First Impressions Nitecore EX10 Ti and EX11.2

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jon_slider
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MascaratumB wrote:
What a nice collection you have there jon_slider Wink
Great lights, congratulations !! Wink

thank you!:-)

Im very fortunate to have three of a kind
and the box has room for a few more lights

hodor
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I think that box should be used exclusively for more PD lights!

What else came in the box? Looks three times the size of my normal D10 box.

AmbientSix
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Someone needs an intervention lol. I had that many nitro rc airplanes at one point though, so I can’t really judge.

Eagletac D25C, Nitecore D10 R2, Extreme E3, EX11.2, TIP, and Tubes. Noctigon KR4.

jon_slider
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hodor wrote:
I think that box should be used exclusively for more PD lights!
OK, I will take Five D10 please.. lol

The box is full of foam, plus a lanyard

AmbientSix wrote:
Someone needs an intervention lol.

please NO!..

some of the lights you see in the box, are in transition to adoption

also true for my accumulation of three Winter Editions, two are modded for adoption to a loving home..
Im happy to keep them if there is no interest, but would be happier to buy more for distribution to people that will appreciate them.

it is not every day that a ramping light that can be modded to Nichia easily, comes along… get em while you can

Scallywag
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Nice collection Jon!
I did some heavy searching. CRX did a CuTi piston drive. Cereal Killer did some Anduril mods to D10s ( 1 , 2 , 3 ). I feel like I remember someone mounting a switch inside the spring of a light to make something with similar spirit to piston drive: and found it

jon_slider
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Public Service Announcement

Stop the Presses!

I have discovered a wart on my sweetheart, the morning after.

The 11.2 driver is unregulated, so the output drifts, sometimes just 20%, other times 50% or more, depends on temperature of the light, and how high an output level is being requested.

I only noticed this lumen drift because I have a light meter. It is not easy to see with naked eyes in actual use because our brain has a wide lumen range tolerance, and also we change lumens on target often, based on how far we hold the light from the target.

here is a more extreme drift example, way more than 100%

EX11.2 using CR123 shows regulated output

I only recommend buying 11.2 versions if you intend to use Primary cells

By contrast the 10.0 driver has rock steady output regulation on both CR123 and 16340 (LiIon is not brighter than Primary). I strongly prefer the regulated 10.0 driver.

It was a fun ride Smile
Looks like Ive got a pile of lights to love..

First world problems.

AmbientSix
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So is this just above 3v then? I wanted to mod the d10 that I lost so now I guess I will mod the ex11 driver (and an xp-l 4000K swap). It would be interesting to see if I can fit a tiny buck driver that could deliver 1-2A cc and just PWM it. It’s not a lot of current but I want a butter smooth ramping task light. Should be more than bright enough.

Eagletac D25C, Nitecore D10 R2, Extreme E3, EX11.2, TIP, and Tubes. Noctigon KR4.

jon_slider
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AmbientSix wrote:
So is this just above 3v then?

yes
I believe the drifting only happens above 3.2 volts (as with LiIon)

the EX11.2 works great on CR123.. very stable, no weird drifting

here is another reason to prefer CR123 over 16340 in 11.2 drivers
avoiding sudden darkness:

I ran a 16340 down until protection tripped
that happened when the max output had decreased to 110 lumens (max was 225 lumens w an sw30), and the protection in the battery tripped at 3.2 volts, creating sudden darkness..

A CR123 is the right “Octane” fuel for the 11.2 driver

AmbientSix
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For short use it’s probably not a big deal. But, if you want it to be more stable and still use a rechargable Tenergy makes a 3v cell. I just tried one, works fine but obviously not as bright. I had been using them in my Extreme. Which I am now thinking of selling lol. But that light does have the potential to be a 16340 pocket rocket, a lot more body for cooling. I just don’t like the tactical look. I don’t go out hunting people on weekends.

Eagletac D25C, Nitecore D10 R2, Extreme E3, EX11.2, TIP, and Tubes. Noctigon KR4.

jon_slider
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AmbientSix wrote:
Tenergy makes a 3v cell. I just tried one, works fine but obviously not as bright

good call
also less bright on CR123
I dont need more than 100 lumens, on a light I use mostly indoors.

handy as a glovebox light too

pinkpanda3310
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I’ll take it ! How much for the box of lights Love

jon_slider wrote:

 

jon_slider
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pinkpanda3310 wrote:
Love
Beer

since I started hanging around here
you guys have cost me some cash

CRX
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I don’t know if I want to compliment that collection or build you a box with some sort of separators Big Smile
Nice testing Thumbs Up

jon_slider
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CRX wrote:
separators Big Smile

yes,
Protection is important

I wonder if these plastic bottle preforms could be found in a suitable size

CRX
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Slightly less elegant than I had in mind but still effective Big Smile

KawiBoy1428
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^ Disturbing ^

Big Smile

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AmbientSix
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You can always get a small bag of the expanding foam with some spacers between the lights. Close up a box and let the foam do its thing! I always save EPP foam, too. That is good stuff for cutting.

Eagletac D25C, Nitecore D10 R2, Extreme E3, EX11.2, TIP, and Tubes. Noctigon KR4.

Scallywag
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Mine came today. Nifty little bugger. Does fine with an Olight protected 16340 – haven’t even bothered popping my spare Vapcell in it. I do wish the shortcuts from off were to low and high, rather than strobe/SOS. Will just have to remember to turn it off in low. Then it’s easy.
I guess the next step is to see about flashing it and/or replacing the MCU.
Oh, and I found a short Jetbeam clip from a dead DDA10.

jon_slider
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Scallywag wrote:
Does fine with an Olight protected 16340

sadly, not in my experience,
they fit and they work, but
I only recommend primaries, for output stability
and
they are shorter than protected LiIon, so the button is easier to operate.

sometimes the light will not turn off after it is heated up by LiIon use, it goes to low instead
after that when I repeat the attempt to turn off, the light goes into lockout

I spend a lot of time fiddling with the button to get the light to function as requested when I use LiIon

the output is ridiculously unstable when the light warms up

those issues disappear when I do not use LiIon

max on LiIon is over 250 lumens with a 0.1 low,
max on Primaries is about 125 lumens, with a 0.01 low

.

fwiw, about LVP in LiIon cells:
Did a test to run down a protected 16340 in an EX11.2
When output had dropped to 100 lumens, the light went dark.
The protection tripped at 3.2volts

Did a test to run down a CR123 in EX11.2:
When the output had dropped to 50 lumens, the battery was at 2.5volts.
A few minutes later, output dropped to 5 lumens, at which point the battery had dropped to 2.2 volts.

would avoid using unprotected cells, unless you can monitor voltage or brightness, to prevent overdischarge

Scallywag
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jon_slider wrote:
Scallywag wrote:
Does fine with an Olight protected 16340

sadly, not in my experience,
they fit and they work, but
I only recommend primaries, for output stability
and
they are shorter than protected LiIon, so the button is easier to operate.

sometimes the light will not turn off after it is heated up by LiIon use, it goes to low instead
after that when I repeat the attempt to turn off, the light goes into lockout

I spend a lot of time fiddling with the button to get the light to function as requested when I use LiIon

the output is ridiculously unstable when the light warms up

those issues disappear when I do not use LiIon

max on LiIon is over 250 lumens with a 0.1 low,
max on Primaries is about 125 lumens, with a 0.01 low

.

fwiw, about LVP in LiIon cells:
Did a test to run down a protected 16340 in an EX11.2
When output had dropped to 100 lumens, the light went dark.
The protection tripped at 3.2volts

Did a test to run down a CR123 in EX11.2:
When the output had dropped to 50 lumens, the battery was at 2.5volts.
A few minutes later, output dropped to 5 lumens, at which point the battery had dropped to 2.2 volts.

would avoid using unprotected cells, unless you can monitor voltage or brightness, to prevent overdischarge


Noted.

I won’t try the unprotected vapcell in it then. The Olight is a pretty weak cell, and protected – I will have to see how it does on longer runs at maximum brightness. If the light isn’t usable at max on LiIon, I will have to figure something else out for it – possibly an entirely new driver… Wouldn’t that be something.

AmbientSix
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My wife caught me getting another.

Eagletac D25C, Nitecore D10 R2, Extreme E3, EX11.2, TIP, and Tubes. Noctigon KR4.

AmbientSix
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Aaaannd already blew it up. 3 seconds on, died. Some board component is toast. Edit: The seller is sending me a new one so all is well. Probably just the left side of the bathtub curve for electronic failures. Bookmarked the seller. Can’t say I won’t want another. The only thing really holding me back is the possibility of battery selection getting worse for 16340. Maybe that is just being paranoid though. This light is a good balance of output and size and I really love the Piston feel.

Eagletac D25C, Nitecore D10 R2, Extreme E3, EX11.2, TIP, and Tubes. Noctigon KR4.

Scallywag
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I forgot to mention: Mine came in with Andrew & Amanda on the return address label, despite being sold by “flashlight_scope_outdoors” on eBay

AmbientSix
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Same here. I bookmarked their site now. Their prices look decent and the shipping to me is pretty quick. Easy to work with also.

Eagletac D25C, Nitecore D10 R2, Extreme E3, EX11.2, TIP, and Tubes. Noctigon KR4.

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Double D10 Models

.

D10, EX11.2:

Update on my experience using a couple of my Winter Edition EX11.2 for a few days

I stopped using 16340 and am testing with CR123.

I am still finding the light ON at minimum mode, when I thought I had turned it off.

It has happened to me with both CR123 and LiIon.

.

anyone else notice their EX11.2 light on minimum, instead of off?

I have not had that issue with Version 10.. both D10 and EX10 seem easier for me to get predictable button response than V11.2 lights.

I attribute the issue to the stiffer battery spring in the 11.2 models. Requires more firm and deliberate pressure when using the switch.

KawiBoy1428
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jon_slider wrote:
Double D10 Models

.

D10, EX11.2:

Update on my experience using a couple of my Winter Edition EX11.2 for a few days

I stopped using 16340 and am testing with CR123.

I am still finding the light ON at minimum mode, when I thought I had turned it off.

It has happened to me with both CR123 and LiIon.

.

anyone else notice their EX11.2 light on minimum, instead of off?

I have not had that issue with Version 10.. both D10 and EX10 seem easier for me to get predictable button response than V11.2 lights.

I attribute the issue to the stiffer battery spring in the 11.2 models. Requires more firm and deliberate pressure when using the switch.


YepYep been chasing it for 2 days… like a double tap, from High/Turbo level, drops you back down to Low but with a single Tap as if to turn it off….

KB1428 “Live Life WOT

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Maybe the driver thinks you are double tapping instead of a single? Try taking it apart and doing a good cleaning. An intermittent connection might be tricking the uC. If the head is loose enough the wiggling can make it jump to momentary mode and back. When it does jump back it will resume the last brightness. If you pocket carry I would make sure it is not near the point where it can toggle back and forth. But I would start with a good cleaning too since it won’t hurt.

Eagletac D25C, Nitecore D10 R2, Extreme E3, EX11.2, TIP, and Tubes. Noctigon KR4.

jon_slider
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KawiBoy1428 wrote:
YepYep been chasing it for 2 days… like a double tap, from High/Turbo level, drops you back down to Low but with a single Tap as if to turn it off….

thanks for confirming

I have seen the switch refuse to turn off, 3 times in a row, producing only lowest mode, over and over. I thought it was due to some part inside being warm from using maximum

but Im getting similar off click acts like double click, with CR123. And I have read reports of the light not turning off and going to low in old threads…

all that to say, 11.2 is no my first choice
I would rather use V10 drivers..

I still hope its just a stiff spring syndrome with the v11.2 lights
but unless I can find a softer spring.. the 11.2 lights are imo, entertaining, but not predictable (thats PC talk for unreliable), hate to say it.. but, a spade is a spade

AmbientSix wrote:
Maybe the driver thinks you are double tapping instead of a single?

If you pocket carry

start with a good cleaning too since it won’t hurt.

correct, the stiff spring lights, which are all v11.2, confuse a single tap as a command to go to minimum.. the only way to avoid it is to press deliberately, firmly, and not too fast, afaict

otoh, the softer spring models, all v10, are a joy to operate, and predictable..

my lights are clean and new, not in my pocket, just toyed with on my desk.

AmbientSix
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I bet they sacrificed a debounce capacitor for the sake of board space. You can get away with that but you need to account for it with extra uC code. Still not as good as a capacitor though IMO.

Eagletac D25C, Nitecore D10 R2, Extreme E3, EX11.2, TIP, and Tubes. Noctigon KR4.

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AmbientSix wrote:
Maybe the driver thinks you are double tapping instead of a single? Try taking it apart and doing a good cleaning. An intermittent connection might be tricking the uC. If the head is loose enough the wiggling can make it jump to momentary mode and back. When it does jump back it will resume the last brightness. If you pocket carry I would make sure it is not near the point where it can toggle back and forth. But I would start with a good cleaning too since it won’t hurt.

Yep clean it is… I didn’t like how hard it was to actuate and how gritty it felt when doing so…. I set out to improve this and maybe solve the problem … but it was very clean out of the box I was impressed. The pill was taken apart and completely polished before re-flowing new LED. Even the spring was polished inside and out on/with the buffing wheel and the sharp ends of the spring de-burred. ( relieve mechanical friction).

. The inside of the spring was polished using a Leather wheel and then a buffing wheel on a Air Pencil die grinder.

. Of course the Piston and Bezel ring got polished also, bling mostly Wink

. The contact ring was de-burred (the edges were sharp/burred and the split gap too) with a rubber diamond embedded hand hone/stone if you will. Maybe the contact ring was hanging up? It is a split ring.

. It actuates buttery smooth now…even tried out different piston springs..

. I found I could turn the driver/pill/ reflector assembly by twisting the driver, also I could push/pull the driver/reflector assembly when assembled in the head. I added a thicker o-ring to the Lens/ reflector assembly to tighten it all up, thought maybe the axial slop might of had something to do with it when actuating the piston? Nope…

. maybe a glitch in the driver/mcu…like a timing issue? I noticed sometimes the ramping takes some time or hesitates to start to ramp up or down and sometimes it takes several hit’s to shut off…

TBC

KB1428 “Live Life WOT

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