[Update]Wurkkos dual LEDs 21700 Headlamp design Photos/UI update~

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river345
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rdhood wrote:
All its missing is a red led

So you want [let me count…] 3 LEDs?

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Has anyone tested charging HD20 with type C-C cables yet?

Has anyone tested reverse-charging an external device from HD20 using a type C-C cable or type C-Lightning cable yet?

On TLF some members reported that some cables refused to work properly, especially when attached to a smart power source with PD protocols (9V, 12V, 20V).

Normally, HD20 should override these protocols as two resistors should always enforce the 5V 2A standard protocol even when using type C-C cables.

I am trying to collate as much information as possible to give Wurkkos a summary for technical improvement (provided that there is an actual problem with HD20 or some cables).

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river345 wrote:
I like the wavy tube body of the Wurkkos lights. Provides a nice option when most lights on the market has knurling.

Yeah the design has grown on me. I didn’t like it before but once I got it in person I started to like it.

rdhood
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I don’t have an hd20 yet, but the fc11 does C-C. I have charged mine that way.

Fescron
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Lux-Perpetua wrote:
Has anyone tested charging HD20 with type C-C cables yet?

Yes me, works perfectly (don’t know the charge current on top of my head).

Lux-Perpetua wrote:
Has anyone tested reverse-charging an external device from HD20 using a type C-C cable or type C-Lightning cable yet?

Type C – C cable works fine. You can pull more than the advertised 1.6A but the voltage sags down. I don’t know what the cuttoff-current is, I could pull more than 2-2.5A (but at about 4V instead of 5)

Lux-Perpetua wrote:
On TLF some members reported that some cables refused to work properly, especially when attached to a smart power source with PD protocols (9V, 12V, 20V). Normally, HD20 should override these protocols as two resistors should always enforce the 5V 2A standard protocol even when using type C-C cables.

The light works fine with my Baseus 65W charger (supports a lot of different protocols) and the supplied C-C cable, haven’t tested it with other cables. It just asks for 5V.

Lux-Perpetua wrote:
I am trying to collate as much information as possible to give Wurkkos a summary for technical improvement (provided that there is an actual problem with HD20 or some cables).

They only thing I miss is smooth ramping and the Anduril battery-voltage measurements, otherwise it’s a very capable light! Also the threads could feel more durable when screwing on the magnetic tailcap with a 21700 battery. I like the “feel” more when screwing in one of those batteries in my C8G.


I plan to review it once I can take some beamshots, I wrote some bullet-points down already…

Overload
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Charging works fine here, got 1.4A so far

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Thank you guys. The most important question is, will HD20 charge with a type C-C cable properly on PowerDelivery chargers? I am not talking about the type A-C cable (big plug - small plug) which seems to work on every type A charger without problems. Can you please also test the powerbank feature using a type C-C cable. Some smartphones already use a USB-C port or Apple's new iPad Pro. Any feedback will be helpful. I hope I find some time to testing my HD20 soon, too.

Fescron
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Lux-Perpetua wrote:
The most important question is, will HD20 charge with a type C-C cable properly on PowerDelivery chargers? I am not talking about the type A-C cable (big plug – small plug) which seems to work on every type A charger without problems.

Yes, I charge everything with the Baseus 65W PD charger and a Type C – C cable (phone, laptop, camera, HD20) Smile

Lux-Perpetua wrote:
Can you please also test the powerbank feature using a type C-C cable. Some smartphones already use a USB-C port or Apple’s new iPad Pro. Any feedback will be helpful.

Works like a charm, charges my Xiaomi Mi A1 with a Type C – Type C cable just fine. My Type C meter measures 4.6V at the end of the cable (so a bit on the low side) at 1.45A. The phone displays “Charging rapidly”

roostre
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Lux-Perpetua wrote:

... will HD20 charge with a type C-C cable properly on PowerDelivery chargers? ...

Received my Wurkkos HD20 from Amazon US yesterday using the 20% discount from the BLF "HD20 Sales Thread". Thank you Wurkkos and Lux-Perpetua for another interesting and unique light.

Using USB-C to USB-C cables known to be of high quality, the Wurkkos HD20 would only charge from just one of my five PowerDelivery (PD) chargers using the charger's USB-C port.

Only the "Anker Model A2321" (120 VAC input) charger with PD would charge the Wurkkos HD20 using the USB-C port on the charger. My inline USB meter indicated that the charger's USB-C port supplied the included battery (which was discharged to 3.47 VDC as delivered) with 4.96 VDC at a starting current of 2.10 A which tapered off until charging terminated where the battery measured 4.14 VDC when out of the light using a multimeter after a short rest.

I also have an "Anker Model A2625" (120 VAC input) PD charger and an "Anker Model A2229" (12/24 VDC input) PD charger and neither of those would charge the Wurkkos HD20 using the charger's USB-C port.

I have two different types of USB-C PD (120 VAC input) chargers from Apple for my MacBook PRO (charger Model A1718) and for my MacBook Air (charger Model A1882) and neither of those would charge the Wurkkos HD20 using the charger's USB-C port.

How many flashlights does a "real man" need?

None, real men are not afraid of the dark.

river345
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roostre wrote:

Using USB-C to USB-C cables known to be of high quality, the Wurkkos HD20 would only charge from just one of my five PowerDelivery (PD) chargers using the charger’s USB-C port.


Only the “Anker Model A2321” (120 VAC input) charger with PD would charge the Wurkkos HD20 using the USB-C port on the charger. My inline USB meter indicated that the charger’s USB-C port supplied the included battery (which was discharged to 3.47 VDC as delivered) with 4.96 VDC at a starting current of 2.10 A which tapered off until charging terminated where the battery measured 4.14 VDC when out of the light using a multimeter after a short rest.


Curious if you always used the inline USB meter to determine that the other PD chargers were not charging on USB-C?

I’m not sure how inline USB current meters handle PD protocols. If you take the USB current meter out of the equation, do you get different results?

roostre
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I tested both "with and without" the inline USB meter to be sure the meter was not affecting the results.

How many flashlights does a "real man" need?

None, real men are not afraid of the dark.

Funtastic
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Just received 2x HD20’s and it’s just straight out unattractive and the weight on my forehead is too much. It’s pushing the skin down and feels heavy on my eyes.

I’ll certainly not be selling this model, very disappointing

The design looks cheap, not liking the shiny ano, no knurling as it’s all smooth but that has been on all of the Wurkkos models.

Get rid of the powerbank feature, give it magnetic charging and some proper cooling fins like on the Skilhunt H04 RC, it would also shed some weight. Sofirn/Wurkkos could be so much more then a budget brand if they put more effort into the design.

Thumbs up for trying something different but I can’t sell this at these prices. Cost the same as a dealer to get the C8F. I bought it to try just in case.

Maybe Wurkkos should make their own version of the Skilhunt H04F RC that has a diffuser lens that’s fitted on a hinge. Skilhunt failed on their model with the hinge of the diffuser reflecting light into your eyes.

Everyone has been wanting the SP40 with a 45° tir lens so maybe Wurkkos should of built something like that.

As a flashlight it’s okay, but 4 leds and a tir lens would still be way better and also helps with the weight.

Texas Ace Lumen Tube calibrated with maukka lights

New Zealand store – https://www.piercingthedarkness.co.nz (NZ customers only)

roostre
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After my previous post, I tested the five different types of USB-C PowerDelivery (PD) chargers I own to charge a Sofirn LT1 Lantern that has the newest Rev. 5.0 driver board which supports USB-C to USB-C charging.

All five PD chargers were able to charge the Sofirn LT1 Lantern using a USB-C to USB-C cable.

Only one of the five PD chargers was able to charge the Wurkkos HD20 using a USB-C to USB-C cable.

My belief is that the USB-C port on the Wurkkos HD20 is not implemented correctly for USB-C to USB-C charging.

How many flashlights does a "real man" need?

None, real men are not afraid of the dark.

Funtastic
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Lumens measured at 30s with a 40T

Turbo

Both – 1520
Spot – 1070
Flood – 565

Advertised

Both – 2000
Spot – 1300
Flood – 700

Texas Ace Lumen Tube calibrated with maukka lights

New Zealand store – https://www.piercingthedarkness.co.nz (NZ customers only)

Funtastic
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I asked my wife “what do you think of this new flashlight?” she said “It’s ugly and looks cheap”

Texas Ace Lumen Tube calibrated with maukka lights

New Zealand store – https://www.piercingthedarkness.co.nz (NZ customers only)

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Funtastic wrote:
Just received 2x HD20's and it's just straight out unattractive and the weight on my forehead is too much. It's pushing the skin down and feels heavy on my eyes. I'll certainly not be selling this model, very disappointing (...)

I don't mean to disagree but how about advertising it more as a "tool lamp" which could also be used as a headlamp?

Funtastic wrote:
(...) The design looks cheap, not liking the shiny ano, no knurling as it's all smooth but that has been on all of the Wurkkos models. Get rid of the powerbank feature, give it magnetic charging and some proper cooling fins like on the Skilhunt H04 RC, it would also shed some weight. Sofirn/Wurkkos could be so much more then a budget brand if they put more effort into the design. (...)

Any suggestions how it should look like instead? Shiny ano, yes I agree with that. A matte anodizing like Convoy's or Armytek's would be awesome but I don't know how it could be realized quickly. Maybe that's a point for mid-/longterm improvement on Sofirn's/Wurkkos's lights. What's wrong with the powerbank feature, does it increase the size of the flashlight? Magnetic charging is a very disputable, controversial idea as there's a large group of people who refuse that for reasons of proprietary technology. A simple USB-cable is something that most people always have available somewhere. Just my opinion of course. Moreover, magnetic charging would require Sofirn/Wurkkos to put more efforts in design changes. I don't know if it was easy to highlight the benefits over the downsides.

Funtastic wrote:
(...) Thumbs up for trying something different but I can't sell this at these prices. Cost the same as a dealer to get the C8F. I bought it to try just in case. Maybe Wurkkos should make their own version of the Skilhunt H04F RC that has a diffuser lens that's fitted on a hinge. Skilhunt failed on their model with the hinge of the diffuser reflecting light into your eyes. Everyone has been wanting the SP40 with a 45° tir lens so maybe Wurkkos should of built something like that. As a flashlight it's okay, but 4 leds and a tir lens would still be way better and also helps with the weight.

I have been discussing TIR lenses with Sofirn and Wurkkos several times. It seems these are a bit difficult to get or to produce (by their own injection molding factory?). I recommended buying third-party lenses from Carclo UK oder LEDiL. Maybe this will become an option in the near future, who knows. A headlamp with 4 LED dies underneath a frosted/microlensed single TIR lens is on my mind already. Osram's LE RTDUW S2WP could emit white, blue, red and green while being extremely compact in size. I try to work on a design concept already. Smile

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roostre wrote:

After my previous post, I tested the five different types of USB-C PowerDelivery (PD) chargers I own to charge a Sofirn LT1 Lantern that has the newest Rev. 5.0 driver board which supports USB-C to USB-C charging.

All five PD chargers were able to charge the Sofirn LT1 Lantern using a USB-C to USB-C cable.

Only one of the five PD chargers was able to charge the Wurkkos HD20 using a USB-C to USB-C cable.

My belief is that the USB-C port on the Wurkkos HD20 is not implemented correctly for USB-C to USB-C charging.

Thank you so much for your feedback. That might be very helpful to pinpoint the root cause. Maybe Wurkkos can let their engineers have a look at both drivers (LT1 and HD20) to check for any differences with the resistors placed onto the USB-C circuitry.

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I'm not sure the comparison to the Sofirn LT1 Lantern will be that useful to Wurkkos.

The Sofirn LT1 Lantern seems to be able to be reliably charged using a USB-C to USB-C cable with any USB-C PD charger but it does not have the capability to also function as a power bank and charge other devices like the Wurkkos HD20 is able to do.

Being able to both be charged and also be able to charge other devices has to be much more complicated to implement and I compliment Wurkkos for attempting this.

How many flashlights does a "real man" need?

None, real men are not afraid of the dark.

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The LT1 uses just two resistor to encode the power profile. I assume the HD20 has a dedicated microcontroller that implements parts of the USB standard (pretty poorly obviously). This is necessary to decide when it should charge the battery and when it should enable the boost circuit for the powerbank feature.

Regarding the design: I like it. It shares some features with other Wurkkos lights and adds interesting details like the knurling next to the switch. For a headlamp it is too big and heavy. But hanging it around your neck works fine.

The UI is not very intuitive. That’s the problem with two separate emitters and only a single button. When you turn it on you don’t know which emitter in which level you get. It really feels like this light needs two buttons.

Just started to review this light and I haven’t decided how to rate it. In some way it’s interesting, while it has also some issues.

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Approximate weight comparison based on my scale and headlamps.

Sofirn SP40 Headlamp:
64 grams - Headlamp body only without the clip
46 grams - 18650 battery delivered with the headlamp
39 grams - Headband strap
149 grams - Total Weight of above components

Wurkkos HD20 Headlamp:
87 grams - Headlamp body only without the clip
69 grams - 21700 battery delivered with the headlamp
45 grams - Headband strap
201 grams - Total Weight of above components

Amount Wurkkos HD20 weighs more than Sofirn SP40:
23 grams more - HD20 headlamp body weighs 36% more than SP40 headlamp body
23 grams more - HD20 21700 battery weighs 50% more than SP40 18650 battery
6 grams more - HD20 headband strap weighs 15% more than SP40 headband strap
52 grams more - Total weight of HD20 components is 35% more than SP40 components

The total weight increase over the SP40 is only 36 grams (or 24% more) if you use the 18650 battery included with the Sofirn SP40 instead of the 21700 battery included with the Wurkkos HD20 and also use the 7 gram battery spacer sleeve included with the HD20.

The weight difference between the two headlamps is quite noticeable and would bother me when wearing the headlamp for long periods of time or while doing an activity with quick jarring movements but it is a very nice light.

How many flashlights does a "real man" need?

None, real men are not afraid of the dark.

river345
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Funtastic wrote:

The design looks cheap, not liking the shiny ano, no knurling as it’s all smooth but that has been on all of the Wurkkos models.

Get rid of the powerbank feature, give it magnetic charging and some proper cooling fins like on the Skilhunt H04 RC, it would also shed some weight. Sofirn/Wurkkos could be so much more then a budget brand if they put more effort into the design.

What you’re saying is get rid of all the features that make it unique, just to make it more like existing lights. What’s the point of making a new light that’s just like existing lights? From a consumer standpoint, I’d rather have a different set of options – I don’t need more of the same. I’m getting this precisely for the powerbank feature and the fact that I can charge it using the same cable I charge my phone – not some special magnetic charger.

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SammysHP wrote:
(...) The UI is not very intuitive. That's the problem with two separate emitters and only a single button. When you turn it on you don't know which emitter in which level you get. It really feels like this light needs two buttons. (...) 

This UI is the result of a collaboration here where everyone was (and still is) encouraged to share suggestions. Alternatively, Wurkkos could have used a simpler UI like Acebeam‘s H60 but it would have lacked some nice, unique features like a direct access to turbo mode or user-defined brightness modes between throw and flood light in parallel use. I agree that HD20 would really benefit from two e-switches. That’s an approach I am pursuing with Wurkkos already, see WK30S for reference.

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I think I noticed several firmware bugs, but I haven’t found out how to reproduce them. One time I changed the brightness when both emitters were turned on, but their level was not in sync (meaning the spot was one or two levels behind the flood). When the light is turned off and I double click for turbo, sometimes both emitters turn on, sometimes only the emitter that was used before.

roostre
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Below is a quote from a post in a different BLF thread that reviewed the Wurkkos HD20:
https://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1709398#comment-1709398

Fescron wrote:
...
UNDOCUMENTED: - Tripple clicking while on also changes the LED, and is in my opinion faster than click + click&hold. - When off, holding the button gets the light in moonlight mode. If you press once to go off the moonlight is memorised.

Thanks Fescron for the tip that while the light is on a "quick triple click" cycles the LED modes in the same way as a "click followed quickly by a hold".

Also, the moonlight mode is only memorized for a second or two on my light. I was testing that when somehow my light ended up in a state that while the light was on I could not cycle the LED modes with either of these two methods and a "hold" on the switch unexpectedly kept cycling the LED modes instead of the brightness no matter how many times I tried to change the brightness. Turning the light off and then back on again resolved the issue but I could not remember exactly what I did to initially cause the issue and have not been able to reproduce the issue.

How many flashlights does a "real man" need?

None, real men are not afraid of the dark.

Fescron
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roostre wrote:

Below is a quote from a post in a different BLF thread that reviewed the Wurkkos HD20:
https://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1709398#comment-1709398


Fescron wrote:

UNDOCUMENTED: – Tripple clicking while on also changes the LED, and is in my opinion faster than click + click&hold. – When off, holding the button gets the light in moonlight mode. If you press once to go off the moonlight is memorised.

Thanks Fescron for the tip that while the light is on a “quick triple click” cycles the LED modes in the same way as a “click followed quickly by a hold”.


Also, the moonlight mode is only memorized for a second or two on my light. I was testing that when somehow my light ended up in a state that while the light was on I could not cycle the LED modes with either of these two methods and a “hold” on the switch unexpectedly kept cycling the LED modes instead of the brightness no matter how many times I tried to change the brightness. Turning the light off and then back on again resolved the issue but I could not remember exactly what I did to initially cause the issue and have not been able to reproduce the issue.

You’re right about moonlight, in hindsight I have the same behavior! After about two seconds the light’s memory goes back to the lowest setting instead of moonlight.

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I got my HD20 today. I want to spend more time with it before giving a review and testing the USB-C functionality against different chargers. But someone posted about a weak headband rubber material that holds the light to the headstrap. That happened to me too. One of the two rings holding my light broke in a similar way.

The light is slightly bigger round than most lights. Will generic headbands fit this OK?

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Well SP40’s headband was useless too. Didnt break, but way, way too small. My head (about 57cm circumference) felt like watermelon that was about to get sliced half by rubber bands. Made it into my helmet mount. Rubber part is ok.

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I’m looking for something like this…This one is for dia 28-32mm, the hd20 has dia of 26mm(measured at rings)
I’ve tried holders of boruit D10 and Skilhunt h04, but they don’t fit

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river345 wrote:
(…) But someone posted about a weak headband rubber material that holds the light to the headstrap. That happened to me too. One of the two rings holding my light broke in a similar way.

[picture omitted]

The light is slightly bigger round than most lights. Will generic headbands fit this OK?

Yeah the biggest negative I think is also the headband. If I could get the light in easier I’d be much more inclined to use it as headlamp or handlamp but now I’m more leaning towards “once I get it in the strap I should kinda leave it like that”… I’ve already put it in twice and every time I fear I’ll break the straps, it’s too tight imo :/

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