TK's Emisar D18 review -- 3x18650 photon grenade

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contactcr
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That is crazy looking. Also terrifying cause I have huge trees within like 30ft of my house

DB Custom
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Yeah, and we are within an hour of seeing whether or not we get softball sized hail accompanied by tornado’s. Damaging wind, flooding rain, a line of supercells is wreaking havoc across Texas as I write this and of course, it’s heading right at us…

idleprocess
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DB Custom wrote:
With the individual TIR’s virtually covering the entire MCPCB, where would the auxillary LED’s go?


Looking at these images from TK, there is a cover plate that holds the TIR’s in the correct position and eliminates all gaps (as seen previously in the M43), literally covering the MCPCB in it’s entirety. So where would an aux LED be seen? Nowhere up top for sure. Not without a lot of alteration…

An enterprising soul could produce an alternate topmost PCB with aux LEDs, but those would certainly have to shine through said PCB somehow since it appears to be effectively flush with the lens.

SKV89
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I measured my XP-L HI 4000k at 10,600 lumens at 1s with my TA lumen sphere calibrated with Maukka lights using VTC5D fresh off the charger. A bit disappointed with the output since the 7-emitter E07 makes 7,000 lumens at 1s, but the tint is very nice. The top of ramp is set the same as turbo so double click from off takes it directly to turbo. Typical Anduril lights sets the top of ramp at about 50% or so of turbo.

Does anyone else have the XP-L Hi version? I’m curious is the XP-L HI version dimmer than the SST-20 version. My M43 with XP-L HI 5D was 1,000 lumens lower than the XP-G2 5D version.

EDIT: I just realize one of the batteries was a Sofirn 2200mah and not the VTC5D. I remeasured using 3x VTC5D and got 12,400 lumens at 1s. Better but still less than what I expected.

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idleprocess wrote:
DB Custom wrote:
With the individual TIR’s virtually covering the entire MCPCB, where would the auxillary LED’s go?


Looking at these images from TK, there is a cover plate that holds the TIR’s in the correct position and eliminates all gaps (as seen previously in the M43), literally covering the MCPCB in it’s entirety. So where would an aux LED be seen? Nowhere up top for sure. Not without a lot of alteration…

An enterprising soul could produce an alternate topmost PCB with aux LEDs, but those would certainly have to shine through said PCB somehow since it appears to be effectively flush with the lens.

What about removing the TIR blackout cups and putting the aux leds next to them?

maukka
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Really like the 3000K candle mode. Compared to an HDS, which only has 4 distinct levels, Anduril is very authentic.

DB Custom
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The “blackout cups” are actually holders with 2 pins in the base that match 2 holes in the emitter shelf. Remove the holder and the TIR would be out of position and loose.

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SKV89, is there a typo in here? “ I measured my XP-L HI 4000k at 1,060 lumens at 1s with my TA lumen sphere calibrated with Maukka lights using VTC5D fresh off the charger. A bit disappointed with the output since the 7-emitter E07 makes 7,000 lumens at 1s” Did you mean to say 10,060 lumens?

SKV89
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DB Custom wrote:
SKV89, is there a typo in here? “ I measured my XP-L HI 4000k at 1,060 lumens at 1s with my TA lumen sphere calibrated with Maukka lights using VTC5D fresh off the charger. A bit disappointed with the output since the 7-emitter E07 makes 7,000 lumens at 1s” Did you mean to say 10,060 lumens?

Yes good catch, it is 10,600 lumens

DB Custom
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Ok, I’ve been wondering… the shelf that the driver sits on is anodized, no ground current flows through the contact between driver and shelf so all ground flow must come through the two hold down screws which are SS it appears. So how much current gain could come in by using brass screws? Or by cleaning the shelf of the ano? (AND using brass screws?) [yes, I know, the battery tube carries ground through the opposite side, but still, it would improve if ano were removed and brass screws used, for the spring MCPCB in the tail section as well. Wink ]

Arsenio Hall, things that make ya go Hmmmmmm….. Wink

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So yes, that’s what I’m saying, use brass screws to hold down that robust copper spring board and bypass those springs, watch this puppy come ALIVE! Big Smile

SKV89
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Dale did you order one? I would be very interested to see what you do to increase current and output. Big Smile

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SKV89 wrote:
I measured my XP-L HI 4000k at 10,600 lumens at 1s with my TA lumen sphere calibrated with Maukka lights using VTC5D fresh off the charger. A bit disappointed with the output since the 7-emitter E07 makes 7,000 lumens at 1s, but the tint is very nice. The top of ramp is set the same as turbo so double click from off takes it directly to turbo. Typical Anduril lights sets the top of ramp at about 50% or so of turbo.

Does anyone else have the XP-L Hi version? I’m curious is the XP-L HI version dimmer than the SST-20 version. My M43 with XP-L HI 5D was 1,000 lumens lower than the XP-G2 5D version.

Where did you purchase your xplhi version?

SKV89
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Bought from Hank. Just email him for custom emitter options.

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I haven’t ordered one, yet… my friend got his a couple of days ago and turned it around to come to me for some tender loving care. New emitters sit here waiting and I’ll have to play it by ear on the rest. Big Smile He’s into mega lumens, wants the most out of it I can squeeze, so that’s what I aim to do. Should be here tomorrow I think…

SKV89
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Looking forward to what you can do with it. I was hoping for 15k-18k lumens at turn-on since my E07 with only 7 of the same emitter makes 7k lumens.

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SKV89, bypass the springs in the tail and see what that does, should make a noticeable improvement. Simple enough to do, won’t take but a few minutes.

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maukka wrote:
Really like the 3000K candle mode. Compared to an HDS, which only has 4 distinct levels, Anduril is very authentic.

I also think candle mode is great (I gel my Anduril ROT66 for warmth), but do you find it a bit too fast, or perhaps just too “flickery”?

I think it would be better if it were maybe 2/3 the average frequency, although perhaps Toykeeper has further tweaked the rate since the build I have.

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I’ve been using the candlelight modes in Anduril for quite a while now, with the physical issues I have I find comfort in a long hot bath… I set up 2 or 3 lights with Anduril in Candlelight and put some jazz on my Harmon Kardon Onyx 4’s and I’m good to go! Big Smile Laying there in the steaming water with my eyes closed the ambient light I sense is just exacly like having several candles burning, love it! Even in Ham’r, the adjustability is just fantastic and the realism I find best almost all the way dim. Brighter loses the depth of field of the flicker to me. Cranked down low the absolute dim level is very convincing, like a breeze is about to blow out the flame. I use this quite often, just this morning actually. Smile

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SKV89 wrote:
DB Custom wrote:
SKV89, is there a typo in here? “ I measured my XP-L HI 4000k at 1,060 lumens at 1s with my TA lumen sphere calibrated with Maukka lights using VTC5D fresh off the charger. A bit disappointed with the output since the 7-emitter E07 makes 7,000 lumens at 1s” Did you mean to say 10,060 lumens?

Yes good catch, it is 10,600 lumens

So you have the XP-L Hi 4000k D18 and it was just under 11k lumens?

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DB Custom wrote:
I’ve been using the candlelight modes in Anduril for quite a while now, with the physical issues I have I find comfort in a long hot bath… I set up 2 or 3 lights with Anduril in Candlelight and put some jazz on my Harmon Kardon Onyx 4’s and I’m good to go! Big Smile Laying there in the steaming water with my eyes closed the ambient light I sense is just exacly like having several candles burning, love it! Even in Ham’r, the adjustability is just fantastic and the realism I find best almost all the way dim. Brighter loses the depth of field of the flicker to me. Cranked down low the absolute dim level is very convincing, like a breeze is about to blow out the flame. I use this quite often, just this morning actually. Smile

I’ve got that HK Onyx 4, man does that bass hit!

“Electricity is really just organized lightning”
― George Carlin

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<—- all about dat bass, bout dat bass, bout dat bass ….

and lumens. Big Smile

I found the Onyx 4 on sale and loved it, talked my wife into getting me a second one for Christmas. Paired up, sweet stuff right there! She dropped her Pixel and shattered the screen so I got her the new Pixel 3, use the old one as a glorified MP-3 player to run the Onyx 4 duo. Works like a charm! [in an odd twist, I put a screen protector on it AFTER it was broke to keep all the pieces in the frame]

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Toykeeper’s “RPP Test” doesn’t make sense to me. Reversing the multimeter leads is not the same as putting the batteries in backwards:

From Toykeeper’s first post:

Reverse polarity protection (my DMM measured 0.00A with the leads connected backward, so RPP seems to work)

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So this morning I went coffee free to modify my friends light. Took almost 3 hours to change the SST-20’s to Samsung LH351D W6 5000K emitters. But alas, the tiny Lisa optics don’t fit over the LH351D dome so I sliced all 18 emitters. Only to find out that, sliced, these actually lose lumens over the original set up. Nice tint, still a pretty tight hotspot (although larger than the 20’s) but still hot quick. Disappointing for all the effort. Beautiful now in candlelight mode and the color goes well with the gold host.

I tried.

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funkychateau wrote:
Toykeeper’s “RPP Test” doesn’t make sense to me. Reversing the multimeter leads is not the same as putting the batteries in backwards.

Toykeeper wrote:
Reverse polarity protection (my DMM measured 0.00A with the leads connected backward, so RPP seems to work)

She tested current flow. You put the DMM probes on the driver pos and neg. Power will flow one way, reverse the probes and power does not flow.

Maybe you can explain exactly why it does not make sense. Maybe there is an element I’m missing.

Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights

Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.

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Tixx wrote:
SKV89 wrote:
DB Custom wrote:
SKV89, is there a typo in here? “ I measured my XP-L HI 4000k at 1,060 lumens at 1s with my TA lumen sphere calibrated with Maukka lights using VTC5D fresh off the charger. A bit disappointed with the output since the 7-emitter E07 makes 7,000 lumens at 1s” Did you mean to say 10,060 lumens?

Yes good catch, it is 10,600 lumens

So you have the XP-L Hi 4000k D18 and it was just under 11k lumens?

All stock d18 xpl hi 5000k and 6500k are hitting about 13000 lumen.. sst20 6500k is hitting 14000 lumen..

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SKV89 wrote:
I measured my XP-L HI 4000k at … 12,400 lumens at 1s. Better but still less than what I expected.

The spec says 10,000 lm for the 3000K and 4000K version. Yours appears to be brighter than expected.

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maukka wrote:
Really like the 3000K candle mode. Compared to an HDS, which only has 4 distinct levels, Anduril is very authentic.


Thanks for graphing this! I’ve been wanting to measure it to get an actual graph, but I don’t have anything which samples fast enough.

The D18’s candle mode is a bit higher amplitude than it was intended to be though. I calibrated the settings for a FET+1 driver like a Q8, with 65 levels on the +1 portion… but the D18 has only 50 levels on its +1 part of the ramp. So its ups and downs span a wider brightness range than it would on a Q8.

At some point, I really need to make the amplitude scale per build target, so it’ll be pretty much the same on all lights. Or maybe make the parameters editable real-time in the firmware. But it hasn’t been a priority. There’s a lot of other stuff to do first.

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Eleziel wrote:
idleprocess wrote:
DB Custom wrote:
With the individual TIR’s virtually covering the entire MCPCB, where would the auxillary LED’s go?


Looking at these images from TK, there is a cover plate that holds the TIR’s in the correct position and eliminates all gaps (as seen previously in the M43), literally covering the MCPCB in it’s entirety. So where would an aux LED be seen? Nowhere up top for sure. Not without a lot of alteration…

An enterprising soul could produce an alternate topmost PCB with aux LEDs, but those would certainly have to shine through said PCB somehow since it appears to be effectively flush with the lens.

What about removing the TIR blackout cups and putting the aux leds next to them?


Side-firing LEDs thru strategic gaps designed into the replacement TIR holder PCB are a possibility although that would likely be a dimmer glow than is desired – assuming they’re available in desirable colors / efficiencies.
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DB Custom wrote:
I’ve been wondering… the shelf that the driver sits on is anodized, no ground current flows through the contact between driver and shelf so all ground flow must come through the two hold down screws which are SS it appears. So how much current gain could come in by using brass screws? Or by cleaning the shelf of the ano? (AND using brass screws?) [yes, I know, the battery tube carries ground through the opposite side, but still, it would improve if ano were removed and brass screws used, for the spring MCPCB in the tail section as well. Wink

If it’s the tail PCB you’re talking about, I don’t think brass screws would help. It’s already using bare aluminum to bare copper, so the screws shouldn’t be a large factor:

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