TK's Emisar D4V2 review

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SammysHP
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You won’t breath lead when soldering. All the fumes are from the flux (and THAT is really nasty stuff).

tenohfive
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Couple of questions from the uninitiated:

Batteries – I’ve got some 30Q’s that I’ll use if I stick with the full size tube, but I’m not sure on what 18350’s to go with if I go down that route.

And when ordering I added the AR coated glass without really knowing why – I just figured that at $2.50 it was worth buying and seeing if it was useful later. But I’ve no idea what it does or whether or not it’s worth replacing. Was it worth getting?

lazerEagle
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Keepower 18350 are good if you can source them.

The original lens is AR coated so you just ordered a spare lens Smile

- the best way to predict the future is to create it -

tenohfive
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lazerEagle wrote:
Keepower 18350 are good if you can source them.

The original lens is AR coated so you just ordered a spare lens Smile

One of my regular suppliers has the button top Keepower 1200mah IMR, will the button top be an issue with the D4V2?

lazerEagle
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Mine are flat. Not sure someone else might chime in?

- the best way to predict the future is to create it -

MattSPL
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I got my D4V2 a couple of weeks ago. Great light Smile

Just a question on adjusting the temperature limit. How do I toggle between setting the temperature limit and setting the current temperature after entering thermal config mode?

Thanks

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Current temperature is menu item #1. Temperature limit is menu item #2.

It’s recommended to not bother with that menu at all though. Just let the light settle to room temperature and do a factory reset. (loosen tail, hold button, tighten tail, hold button for ~4s until it does a bright flash) That should auto-calibrate the sensor and set the limit to a reasonably safe temperature.

The menu isn’t really necessary unless you want to raise the temperature limit.

richbuff
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ToyKeeper wrote:
Current temperature is menu item #1. Temperature limit is menu item #2. It's recommended to not bother with that menu at all though. Just let the light settle to room temperature and do a factory reset. (loosen tail, hold button, tighten tail, hold button for ~4s until it does a bright flash) That should auto-calibrate the sensor and set the limit to a reasonably safe temperature. The menu isn't really necessary unless you want to raise the temperature limit.
"let the light settle to room temperature"

Thank you for this tip. Question: What if I do the factory reset while the light is hot? And conversely... ... ... What if I do the factory reset while the light is at frigid temperature?  Which one of these two scenarios will raise the temperature limit?

2 Cor 5:6-8

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The factory reset tells the light what temperature is “normal”. It then sets the limit somewhere above that, like a couple dozen degrees C higher. On most lights, it’s 24 C higher… because “room temperature” is assumed to be 21 C and the default limit for most lights is 45 C.

So if you want a higher limit without using a menu, warm it up a little before the factory reset.

Cemoi
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Hi all,

Thanks TK for this review and for your wonderful UI. I enjoy very much my brand new Emisar D4v2 (with Nichia E21A).

I have played with the Aux LEDs, found this feature very nice but I noticed that:

  1. The red is much dimmer than all other colors. How come?
  2. I dont' understand the "Volts" function as described in TK's diagram. When I select it (releasing the switch during the next pattern after "Rainbow"), the LEDs are blue. How is this battery check function supposed to work?
  3. I get different colors for the same color selection, according to the brightness level selected, for a few colors only. Example: if I select yellow (almost orange in fact) when the brightness is set to High, when I turn the brightness to Low (3 times 3 clicks) the LEDs are dim green, instead of dim yellow. This happens for yellow-orange, cyan, and a strange color which is supposed to be white in TK's diagram, but is more a light rosish orange. For all these three colors in High mode, the LEDs are green if set to Low mode.

OTOH, High blue, red, green and violet stay the same if turned to Low.

I can see this (faulty?) behavior when circling through all colors in Low mode by keeping the switch depressed after a 3H: the green shows up once shortly (corresponding to the High "not-so-white"), then shows up again after red and stays on longer because it replaces the expected yellow-green-cyan sequence.

Do you folks see the same behavior on your own light(s)?

Ultrafire C3 2AA / Nitecore LR10 / Manker E03H / Fenix HL10 / Zebralight H501R + H51W / DQG Hobi / Astrolux M01 / CooYoo Quantum Ti (lost) / BlackWater Kite Al / Emisar D4v2 (Nichia E21A)

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In low mode the output of the red LED is very low. The low level is defined by the hardware of the microcontroller and cannot be adjusted like the normal/high level. The strange color pattern you see is a consequence of this because red is much darker than the other colors.

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I love that the red is so dim on low. It’s the only color that I can use when I have my light on my bedside table. Every other aux light color is too bright once my eyes have adjusted to the dark.

That’s why I’m wondering about red switch LEDs…anybody have one yet? I’m really curious about how bright they are.

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G.P. wrote:
I love that the red is so dim on low. It’s the only color that I can use when I have my light on my bedside table….

same here, but that’s due to my sleeping partner who is ultra sensitive to light

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Cemoi
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G.P. wrote:
I love that the red is so dim on low. It’s the only color that I can use when I have my light on my bedside table. Every other aux light color is too bright once my eyes have adjusted to the dark.
Even if you don't stare directly at them? I have my D4v2 tailstand on my bedside table so that the dim LEDs allow me to easily find and grab it, but I am absolutely not dazzled whatever the color, unless I point the light towards my face.

Re. the unavalaible colors at Low setting, I feel sorry because Cyan and Yellow are my favorite colors, but when set to dim they turn to Green. And leaving them on High is way too bright to have on a bedside table.

Ultrafire C3 2AA / Nitecore LR10 / Manker E03H / Fenix HL10 / Zebralight H501R + H51W / DQG Hobi / Astrolux M01 / CooYoo Quantum Ti (lost) / BlackWater Kite Al / Emisar D4v2 (Nichia E21A)

G.P.
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Cemoi wrote:

G.P. wrote:
I love that the red is so dim on low. It’s the only color that I can use when I have my light on my bedside table. Every other aux light color is too bright once my eyes have adjusted to the dark.
Even if you don’t stare directly at them? I have my D4v2 tailstand on my bedside table so that the dim LEDs allow me to easily find and grab it, but I am absolutely not dazzled whatever the color, unless I point the light towards my face.

Re. the unavalaible colors at Low setting, I feel sorry because Cyan and Yellow are my favorite colors, but when set to dim they turn to Green. And leaving them on High is way too bright to have on a bedside table.


All colors of aux LEDs, except for red, will light up my whole room enough to get around. They will visibly light up the ceiling when tail standing on low. On my Ti versions with the lighted side switch’s I have to put the switch face down on the bedside table, or they will illuminate the room enough to bug me as well. I even ordered the warm version of the switch, which was better, but still too bright for sleeping once my eyes adjust. Red light is known to be the best for not interrupting sleep. That’s why most digital alarm clocks have a red display.
Garik F
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I got D4V2 with KR4 driver and can hear squeaking sound when FET is in use (constant or with strobes or lightning mode), wondering is it normal?

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G.P. wrote:
Cemoi wrote:

G.P. wrote:
I love that the red is so dim on low. It’s the only color that I can use when I have my light on my bedside table. Every other aux light color is too bright once my eyes have adjusted to the dark.
Even if you don’t stare directly at them? I have my D4v2 tailstand on my bedside table so that the dim LEDs allow me to easily find and grab it, but I am absolutely not dazzled whatever the color, unless I point the light towards my face.

Re. the unavalaible colors at Low setting, I feel sorry because Cyan and Yellow are my favorite colors, but when set to dim they turn to Green. And leaving them on High is way too bright to have on a bedside table.

All colors of aux LEDs, except for red, will light up my whole room enough to get around. They will visibly light up the ceiling when tail standing on low. On my Ti versions with the lighted side switch’s I have to put the switch face down on the bedside table, or they will illuminate the room enough to bug me as well. I even ordered the warm version of the switch, which was better, but still too bright for sleeping once my eyes adjust. Red light is known to be the best for not interrupting sleep. That’s why most digital alarm clocks have a red display.

100% agree with this, I have to make sure there aren’t even any indicator lights on electronics shining when I go to bed or it lights up my whole room and I can’t sleep. Strangely, moon or artificial light outside rarely bothers me unless very bright.

Garik F
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I guess my question has been asked million times before here, but I will ask anyway. What color temperature should I choose for the XPL-HI? 4000K or 5000K? Which one has the best tint? Which one looks «brighter»?

Almost all of my flashlights are 4000K and many are hi cri, but I don’t mind 5000K.

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Garik F wrote:
I guess my question has been asked million times before here, but I will ask anyway. What color temperature should I choose for the XPL-HI? 4000K or 5000K? Which one has the best tint? Which one looks «brighter»?

Almost all of my flashlights are 4000K and many are hi cri, but I don’t mind 5000K.


There is no best one. If there was Emisar would only make that one and people would only buy that one.
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I prefer the V2 5D here, which is 4000K. It's beam's tint is consistent, usually a slight rosy color, to me (important to note personal pref) it's about the best beam/tint combo out there.

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zoulas wrote:
Garik F wrote:
I guess my question has been asked million times before here, but I will ask anyway. What color temperature should I choose for the XPL-HI? 4000K or 5000K? Which one has the best tint? Which one looks «brighter»?

Almost all of my flashlights are 4000K and many are hi cri, but I don’t mind 5000K.


There is no best one. If there was Emisar would only make that one and people would only buy that one.

BEST ANSWER! Big Smile

Garik F
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zoulas wrote:
There is no best one. If there was Emisar would only make that one and people would only buy that one.
Tom E wrote:

I prefer the V2 5D here, which is 4000K. It’s beam’s tint is consistent, usually a slight rosy color, to me (important to note personal pref) it’s about the best beam/tint combo out there.

Thank you for your answers!

Still thinking, but I’m inclining to 4000K, not 5000K, even though they both not ho cri and I can go to “more bright” 5000K

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Garik F wrote:
zoulas wrote:
There is no best one. If there was Emisar would only make that one and people would only buy that one.
Tom E wrote:

I prefer the V2 5D here, which is 4000K. It’s beam’s tint is consistent, usually a slight rosy color, to me (important to note personal pref) it’s about the best beam/tint combo out there.

Thank you for your answers!

Still thinking, but I’m inclining to 4000K, not 5000K, even though they both not ho cri and I can go to “more bright” 5000K

The difference in brightness will be completely unnoticeable. The 5000K might seem a bit higher output since higher color temps are a bit harsher, but even on paper they’re extremely close in output and the 5000K won’t actually illuminate anything better.

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TK (or any owner) – that switch on the D4V2, can you describe it?

Is it similar to what Manker uses in the U1?
Theirs is a soft rubber dome (which can come loose),
over a beryllium/copper dome,
over a pair of contact pads.

If the dome does come off, the beryllium thing gets lost and the switch is done for
and because og Manker’s assembly, you cannot replace it, and probably could not find the right part.

How similar is it, to that?

wle.

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