“REVIEW”: Lumintop FWAA – 14500 – Anduril 2 – Triple Nichia 4000K & 5000K [Pic Heavy]

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“REVIEW”: Lumintop FWAA – 14500 – Anduril 2 – Triple Nichia 4000K & 5000K [Pic Heavy]

Hi BLF!

This is my review of the Lumintop FWAA flashlight.

The flashlight was originally presented in this group buy thread (still active in the moment I’m writing/posting the review).

I bought my flashlight (Nichia 4000K 90CRI) along with a Vapcell H10 from www.nealsgadgets.com (non-affiliated), with the code provided in that thread. Besides the one I bought, Neal kindly sent me a review sample (5000K 70CRI), which I will also show in this review.

Thank you Neal for the fast shipping (10 days from shipping to arrival) and also for the extra flashlight Wink

EDIT: DISCLAIMER: I don’t do runtime, lumens or candela measurements. If this is important information for you, please consider searching other sources of information. Or…buy yourself the flashlights and the tools for that Wink Thanks for understanding!

—————————————————————————————-

GENERAL SPECIFICATIONS
Body Colour: Grey
Material: Aluminium
Emitters: 3 x Nichia 4000K 90CRI & 5000K 70 CRI ( other options: CREE XP-G3 (6500K) / Nichia 219C (3000K) / SST20 (4000K) )
Lens: Glass, AR Coated
Optic: Triple TIR Optic
Battery: 3.7V 14500 Li-Ion (max 50.5mm)
Switch: Electronic Tail Switch
Max runtime: NA
Max beam distance: 95m
Max output: 1200 to 1400 lumens
Candela: 2250cd
Waterproofness: IPX8
Impact resistance: NA
Low Voltage Warning: Yes (detailed below)
Reverse Polarity Protection: NO Sad

—————————————————————————————-

PACKAGE: Flashlight and Accessories

The FWAA flashlights arrived in a thick white box Lumintop branded. In the bottom there is a sticker indicating the LEDs type. Inside, the flashlight and accessories are well protected by foam.

The box contains: FWAA flashlight, 1 lanyard, 2 o-rings, 1 cigar grip ring, 1 user manual, and a card indicating the correct polarity. The flashlight has already installed a pocket clip, and with mine I bought a Vapcell H10 battery, as an extra.

THE FLASHLIGHT

For those who know me in what concerns flashlights, it is already obvious that I like AA/14500 flashlights, and that I was an enthusiast of the FW3A flashlight. So…if you combine both, it is an immediate win for me Wink

This FWAA is a compact version of the FW3A, with similar body, just “shrunk” into a more pocketable and EDC’able flashlight!

It is:
- compact, being even shorter than the DQG Slim Ti AA which was the smallest AA light with a tail switch I own and know

- lightweight, even if not “feather-weight”

- well machined, without any visible imperfections

- pleasant to the touch, with a good anodizing and the knurling helping on the grip

- configurable in terms of user interface and extras, as it brings Anduril 2 firmware, designed by ToyKeeper

—————

Looking at its constitution, what can be said from the top to the bottom?
- the bezel can be unscrewed to have access to the LEDs

- the bezel has some etching/engravings, on the one side the “HOT” and Lumintop logo, and on the other the FWAA and the flashlight serial number

- there is a glass AR coated lens, with an o-ring below it that keeps it well secured

- outside the head, below the threads, there is also another sealing o-ring

- the TIR optic is smaller than the Carclo 105XX optics, so it is probably an less know TIR or a made by request one

- the TIR is slightly “frosted” not as the Carclo 10508 but more like a 10511

- the LEDs seem well reflowed, although on the 5000K there is one LED in which there seems to be an issue, which can only be seen in the lowest level of all and that doesn’t affect the beam

- the wires are well soldered (there were some solder blobs around but not on the leds), the MCPCB is quite thick, there is a screw to “fixate” the MCPCB in place, and there is grey thermal paste under it

- I didn’t unsolder nor removed the driver, but it can be seen that there is a retaining ring that holds it in place, and the spring seems a tough one to prevent contacts between battery and driver’s chips

- as known, there is a signal tube inside the host tube, which has both edges unanodized

- there are o-rings in each tip of the host tube, which also has unanodized threads and edges

- in the tail cap, outside can be seen a metal button with the “bunny” logo Love and inside it can also be seen a retaining ring to hold the switch in place (I didn’t disassemble the tailcap)

- the spring on the tail switch is also tough

- the threads on both sides are square and arrived slightly lubricated

- the pocket clip and the cigar grip ring can only be attached from the tailcap side, and both can have a lanyard attached

- the pocket clip is double sided to allow pocket carry and cap carrying , headlamp style

- the cigar grip ring provides a good…grip, it doesn’t get “stuck” in one position, it can be rotated or allow the flashlight rotation



LANYARD
You can attach it to different points in the pocket clip, and also in the cigar grip ring.

POCKET CLIP
It is well made, allows dual sided use and, as far as I could test, it provides good retention on jeans pockets.

CIGAR GRIP RING
I confess, I was nor enthusiastic about this accessory, but I am now admitting that it works well in the FWAA specially because this is a small flashlight and sometimes getting a good grip can be harder. It makes the flashlight bulkier, though, and does not provide retention on a pocket. Maybe using it with a lanyard can be a better option!

Talking about being a small flashlight, here are its’ weight and dimensions!

BATTERIES
A delicate point mentioned on freeme’s thread was the batteries indicated for this flashlight. You know, being a higher drain flashlight is preferable if you want to obtain the max output. Currently, Shockli and Vapcell make the best 14500 batteries in the market (high drain and high capacity). Just be sure you get them in the right format, as seen bellow.

I tried some of the 14500s I have and these are the ones that worked, portrayed in the photos.

Shockli H10 IMR 14500 1050mAh 12A – unprotected flat top
Vapcell H10 INR 14500 1000mAh 10A – unprotected flat top
Efest IMR 14500 650mAh 9.75A – unprotected flat top
Sofirn 14500 900mAh – unprotected button top (shorter than the other cells)
Sanyo UR14500P 800mAH – unprotected flat top

These 2, unprotected button top Vapcell Gold and Vapcell H10, didn’t work as they are too long for the FWAA flashlight.

EDIT: After further tests, they worked in the flashlights *BUT they produced slight bents on the springs. I wouldn’t advise using these longer button top cells on the FWAA. Please refer to this post: https://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1766072#comment-1766072

—————————————————————————————-

USER MANUAL and USER INTERFACE

Well, I will not enter the details on the user interface of this flashlight. I could go step by step, but
a) that would take all the fun of experimenting and experiencing that Silly
b) I am not completely familiarized with it yet Oops
c) I am sure many of you are already familiarized with the Anduril version, so the Anduril 2 has some new and different features, that you’ll learn fast Grad

You can also learn more from it in the source: http://toykeeper.net/torches/fsm/anduril2/anduril-manual.txt

The User Manual is well written and will surely guide those willing to take the full Anduril trip Wink
click to see in bigger screen

As I am still learning and going through some configurations of this flashlight, I wasn’t able yet to see it all and to give a full opinion about it, but I can tell that I really like this UI and that it suits this flashlight pretty well Wink

—————————————————————————————-

FLASHLIGHT COMPARISON

As always, I do some flashlight comparison to show how the reviewed flashlight looks like!
In this FWAA, besides looking good, I don’t get tired of saying “it is even smaller than the DQG Slim Ti AA” and even the Enogear SS !
Me likes Big Smile

Vs GT Nano

Vs Tool AA 2.0 Panda White

Vs Convoy S2+ 18500

Vs Enogear and DQS Slim Ti AA

Vs Sofirn SP10A and Skilhunt M150

Vs Acebam TK15 and Olight S1R Baton II

Vs RovyVon A23 and On The Road 311

Vs Jaxman E3, Sofirn SF14 and Convoy T2

Vs FW3A and FW1A

Cute, ain’t it? Love

—————————————————————————————-

BEAMSHOTS

Time for some beamshots, indoor and outdoor, and some tint comparison.
No PWM detectable by human eye as far as I can tell.

Minimum range I could get was indoors, about 1 to 1.5m. Outdoor, the maximum range out be 60-70m .

Regarding the tints, I am inclined to say that I prefer the 4000K, it has a warmer tint, better colour rendition and I can relate more easily with it, specially looking at my latest preferences in colour temperatures, between 3000K up to 5000K.

Despite this, the 5000K Nichias are also pleasant enough for my eyes and I could live with it perfectly. These have some more “greenish” tint on them, but not as much as SST20 5000K Sick

I would also like to see Nichias 5700K 90CRI on these lights, as it would probably make a “pure white” beam!

FWAAs: Nichia 219C 4000K 90CRI vs Nichia 219C 5000K 70CRI



Some outdoor beamshots to show how it lights the dark spaces around the house! It can reach something like 60-70m with “good” illumination, on max output but then it loses more range with this kind of LED.

A single led would certainly give more “throw” but could also lose some of the close range beauty that this light provides with its’ floody beam.



And now some tint comparison with other lights I like!
The comparison tints are on the right side of each photo. I will try to put my other Nichias side by side with it and see how these look like in comparison.

VS FW3A (XP-L HI 3D 5000K)

VS Convoy S6 (Luxeon V 4000K)

VS Convoy S2+ 18500 (Luxeon V2 3000K)

Well, this is juts an experience with the Lumintop Tool AA V2.0 diffuser. It works, not perfectly, but it can be used with this flashlight, as example, in candle mode. I also tried with the diffuser from the Wuben E05 and it works even better. I am sure it will have some use that way Wink

—————————————————————————————-

WHAT A PAIR Big Smile

Last but not least, both FWAAs side by side. The one in the right is the one that Neal sent as review sample (Nichia 5000K), which bought the same accessories as the one I bought, except the battery.





—————————————————————————————-

OVERALL APPRECIATION

Well, as I mentioned before, I may be a bit biased about this/these flashlights, given that I like AA/14500 and that I like the FW3A and that Anduril firmware. With this warning you can guess that I don’t have much to say about the FWAA, besided what I mentioned before.

TO IMPROVE
- In terms of aspects to improve, I guess heat (when used at max, the “real” max) would be a point to correct, but given that this is a pocket rocket it would eventually distort the purpose of the flashlight Big Smile

- Also Reverse Polarity Protection should be introduced in this flashlight! I tested an inversed battery and it went hot within seconds. So, a major point to correct would be this one.

- Another thing, would be to remove the etching/engraving in the bezel, which is not completely bad, but I would prefer it without any marks.

- The last thing I would probably improve, would be the pocket clip, to have one that allows deep carry, such as the “Neal” clip for the FW3A.

- I would also like to see, as eventual accessories: a stainless steel bezel and a specific diffuser.

WHAT I LIKE (besides what I mentioned before)
- Concerning the parts I like, I do like the size, the weight, the texture/anodizing, the shape, the responsiveness of the tail button, the way it is built and secure inside (ex: retaining rings!), the tint and the different led options. Big Smile Thumbs Up

Other than this, I am really happy with this flashlight. And now I’ll go through the UI chart to learn all the Anduril 2 stuff! Big Smile

———————————-

Thanks to all involved in the work, thanks freeme and Neal for the code, and thanks Neal for sending the review sample too Wink

If you have comments or questions let them come! Beer

Edited by: MascaratumB on 05/10/2021 - 10:20
sp5it
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Most important info missing. Runtime graphs.

Think of how stupid the average person is, and realize half of them are stupider than that. George Carlin

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sp5it wrote:
Most important info missing. Runtime graphs.

Well…if you go through all my reviews you’ll notice I never do runtime graphs, nor lumens or candela testing… I don’t have the tools for that, nor will have.

You can see this video from freeme/1theDeals, posted on the FWAA thread and jump to the minute 8m59s.
Originally posted here: https://budgetlightforum.com/node/77286

Thumbs Up
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Thx

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lightboy112233 wrote:

Thx


Thanks and welcome to BLF!
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I got mine with SST-40 today. Cute little light. Smile
Definitely a flooder, but not as extremely wide as I would expect.

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Agro wrote:
I got mine with SST-40 today. Cute little light. Smile
Definitely a flooder, but not as extremely wide as I would expect.

Hum, can it be due to the SST20 produce a narrower beam than the Nichias?
And indeed it is a cute light, in many ways Love
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Here is zeroairs review with runtime graphs…

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MascaratumB wrote:
Agro wrote:
I got mine with SST-40 today. Cute little light. Smile
Definitely a flooder, but not as extremely wide as I would expect.

Hum, can it be due to the SST20 produce a narrower beam than the Nichias?
And indeed it is a cute light, in many ways Love

Yes, 219C is much floodier than SST-20. That’s why I didn’t even consider a Nichia. I expected the light to be too floody with SST-20….and it actually is too floody, but not as much as I’d expect.
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samyy wrote:
Here is zeroairs review with runtime graphs…

Thanks for posting samyy! Wink
I hadn’t seen zeroair’s review yet, gonna take a look!

Agro wrote:
Yes, 219C is much floodier than SST-20. That’s why I didn’t even consider a Nichia. I expected the light to be too floody with SST-20….and it actually is too floody, but not as much as I’d expect.

I guess the type of optic plays a role too, once it is not a clear one as the Carclo 10507, but it looks more like the 10511 used on the FW3A.
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Muito obrigado pela grande revisão, MascaratumB. Thumbs Up Smile

I fully agree with your opinion about this cute light. I bought both Nichia 219C 3000K and Luminus SST20 4000K, being really pleased with the overall performance. I noticed that thermal configuration is put somewhere else and not according to the standard by TK. After battery check another doubleclick does not take you to thermal config but to some beacon or blinky bode. It takes two doubleclicks in a row from battery check to get to thermal configuration.

I set my FWAAs to a ceiling of 100/150 (they both came with 150/150 in Advanced UI). Now, it works to my full satisfaction. I am not sure if the H10 really has 1000mAh since I only squeezed 550mAh into it from 3.41V to 4.16V. Will need to do a full capacity check later on.

Muitas saudações da Alemanha para Portugal. Smile

Thomas

P.S.

Maybe my Andúril 2 UI chart can be helpful to navigate through the UI.

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Nice review but the one thing I was was looking forward to seeing was how obvious the step down was. Supposedly it’s 1900 lumens to 100 lumens in like 20 seconds.

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Lux-Perpetua wrote:

Muito obrigado pela grande revisão, MascaratumB. Thumbs Up Smile


I fully agree with your opinion about this cute light. I bought both Nichia 219C 3000K and Luminus SST20 4000K, being really pleased with the overall performance. I noticed that thermal configuration is put somewhere else and not according to the standard by TK. After battery check another doubleclick does not take you to thermal config but to some beacon or blinky bode. It takes two doubleclicks in a row from battery check to get to thermal configuration.


I set my FWAAs to a ceiling of 100/150 (they both came with 150/150 in Advanced UI). Now, it works to my full satisfaction. I am not sure if the H10 really has 1000mAh since I only squeezed 550mAh into it from 3.41V to 4.16V. Will need to do a full capacity check later on.


Muitas saudações da Alemanha para Portugal. Smile


Thomas


P.S.


Maybe my Andúril 2 UI chart can be helpful to navigate through the UI.


Thanks for your words and suggestions Lux Perpetua Wink Muito obrigado!

I wasn’t able to test the zillion configuration possibilities yet, so I didn’t compare/contrast the User Manual with your chart and check the differences. Thanks for the work on the chart and also thanks for the heads-up and correction of that point!! I just passed it from the Simple UI to the Advanced UI Big Smile

About the H10, I remember from HKJ tests that they are close to 1000mAh, but not exactly there, while the Shockli is farther from their advertised 1050mAH.

zoulas wrote:
Nice review but the one thing I was was looking forward to seeing was how obvious the step down was. Supposedly it’s 1900 lumens to 100 lumens in like 20 seconds.

Like I mentioned before zoulas, I normally don’t do that kind of measurements on my reviews. I can check the stepdown in terms of lux vs minutes/seconds, but lumens and candela, it is not my thing as I don’t have tools for that.

As posted before, here is a link for zeroair review, with the runtime graphs.
https://zeroair.org/2021/05/06/lumintop-fwaa-nichia-flashlight-review/#P...

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MascaratumB wrote:


great comparison photos
that thing looks tiny!

great tint and beamshot photos too
your 4000k 219c looks amazing, I love the pink tint.. that is very unusual for a 219c

thank you for taking the time to share all that info
I was almost tempted, but I want AA compatibility

too bad about the No Reverse Polarity protection.. but glad at least it did not kill your driver when you tested..

the zeroair review has a tint comparison shot:

zeroair wrote:

that is a disgusting LED!
it is supposedly also the 4000k 219c… something does not make sense…
im Sad that he reports the light has PWM

WTB Novatac Pocket Clip

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Looks like the white balance on his camera is wrong because that is way to yellow for 4000k!

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jon_slider wrote:

wow

great comparison photos

that thing looks tiny!

Thanks my friend Wink It is indeed a small little and cute flashlight. I think this is one that many of us will “need” to have in the collection, be it for EDC, or for a shelf queen Wink It is great for being so small!

jon_slider wrote:
great tint and beamshot photos too

your 4000k 219c looks amazing, I love the pink tint.. that is very unusual for a 219c

Yup, indeed, it is quite nice tint and reminds me of a XP-G2 in have in the DGQ Slim. I will try to do some comparison tomorrow. I will also add some more photos of both lights trying to provide a better comparison.

jon_slider wrote:
thank you for taking the time to share all that info

I was almost tempted, but I want AA compatibility


Nothing to thank Blushing
Hum, I guess that for it we will have to wait for the Sofirn SP10X to see the daylight Wink

jon_slider wrote:

too bad about the No Reverse Polarity protection.. but glad at least it did not kill your driver when you tested..

I monitored the zone of the driver and when I noticed it was getting warm, I disconnected the power to avoid damage!

jon_slider wrote:

the zeroair review has a tint comparison shot:
[…]
that is a disgusting LED!
it is supposedly also the 4000k 219c… something does not make sense…

im Sad that he reports the light has PWM

I think that sometimes it is difficult to get the balances right! And the Nichias, as far as I tried, are a bit hard to capture in their real essence. But indeed it is more rosy (to my eyes) than yellow.

And the PWM it has is not visible, it can only be seen in a camera.

Sirstinky wrote:
Looks like the white balance on his camera is wrong because that is way to yellow for 4000k!

I believe you are mentioning zeroair, or do you refer to mine?

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Trying to show how floody it gets (even if the eyes see more than the camera).

Nichia 4000K (left) vs Nichia 5000K (right)

Building at 42m

Tower at 70m
(control)

Now the colour rendering with Auto balance.
Sorry about the focus on these, I forgot to get it closer Facepalm


Reds turn better with the 4000K (left).
And you can see that the photos get rosier on the right!

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MascaratumB wrote:
the PWM it has is not visible, it can only be seen in a camera.


very helpful, what about when waving the light up and down quickly?

unfortunately zeroair does not have the ability to measure the PWM speed

MascaratumB wrote:
Trying to show how floody it gets

zeroair also says its very floody.. I dont mind that.. looks fine to me
I dont expect triples to be throwers..

and thanks for the flower photos.. very pretty Smile
Im also curious what that tall metal screw is in some of your pics.. wine press?

WTB Novatac Pocket Clip

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jon_slider wrote:
MascaratumB wrote:
the PWM it has is not visible, it can only be seen in a camera.

very helpful, what about when waving the light up and down quickly?

unfortunately zeroair does not have the ability to measure the PWM speed, that would eliminate a lot of questions..

I don’t have that possibility too, but I would bet it doesn’t do that while waving! It is not visible (as far as I can tell) , only measurable! Thumbs Up

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MascaratumB wrote:
I guess the type of optic plays a role too, once it is not a clear one as the Carclo 10507, but it looks more like the 10511 used on the FW3A.

I wonder if the optic can be polished for a more focused beam?

"America has three cities, New York, San Francisco and New Orleans. Everywhere else is Cleveland."- Tennessee Williams

 

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BOO5TED wrote:
MascaratumB wrote:
I guess the type of optic plays a role too, once it is not a clear one as the Carclo 10507, but it looks more like the 10511 used on the FW3A.

I wonder if the optic can be polished for a more focused beam?


I doubt that! I guess that the more it gets polished, the more “frosted” it will be, and the floodier it will get. But this is a supposition!
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MascaratumB wrote:
I doubt that! I guess that the more it gets polished, the more “frosted” it will be, and the floodier it will get. But this is a supposition!

The more polished it is, the clearer is will get. I would think that would be like the difference between the 10507 (clear, narrow) and the 10509(frosted, wide).

"America has three cities, New York, San Francisco and New Orleans. Everywhere else is Cleveland."- Tennessee Williams

 

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BOO5TED wrote:
MascaratumB wrote:
I doubt that! I guess that the more it gets polished, the more “frosted” it will be, and the floodier it will get. But this is a supposition!

The more polished it is, the clearer is will get. I would think that would be like the difference between the 10507 (clear, narrow) and the 10509(frosted, wide).


Yup, I know that is the purpose of polishing, but with such a tiny optic and thin surface, I am not sure how well could you polish to get a clear look as the 10507. But I am no expert on that too.

This is the type of surface you have (I don’t have my magnifying lenses with me to take a better photo).
Click to see in full resolution.

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Is the surface flat? or is there concavity above the lenses?

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JaredM wrote:
Is the surface flat? or is there concavity above the lenses?

Yup, it is flat Thumbs Up
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No zeroairs white balance seems off, not yours.

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I think zeroair does not actually know what LED is in the light

“I wasn’t told what Kelvin was shipped and there was no package”

and here are his comments on the beam shape:

“The optic is around 17mm, and I couldn’t find a single replacement anywhere for it. It’s a very floody optic . Very floody.”

anyway
.. its a nice host.. the LEDs can be changed Wink

WTB Novatac Pocket Clip

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Lux-Perpetua wrote:

Maybe my Andúril 2 UI chart can be helpful to navigate through the UI.


Wow, this is exceptional!!!!

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jon_slider wrote:
I think zeroair does not actually know what LED is in the light

“I wasn’t told what Kelvin was shipped and there was no package”

This is correct. I was shipped a light with no package, and was not told what the kelvin is.

Could be that it’s 3000K.

jon_slider
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zeroair wrote:
I was shipped a light with no package, and was not told what the kelvin is.

I still greatly appreciate your review
one of the things you do that I like, is you sometimes take lights apart

did you confirm the LED is a 219C?
Im asking mainly because the tint in your comparison photo
(another feature of your reviews that I really like),

zeroair wrote:

does not look pink at all.. particularly compared to the photos by MascaratumB
MascaratumB wrote:


not trying to say one is right or the other wrong.. just pointing out a surprising Tint difference

WTB Novatac Pocket Clip

zeroair
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jon_slider wrote:
did you confirm the LED is a 219C?

I did do so. The review shows the emitters with the bezel off; you can see the emitters too if you’d like.

jon_slider wrote:
Im asking mainly because the tint in your comparison photo
(another feature of your reviews that I really like), does not look pink at all.. particularly compared to the photos by MascaratumB

not trying to say one is right or the other wrong.. just pointing out a surprising Tint difference

Yes this surprised me too quite a bit (when someone else also pointed it out). I don’t have the answer. As with the other set of beamshots, the settings are as stated in the review:

zeroair wrote:
These beamshots are always with the following settings: f8, ISO100, 0.3s shutter, and manual 5000K exposure.

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