reasonable.
yes, it does look like a nice host
other nice hosts with PWM include the AA Ti Tool, and the AA Thrunite T10T.. they cost more but also weigh less than Stainless.. choices are good.. enjoy!
WTB Novatac Pocket Clip
Nice. I guess there are no BLF coupons on FF website?
Because for me $19 for SS AA host seems high.
Seems like most are passing on this light on account of the PWM issue, but when I went to check my tracking number today I noticed some new stuff on the site. In addition to the Cree and Nichia, this light now lists the following emitter options that AFAIK weren’t there before:
SST20 4000K FA3 CRI95 (+$1.00)
SST20 2700K JA3 CRI95 (+$1.00)
Got mine today, didn’t have any previously but it seems like a decent light.
I spent far too much time figuring out the tail switch, pretty clever design. I couldn’t easily budge the pill on the head side though. I’m guessing I can use the holes the LED wires go through to leverage the pill out?
The pill looks a bit like a (recessed) washer with threads for the head protruding on one side and threads for the body protruding on the other side. I guess you removed the head-part. It’s a bit of roulette which part come off first, head or body. If things go as planned, it should be the body part. Just as seen in the thirf picture of the OP. So I use a tiny drop of glue on the head end of the pill, in the hope the other part comes off first.
The pill is not (eg. should not be) screwed in with a lot of force, it is the side you put a new battery in. So it should come loose by using a rubber strap. Or by using rubber (garden) gloves.
You are a flashaholic if you are forced to come out of the closet, to make room for more flashlights.
Guess what appeared this morning in my door?
Yes!! The SS light
My perspective: it is small (not the smaller AA, though, if compared to the DQG Slim Ti), it is heavy (heavier that other AA lights and even some 16340s, but…it is Stainless Steel), it is very well done (no apparent flaws on machining anywhere), it is robust (really robust, what makes it ideal for EDC), the beam is pretty nice ( mine has a vey good Neutral White, I chose the Nichia 219B SW45k D220 R9080 4500K). The UI is straight forward, 3 modes without memory, no complains, and I just didn’t check for the PWM or driver whining. Like
Also, flat top cells such as the Sanyo UR14500P may not do contact with the driver because of the retaining ring! Button top cells work.
About chemistry, I tried the Lumintop 14500 Li-Ion cell and it lit up and immediately shut down again. I thought I had fried the driver, but then I tried an AA alkaline and had no problems. So, using Li-Ion cells may bring some issues!
I am really happy that Fireflies did these lights again!
MY REVIEWS THREAD /// My Flashlight Collection ///
Mods: 1 / 2 // TIR: 1 / 2 // Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 /// My Review's Blog (PT) /// OL Contest 2019 /// OL Contest 2020 /// GIVEAWAYs: 1 / 2
Some work with 14500 and some don’t. Luck of the draw I guess. I asked by email and was told they can use 14500. This was over a year ago. Mine does.
Yeah, seems there are very different experiences with this light! I guess mine will only take a 14500 when I mod the driver (hopefully
MY REVIEWS THREAD /// My Flashlight Collection ///
Mods: 1 / 2 // TIR: 1 / 2 // Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 /// My Review's Blog (PT) /// OL Contest 2019 /// OL Contest 2020 /// GIVEAWAYs: 1 / 2
It’s a strange light, but very likeable. Glad you like it.
Maybe one day we find the perfect “blf” driver for this light.
I got excited when I saw the 2700K option but then I saw the comments about PWM.
Why go to the trouble of getting a warm, pretty, high CRI emitter if it’s going to be rendered ugly with headache-inducing PWM?!?
Referencing your pic, what are the lights? I think that’s a Tool Ti on the right side.
Attempting to build a Convoy of Convoys.
Yup, you are correct, the one on the right side is a Lumintop Tool TI (AAA/10440, modded by CRX)!
The line is (left to right):
1- Nitefox ES10K (Stainless Steel, AA/14500)
2- hc-lights SS AAA (Stainless Steel, AAA/10440, similar to the BLF 348)
3- Amutorch S3 (Stainless Steel, AA/14500)
4- FireFlies SS AA
5- DQG AA Slim Ti (Titanium alloy, AA/14500)
6- Lumintop Tool Ti (Titanium, AAA/10440, modded by CRX)
MY REVIEWS THREAD /// My Flashlight Collection ///
Mods: 1 / 2 // TIR: 1 / 2 // Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 /// My Review's Blog (PT) /// OL Contest 2019 /// OL Contest 2020 /// GIVEAWAYs: 1 / 2
Mascaratum, you forgot to mention that it’s the AAA version of the Lumintop Tool Ti
I did not my friend
It is on the confirmation of nightwalker’s question
But I’ll add the info on the list
MY REVIEWS THREAD /// My Flashlight Collection ///
Mods: 1 / 2 // TIR: 1 / 2 // Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 /// My Review's Blog (PT) /// OL Contest 2019 /// OL Contest 2020 /// GIVEAWAYs: 1 / 2
Just wanted to report that my Enogear AA Stainless Steel just went dead one day (been like it since February 2020). It was mainly a shelf queen with very little to no usage and a Eneloop 2000 mAh. Turned it on and no light… checked battery with charger and battery was at 1.33 volts. Tried loosening and re-tightening tailswitch but no avail… if it did come on, it was intermittent and did not cycle between levels… nice looking “poor man’s” Haiku but sucks in reliability department. And no, I have not inserted 14500 into at all… I’ll have to place a tag with “All Show, No Go” on the clip.
I’ve got a thrower, a flooder, and an EDC too. Still looking for a bigger thrower, flooder, and a new EDC, give or take a few. I’m a flashaholic.
Thanks for reporting that.
I have some issues with my latest one as well, only inserted a new Duracell alkaleak.
It sometimes works as intended, but sometimes it just steps down to a (lower than low) level and i cannot increase the brightness again.
Sometimes loosening and tightening the head works, but the last time (when i needed it) it didn’t and it stayed dim.
Did you try tightening the retaining ring or maybe unscrew body tube completely and use wire to rule out tail problem?
Not yet, i was hoping that when i buy a light, it works (is that too much asked)?
Will give it a try.
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