【Brass on Sale】Wurkkos TS10 "slender waist" 14500 triple LEDs Light with Anduril 2.0

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starryalley
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I’ve tried with this dynamic PWM config which works fine for me (with limited tests)
level_calc.py 5.01 2 150 7135 1 0.1 150 FET 1 10 1200 —pwm dyn:64:4096:255

16384 doesn’t look good to my eyes but maybe it’s just me.
The lows are comparable with SP10 pro! I haven’t experimented with dynamic underclocking settings though. So far I’m happy so I’ll use this setting for a few days and see.

jon_slider
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Received Red 4000K TS10 w Red Aux, ordered 6/20
It is the correct 4000K CCT, and the Tint is nice. Color rendering seems great too. The Aux LEDs still turn on with the main LEDs, the firmware is not updated. I dont mind the Aux on w the main LED, and did not expect the light to have the LVP patch yet.

I suggest Not using Aux on High 24/7,

there is no LVP on the Aux lights,
if using High Aux 24/7 suggest use a protected battery to prevent overdischarge

The TS10 is a cute little light, the beam focus and profile is very nice, and the Tint and CRI are Great on both CCT offered so far. I like the host w centered waistline, and the switch resistance and feel is good imo.

Sudsy
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Thanks for that update, jon_slider!
I’m relieved to see the 4000k tint on your example. Thumbs Up

RavenII
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jon_slider wrote:
Received Red 4000K TS10 w Red Aux, ordered 6/20 It is the correct 4000K CCT, and the Tint is nice. Color rendering seems great too. The Aux LEDs still turn on with the main LEDs, the firmware is not updated. I dont mind the Aux on w the main LED, and did not expect the light to have the LVP patch yet.

Greaattt….mine is most definitely NOT 4000k…now that it’s night time, it is exactly the same color as my 5800k….crap.

Unheard
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thefreeman wrote:

Interesting detail, the body caries the switch signal and the inner tube the cell minus.

Edit : that’s why it doesn’t need any spring load so that both tube make good contact, the switch ring on the front (component side) always makes good contact against the head thanks to the screw pressing the driver onto the shelf (they could also have used a retaining ring), tube/head connection is made by the non anodised threads. The tube is screwed down until the inner tube (batt-) makes contact.
It also means it can be physically locked out.


I wonder why FW* and KR* lights work different. Are there any disadvantages with Wurkkos design?

Spitzbube.

thefreeman
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KRx have a spring for the signal tube/ driver contact, the FWAA also have some spring load at the tail, hence why they don’t have the contact issues the FWxA have.
With Wurkkos design the outer ring of the driver can’t be GND, it’s a bit inconvenient driver design wise (less usable space, fine for FET+1, less so for switching drivers).

jon_slider
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thefreeman wrote:
It also means it can be physically locked out.
Physical lockout does not work for me.

I tried to lock out by unscrewing the head until the Aux lights turn off (I have them set to On Low).

When I press the tailbutton the main LEDs still come on.

a couple more observations about defaults
1. Light arrives in Advanced w a floor of 1/150 (0.2 lumens), ceiling seems to be 120/150 (600 lumens), turbo is 1000 lumens (my meter reads low). Aux are set to High, I changed them to Low. Memory is set to 100 lumens, with >10 <15 minute last mode memory (hybrid memory). I changed the manual memory to 1/150.

2. In Simple UI floor is 1 lumen, ceiling is 150/150. I changed ceiling to 100/150 (285 lumens), and floor to 1/150 (0.2 lumens)

thefreeman
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jon_slider wrote:

I tried to lock out by unscrewing the head until the Aux lights turn off (I have them set to On Low).

When I press the tailbutton the main LEDs still come on.

They come on (low and flickering) because some ground current leaks through the switch pin, but they come off once the button is released. KR1 is the same when locked out.

jon_slider
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thefreeman wrote:
They come on (low and flickering) because some ground current leaks through the switch pin, but they come off once the button is released. KR1 is the same when locked out.
got it, yes, the switch becomes momentary when the head is unscrewed enough to turn off Aux. Thank you Beer

observation
I tried 4C lockout on my Red TS10, it changes the Aux lights to blinking. (Hate Blinkies.. must Kill)… ok, in advanced, in lockout, 7C controls the aux setting… so I Win, NOOOO Blinking.

Begin Anti Blinking Rant:
One thing I REALLY Like about the TS10 is it has
NO Blinking in the Ramp
Unfortunately, for me, both the FWAA and the latest SP10 Pro have Blinking Ramps.. Hate it.

There should be an Epileptic Setting.. Nooo Ramping Blinkies (ask me how I really feel about UnRequested Blinkies in the Ramp, that cannot be turned off by the operator…)
End Rant

gman9
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walmart listing is now 25$ w/ battery (it’s still out of stock.)
haven’t seen it on amazon yet. hope it’s around that price too, i’ll buy it from there and if i get a wrong tint i’ll be able to send it back with amazon returns.
been interesting to see the updates. thanks for the information everyone.

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Got my 4000K TS10s today. Very nice. I like this color temp better than the cool white version, though both are nice.

Sudsy
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I also got the 4000k I’ve been waiting for today. The color temperature and tint are very nice in my opinion. I chose the red anodizing and it’s attractive and vibrant. I hope to someday learn to update the version of Anduril myself.

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Comparing the anodizing between the 3 available colors, the silver anodizing feels slightly rougher in texture. It’s a bit like the white anodizing used on the Emisar D4.

This makes a little less slippery compared to the red or black anodizing.

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Photo from Facebook..

SammysHP
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Yay, that looks awesome!

Mine in silver and 4000 K arrived today. The tint is amazing!

I’ve played a bit with dynamic PWM and got a really low low with usable lower steps. I’ve limited the PWM top to 2048 as higher values didn’t make much difference, but reduced the frequency unnecessarily. I had some trouble with visible steps from dynamic underclocking. Also it seems like the 7135 drops out of regulation at low levels because the pulse got too short. Will check next days with my oscilloscope and share the config file afterwards.

Jan910
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What device / adapter to update fw?  0.04 lm wow

Wurkkos ts10 Black + silver 5800k
Wizard pro xp-l
Kd8.2 xhp50.2 2700k
Fw3a xpl hi 5000k
S2+ lh351d 5000k
S2+ x-pl 6500k
S2+ sst10 UV 365nm
S2+ xp-e2 620nm
Sofirn d25LR
Wurkkos ts21 219 Red

gchart
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Jan910 wrote:

What device / adapter to update fw?  0.04 lm wow


It’s Atmel’s UDPI programming. More info about it in my thread here. Programmers for it aren’t too common. You essentially need a common USB to Serial TTL adapter and then a pogo-pin adapter to mate up to the flashing pads. I make (and sell) some but shipping from the US is expensive. Check with thefreeman as he’s in Europe and might be able to help out.
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gchart wrote:
Jan910 wrote:

What device / adapter to update fw?  0.04 lm wow

It's Atmel's UDPI programming. More info about it in my "thread here":https://budgetlightforum.com/node/66272. Programmers for it aren't too common. You essentially need a common USB to Serial TTL adapter and then "a pogo-pin adapter":https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/4DS46BqS to mate up to the flashing pads. I make (and sell) some but shipping from the US is expensive. Check with "thefreeman":https://budgetlightforum.com/user/34452 as he's in Europe and might be able to help out.

 

Thx a lot !!!

Wurkkos ts10 Black + silver 5800k
Wizard pro xp-l
Kd8.2 xhp50.2 2700k
Fw3a xpl hi 5000k
S2+ lh351d 5000k
S2+ x-pl 6500k
S2+ sst10 UV 365nm
S2+ xp-e2 620nm
Sofirn d25LR
Wurkkos ts21 219 Red

jon_slider
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MAX-MX wrote:
Photo from Facebook..
thanks for the Brass TS10 prototype photo.. Maybe they will also make a Red Copper version.

The Chinese word for Copper (Tóng) includes Brass

White Copper: Bái Tóng, German Silver, Alpaca, Copper Zinc Nickel
Yellow Copper: Huáng Tóng, Brass, Copper Zinc
Red Copper: Hóng Tóng, Pure Copper
Purple Copper: Zǐ Tóng, Bornite, Copper Iron Sulfide
Green Copper: Qīng Tóng, Bronze, Copper Nickel

MoreHiCRILumens
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Was there side by side beamshots? Both CCT’s in same picture.

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Lightbringer wrote:
If you got a dremel with a fine ball-type “dentist drill” bit, you can lightly lightly lightly grind away at the resistor that limits current to the aux LEDs. The more you “hourglass” it narrower, the higher the resistance and lower the current.

Test, repeat as needed. Tedious, unless you wanna measure the resistance first, then decide on a target resistance, then grind, remeasure, regrind, remeasure, etc.

 

Think of it as the opposite of The Pencil Trick.

Great modding tip Lightbringer!

Hopefully I’ll never need to fine-tune an SMD resistor this way, but good to know that it’s possible. Thumbs Up

I’d rather use my flashlight around the house than turn on the lights.

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Yep, I’m wonderful. LOL

09 F9 11 02 9D 74 E3 5B D8 41 56 C5 63 56 88 C0

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Wurkkos Terry wrote:
Wurkkos Terry wrote:
We have ordered one set of new H10. It should be available tomorrow.
Then ready to find the specific reasons for this problem through a large number of samples collection.

Hi BLFers,

Wurkkos laboratory confirms to me after repeated testing that Vapcell H10 will not cause TS10 to damage.
The following video is Terry’s personal borrowing two H10 from my laboratory partner to personally confirm the report that can be used normally.
The previously CSP2323 be destroyed, there was a high probability with quality issues.
Link: https://youtu.be/qTyBbwo700w

Hope my report could help with you.

If have TS10 be destroyed earlier, please PM me.
Terry will send the new TS10 and some CSP2323 for replacement immediately, so that you could conduct a testing new.

Best reagrds,
Terry

Terry, thanks for going to the effort to address concerns! Do you know if the light was tested with H10 while using turbo repeatedly? I think the previous events/concerns had more to do with excessive heat caused by continuously forcing the light into turbo mode after it had stepped down, so the light was running hotter than it usually would, for longer periods than what is shown in the video. I’ve been using mine with H10 and trying to keep it hot, but not excessively, and so far so good…if it fails I’ll just consider it a donation to science. Smile

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SammysHP wrote:
I’ve played a bit with dynamic PWM and got a really low low with usable lower steps. I’ve limited the PWM top to 2048 as higher values didn’t make much difference, but reduced the frequency unnecessarily. I had some trouble with visible steps from dynamic underclocking. Also it seems like the 7135 drops out of regulation at low levels because the pulse got too short. Will check next days with my oscilloscope and share the config file afterwards.

Well, just what I had expected. Sad

I used this ramp:
level_calc.py 7.01 2 150 7135 1 0.5 130 FET 1 10 1200 —pwm dyn:64:2048:255

First, the lowest level can be really low. I mean, ZebraLight low. Problem: It’s all in the undefined behavior region of the 7135 because the pulse length is just too short.

Here is an example ramping through levels 1 to ~45:

Level 2 is darker than level 1 because the frequency is doubled (dynamic underclocking, quarter speed below 2). There is another jump from level 4 to 5, again dynamic underclocking (half speed below 5). Then it starts increasing, but in an undefined ramp shape. At level 45 the 7135 starts turning fully on (maybe a bit earlier because my light sensor is too slow).

What’s next? I might try to start at level 16 where the slope changes. That might be the point where the error of my light sensor is most influencing. Or it’s just the non-linearity of the 7135. From there I might add one or two “special” levels with ultra low moonlight and from level three upwards it will be lot brighter, but more reliable. Not sure what to do with dynamic underclocking…

Anyone with an idea how this could be set up in a nice way? ToyKeeper, gchart, thefreeman?

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So, now that Wurkkos has found out the emitters actually shouldn't die with a high drain cell, is a linear driver still on the table or nah? Cause I just want that linear driver for slightly higher efficiency and that smooth, smooth ramp. 7135 also seems to be somewhat unstable and it varies from one part to the next... I haven't bought any TS10 yet because I was waiting for the linear driver upgrade :/

gchart
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SammysHP wrote:
Anyone with an idea how this could be set up in a nice way? ToyKeeper, gchart, thefreeman?

Nice test! I’m a bit torn about be dynamic underclocking. We same a few mA of current draw from the reduced clock speed, but at the cost of slower PWM and some minor inconsistency in the ramp output. It’s all in the trade-offs. So what do we value more?
  • Lower lows with lower power consumption but slower PWM?
  • Lower lows with higher power consumption but faster PWM?
  • Higher lows with lower power consumption and faster PWM?

jon_slider
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gchart wrote:

  • Lower lows with higher power consumption but faster PWM?

yes…

fwiw, the floor on TS10 and SC21 Pro and FWAA is 0.2 lumens

the floor on the SP10 Pro is 0.01 lumens.
Does that have higher power consumption but faster PWM?

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Just curious. I know that much of this discussion is about just seeing what can be done with the software, but of what use is having an ultra low output.
I personally find that the 0.2 lumen output is pretty useless. Even at night from sleep with fully dark adapted vision. I have set the floor on my TS10 to be level 5 of 150 which is about as low as I can go and still get enough light to see anything. Just a sincere question…

Maybe this question would be a good one for a dedicated thread ??

shirnask
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Mandrake50 wrote:
Just curious. I know that much of this discussion is about just seeing what can be done with the software, but of what use is having an ultra low output.
I personally find that the 0.2 lumen output is pretty useless. Even at night from sleep with fully dark adapted vision. I have set the floor on my TS10 to be level 5 of 150 which is about as low as I can go and still get enough light to see anything. Just a sincere question…

Maybe this question would be a good one for a dedicated thread ??

For me the 0.2 lumen output of the SC21 Pro is too much in the middle of the night with dark adapted vision. It takes very little light to completely disrupt my sleep and I have arranged to sleep in near total darkness. The SP10 Pro at 0.01 lumens is actually more light than I need to get to the bathroom.

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OK, I think I made some progress. Problem is that we should keep the pulse time above ~10 µs if we want to use the 7135 in the proper region. This can be achieved only if we increase the start PWM value or underclock the MCU long enough.

This is my configuration from my previous test:

As you can see, many low levels have too short pulses and will cause non-linearity.

With some ramp tuning, starting with PWM 10 and increasing frequency divider to about 12/22 it looks better, but I haven’t tested it on the flashlight yet. Sadly I don’t have more time today (and maybe until next weekend).

Btw. the stock configuration is deep in the non-linear region as well. This affects most if not all 7135 lights using Anduril.

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