I think the aux current draw is fine. Use low if you want an always-on locator beacon. Use high if you want to illuminate your surroundings. With two possible levels, this is a good compromise.
I agree with this mindset. This is exactly what I do with my Emisar, Noctigon, and FireFlies lights. High aux If I want them as literal auxiliary lighting at night, and low auxiliaries level (which is what I use on 90% of my lights 90% of the time) for a locater at night.
gotta have your cake and eat it too! Can't have that pretty, bright auxiliary light without some drain. And yea that reported drain is pretty darn high (on aux high mode), but changing resistor values for different color auxiliary LEDs is not a reasonable expectation of the manufacturer in my opinion. They could just do a lower value, and then half the customers would be dissatisfied that they aux are too low. So it's a lose-lose situation for Wurkkos. But I'm happy with the results. Well, I think I will be . I have seen the light in person yet lol.
If people *want* raw nekkid Al without any coating, hey, I'm not gonna stop anyone
Also, anyone can take their anodized aluminum light and just immerse it in a cup of Greased Lightning from their local hardware store for a few hours. Result: all the anodizing is gone! And do this mod while the light is assembled (after checking the o-rings and removing the battery of course), then only the anodizing on the outside of the light should be gone. Anodizing inside the light should still be intact.
this is a great tip! I've never de-anodized a light. But I like the method you talk about. Keeping it together so interior anodizing is intact
The current of the aux LED can be adjusted. we just thought it looks need brighter on high, so the current is adjusted relatively large.
If you want it to be less bright in the high-brightness gear, the current can be adjusted down.
Brighter looks prettier?
That makes sense. Thank you for explaining the intent.
And it sounds like other members like the idea as well, so it was a good choice.
8 days to arrive, pretty quick! Color temp is definitely on the cooler side, but the tint seems fine, imo. Would love to see a lower CCT version in the future
Got mine, actually love the tint! But, for the life of me I cannot set an autolock timer. In advanced, locked out and 10H does nothing. What am I doing wrong? Also, any firmware updates for the aux leds on when main light is on? Did not see a hex file on TK’s site.
8 days to arrive, pretty quick! Color temp is definitely on the cooler side, but the tint seems fine, imo. Would love to see a lower CCT version in the future
Already available for preorder on Aliexpress in 4000K with black or red body and one new aux color (green). Looks like you can order but they won’t be ready until the 20th. I haven’t even seen mine yet (it’s in my mailbox) but I still may order a red one in 4000K.
I found this on the threads in the head of my light, like the drill bit was tilted… in 2 places. Screws on ok, but still… Still can’t get auto lock enabled. Does the stock firmware even have it?
Finally got autolock on… button must be pressed very squarely to take accurate counts. I really love it and am thrilled by the first 6000k that I like!
I found this on the threads in the head of my light, like the drill bit was tilted… in 2 places. Screws on ok, but still… Still can’t get auto lock enabled. Does the stock firmware even have it?
Also, any firmware updates for the aux leds on when main light is on? Did not see a hex file on TK’s site.
Not officially, Toykeeper probably wasn’t even involved in the development of the TS10. I have made my own hex that fixes this issue and can share it if anyone wants it. It is basically just sofirn-sp36-t1616 with a single line of the code commented out.
Also, any firmware updates for the aux leds on when main light is on? Did not see a hex file on TK’s site.
Not officially, Toykeeper probably wasn’t even involved in the development of the TS10. I have made my own hex that fixes this issue and can share it if anyone wants it. It is basically just sofirn-sp36-t1616 with a single line of the code commented out.
Is any other problem happen when line of the code commented out?
we now use the same firmware as sp10 pro
Finally got autolock on… button must be pressed very squarely to take accurate counts. I really love it and am thrilled by the first 6000k that I like!
Looking at your edc rotation I am relieved to read that. Maybe it’s that high cri.
Finally got autolock on… button must be pressed very squarely to take accurate counts. I really love it and am thrilled by the first 6000k that I like!
Looking at your edc rotation I am relieved to read that. Maybe it’s that high cri.
The big thing that feels different to me is the lack of blue and glare. The cri does not hurt either. At high drive the Duv actually goes ever so slightly negative as well!
Can those of you who have the light post some pictures? Specifically:
What does the button look like?
Beam and beam pattern?
Side-by-side with an FWAA – based on the picture someone posted with an SP10Pro I think this Wurrkos is shorter than an FWAA, but it would be nice to have a side-by-side photo to compare.
Also, any firmware updates for the aux leds on when main light is on? Did not see a hex file on TK’s site.
Not officially, Toykeeper probably wasn’t even involved in the development of the TS10. I have made my own hex that fixes this issue and can share it if anyone wants it. It is basically just sofirn-sp36-t1616 with a single line of the code commented out.
Does the board need to be removed in order to flash? or can it be done while in place?
Also, any firmware updates for the aux leds on when main light is on? Did not see a hex file on TK’s site.
Not officially, Toykeeper probably wasn’t even involved in the development of the TS10. I have made my own hex that fixes this issue and can share it if anyone wants it. It is basically just sofirn-sp36-t1616 with a single line of the code commented out.
Does the board need to be removed in order to flash? or can it be done while in place?
No, you have access to the flashing pads after removing the battery tube.
thanks for the photo of the TS10 flashing pads (I used a clip of your pic below).. looks like they will work with the TTL Pogo adapter that gchart made for the SP10 Pro…
.
note the TTL is modded by gchart, it is not stock
zumlin wrote:
mattlward wrote:
…firmware updates for the aux leds…
…I have made my own hex that fixes this issue and can share it if anyone wants it.
I would like it please.. should I pm you my email? might be good to give it to Wurkkos too
US $19.99 30%OFF | Wurkkos TS10 Mini Powerful Flashlight 90 CRI 3* CSP +3* Aux LED Emitter 1400lm Anduril 2 Pocket Torch Waterproof EDC for Hiking https://a.aliexpress.com/_mK5sswE
They are releasing a new host color(red) and a ww LED for all those who were turned off by the limited new product release.
Wurkkos is really listening us as enthusiasts. Treat them with the respect they deserve
Here is the link to the custom hex file which fixed the aux led bug. It is built on the latest revision 650, so I labelled the firmware version 202204290614.
I agree with this mindset. This is exactly what I do with my Emisar, Noctigon, and FireFlies lights. High aux If I want them as literal auxiliary lighting at night, and low auxiliaries level (which is what I use on 90% of my lights 90% of the time) for a locater at night.
gotta have your cake and eat it too! Can't have that pretty, bright auxiliary light without some drain. And yea that reported drain is pretty darn high (on aux high mode), but changing resistor values for different color auxiliary LEDs is not a reasonable expectation of the manufacturer in my opinion. They could just do a lower value, and then half the customers would be dissatisfied that they aux are too low. So it's a lose-lose situation for Wurkkos. But I'm happy with the results. Well, I think I will be . I have seen the light in person yet lol.
[FLF] Five Light Friday https://budgetlightforum.com/node/78749
Check out some of my new lights (picture heavy) and quick first impressions of them here: https://budgetlightforum.com/node/77180
My Sft40 beamshots / comparison thread: https://budgetlightforum.com/node/78100
The BLF GT with SFT40 (2300lm, 2700m+ @ 30 seconds!)
https://budgetlightforum.com/node/79561
this is a great tip! I've never de-anodized a light. But I like the method you talk about. Keeping it together so interior anodizing is intact
[FLF] Five Light Friday https://budgetlightforum.com/node/78749
Check out some of my new lights (picture heavy) and quick first impressions of them here: https://budgetlightforum.com/node/77180
My Sft40 beamshots / comparison thread: https://budgetlightforum.com/node/78100
The BLF GT with SFT40 (2300lm, 2700m+ @ 30 seconds!)
https://budgetlightforum.com/node/79561
Mine made it from China to California in an impressive 7 days, so it’s getting close!
"Hold tight and pretend it's a plan!” -- The Doctor / / / EDC: ZebraLight SC64c LE (LH351D 4000K CRI 90) or Malkoff MDC 16650 (SST-20 4000K CRI 95)
That makes sense. Thank you for explaining the intent.
And it sounds like other members like the idea as well, so it was a good choice.
Mine is waiting for me at home! Want work to end now!
EDC rotation:
KR4, SST-20 FA3 4000k (favorite!)
FW3A, Nichia 4000k sw40 r9080 (second favorite)
FW1A, LH351D 3500k (third favorite)
FW1A, XP-L Hi 3A
FW3A, LH351D 3500k
FW3A, SST20 FD2 4000k
FW3A, Cree XP-L Hi 5A3
Emisar D4V2, SST20 4000k
Emisar D4V2, brass E21A 3500k (night light of choice)
8 days to arrive, pretty quick! Color temp is definitely on the cooler side, but the tint seems fine, imo. Would love to see a lower CCT version in the future
Got mine, actually love the tint! But, for the life of me I cannot set an autolock timer. In advanced, locked out and 10H does nothing. What am I doing wrong? Also, any firmware updates for the aux leds on when main light is on? Did not see a hex file on TK’s site.
EDC rotation:
KR4, SST-20 FA3 4000k (favorite!)
FW3A, Nichia 4000k sw40 r9080 (second favorite)
FW1A, LH351D 3500k (third favorite)
FW1A, XP-L Hi 3A
FW3A, LH351D 3500k
FW3A, SST20 FD2 4000k
FW3A, Cree XP-L Hi 5A3
Emisar D4V2, SST20 4000k
Emisar D4V2, brass E21A 3500k (night light of choice)
Already available for preorder on Aliexpress in 4000K with black or red body and one new aux color (green). Looks like you can order but they won’t be ready until the 20th. I haven’t even seen mine yet (it’s in my mailbox) but I still may order a red one in 4000K.
I found this on the threads in the head of my light, like the drill bit was tilted… in 2 places. Screws on ok, but still… Still can’t get auto lock enabled. Does the stock firmware even have it?
EDC rotation:
KR4, SST-20 FA3 4000k (favorite!)
FW3A, Nichia 4000k sw40 r9080 (second favorite)
FW1A, LH351D 3500k (third favorite)
FW1A, XP-L Hi 3A
FW3A, LH351D 3500k
FW3A, SST20 FD2 4000k
FW3A, Cree XP-L Hi 5A3
Emisar D4V2, SST20 4000k
Emisar D4V2, brass E21A 3500k (night light of choice)
Finally got autolock on… button must be pressed very squarely to take accurate counts. I really love it and am thrilled by the first 6000k that I like!
EDC rotation:
KR4, SST-20 FA3 4000k (favorite!)
FW3A, Nichia 4000k sw40 r9080 (second favorite)
FW1A, LH351D 3500k (third favorite)
FW1A, XP-L Hi 3A
FW3A, LH351D 3500k
FW3A, SST20 FD2 4000k
FW3A, Cree XP-L Hi 5A3
Emisar D4V2, SST20 4000k
Emisar D4V2, brass E21A 3500k (night light of choice)
That is normal. The PCB has a small tab for alignment and the cutout is required to put it in. Many Sofirn/Wurkkos flashlights have it.
Not officially, Toykeeper probably wasn’t even involved in the development of the TS10. I have made my own hex that fixes this issue and can share it if anyone wants it. It is basically just sofirn-sp36-t1616 with a single line of the code commented out.
Is any other problem happen when line of the code commented out?
we now use the same firmware as sp10 pro
www.wurkkos.com
Wurkkos Facebook giveaway/review Group
Wurkkos Deals Group
Wurkkos Facebook page
Wurkkos Amazon US store
Wurkkos Amazon DE store
Wurkkos Amazon UK store
Wurkkos Amazon FR store
Wurkkos Amazon IT store
Wurkkos Amazon ES store
Wurkkos Amazon JP store
Wurkkos Amazon CA store
Wurkkos Aliexpress Store
Wurkkos walmart Store
The SP10 Pro firmware has special code for the 1.5 V support and the boost regulator. Not sure if that is a good idea.
LEDs while the flashlight is on can be disabled by adding this line to the configuration:
OPS, sorry, the firmware is sp36 pro
www.wurkkos.com
Wurkkos Facebook giveaway/review Group
Wurkkos Deals Group
Wurkkos Facebook page
Wurkkos Amazon US store
Wurkkos Amazon DE store
Wurkkos Amazon UK store
Wurkkos Amazon FR store
Wurkkos Amazon IT store
Wurkkos Amazon ES store
Wurkkos Amazon JP store
Wurkkos Amazon CA store
Wurkkos Aliexpress Store
Wurkkos walmart Store
Looking at your edc rotation I am relieved to read that. Maybe it’s that high cri.
I was too slow on the first batch
The big thing that feels different to me is the lack of blue and glare. The cri does not hurt either. At high drive the Duv actually goes ever so slightly negative as well!
It really is nice!
EDC rotation:
KR4, SST-20 FA3 4000k (favorite!)
FW3A, Nichia 4000k sw40 r9080 (second favorite)
FW1A, LH351D 3500k (third favorite)
FW1A, XP-L Hi 3A
FW3A, LH351D 3500k
FW3A, SST20 FD2 4000k
FW3A, Cree XP-L Hi 5A3
Emisar D4V2, SST20 4000k
Emisar D4V2, brass E21A 3500k (night light of choice)
Can those of you who have the light post some pictures? Specifically:
Mine just arrived ,11 days to uk , super fast delivery.
I like it very much ,Its smaller than I expected ,good to hold waisted machining makes it easy to hold and doesn’t slip from your grip.
Button grey anodised alloy ,I guess ,nice feel ,positive slightly firm click ,probably nicer button feel than original FW3a.
Tint is cool white but I like that!!! That said it’s not blue ,cool white is not what it used to be!
Never had a reverse clip and didn’t think I would like it ,not being a cap wearer ,but it’s Ok and will keep it on the light.
Aux lights in lens ,Again never had that , I like them ,were set on high out of the box ,set them to low ,better for me.
Anyone know what chemistry the battery supplied with it is? Wurkkos branded 900mah.
Beam profile very close to FW3a
It gets hot quick ,but it would it’s tiny!
Overall very happy with it , especially at the price point.
TS10 with popular lights for size comparison
This sounds very promising.
One of the issues with the FWAA is the beam profile is too floody. Sounds like Wurrkos might have a real winner on their hands!
Does the board need to be removed in order to flash? or can it be done while in place?
No, you have access to the flashing pads after removing the battery tube.
.
I would like it please.. should I pm you my email? might be good to give it to Wurkkos toonote the TTL is modded by gchart, it is not stock
High CRI lights for sale
I have the programmer for the kr4 that was stolen from my house… Would that work?
The KR4 programmer will not work. The MCU uses a different programming interface and protocol.
EDC rotation:
KR4, SST-20 FA3 4000k (favorite!)
FW3A, Nichia 4000k sw40 r9080 (second favorite)
FW1A, LH351D 3500k (third favorite)
FW1A, XP-L Hi 3A
FW3A, LH351D 3500k
FW3A, SST20 FD2 4000k
FW3A, Cree XP-L Hi 5A3
Emisar D4V2, SST20 4000k
Emisar D4V2, brass E21A 3500k (night light of choice)
US $19.99 30%OFF | Wurkkos TS10 Mini Powerful Flashlight 90 CRI 3* CSP +3* Aux LED Emitter 1400lm Anduril 2 Pocket Torch Waterproof EDC for Hiking
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mK5sswE
They are releasing a new host color(red) and a ww LED for all those who were turned off by the limited new product release.
Wurkkos is really listening us as enthusiasts. Treat them with the respect they deserve
Here is the link to the custom hex file which fixed the aux led bug. It is built on the latest revision 650, so I labelled the firmware version 202204290614.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1do_fs9XNHlG0YSOvYoseu9_-pIms0V6p/view?u...
High CRI lights for sale
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