If you do nothing for the ceiling it does not change. You need to click once to get the max ceiling. Clicking once for the floor setting will give you the lowest floor. Clicking once for the highest ceiling level will give you maximum ceiling.
If you don't press anything, it won't change the value. Pressing nothing is how you tell it to leave the values unchanged.
klrman wrote:
Is there anyway to go past the ceiling that is set in Anduril?
Yes. While the light is on, double-click. This bypasses the ceiling and goes to full power. If you do that and it's still not as bright, there's probably a physical issue like dirty contacts or weak batteries or something, instead of a configuration issue.
Tried on click to set max but still quite a bit dimmer than my other rot66. When I get back home this evening, will do a good cleaning of all the contacts and give it another try.
Came home last night to find it had turned itself on while sitting on a shelf. There’s no way it was on when I left as all other lights in the house were out making it really obvious. Just sitting on a shelf all by itself and turned on with no interaction from anything. The voltage was still 3.7 so it can’t have been on for too long and it was war but not uncomfortably hot so at least thermal management was doing its job.
Has this happened to anyone else? Anybody familiar with the firmware/hardware have an idea how it would be possible?
Came home last night to find it had turned itself on while sitting on a shelf. There’s no way it was on when I left as all other lights in the house were out making it really obvious. Just sitting on a shelf all by itself and turned on with no interaction from anything. The voltage was still 3.7 so it can’t have been on for too long and it was war but not uncomfortably hot so at least thermal management was doing its job.
Has this happened to anyone else? Anybody familiar with the firmware/hardware have an idea how it would be possible?
I’ve never heard of that with any light. Weird.
—
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
like to buy a second one, but i think the threads are low quality ,the tube must be a litlle bit thicker ( also better for heat dissipation) to make the threads deeper. Also the ring to put the lanyard i think is very thin (metal on metal) better is a nylon lanyard. And final i like to see a better holster.
Than for shure i buy a other one mmm maybe two , for the rest i like so much this light.
Someone can inform me witch throw farther the sst 20 or the XPL hi?
i have the one with aux leds, with NarsilM ( I think bought it in september) mine english is not so good to understand the manual.
I want to chance the moonlight (higher) someone can explane me in simple words to high up the moonlight?
i have the one with aux leds, with NarsilM ( I think bought it in september) mine english is not so good to understand the manual.
I want to chance the moonlight (higher) someone can explane me in simple words to high up the moonlight?
Do you mean the moonlight level that you turn on from the off position?
It should be set to 3 out of 7. This can be changed to a 4, 5, 6 or 7 to make it brighter.
Or do you mean the lowest part of the ramp? This can not be changed in NarsilM.
—
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
i have the one with aux leds, with NarsilM ( I think bought it in september) mine english is not so good to understand the manual.
I want to chance the moonlight (higher) someone can explane me in simple words to high up the moonlight?
If your in ramping, you go into the menu (this might require 8 seconds or 16 seconds), wait for 2 fast and 2 slow blinks, then click maybe 5 or 6 times. Make sure they are fast clicks and you see the confirmation blink with each button press. Then let it exit the menu on its own.
—
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Came home last night to find it had turned itself on while sitting on a shelf. There’s no way it was on when I left as all other lights in the house were out making it really obvious. Just sitting on a shelf all by itself and turned on with no interaction from anything. The voltage was still 3.7 so it can’t have been on for too long and it was war but not uncomfortably hot so at least thermal management was doing its job.
Has this happened to anyone else? Anybody familiar with the firmware/hardware have an idea how it would be possible?
i have the one with aux leds, with NarsilM ( I think bought it in september) mine english is not so good to understand the manual.
I want to chance the moonlight (higher) someone can explane me in simple words to high up the moonlight?
If your in ramping, you go into the menu (this might require 8 seconds or 16 seconds), wait for 2 fast and 2 slow blinks, then click maybe 5 or 6 times. Make sure they are fast clicks and you see the confirmation blink with each button press. Then let it exit the menu on its own.
Thanks, it works the moonlight is 2 steps higher…. only i dont get the strobe mode anymore….i did something wronge
I just checked the manual and it says “NarsilM Version 1.2 code designed by Toykeeper & Tom-E”
It’s weird that it mentions me, since Tom wrote about 99% of it.
Anyway, I am not aware of any bugs which would cause NarsilM to turn itself on, but I don’t really know enough about it to say a bug doesn’t exist. The closest thing I saw was a thermal management bug in a fork of Narsil, where if it was hot and then was turned off, with just the wrong timing, it could try to “step down” from off to whatever level would have been next in the step-down sequence. But usually it wouldn’t happen while off; it would happen next time the light was turned on, which could be an unpleasant surprise if it was at moon level the next time.
But I don’t know if that’s even possible in NarsilM 1.2. It could just be that something made it think the button was pressed.
I just checked the manual and it says “NarsilM Version 1.2 code designed by Toykeeper & Tom-E”
It’s weird that it mentions me, since Tom wrote about 99% of it.
Anyway, I am not aware of any bugs which would cause NarsilM to turn itself on, but I don’t really know enough about it to say a bug doesn’t exist. The closest thing I saw was a thermal management bug in a fork of Narsil, where if it was hot and then was turned off, with just the wrong timing, it could try to “step down” from off to whatever level would have been next in the step-down sequence. But usually it wouldn’t happen while off; it would happen next time the light was turned on, which could be an unpleasant surprise if it was at moon level the next time.
But I don’t know if that’s even possible in NarsilM 1.2. It could just be that something made it think the button was pressed.
Yeah the weirder thing is prior to this it had been sitting on the same shelf without being used for about a week.
Do you think it could a hardware problem with the switch? I don’t know if that’s even possible with an e-switch.
If something made the switch close for a moment, then yes, it would turn on… it’s just odd for that to happen while it’s sitting unused on a shelf.
The time window for weird firmware behavior is only a few seconds. Certainly less than a minute. If it acted up more than a minute after being touched, it’s most likely a hardware issue, not firmware.
If something made the switch close for a moment, then yes, it would turn on... it's just odd for that to happen while it's sitting unused on a shelf.
I had a similar experience a while ago with my first firmware for momentary switches. The light sometimes turned on when my hand came close. I suspected spikes caused by static electricity which triggered the interrupt on the port where the switch is connected to. So I added debouncing code after wakeup which actually cured this problem:
Came home last night to find it had turned itself on while sitting on a shelf. There’s no way it was on when I left as all other lights in the house were out making it really obvious. Just sitting on a shelf all by itself and turned on with no interaction from anything.
Random Dan wrote:
Yeah the weirder thing is prior to this it had been sitting on the same shelf without being used for about a week.
Darn…. maybe it is “possessed!!
Or your house is haunted. .
Or someone is playing a trick on you & messing with your mind. . .
—
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
I had a similar experience a while ago with my first firmware for momentary switches. The light sometimes turned on when my hand came close. I suspected spikes caused by static electricity which triggered the interrupt on the port where the switch is connected to. So I added debouncing code after wakeup which actually cured this problem
NarsilM has some de-bouncing. Instead of using the pin change interrupt, it polls the switch on each WDT tick. This avoids most of the noise. Then it requires a steady state for at least N ticks before considering the button state changed. However, it looks like the duration is only 1 tick for button press (activates on first cycle), and 4 ticks for button release, using only one measurement per tick… so it could possibly trigger if the timing lined up exactly wrong.
Anduril has a different style of de-bouncing, because two of its hardware targets have very noisy switches — FW3A and lightsabers. The lightsaber switches in particular bounce for a really long time. At first it used the pin change interrupt, but that proved too noisy even with pretty strong debouncing, so now it polls via WDT. But when it polls, it waits for 32 consecutive identical values measured about 0.063 ms apart (stable for 2 ms). This seems to work pretty well even on the noisiest switches I’ve tried.
My dad was a mechanic and our neighbor bought an early VW, which he bragged about its good mileage incessantly.
My dad snuck out every other night for a few weeks and would pour some gas into the lil uberbug. (gas was way cheaper then)
Well, the guy was gushing ‘n raving at his phenomenal mileage.
Actually, i’m pretty happy with the thermals of my 219b version. Depending on the ambient temperature, I can get a bit above or below the max 7135 level without being uncomfortable to hold. That’s a pretty usable level; i think i’ll be using it a lot at that level.
TK gave me a good idea that actually hadn’t occured to me. I set the stepped ramp to have two modes, one at 65 and one at 115, so that I can quickly set it to exactly 1×7135 or max 7135, and then turn it back to regular ramping mode after. (It does go to 1×7135 when you unscrew and rescrew the batteries, but this is faster.)
My dad was a mechanic and our neighbor bought an early VW, which he bragged about its good mileage incessantly.
My dad snuck out every other night for a few weeks and would pour some gas into the lil uberbug. (gas was way cheaper then)
Well, the guy was gushing ‘n raving at his phenomenal mileage.
Until dad stopped doing it.
. I LOVE IT!! .
We did that to a guy with a new Chevy truck years ago. His “bragging” was annoying to say the least.
When it really gets good is after a few weeks of getting him up to unheard of phenomenal mileage….. start siphoning gasoline out for a few weeks.
After getting the guy down to unheard of pitifully low mileage he was almost on the verge of a mental breakdown. He was besides himself……
It cured his overbearing bragging forever though…. at work anyway.
—
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
i have the one with aux leds, with NarsilM ( I think bought it in september) mine english is not so good to understand the manual.
I want to chance the moonlight (higher) someone can explane me in simple words to high up the moonlight?
If your in ramping, you go into the menu (this might require 8 seconds or 16 seconds), wait for 2 fast and 2 slow blinks, then click maybe 5 or 6 times. Make sure they are fast clicks and you see the confirmation blink with each button press. Then let it exit the menu on its own.
Thanks, it works the moonlight is 2 steps higher…. only i dont get the strobe mode anymore….i did something wronge
This was around 40 years ago though when mileage in a truck was nothing near 20 mpg in the first place. Plus… the guy I’m speaking of was basically just an obnoxious braggart…. about pretty much anything he owned. His was always better than yours kind of guy.
He was not the sharpest pencil in the box either, somewhat gullible too.
Oddly… he was a bit more ‘humble’ after this though.
He was never told about it either.
IIRC we got him up to about 41 mpg and down to about 3 mpg over the course of many weeks. The dealership thought he was a nut case…. cause he told the story to them.
Oh yeah… he even got a locking gas cap during this time. It didn’t bother us at all. One of our close friends was locksmith…. we just had him come over one night & make us a key to the gas cap.
Good times & good memories…..
—
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
If you don't press anything, it won't change the value. Pressing nothing is how you tell it to leave the values unchanged.
klrman wrote:
Is there anyway to go past the ceiling that is set in Anduril?
Yes. While the light is on, double-click. This bypasses the ceiling and goes to full power. If you do that and it's still not as bright, there's probably a physical issue like dirty contacts or weak batteries or something, instead of a configuration issue.
Reset the maximum ceiling by pressing once and just cleaned all the contacts inside and on top of the carrier as well as the spring inside the head, but no difference. Then I swapped the carrier and batteries from my brighter rot66 but that didn't do anything either. I just emailed Jack, maybe he has an idea what is going on. Somehow I'm convinced there is a fix for this.
Interestingly enough, I went for a walk in the park tonight to show off my mateminco mt70 plus to my wife and of course if failed to turn on! Confused for a little while and then decided to clean all contact points inside and outside of the carrier as well as the head spring and it fired up. Amazing that an almost invisible amount of grease can shut the light down. I understand that it should be weaker but the light wouldn't even turn on and the breathing switch was dead until I cleaned everything up.
I tried that too, but still the same.
Tried on click to set max but still quite a bit dimmer than my other rot66. When I get back home this evening, will do a good cleaning of all the contacts and give it another try.
You can also try swapping the heads on your lights too. Leaving the batteries and everything the same. See if the problem gets transferred
Sooo… I think my ROT66 is possessed.
Came home last night to find it had turned itself on while sitting on a shelf. There’s no way it was on when I left as all other lights in the house were out making it really obvious. Just sitting on a shelf all by itself and turned on with no interaction from anything. The voltage was still 3.7 so it can’t have been on for too long and it was war but not uncomfortably hot so at least thermal management was doing its job.
Has this happened to anyone else? Anybody familiar with the firmware/hardware have an idea how it would be possible?
I’ve never heard of that with any light. Weird.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
Someone can inform me witch throw farther the sst 20 or the XPL hi?
i have the one with aux leds, with NarsilM ( I think bought it in september) mine english is not so good to understand the manual.
I want to chance the moonlight (higher) someone can explane me in simple words to high up the moonlight?
Agreed, but at least that part could be replaced. I think this is the same. Can you confirm?
https://www.amazon.com/CAMVATE-Connecting-Adapter-Fasten-Handle/dp/B01DC...
The low mode should be lower.
Do you mean the moonlight level that you turn on from the off position?
It should be set to 3 out of 7. This can be changed to a 4, 5, 6 or 7 to make it brighter.
Or do you mean the lowest part of the ramp? This can not be changed in NarsilM.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
Try my video about changing the menu settings.
https://youtu.be/xrwP3gG0I_A
If your in ramping, you go into the menu (this might require 8 seconds or 16 seconds), wait for 2 fast and 2 slow blinks, then click maybe 5 or 6 times. Make sure they are fast clicks and you see the confirmation blink with each button press. Then let it exit the menu on its own.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
Thats scary.. which state do you live?
Thanks, it works the moonlight is 2 steps higher…. only i dont get the strobe mode anymore….i did something wronge
Thanks, i think so on the FF its way to thin ..
Thanks for the Daytime shot Newlumen, I just saw the edit where you added it.
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$
Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart
Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help??? TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal
.
http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1361531#comment-1361531
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$
Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart
Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help??? TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal
That is very odd. Which firmware is on it?
It’s a Nichia model from Freeme’s group buy.
I just checked the manual and it says “NarsilM Version 1.2 code designed by Toykeeper & Tom-E”
It’s weird that it mentions me, since Tom wrote about 99% of it.
Anyway, I am not aware of any bugs which would cause NarsilM to turn itself on, but I don’t really know enough about it to say a bug doesn’t exist. The closest thing I saw was a thermal management bug in a fork of Narsil, where if it was hot and then was turned off, with just the wrong timing, it could try to “step down” from off to whatever level would have been next in the step-down sequence. But usually it wouldn’t happen while off; it would happen next time the light was turned on, which could be an unpleasant surprise if it was at moon level the next time.
But I don’t know if that’s even possible in NarsilM 1.2. It could just be that something made it think the button was pressed.
Yeah the weirder thing is prior to this it had been sitting on the same shelf without being used for about a week.
Do you think it could a hardware problem with the switch? I don’t know if that’s even possible with an e-switch.
If something made the switch close for a moment, then yes, it would turn on… it’s just odd for that to happen while it’s sitting unused on a shelf.
The time window for weird firmware behavior is only a few seconds. Certainly less than a minute. If it acted up more than a minute after being touched, it’s most likely a hardware issue, not firmware.
delay_250_micro_sec(80);if ( ! T_MOMENTARY_PRESSED )
goto OFF;
BLF Q8 Janus --- Emisar D4 RGBW --- Green Lantern and HAL 9000
6th Annual Light Contest Entry --- 7th Annual Light Contest Entry
Or your house is haunted.
Or someone is playing a trick on you & messing with your mind.
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$
Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart
Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help??? TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal
NarsilM has some de-bouncing. Instead of using the pin change interrupt, it polls the switch on each WDT tick. This avoids most of the noise. Then it requires a steady state for at least N ticks before considering the button state changed. However, it looks like the duration is only 1 tick for button press (activates on first cycle), and 4 ticks for button release, using only one measurement per tick… so it could possibly trigger if the timing lined up exactly wrong.
Anduril has a different style of de-bouncing, because two of its hardware targets have very noisy switches — FW3A and lightsabers. The lightsaber switches in particular bounce for a really long time. At first it used the pin change interrupt, but that proved too noisy even with pretty strong debouncing, so now it polls via WDT. But when it polls, it waits for 32 consecutive identical values measured about 0.063 ms apart (stable for 2 ms). This seems to work pretty well even on the noisiest switches I’ve tried.
My dad was a mechanic and our neighbor bought an early VW, which he bragged about its good mileage incessantly.
My dad snuck out every other night for a few weeks and would pour some gas into the lil uberbug. (gas was way cheaper then)
Well, the guy was gushing ‘n raving at his phenomenal mileage.
Until dad stopped doing it.
Actually, i’m pretty happy with the thermals of my 219b version. Depending on the ambient temperature, I can get a bit above or below the max 7135 level without being uncomfortable to hold. That’s a pretty usable level; i think i’ll be using it a lot at that level.
TK gave me a good idea that actually hadn’t occured to me. I set the stepped ramp to have two modes, one at 65 and one at 115, so that I can quickly set it to exactly 1×7135 or max 7135, and then turn it back to regular ramping mode after. (It does go to 1×7135 when you unscrew and rescrew the batteries, but this is faster.)
We did that to a guy with a new Chevy truck years ago. His “bragging” was annoying to say the least.
When it really gets good is after a few weeks of getting him up to unheard of phenomenal mileage….. start siphoning gasoline out for a few weeks.
After getting the guy down to unheard of pitifully low mileage he was almost on the verge of a mental breakdown. He was besides himself……
It cured his overbearing bragging forever though…. at work anyway.
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$
Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart
Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help??? TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal
Video for turning strobes on and off.
https://youtu.be/blNW_3VAcTE
Just do 3 clicks to turn all strobes on.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
Yeah spaceminions, I hear ya’.
This was around 40 years ago though when mileage in a truck was nothing near 20 mpg in the first place. Plus… the guy I’m speaking of was basically just an obnoxious braggart…. about pretty much anything he owned. His was always better than yours kind of guy.
He was not the sharpest pencil in the box either, somewhat gullible too.
Oddly… he was a bit more ‘humble’ after this though.
He was never told about it either.
IIRC we got him up to about 41 mpg and down to about 3 mpg over the course of many weeks. The dealership thought he was a nut case…. cause he told the story to them.
Oh yeah… he even got a locking gas cap during this time. It didn’t bother us at all. One of our close friends was locksmith…. we just had him come over one night & make us a key to the gas cap.
Good times & good memories…..
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$
Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart
Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help??? TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal
After couple weeks old rot66 lumen measurement. I borrowed xpl hi from skylumen.
Rot66 xpl hi 6500k. 7200 lumen
Rot66 sst20 CW. 6800 lumen
Rot66 samsung 4000k. 6300 lumen..
Reset the maximum ceiling by pressing once and just cleaned all the contacts inside and on top of the carrier as well as the spring inside the head, but no difference. Then I swapped the carrier and batteries from my brighter rot66 but that didn't do anything either. I just emailed Jack, maybe he has an idea what is going on. Somehow I'm convinced there is a fix for this.
Interestingly enough, I went for a walk in the park tonight to show off my mateminco mt70 plus to my wife and of course if failed to turn on! Confused for a little while and then decided to clean all contact points inside and outside of the carrier as well as the head spring and it fired up. Amazing that an almost invisible amount of grease can shut the light down. I understand that it should be weaker but the light wouldn't even turn on and the breathing switch was dead until I cleaned everything up.
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