5000 lumens? Wow! That’s quite a powerhouse on your forehead. I hope all the mass in the head soaks up a lot of heat.
I’d bet that a few of my night mountain biking friends would appreciate that kind of power. They ride year-round. It would be great in the winter with the cold keeping the light from stepping down too quickly.
If you’re looking for a right angle light, this one looks to be top of the heap. Even without the HI leds, 2500 lumens is nothing to sneeze at.
Beam profile is throw-ish in optics. Broad but focused hotspot, very subtle cool band around edge of hotspot. Tint from factory will be slightly green from factory, but with a minus green filter it’s perfection. Deep red rendering is off the charts, better than 219B R9080. Even without the minus green filter, wood tones look great, but with a minus green filter, nothing does it better.
Thanks. Might try those then. But I’ll probably also get one with 219b’s since I know I’d like it. Which minus green filter do you use? And would it be able to handle the heat from this light?
It’s the Lee Zircon 804. The Lee Zircon filters are designed to handle high heat from LEDs, so I think it should be fine. I haven’t had any fading issues yet.
It’s not going to stay at 5000 lumens for long. It’ll get too hot, and ramp down to keep itself from overheating. Even cold winter air is probably not enough to keep it at full power; it probably would need water cooling for that.
Also, I haven’t done thermal testing on it. I’m not sure yet how exactly it responds to full power, because the prototype I have uses a really thin MCPCB shelf. This was fixed in the production version, but I haven’t tested one of those. There’s also an issue with reflashing the driver while it’s still inside the host, so I don’t have a way to reflash an assembled light yet. So thermal response is currently unknown. It should drop to half power when hot, then use PID to regulate to a sustainable level.
Hmmm. Come to think of it, I think with the pl47 form factor maybe FF or somebody here can design a cable adapter and a headband of some sorts. One where you can screw in the head and the tube on the opposite ends of the cable. With headlamp mode the head is in your forehead and the battery at the back of your head (or helmet). I think this would make this a more balanced headlamp especially with a 21700 battery. And reading the BLF headlamp posts including diy headlamp projects it seems a lot of people (including myself) want this type of headlamp. They’re also quite expensive when buying from named brands and specialized (think caving) stores.
Location: State of Jefferson - Northern California
Can someone break down the typical uses and characteristics of these 5 different LED choices?
I have a NITECORE HC33 with the CREE XHP35 HD in whatever white tint it comes in and a THRUNITE TH30 with the CREE XHP70.2 LED in Cool White. The THRUNITE seems yellowish to me and pretty floody. The NITECORE is more of what I would call white and throws way more with a floody spill. I was wearing both last night in the grape vineyard, both on MAX at the same time and it was great! I could see 100 yards forward and about 30 yards to each side in vivid detail. Those purple grapes just popped. Had a C8 XM-L2 Cool with me as well, and when I turned that on I could see 300 yards forward, about 200 yards extremely well. Found four cats wondering what the heck I was doing. Lots of particulate floating in the air. Startled an owl…
I am interested in getting 2 variations of this light. I don’t have a favorite tint or kelvin number. I like icy cold blue. I like slightly warm. I like anything in between. I would enjoy having a very flat neutral non artifact or hot spot flood for photographing products. Not sure what type of emitter/optic combo would best fulfill that need… The other could be anything. Eager to hear about the flavor of these 5 choices and why any of you are passionate about a certain variety.
For photography I’d go with high cri. Tint and Temp can easily be adjusted. For pure even flood that covers the whole frame then a mule (no optics or reflector) is the way to go. I’m not sure how difficult or easy it is to remove the bezel and optics from this light though, or if the mcpcb is screwed down or just pressed by the optics (maybe TK can answer this). I have used a d4 for photography and I find that even the very floody Carclo 10623 optics produces an uneven light so I remove the optics for this purpose.
I’m not sure how difficult or easy it is to remove the bezel and optics from this light though… (maybe TK can answer this)
The prototype I have seems to use press-fit retaining rings for the lens and the button, so I haven’t been able to take the head apart at all.
This makes me a little bit sad. Press fitted bezels are a PITA to work with. I’d still buy this light for its form and UI (thanks to TK). But hopefully the final version is more mod friendly.
I have used a d4 for photography and I find that even the very floody Carclo 10623 optics produces an uneven light so I remove the optics for this purpose.
That’s the reason why I’m really looking forward to the FW3A with LH351D, based on Toykepper’s comment it should be nice for close range work or photography :
ToyKeeper wrote:
When I voted in the poll, I hadn’t actually tried LH351D emitters. It sounded really nice from what I had heard though, so I ranked it second. But after trying it (LH351D 5000K 80CRI) in person, in both 10511 and 10507 optics, I would rank it last. I don’t like the beam with either of the optics. With 10511 it’s smooth but way too floody. With 10507 it’s less floody but the beam looks a lot like a zoomie in wide mode — a flat(ish) wide circle with fairly sharp and colorful edges, and virtually no spill.
5000 lumens? Wow! That’s quite a powerhouse on your forehead. I hope all the mass in the head soaks up a lot of heat.
I’d bet that a few of my night mountain biking friends would appreciate that kind of power. They ride year-round. It would be great in the winter with the cold keeping the light from stepping down too quickly.
If you’re looking for a right angle light, this one looks to be top of the heap. Even without the HI leds, 2500 lumens is nothing to sneeze at.
I am interested too.
My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547
Interested
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interested
Very interested. Anybody with experiece with the sst20 cri95? How does it compare to the 219b or 219c at 4000k?
Beam profile is throw-ish in optics. Broad but focused hotspot, very subtle cool band around edge of hotspot. Tint from factory will be slightly green from factory, but with a minus green filter it’s perfection. Deep red rendering is off the charts, better than 219B R9080. Even without the minus green filter, wood tones look great, but with a minus green filter, nothing does it better.
interested in this….
and this, except I’ll mount the solar panel on the underside of the brim so the PL47 can power it’s own cooling.
Thanks. Might try those then. But I’ll probably also get one with 219b’s since I know I’d like it. Which minus green filter do you use? And would it be able to handle the heat from this light?
It’s the Lee Zircon 804. The Lee Zircon filters are designed to handle high heat from LEDs, so I think it should be fine. I haven’t had any fading issues yet.
Interested
Interested.
Interested.
Interested: sst20 cri95 or 219b or 219c at 4000k.
If an SST20 version is swapped out for XP-L HI’s would it then be close to 5000 lumens, or is there a limit set in the firmware for the SST’s?
Interested.
why not just order one of the XPL Hi versions – :http://www.ff-light.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=54&tr...
Strange choose of emitters.
The only floody version is very specific and unefficient 219B. 95+ cri or ~65 ,R9<<0.
BTW Is magnet removable?
Is driver dimensions known?
Interested.
It’s not going to stay at 5000 lumens for long. It’ll get too hot, and ramp down to keep itself from overheating. Even cold winter air is probably not enough to keep it at full power; it probably would need water cooling for that.
Also, I haven’t done thermal testing on it. I’m not sure yet how exactly it responds to full power, because the prototype I have uses a really thin MCPCB shelf. This was fixed in the production version, but I haven’t tested one of those. There’s also an issue with reflashing the driver while it’s still inside the host, so I don’t have a way to reflash an assembled light yet. So thermal response is currently unknown. It should drop to half power when hot, then use PID to regulate to a sustainable level.
Interested…of course…I really don’t have a use for it……
I’ll have to find one….KB1428 “Live Life WOT”
Hmmm. Come to think of it, I think with the pl47 form factor maybe FF or somebody here can design a cable adapter and a headband of some sorts. One where you can screw in the head and the tube on the opposite ends of the cable. With headlamp mode the head is in your forehead and the battery at the back of your head (or helmet). I think this would make this a more balanced headlamp especially with a 21700 battery. And reading the BLF headlamp posts including diy headlamp projects it seems a lot of people (including myself) want this type of headlamp. They’re also quite expensive when buying from named brands and specialized (think caving) stores.
Because it’s not offered in 4000K.
Interested.
nice to see will run of 18650 as well!
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Can someone break down the typical uses and characteristics of these 5 different LED choices?
I have a NITECORE HC33 with the CREE XHP35 HD in whatever white tint it comes in and a THRUNITE TH30 with the CREE XHP70.2 LED in Cool White. The THRUNITE seems yellowish to me and pretty floody. The NITECORE is more of what I would call white and throws way more with a floody spill. I was wearing both last night in the grape vineyard, both on MAX at the same time and it was great! I could see 100 yards forward and about 30 yards to each side in vivid detail. Those purple grapes just popped. Had a C8 XM-L2 Cool with me as well, and when I turned that on I could see 300 yards forward, about 200 yards extremely well. Found four cats wondering what the heck I was doing. Lots of particulate floating in the air. Startled an owl…
I am interested in getting 2 variations of this light. I don’t have a favorite tint or kelvin number. I like icy cold blue. I like slightly warm. I like anything in between. I would enjoy having a very flat neutral non artifact or hot spot flood for photographing products. Not sure what type of emitter/optic combo would best fulfill that need… The other could be anything. Eager to hear about the flavor of these 5 choices and why any of you are passionate about a certain variety.
2 lights up!
Interested
For photography I’d go with high cri. Tint and Temp can easily be adjusted. For pure even flood that covers the whole frame then a mule (no optics or reflector) is the way to go. I’m not sure how difficult or easy it is to remove the bezel and optics from this light though, or if the mcpcb is screwed down or just pressed by the optics (maybe TK can answer this). I have used a d4 for photography and I find that even the very floody Carclo 10623 optics produces an uneven light so I remove the optics for this purpose.
The prototype I have seems to use press-fit retaining rings for the lens and the button, so I haven’t been able to take the head apart at all.
This makes me a little bit sad. Press fitted bezels are a PITA to work with. I’d still buy this light for its form and UI (thanks to TK). But hopefully the final version is more mod friendly.
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