"(PRE)VIEW" – Lumintop FW1AA (Sample)

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MascaratumB
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"(PRE)VIEW" – Lumintop FW1AA (Sample)

Hi BLF!

Neal sent me a sample of the upcoming Lumintop FW1AA flashlight. Below you’ll find some information about this product, as well as some of my thoughts on it based on the current sample.

After the FWAA flashlight (reviewed here), that is the 3 LED version, the FW1AA arrives a single LED.

The flashlights are pretty much similar in functioning (as far as I can tell), the body structure is also very similar, and they only differ in terms of length and head structure.

Also different is the metal button in the tail, doesn’t have the rabbit, and there are no engravings on the bezel. BUT, remember, this is only a sample.

The FW1AA is equipped with:

- white o-ring

- AR coated glass lens (17.7mm x 1mm)

- smooth reflector (5mm hole)

- black gasket (sitting around and above the LED)

- Osram KW CSLNM1.TG LED (also known was W1)

- copper DTP MCPCB (3030 footprint)

- 17.8 mm driver with an Anduril 2 version (similar to the FWAA, as far as I can tell)

The rest of the body and structure is similar to the FWAA, so I will not enter in details.

HEAD

TAIL

BEZEL, LENS, REFLECTOR & GASKET

The head is what really differentiates the FW1AA from the FWAA, not only due to the amount of LEDs (which is obvious), but also because the bezel is slightly longer and the DTP MCPCB sits within the shelf and not above it.

The DTP MCPCB is similar to the one used in the Lumintop GT Nano. I would assume that, given the compact size of the flashlight, if Lumintop wanted to use a larger MCPCB, it would need to sit above the shelf, and that would add some more millimetres in length making it less compact and less competitive in comparison to other small 14500 flashlights.

Also, they would probably need to design and order specific LED boards to fit well in the FW1AA head. And…that would probably increase the final value for us, buyers.

So, opting for a design and material they already have might have been a smart move. The MCPCB has a good amount of thermal paste below and it fits tight against the “shelf hole” helping on heat dissipation, which is crucial for all LEDs, but even more for this one.

Given that this MCPCB has a very specific shape and footprint, it will not be a good one to be modded. UNLESS you have other nice 3030 LEDs around, and UNLESS Lumintop comes out with more LED options (preferably 3535 footprint) so that it can be modded more easily.

The wires used are relatively thin, which is probably on purpose to increase resistance and avoid frying the LED. The wires/solder are covered by a red type of glue or insulation, and also some kapton tape, which is to avoid contact with the aluminium reflector and some eventual short circuit.

This is not a perfect design or solution and I’ve express that to Neal, suggesting that Lumintop should try a better option, like a wider gasket that centres the LED and that sits above the wires, too. Blitzwolf did that in the BW-ET1, as example.

The black gasket sits well above the LED and below the reflector, so there is no contact between those two.

However, given that the Osram W1 is an LED difficult to center and to achieve a perfect beam, I am not sure if the current option is the best, too. I’ve expressed that to Neal, but I have no better solution. People almost lose their mind trying to focus this LED and many times without perfect results, so I am not sure if the FW1AA, with that small reflector will be able to do it as well. Of course, this is much more noticeable if we are “white wall hunters” Silly

As for the smooth reflector, it has no machining flaws, seems well made in terms of reflective surface and it only “produces artifacts” since the LED is the one mentioned above, and maybe the centering method needs some refinement. I didn’t try the flashlight outside (yet) to see how good the beam is. I will post some photos when I do it.

Other than this, the driver and remaining structure is similar to the FWAA, on which you can find some information in different reviews and threads.

COMPARISON BETWEEN FW1AA & FWAA (and my other “FW1AA”)

FW1AA > FWAA

About using aspects, as mentioned, the FW1AA seems to be using the same UI of the FWAA, which is a version of Anduril 2, if I am not mistaken.

This flashlight will get HOOOOT as hell if you put it on the max output with a high drain 14500 battery.
Also, on that max level, you can notice a change on the beam colour, which becomes whiter without being “blueish”. I believe that if the wires were thicker, the LED would become blueish on max.

That is why I would advise to:
a) set the thermal control to a manageable temperature
b) not to use it on max for an extended period of time
c) eventually set a lower “ceiling level”, instead of 150

I tried mine with a Shockli IMR14500 (orange) and it got really really hot. So be advised for this. Those who have the FWAA already know what to do.

I’d also mention that the pocket clip is similar to the FWAA. I don’t know if other accessories will be included (or which ones will be included), but I’d expect a more or less similar package to the FWAA.

Here are some “against a white wall in the dark” beamshots!

BEAM PROFILE

VS GT NANO (on the right)

VS FWAA (on the right)

Some of those artifacts on the hotspot (with more yellowish parts and sometimes seeing the LED “square”, and also seeing that “hole”, which is normal in this in many other LEDs)

Oh, and… it is even smaller than the GT Nano on the 10440 version Big Smile

——————————

Here’s a kind of summary of what I think about the flashlight in terms of things I like and things that can/must be improved.

WHAT I LIKE
- compactness, since this is still one of the smallest 14500 flashlights with a tailswitch

- lightweight, more than the FWAA by 2 grams (FW1AA = 33gr vs FWAA 35gr)

- user interface, which is configurable and which is already known for most “Anduril users”, in particular those with an FWAA

- no machining flaws and no any visible structural flaws, including the switch, that works perfectly, and the inner tubes that haven’t caused any issue so far

- the narrower and throwy beam, since the FWAA is floodier and can be complemented by this one, for longer distances (I hope)

- no bunny and no engravings, but knowing that this is a sample, maybe the final versions will have it like it’s triple sister Big Smile

/////////////

WHAT CAN BE IMPROVED
- the hotspot, by improving the centering method (combination between gasket and reflector), since it generates a not perfect hotspot with some small artifacts (against a white wall and more noticeable in lower levels)

- the wiring method, since using red glue and kapton tape for insulation is not a very good solution for a “sale” version of this flashlight; so, a different type of gasket or any changes on the reflector would be good

/////////////

OTHER ASPECTS TO BE CONSIDERED
- it gets really hot with high drain cells, so it is better to have thermal configuration activated and in a more conservative way

- the beam on max gets whiter, so with thicker wires would probably turn blue Silly

- there will be difficulty to mod the MCPCB/LED, since the footprint is 3030 and the DTP MCPCB is very specific in size and shape (one can try Osram KW CSLPM1.TG (2mm2) which also has 3030 footprint)

- I was not informed about:

a) other LED options

b) the package and accessories in the sale version.

——————————

This is it for now and maybe this light will be available soon, hopefully with some improvements on the beam although it is not a deal breaker!

Big thanks to Neal Zhang for sending this sample for presentation and preview! Thumbs Up

Thanks for reading and leave your comments and questions if you want to, I’ll reply when possible!
Beer

jasontheguitarist
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I know Osram emitters are the new hotness, but I think a 3535 emitter like SST-20 or LH351D and an OP reflector would be more useful. Not everything needs to be a super thrower.

I’m still butthurt about Lumintop ruining the reflector on the FW1A before I could get around to buying one.

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I agree 3535 would be more useful. The reflector is too narrow to make this a good thrower even with the Olson emitter. And some people like tint and CRI on their edc.

Also, will these be available in Titanium?

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jasontheguitarist wrote:
I know Osram emitters are the new hotness, but I think a 3535 emitter like SST-20 or LH351D and an OP reflector would be more useful. Not everything needs to be a super thrower.

I’m still butthurt about Lumintop ruining the reflector on the FW1A before I could get around to buying one.


Same. To all of it.
lumenzilla
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Thanks for the (p)review, MascaratumB.

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Lumintop need to go back to the original reflector on the FW1A. They keep coming out with new lights but stuff up the old ones!

Gunga
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Looks interesting. I agree with the other comments. 3535 makes a lot more sense. A better reflector (or optic) and titanium please.

thefreeman
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Thanks for all the details MascaratumB.

I don’t get it though, why the complicated shelf/MCPCB design ?

Quote:
 if Lumintop wanted to use a larger MCPCB, it would need to sit above the shelf, and that would add some more millimetres in length making it less compact and less competitive in comparison to other small 14500 flashlights.

Is the part of the shelf below the MCPCB super thin ? Even so I don’t think this design is thermally better than having the lower thickness for the whole shelf and a large MCPCB which IMO would transfer away the heat better to the head, plus the wires would be farther apart so the reflector can sit lower.

Quote:
So, opting for a design and material they already have might have been a smart move. The MCPCB has a good amount of thermal paste below and it fits tight against the “shelf hole” helping on heat dissipation, which is crucial for all LEDs, but even more for this one.

Eh not really, thermal paste has very low thermal conductivity, it’s just there to help fill micro holes between two surfaces hard pressed together, on the sides there it’s doing nothing.

Quote:
I know Osram emitters are the new hotness, but I think a 3535 emitter like SST-20 or LH351D and an OP reflector would be more useful. Not everything needs to be a super thrower.

Absolutely, a single SST-20 will already give a more useful beam than in a FWAA triple with tiny optics, and will gives neutral/warm white options with high CRI which the Osram can’t.
Or they could have used an XP-P, since it’s an XP footprint, only one MCPCB to produce.

Edit : behold my impressive drawing skills LOL :

Is it like that ? If so what are A and B ?

TIFisher
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Lumintop must have a 40,000 foot reel of NM1 emitters sitting around. First the GT’s Mini/ Micro/ Nano, then the new GTA, and now this. It’s a fun emitter for sure, but it’s been done ad nauseum. Like most people, I was kinda looking forward to this iteration, but the NM1 is a lazy choice, IMHO.

MascaratumB
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Thanks for your comments folks! Wink
I will try to reply to the questions placed above!

jasontheguitarist wrote:
I know Osram emitters are the new hotness, but I think a 3535 emitter like SST-20 or LH351D and an OP reflector would be more useful. Not everything needs to be a super thrower.

I do agree that 3535 would be better, specially for modding capability and for centering purposes. I have another FW1AA (which is a transformed FWAA) with LH351D and TIR optic (from an S1R Baton) and it is a less throwy but more versatile for other daily uses.
I guess the usage of the Osram may be influenced by the hype and also due to the desires of people to have something not floody.

Firelight2 wrote:
I agree 3535 would be more useful. The reflector is too narrow to make this a good thrower even with the Olson emitter. And some people like tint and CRI on their edc.

Also, will these be available in Titanium?

I am not sure how good it throws since I couldn’t take it outside a night, yet. It will probably not reach the distances from the GT Nano, but it won’t be far either, because it will be pushed harder, eventually.

I am not sure if it will available in other metals Oops When it is released maybe there are some more info about that!

@ Sallywag: Thanks!

@ lumenzilla: Thanks!

stephenk wrote:
Lumintop need to go back to the original reflector on the FW1A. They keep coming out with new lights but stuff up the old ones!

Didn’t know they changed teh FW1A reflector. Mine was from the second batch, still working fine.
Gunga wrote:
Looks interesting. I agree with the other comments. 3535 makes a lot more sense. A better reflector (or optic) and titanium please.

Let’s see what offer they will have besided alu, if there will be any! If the centering is right, I guess this will sell well and maybe they can add new options in body materials.

@ thefreeman: Thanks for the comments, I will try to reply below.

thefreeman wrote:
I don’t get it though, why the complicated shelf/MCPCB design ?

I can’t reply with certainty, but it was maybe due to the aspects I mentioned before, the availabilty of MCPCBs (from the GT Nano) and also due to length issues, to make it compact.

thefreeman wrote:
Is the part of the shelf below the MCPCB super thin ? Even so I don’t think this design is thermally better than having the lower thickness for the whole shelf and a large MCPCB which IMO would transfer away the heat better to the head, plus the wires would be farther apart so the reflector can sit lower.

I guess your drawing is accurate in the representation, but I am not sure about A and B thickness.
I do agree with your perspective, from a design point of view and from the thermal point of view. When I said it was a “smart move” I meant that concering the use of an already existent MCPCB (which is more favourable to the manufacturer) and also the length (which is more favourable to users).

thefreeman wrote:
Eh not really, thermal paste has very low thermal conductivity, it’s just there to help fill micro holes between two surfaces hard pressed together, on the sides there it’s doing nothing.

Eh, my sentence there was not about the thermal paste, but the fitting of the MCPCB on the “hole” in the shelf, which is almost in contact.
The proof that the heatsinking is functioning is that with the thermal paste it has and the deisgn it has, the flashlight body gets hot after some seconds on max, like the FWAA. So, the combination of these two factors make the heatsinking work. Unless everything is coming from the driver only, but I cannot ascertain that.
TIFisher wrote:
Lumintop must have a 40,000 foot reel of NM1 emitters sitting around. First the GT’s Mini/ Micro/ Nano, then the new GTA, and now this. It’s a fun emitter for sure, but it’s been done ad nauseum. Like most people, I was kinda looking forward to this iteration, but the NM1 is a lazy choice, IMHO.

In this format, it was not done at nauseum. Manker has one 14500 light with this emitter, but I am not sure if there are other 14500 lights with it. Smaller, yes, bigger, yes, but maybe not like this. However, I relate to the preference for other LEDs specially in the 3535 format.

Thanks again and I hope I could clarify some points (even if I don’t have more info about them or about other aspects you asked about) Wink

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I went on a rant of FB when this was teased over there… I want to know what point this will serve… why on earth is the sudden goal in the flashlight world to have a pencil beam tiny light with almost no practical use? When this light became a rumor, I was so hoping for an LH351D, SST-20, 219B, or 5A binned XP-L HD or HI.

I have carried a light almost every day for most of my 35 year working life. Currently I am winding up 32 years on a major campus as a Network Engineer who in addition manages 350+ tiny facilities and 10 large facilities. I am responsible for the reference designs for HVAC and electrical in small network CER’s (1 to 5 switches and routers) all the way up to our central network comms sites with 70kVa UPS units and 10 to 20 tons of cooling. I have to be able to see 24 gauge copper wire colors on the back of patch panels and colored buffer tubes on 144 and 288 strand fibers. My current EDC is an FW1A with a 4000k LH351D and I was hoping like hell that the more compact FWAA would have a good hi cri emitter with a useful beam… NOT A STUPID, USELESS, LOW CRI PENCIL BEAM!!! Sad

Rant over, will I try one? Likely I will relent and end up with one. Compared to 6 FW3A’s all with different LED’s and 3 FW1A’s also all different.

I have one FWAA with SST-20’s @ 4000k, really like it. I do wish it was a little less flood, but that is expected with a tiny triple, thus the high expectations for this little light.

EDC rotation:
FW1A, LH351D 4000k (second favorite)
FW3A, LH351D 3500k
FW3A, SST20 FD2 4000k
FW3A, Nichia 4000k sw40 r9080 (favorite light!)
FW3A, Cree XP-L Hi 5A3
Emisar D4V2, SST20 4000k

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Thank you so much for review

Flashlight addicted

BOO5TED
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LH351D, OP reflector and a non crap clip and I’d be all over this.

"America has three cities, New York, San Francisco and New Orleans. Everywhere else is Cleveland."- Tennessee Williams

 

 

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Great review again!

I think it’s a hard pass for me with the Osram. Like Mattlward, on a practical level I’m struggling to imagine a good use case for this, although maybe some HVAC and elevator situations it could come in handy, perhaps rough electric/construction at times…maybe a fun urban walking light where there is already ambient light around.

Just the other day I discovered something I definitely do not like about the FWAA, and that’s the thin 1mm glass. Coworker gave his an obviously pretty good drop/bash although he doesn’t recall doing it, and the bezel has a small flat spot on it, lens shattered. I’ve had mine apart and I guess didn’t realize it was so thin. The T2 from Convoy uses pretty much the same lens (unless a tenth of a millimeter matters between the two). I think I’d rather suffer the miniscule extra length and loss of transmission for a normal thicker lens. (I tell ya, too, after some dents and dings and having removed some metal in Lumintop’s lights and a couple others, I have to wonder if they’re actually using 6061…certainly doesn’t seem as tough as the typical 6061-T6 that is common in the US and it bends way too easily for that.)

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mattlward wrote:

NOT A STUPID, USELESS, LOW CRI PENCIL BEAM!!! Sad

…(fwaa) I do wish it was a little less flood,


If I understand correctly this rant is solely based on lack of emitter choice…

  

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Do you have any Skilhunt/yajiamei 17mm optics to try in this? Maybe without the glass in place?

A narrow, clear with frosted center TIR and SST20w is what this light should have.

merlot
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Is this 14500 only or does it take AA batteries as well?

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the FWAA wont work on AA, only on 14500

in fact there is presently NO Anduril light that works on AA…

there is one coming.. not sure when yet

mattlward
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pinkpanda3310 wrote:
mattlward wrote:

NOT A STUPID, USELESS, LOW CRI PENCIL BEAM!!! Sad

…(fwaa) I do wish it was a little less flood,


If I understand correctly this rant is solely based on lack of emitter choice…

Yes! I was hoping this would be a good EDC when it was teased. But, the low cri and narrow beam will really hurt the EDC aspect of the light. I have one FWAA that gets into the rotation every now and then, but mainly it is my FW1A. Nice mix of distance and usable spill.

EDC rotation:
FW1A, LH351D 4000k (second favorite)
FW3A, LH351D 3500k
FW3A, SST20 FD2 4000k
FW3A, Nichia 4000k sw40 r9080 (favorite light!)
FW3A, Cree XP-L Hi 5A3
Emisar D4V2, SST20 4000k

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Again, folks, thanks for your comments and I’ll try to reply when/if needed Wink

mattlward wrote:
I went on a rant of FB when this was teased over there… I want to know what point this will serve… why on earth is the sudden goal in the flashlight world to have a pencil beam tiny light with almost no practical use? When this light became a rumor, I was so hoping for an LH351D, SST-20, 219B, or 5A binned XP-L HD or HI.

I guess the “pratical use” of this flashlight is no different from many other that have been put out by several brands for a while now. It produces light and it’s main purpose will be to light the dark Wink
I do agree, as pointed above, that a different LED & reflector combination could make it more practical, though. The FW1AA I “made” with TIR and LH351D is more useful at closer range, but it doesn’t throw as far as this one. And I guess that may be a “spot” if this flashlight: mid range for short bursts, not super close nor super far range for long periods.

mattlward wrote:
I have to be able to see 24 gauge copper wire colors on the back of patch panels and colored buffer tubes on 144 and 288 strand fibers. My current EDC is an FW1A with a 4000k LH351D and I was hoping like hell that the more compact FWAA would have a good hi cri emitter with a useful beam… NOT A STUPID, USELESS, LOW CRI PENCIL BEAM!!! Sad

I guess our hopes an expectations sometimes need to suffer adaptations according to what the marker gives to us. Eventually the SP10 version will be better than this one for your purposes Wink

mattlward wrote:
Rant over, will I try one? Likely I will relent and end up with one. Compared to 6 FW3A’s all with different LED’s and 3 FW1A’s also all different.

I have one FWAA with SST-20’s @ 4000k, really like it. I do wish it was a little less flood, but that is expected with a tiny triple, thus the high expectations for this little light.


I guess that if LT comes with a 3535 board, our hopes and expectations will increase, since then we are able to mod the flashlight Wink and give it a proper High CRI Led Wink

I still hope for that , too Wink

————-

@ Light Veteran: Thank you

————-

BOO5TED wrote:
LH351D, OP reflector and a non crap clip and I’d be all over this.

Hopefully a reflector that avoids the tint shifts from some LH351Ds, or a LED that doesn’t produce them.

————-

Correllux wrote:

[…].maybe a fun urban walking light where there is already ambient light around.

Thanks Correlux!!

That is my next try! I will se how this looks like in certain environments during the next days. If I can I will take some photos to show it!

Correllux wrote:
Just the other day I discovered something I definitely do not like about the FWAA, and that’s the thin 1mm glass. Coworker gave his an obviously pretty good drop/bash although he doesn’t recall doing it, and the bezel has a small flat spot on it, lens shattered. I’ve had mine apart and I guess didn’t realize it was so thin. The T2 from Convoy uses pretty much the same lens (unless a tenth of a millimeter matters between the two). I think I’d rather suffer the miniscule extra length and loss of transmission for a normal thicker lens. (I tell ya, too, after some dents and dings and having removed some metal in Lumintop’s lights and a couple others, I have to wonder if they’re actually using 6061…certainly doesn’t seem as tough as the typical 6061-T6 that is common in the US and it bends way too easily for that.)

I can’t say about the aluminium type, but I can say that my FWAAs have felt, get some “chips” but didn’t get any issue with the lens, so far. I still prefer to have a version with the lens, than the solution the FW3A and eventually the EDC18 (???) once had, that was a “proprietary” TIR.
The FW1A, it didn’t fell so far, but if it does, I will tell you about that!

I may open my heart and conduce some more aggressive tests soon Silly

————-

JaredM wrote:
Do you have any Skilhunt/yajiamei 17mm optics to try in this? Maybe without the glass in place?

A narrow, clear with frosted center TIR and SST20w is what this light should have.

I guess I only have the 15mm ones. Can you please point me the 17mm ones?
I can tell, however, that the TIR from the S1R Baton I fits this flashlight. I has a similar type of beam to the S1R, eventually a bit narrower, and with some shifts in the corona. I need to explore it more.

If the TIR is tall, it won’t fit for sure, since the reflector is also short.

————-

merlot wrote:
Is this 14500 only or does it take AA batteries as well?

Nop. As jon_slider mentioned, this only takes 14500.

I am using an unprotected button top Vapcel H10 on mine.

jon_slider
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> I guess that if LT comes with a 3535 board, our hopes and expectations will increase

is it not possible to just swap out the mcpcb?

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jon_slider wrote:
> I guess that if LT comes with a 3535 board, our hopes and expectations will increase

is it not possible to just swap out the mcpcb?

I’m fully confident I can swap the star if needed.

I may need to file down the edges of the replacement star. Possibly file a slot or drill a hole for the alignment screw. And I might need to stack disks of copper sheet underneath to make the replacement the right thickness. But I’m confident I can do it.

MascaratumB
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Firelight2 wrote:
jon_slider wrote:
> I guess that if LT comes with a 3535 board, our hopes and expectations will increase

is it not possible to just swap out the mcpcb?

I’m fully confident I can swap the star if needed.

I may need to file down the edges of the replacement star. Possibly file a slot or drill a hole for the alignment screw. And I might need to stack disks of copper sheet underneath to make the replacement the right thickness. But I’m confident I can do it.

I have to check if I have a small one (10mm) from KD, and see if it would fit.
I will tell later on Wink

Other than that, given the structure/inner shape of the head/hole, I guess I would not be able to mod it.

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MascaratumB wrote:
Firelight2 wrote:
jon_slider wrote:
> I guess that if LT comes with a 3535 board, our hopes and expectations will increase

is it not possible to just swap out the mcpcb?

I’m fully confident I can swap the star if needed.

I may need to file down the edges of the replacement star. Possibly file a slot or drill a hole for the alignment screw. And I might need to stack disks of copper sheet underneath to make the replacement the right thickness. But I’m confident I can do it.

I have to check if I have a small one (10mm) from KD, and see if it would fit.
I will tell later on Wink

Other than that, given the structure/inner shape of the head/hole, I guess I would not be able to mod it.

Yup, would likely have to deal with a small hole in the reflector. I have a few copper mcpcb’s with 219b’s on them, should fit.

EDC rotation:
FW1A, LH351D 4000k (second favorite)
FW3A, LH351D 3500k
FW3A, SST20 FD2 4000k
FW3A, Nichia 4000k sw40 r9080 (favorite light!)
FW3A, Cree XP-L Hi 5A3
Emisar D4V2, SST20 4000k

jon_slider
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> would likely have to deal with a small hole in the reflector

you can do it Thumbs Up

the small hole is only in the centering ring.. easy fix
.

mattlward
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Jon, do you think there would be room between the wires and the emitter for a 3535 footprint and some kind of centering ring?

EDC rotation:
FW1A, LH351D 4000k (second favorite)
FW3A, LH351D 3500k
FW3A, SST20 FD2 4000k
FW3A, Nichia 4000k sw40 r9080 (favorite light!)
FW3A, Cree XP-L Hi 5A3
Emisar D4V2, SST20 4000k

dave1010
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If a 3535 LED was too big then would a Nichia E21A fit and be any good in 1 of these instead? Not as bright but you could get a much nicer tint and CRI.

Firelight2
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dave1010 wrote:
If a 3535 LED was too big then would a Nichia E21A fit and be any good in 1 of these instead? Not as bright but you could get a much nicer tint and CRI.

3535 should fit just fine.

There are dozens of lights with narrower bezels that work perfectly and give very useful beams with 3535 stars (Eagletac DC25A, Sofirn SP10b, Lumintop Tool AA, etc.).

The problem isn’t the fit… rather it is Lumintop’s choice to go with a 3030 star that fits Oslon White 1 emitters and nothing else.

I’m sure an E21A would fit and work fine… but you would need to do the following:

  • Find an appropriate star that fits an E21A and then mod the star to fit inside the light.
  • E21A can’t tolerate high currents. You may need to mod the driver or firmware to limit output.

Scallywag
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What’s the MCPCB size?

mattlward
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I do have E21A’s… the star will be the issue. I think I could fit one in the odd cavity and would have to clear mask and then solder in a place that is not a solder tab. But, the output would be disappointing for an EDC. Gonna have to think on it a bit. Not having the light in hand, I am not sure what the opening in the base of the reflector looks like. May just have to come up with one to try and frankenlight it. I do love the form factor of the FWAA that I have, but it is just to much flood for some applications. Charging every other day to save pocket space is not an issue.

EDC rotation:
FW1A, LH351D 4000k (second favorite)
FW3A, LH351D 3500k
FW3A, SST20 FD2 4000k
FW3A, Nichia 4000k sw40 r9080 (favorite light!)
FW3A, Cree XP-L Hi 5A3
Emisar D4V2, SST20 4000k

thefreeman
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Eurekatronix/Clemence has a 10mm MCPCB for E21A and E17A , very high perf dielectric and can do 4A :

Still going to need a regulated driver, I just ordered boards for a FWAA buck driver and I was looking forward to this FW1AA but the weird MCPCB/shelf design is just very disappointing.

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