Toykeeper’s “RPP Test” doesn’t make sense to me. Reversing the multimeter leads is not the same as putting the batteries in backwards:
From Toykeeper’s first post:
Reverse polarity protection (my DMM measured 0.00A with the leads connected backward, so RPP seems to work)
I connected a bench power supply to the light, with a DMM in the middle to measure current. Connected with forward polarity, everything worked normally. Connected with reverse polarity, I measured no current flow at all and the light wouldn’t respond. Connected forward again, it was still fine. No damage.
A DMM by itself can’t test this, but it wasn’t the main device involved. Connecting a power supply backward was the real test.
I also think candle mode is great (I gel my Anduril ROT66 for warmth), but do you find it a bit too fast, or perhaps just too “flickery”?
I think it would be better if it were maybe 2/3 the average frequency
Sometimes yes. Perhaps I used more flickery candles as a reference point. At first I thought I had made it vary too much, but when I compared it to actual candles it was actually less severe than some real ones.
There are a few things I’m not totally happy with in the algorithm. For one thing, it gets more subtle as the base brightness level is increased, so there’s hardly any point using it at brighter levels. Also, it doesn’t scale itself for each build target yet, so it varies based on the hardware used.
And I’d also like to make it smoother, but that has turned out to be trickier than I hoped. I have a function to set intermediate brightness levels in-between the 150 ramp steps, kinda like interpolating between pixels in an image… but sometimes it ends up looking good, sometimes it makes the animation lag, and sometimes it’s still just as choppy as the current method. Perhaps I’ll try again sometime.
Regardless, I still enjoy it in the bath. And that sounds nice right now. Plus, I’ve already posted way too many comments in a row. Biab.
Toykeeper’s “RPP Test” doesn’t make sense to me. Reversing the multimeter leads is not the same as putting the batteries in backwards:
From Toykeeper’s first post:
Reverse polarity protection (my DMM measured 0.00A with the leads connected backward, so RPP seems to work)
I connected a bench power supply to the light, with a DMM in the middle to measure current. Connected with forward polarity, everything worked normally. Connected with reverse polarity, I measured no current flow at all and the light wouldn’t respond. Connected forward again, it was still fine. No damage.
A DMM by itself can’t test this, but it wasn’t the main device involved. Connecting a power supply backward was the real test.
Okay, this makes a lot more sense.
—
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
I also think candle mode is great (I gel my Anduril ROT66 for warmth), but do you find it a bit too fast, or perhaps just too “flickery”?
I think it would be better if it were maybe 2/3 the average frequency
Sometimes yes. Perhaps I used more flickery candles as a reference point. At first I thought I had made it vary too much, but when I compared it to actual candles it was actually less severe than some real ones.
There are a few things I’m not totally happy with in the algorithm. For one thing, it gets more subtle as the base brightness level is increased, so there’s hardly any point using it at brighter levels. Also, it doesn’t scale itself for each build target yet, so it varies based on the hardware used.
And I’d also like to make it smoother, but that has turned out to be trickier than I hoped. I have a function to set intermediate brightness levels in-between the 150 ramp steps, kinda like interpolating between pixels in an image… but sometimes it ends up looking good, sometimes it makes the animation lag, and sometimes it’s still just as choppy as the current method. Perhaps I’ll try again sometime.
Regardless, I still enjoy it in the bath. And that sounds nice right now. Plus, I’ve already posted way too many comments in a row. Biab.
Interesting info, as always. I usually use mine at…well…the output level of a candle, so it sounds like I’m using the range where the flicker is most accentuated.
Regardless of whether further improvements end up getting made or not, even where the feature is now is really cool.
I really like Anduril’s Candlelight right down at the base setting, it has the most variability there and brightness is easily adjusted by adding more lights. I find that the use of at least 3 lights really makes for a realistic experience. Doesn’t matter what size or power level, I often use the SP-03, Q8 and Thorfire TK05, very different lights but the program makes it just not matter.
Thanks TK, again I think you are working too hard…
I measured my XP-L HI 4000k at … 12,400 lumens at 1s. Better but still less than what I expected.
The spec says 10,000 lm for the 3000K and 4000K version. Yours appears to be brighter than expected.
Spec says 10k lumens for the 95 CRISST-20 4000k but mine is the XP-L HI 4000k. XP-L HI is supposed to be brighter than even the 70 CRISST-20
XP-L HI is only better at like 3-4+ amps per LED. Especially V2 that you have. If you look at tests the SST-20 is pretty good at lower amps but flattens out sooner
I measured my XP-L HI 4000k at … 12,400 lumens at 1s. Better but still less than what I expected.
The spec says 10,000 lm for the 3000K and 4000K version. Yours appears to be brighter than expected.
Spec says 10k lumens for the 95 CRISST-20 4000k but mine is the XP-L HI 4000k. XP-L HI is supposed to be brighter than even the 70 CRISST-20
Skylumen measured around 13000 lumen for the xpl hi 6500k/5000k whatever device he is using.. i measured 14000 lumen for the sst20 6500k with th TA tube calibrated.
Someone can explain why sst20 is pushing higher lumen than xpl hi..
I measured my XP-L HI 4000k at … 12,400 lumens at 1s. Better but still less than what I expected.
The spec says 10,000 lm for the 3000K and 4000K version. Yours appears to be brighter than expected.
Spec says 10k lumens for the 95 CRISST-20 4000k but mine is the XP-L HI 4000k. XP-L HI is supposed to be brighter than even the 70 CRISST-20
Skylumen measured around 13000 lumen for the xpl hi 6500k/5000k whatever device he is using.. i measured 14000 lumen for the sst20 6500k with th TA tube calibrated.
Someone can explain why sst20 is pushing higher lumen than xpl hi..
In general these are close because SST-20 has lower Vf – therefore it’s driven higher. I’m not sure but I think SST-20 output shouldn’t be higher. Explanation? Different sphere, that difference is well within the error margin.
Just look at the datasheets for this low of current. SST-20 L3/L4 bin is better than XP-L HI until somewhere between 2A and 3A. I think it's a safe bet this light isn't pulling 54A for 3A per emitter. Not to mention the LISA optics do not show any support for XP-L HI so could be more losses there too.
I got my D18 Monday and I was sure when I first tested it that top of ramp was not the same as turbo. However, after playing with it more last night I couldn’t notice any difference in brightness double clicking at top of ramp. Need to investigate if the ceiling is too high or if I managed to find some bug. Battery charge level should be 4.0+ but I will test that too. Is there some firmware version that was delivered with top of ramp = turbo?
As mentioned in another thread, on smooth ramp mode, my ‘delivered today’ D18 SST-20 4000K with brand new button top VTC6 batteries also showed no visual difference between top of ramp and turbo. However, on stepped ramped mode, there was a noticeable difference between top of ramp and turbo. I like to have smooth ramp go from moonlight all the way to turbo, anyway, so i configured that way afterward, to ensure it was deftinely operating that way. Everything else seems sweet. Amazing light. Smaller than expected. First light with Anduril, so lightning mode and candle mode are pretty neat to play with, too. Also, it fits my Maxpedition Remora EDC bag nicely!
So do I click 50 or 51 times to set ceiling to max regulated?
51 times.
The first click is the highest level, 150. Second click is the second-highest, 149. And so on.
It may seem like it’s off by one, since level 140 of 150 is 11 clicks… but it’s because otherwise there would be no way to get the highest level. It’s like how the “first century” is from 0 to 99, the second century was 100 to 199, and the twentieth century is from 1900 to 1999.
Does anyone know which tint binning the 4000K SST-20’s Hanks uses have? I’m thinking about ordering a D18 without leds and putting 18 FD2s from BlueSword in it but it would be funny if it appears Hank uses the FD2 bin.
—
virence.com Nichia E21A sw30+sw40 Wizard Pro ; Skilhunt H03 XP-E2 660nm ; Wizard Pro E21A 2000K ; S2+ E21A sw40 d220 ; Sofrin C01R 660nm, Mf01 Mini Nichia 219B sw35+sw40
D18 has FB4 and looks like this:
In my opinion, the color is really pretty and I do not see too much sense to fight for FD2. I will just add that the Duv 0.0010 does not change too much, because at 1000 Lm the measurement gave me the same value.
Its seems that there is a little mistake on this protrotype with the AUXLEDs colors order on the external ring. It looks better like on the inner ring when yellow is placed between green and red. Pretty sure you already noticed it but worth mentionning to be sure.
I connected a bench power supply to the light, with a DMM in the middle to measure current. Connected with forward polarity, everything worked normally. Connected with reverse polarity, I measured no current flow at all and the light wouldn’t respond. Connected forward again, it was still fine. No damage.
A DMM by itself can’t test this, but it wasn’t the main device involved. Connecting a power supply backward was the real test.
Thanks for testing this!
I’m quoting it and repeating it just in case anyone missed it. This is very useful information for others who might want to try a similar mod.
Sometimes yes. Perhaps I used more flickery candles as a reference point. At first I thought I had made it vary too much, but when I compared it to actual candles it was actually less severe than some real ones.
There are a few things I’m not totally happy with in the algorithm. For one thing, it gets more subtle as the base brightness level is increased, so there’s hardly any point using it at brighter levels. Also, it doesn’t scale itself for each build target yet, so it varies based on the hardware used.
And I’d also like to make it smoother, but that has turned out to be trickier than I hoped. I have a function to set intermediate brightness levels in-between the 150 ramp steps, kinda like interpolating between pixels in an image… but sometimes it ends up looking good, sometimes it makes the animation lag, and sometimes it’s still just as choppy as the current method. Perhaps I’ll try again sometime.
Regardless, I still enjoy it in the bath. And that sounds nice right now. Plus, I’ve already posted way too many comments in a row. Biab.
Okay, this makes a lot more sense.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
Interesting info, as always. I usually use mine at…well…the output level of a candle, so it sounds like I’m using the range where the flicker is most accentuated.
Regardless of whether further improvements end up getting made or not, even where the feature is now is really cool.
I really like Anduril’s Candlelight right down at the base setting, it has the most variability there and brightness is easily adjusted by adding more lights.
I find that the use of at least 3 lights really makes for a realistic experience. Doesn’t matter what size or power level, I often use the SP-03, Q8 and Thorfire TK05, very different lights but the program makes it just not matter.
Thanks TK, again I think you are working too hard…
Spec says 10k lumens for the 95 CRI SST-20 4000k but mine is the XP-L HI 4000k. XP-L HI is supposed to be brighter than even the 70 CRI SST-20
XP-L HI is only better at like 3-4+ amps per LED. Especially V2 that you have. If you look at tests the SST-20 is pretty good at lower amps but flattens out sooner
Skylumen measured around 13000 lumen for the xpl hi 6500k/5000k whatever device he is using.. i measured 14000 lumen for the sst20 6500k with th TA tube calibrated.
Someone can explain why sst20 is pushing higher lumen than xpl hi..
In general these are close because SST-20 has lower Vf – therefore it’s driven higher. I’m not sure but I think SST-20 output shouldn’t be higher. Explanation? Different sphere, that difference is well within the error margin.
Different cells will matter as well.
Just look at the datasheets for this low of current. SST-20 L3/L4 bin is better than XP-L HI until somewhere between 2A and 3A. I think it's a safe bet this light isn't pulling 54A for 3A per emitter. Not to mention the LISA optics do not show any support for XP-L HI so could be more losses there too.
XP-L HI V2 (@ 1.5A = ~135% = 540) (@ 2A = ~170% = 680) (@ 3A = ~230% = 920)
SST-20 L3 (@ 1.5A = 100% = 560) (@ 2A = ~122% = 683) (@ 3A = ~150% = 840)
SST-20 L4 (@ 1.5A = 100% = 585) (@ 2A = ~122% = 714) (@ 3A = ~150% = 878)
https://download.luminus.com/datasheets/Luminus_SST-20-WxS_Datasheet.pdf
https://www.cree.com/led-components/media/documents/ds-XPL.pdf
You’re probably right.
It’s a bad habit.
is there any chance to insert some strong and thin magnet to the tail? or am i an ignorant?
It would work, but you’d need a very strong one.
My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547
thanks for your quick answer. once i get the d18 i will measure the diameter and look for a magnet
Subbed
I got my D18 Monday and I was sure when I first tested it that top of ramp was not the same as turbo. However, after playing with it more last night I couldn’t notice any difference in brightness double clicking at top of ramp. Need to investigate if the ceiling is too high or if I managed to find some bug. Battery charge level should be 4.0+ but I will test that too. Is there some firmware version that was delivered with top of ramp = turbo?
Mine was set to top-of-ramp = turbo as delivered. I bumped the top-of-ramp down by about 15-20 clicks.
As mentioned in another thread, on smooth ramp mode, my ‘delivered today’ D18 SST-20 4000K with brand new button top VTC6 batteries also showed no visual difference between top of ramp and turbo. However, on stepped ramped mode, there was a noticeable difference between top of ramp and turbo. I like to have smooth ramp go from moonlight all the way to turbo, anyway, so i configured that way afterward, to ensure it was deftinely operating that way. Everything else seems sweet. Amazing light. Smaller than expected. First light with Anduril, so lightning mode and candle mode are pretty neat to play with, too. Also, it fits my Maxpedition Remora EDC bag nicely!
https://imgur.com/a/RbNDcPb
So do I click 50 or 51 times to set ceiling to max regulated?
51 times.
The first click is the highest level, 150. Second click is the second-highest, 149. And so on.
It may seem like it’s off by one, since level 140 of 150 is 11 clicks… but it’s because otherwise there would be no way to get the highest level. It’s like how the “first century” is from 0 to 99, the second century was 100 to 199, and the twentieth century is from 1900 to 1999.
Does anyone know which tint binning the 4000K SST-20’s Hanks uses have? I’m thinking about ordering a D18 without leds and putting 18 FD2s from BlueSword in it but it would be funny if it appears Hank uses the FD2 bin.
virence.com Nichia E21A sw30+sw40 Wizard Pro ; Skilhunt H03 XP-E2 660nm ; Wizard Pro E21A 2000K ; S2+ E21A sw40 d220 ; Sofrin C01R 660nm, Mf01 Mini Nichia 219B sw35+sw40
Judging by the ones he is selling for parts it should be FB4 bin. https://intl-outdoor.com/luminus-sst20-bare-led-p-936.html
D18 has FB4 and looks like this:
In my opinion, the color is really pretty and I do not see too much sense to fight for FD2. I will just add that the Duv 0.0010 does not change too much, because at 1000 Lm the measurement gave me the same value.
Click on: ANSI WHITE
Click on: MY COLLECTION
Click on: Q8, D4, D4S, D18, K1, FW3A, SDmini, Mini AAA, TIP, M43, H1, H03, TC20, TN40S, TN42, V6, H600Fw, SC600w, SC64w
All the testing seems to indicate the SST-20 in the D18 is more inline with the FD2 than FB4 tint. You should email Hank directly.
Aux board successfully tested
Prototype had an error so the LVP chip does not work without rewiring
[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, MF02, S42, K01, TI3A / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Niwalker BK-FA30S / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp
[Mods] Skilhunt H03 short / Klarus XT11GT, XT12GTS / Zebralight SC50+ / Imalent DM21TW / colorful anodisation
[Sale]
Drivers: overview of sizes and types
DD+AMC based drivers Anduril or Bistro OTSM 12-24mm, S42, 24-30mm L6, Q8, MF01(S), MT03, TN42
Anduril or Bistro 8A buck driver for 20-30mm, MF01/02/04, TN40/42, Lumintop GT, MT09R
UVC and UVC+UVA drivers
programming key
Remote switch tail DD board with FET
Aux boards:
Emisar D1, D1S, D4, D4S, D18, Lumintop FW3A, Fireflies ROT66, Astrolux MF01, Tail boards like S2+
Looks a lot different above the TIRs. Pretty cool
Sweet!
Its seems that there is a little mistake on this protrotype with the AUX LEDs colors order on the external ring. It looks better like on the inner ring when yellow is placed between green and red. Pretty sure you already noticed it but worth mentionning to be sure.
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