【Brass on Sale】Wurkkos TS10 "slender waist" 14500 triple LEDs Light with Anduril 2.0

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Firelight2
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One other observation:

the positive driver wire on the TS10’s star is not isolated from the star’s copper substrate. I wonder if the star is DTP under the positive pad of each led.

Maybe this is how they decent heatsinking despite using LEDs that have no dedicated central heatsink pad.

Perhaps this is also why the switch connection goes through the body tube of the light rather than the negative ground connection like in other similar lights.

jon_slider
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MoreHiCRILumens wrote:
Was there side by side beamshots? Both CCT’s in same picture.
yes, pic is a link to source
Firelight2
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That picture matches my observations.

The cool white 5800K is by far the best cool-white I’ve ever seen. Looks very pure white and has great CRI.

However, at least for my tastes, the 4000K version is better. I find the warmer tint to be more pleasant at night and it has just as good CRI.

RichH
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jon_slider wrote:
Firelight2 wrote:
I don’t think 7C does anything if you are in basic mode.

true, but 4C works in both simple and advanced,

and his report sounds like the light will not lock out on 4C.. it goes disco instead..

Pretty sure I’m factory reset. I removed the head completely quite a few times, let the thing clear it’s head as it were. Did lots of resets, flicker then flash, hold 3 secs. If it’s not in factory mode by now then that doesn’t work either.

4 clicks doesn’t lock the light and allow momentary on, it just puts the aux lights into flashing lo/hi beacon mode. In either the 4C (lockout but not) mode or regular mode the aux cannot be changed with 7C.

When I first fired the thing up yesterday, everything worked fine, even the momentary on. But momentary on had the beacon flash of the aux. 7C didn’t do anything to change it. At the moment it does lock out successfully, but the aux flash can’t be changed, and in normal mode it works as it should but again here, the aux light can’t be changed. Apart from the firmware, I really like it, I’d prefer it ran the original Anduril to be honest.

South Saxon

jon_slider
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RichH wrote:
At the moment it does lock out successfully,

YAY!
what changed?

RichH wrote:
but the aux flash can’t be changed
do 10H from off to go to Advanced mode.

to confirm you are in advanced mode, do 3C from Off. You should see battery voltage blinks, repeating until you switch off.

Then try 7C from off to change Aux levels

If 3C only gives one round of voltage blinks and then stops. The light is in Simple mode, and 7C wont work.

manithree
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jon_slider wrote:
Then try 7C from off to change Aux levels

If 3C only gives one round of voltage blinks and then stops. The light is in Simple mode, and 7C wont work.

I’ve confirmed I’m in advanced mode, and I can change the standby aux level, but that doesn’t affect the aux level for lockout. It’s always at blinking/lightning on mine, no matter what 7C sets the standby aux to. Is 7C from off supposed to affect the lockout aux level?

Limsup
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manithree wrote:
Is 7C from off supposed to affect the lockout aux level?

Maybe you are in momentary mode? 5C from off goes into momentary mode. Nothing works in this mode.

Lockout mode is 4C. I can change the aux level in lockout mode with 7C.

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manithree wrote:
Is 7C from off supposed to affect the lockout aux level?

no
to change aux in lockout you need to be In Lockout (not just off), then do 7C
mattlward
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I have noticed that the button really requires straight on presses. Took me a couple of days to get good at the switch. Change fingers and cadence it will work.

EDC rotation:
KR4, SST-20 FA3 4000k (favorite!)
FW3A, Nichia 4000k sw40 r9080 (second favorite)
FW1A, LH351D 3500k (third favorite)
FW1A, XP-L Hi 3A
FW3A, LH351D 3500k
FW3A, SST20 FD2 4000k
FW3A, Cree XP-L Hi 5A3
Emisar D4V2, SST20 4000k
Emisar D4V2, brass E21A 3500k (night light of choice)

Firelight2
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jon_slider wrote:
manithree wrote:
Is 7C from off supposed to affect the lockout aux level?
no to change aux in lockout you need to be In Lockout (not just off), then do 7C

I think this is the issue.

In my TS10, when I activate lockout I get the blinky beacon mode with aux too. That seems to be the default aux lockout setting.

While the light is locked out and while you’re looking at the aux leds blinking, do a rapid 7 clicks to cycle lockout’s aux led mode.

jon_slider
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yes, its a feature, not a bug Grad

this is the description in the manual

“There is one aux LED mode for the regular Off mode, and another aux LED mode for Lockout mode. This allows the user to see at a glance whether the light is locked.”

Correllux
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Well that was weird. I can…or could…confirm all the symptoms Rich was reporting, except that I had no issues changing aux levels in the normal way. But lots of weirdness with lockout mode in either simple or advanced, and in neither way did lockout actually work as lockout. Some odd flashes after 4C, then a button press would bring on low light, and releasing it would put it back into normal ramping mode as if lockout was never recognized at all. Switched back and forth between platforms, tried different aux levels in both, etc, etc. Then I decided to try momentary mode (in advanced) and that worked just fine. So I removed the head, put it back on, and suddenly everything was totally normal Anduril again…lockout as it should be, etc. I hadn’t tried lockout since I first received the light until reading Rich’s comments this evening, but the last three weeks or whatever all of the features I normally use have worked…normally. After a battery swap sometime last week I did notice that the light had factory reset somehow…not sure how that happened.

It seems that perhaps this light was indeed released too soon and without proper testing….and in this case maybe ToyKeeper should have been consulted first for firmware compatibility with the different hardware/signal approach compared to other lights. With the head aux using switch firmware and the signal polarity reversed, maybe custom tweaking is required. Weird to have an Anduril light not work like Anduril. Smile

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Should add that while the light was wonky and using 3C voltage check in simple mode, I often got a weird flutter/buzz just after the voltage blinks completed. That didn’t happen in advanced but was reproducible in simple. Also got a flutter when trying to enter lockout in either platform but it was intermittent. Whatever it was, taking the head off after momentary seems to have returned everything to normal. Odd. Contacts on the driver and signal tube are clean, light touch of grease on the threads but more toward the o-ring.

starryalley
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SammysHP wrote:

It’s not perfect, but comes without the jumps.

Level 1 uses clock/4 and pulses at 611 Hz for reduced power consumption. All other levels are at 2.9 kHz or above (up to 19.6 kHz at level >64).

The first 25-30 levels are in the non-linear region, but seem to ramp quite OK. I also tried to go even lower and got about 0.001 lm or less, but I don’t think it would be reliable enough (temperature, battery voltage etc). Even with this configuration the ramp shape might change depending on the environment.

Anyway, here you go:

Configuration: https://gist.github.com/SammysHP/5acd7390cba7d252bd304d0cba1e1ea5

Hex: https://cloud.finf.uni-hannover.de/s/YDBbZak4P3oMs2i

The hex comes with some additional features:

  • Two more aux LED patterns: off / low / high / fancy blink / blink low / blink high
  • Aux LED low voltage protection
  • Smoother sunset timer
  • Allow turbo in momentary mode (go to turbo, then to momentary via 5C)
  • PocketUI: Shifts some button mappings from off to make lockout obsolete. Can be enabled via the misc options menu (from off 9H, then 1C to enable or nothing to disable). Changed or new mappings are:
    Mode		UI	Button	Action
    —— — ——— ———
    Off Any 1C Nothing
    Off Any 1H On (momentary floor level)
    Off Any 2C On (ramp mode, memorized level)
    Off Any 2H On (ramp mode, floor level)
    Off Any 3C On (ramp mode, ceiling level)
    Off Simple 3H On (momentary ceiling level)
    Off Full 3H On (momentary turbo)
    Off Any 4C Battcheck mode
    Off Full 4H Strobe mode (whichever was used last)
    Off Any 5C Lockout mode
    Off Full 6C Momentary mode

    Ramp Any 5C Lockout mode
    Ramp Full 6C Momentary mode

    Lockout Any 1C/1H Nothing
    Lockout Any 2C/2H Nothing
    Lockout Any 3C Nothing
    Lockout Any 4C Nothing
    Lockout Any 4H Nothing
    Lockout Any 5C Unlock (go to “Off” mode)

Thanks SammysHP I just tried your ramp setting on mine and it works great! Thank you for the hard work.

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I wonder if it makes sense to merge the new q8-1616 config into the old one and update old targets or if that just causes more confusion. But that’s something for ToyKeeper to decide as the project maintainer.

MoreHiCRILumens
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jon_slider wrote:
MoreHiCRILumens wrote:
Was there side by side beamshots? Both CCT’s in same picture.
yes, pic is a link to source

Thanks. They both are awesome and I still can’t decide which I prefer. Shocked

Jan910
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MoreHiCRILumens wrote:
jon_slider wrote:
MoreHiCRILumens wrote:
Was there side by side beamshots? Both CCT's in same picture.
yes, pic is a link to source "!https://preview.redd.it/ei13vkod8ec91.jpg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=we...!":https://www.reddit.com/r/flashlight/comments/w2ak33/nld_two_ts10s_and_my... Thanks. They both are awesome and I still can't decide which I prefer. :O

 

The solution is simple. 4 flashlights...

Wurkkos ts10 Black + silver 5800k
Wizard pro xp-l
Kd8.2 xhp50.2 2700k
Fw3a xpl hi 5000k
S2+ lh351d 5000k
S2+ x-pl 6500k
S2+ sst10 UV 365nm
S2+ xp-e2 620nm
Sofirn d25LR
Wurkkos ts21 219 Red

RichH
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jon_slider wrote:
RichH wrote:
At the moment it does lock out successfully,

YAY!
what changed?

RichH wrote:
but the aux flash can’t be changed
do 10H from off to go to Advanced mode.

to confirm you are in advanced mode, do 3C from Off. You should see battery voltage blinks, repeating until you switch off.

Then try 7C from off to change Aux levels

If 3C only gives one round of voltage blinks and then stops. The light is in Simple mode, and 7C wont work.

Don’t hold your breath, lockout now doesn’t work. And I haven’t even pressed the button since it was working last night, it’s just decided it’s not going to play today. The 4C still activates the flashing aux, but holding the button ramps the light up.

I’m wondering if I may have a faulty one, and to be honest I want something that operates reliably, especially the lockout on these little pocket rockets.

South Saxon

jon_slider
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RichH wrote:
lockout now doesn’t work. And I haven’t even pressed the button since it was working last night, it’s just decided it’s not going to play today. The 4C still activates the flashing aux, but holding the button ramps the light up.

I’m wondering if I may have a faulty one, and to be honest I want something that operates reliably, especially the lockout on these little pocket rockets.

your light is not behaving normally..

I would get a refund, and after that decide if you want to buy another one.. (note Im not saying to ask for a replacement.. just ask for a refund, its a simpler conversation, with quicker results).

manithree
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I gotta say, this is a great little light.

I’d been avoiding the tail e-switches until the kinks got ironed out. But I’m a sucker for a new emitter, and this is my first CSP, I love aux leds, and I’ve never had a high CRI cool tint pocket rocket. So, for $20, I couldn’t resist checking off all those boxes.

Now, if I can just get into the habit of looking at the right Andúril cheat sheet (the printed one from wurkkos is way too small for my quinquagenarian eyes), it’s going to take some self control to keep from ordering several more.

RichH
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jon_slider wrote:
RichH wrote:
lockout now doesn’t work. And I haven’t even pressed the button since it was working last night, it’s just decided it’s not going to play today. The 4C still activates the flashing aux, but holding the button ramps the light up.

I’m wondering if I may have a faulty one, and to be honest I want something that operates reliably, especially the lockout on these little pocket rockets.

your light is not behaving normally..

I would get a refund, and after that decide if you want to buy another one.. (note Im not saying to ask for a replacement.. just ask for a refund, its a simpler conversation, with quicker results).

I think I’ll have to Jon, I can’t have a pocket EDC that so can’t lock out without the danger of initiating a factory reset due to the loosened head.

I’ve got the black and orange that you gave me a heads up on arriving pretty soon, so I’ll hang onto the silver and compare the two.

As you say, refund is the way to go. Batch 3 of silver are due soon, maybe I’ll grab one of them.

Also, thanks to Correlux for taking the time to post a similar experience, I’d decided it was probably human error, but I think there’s a genuine problem with the firmware interfacing with the light. Really wish they’d used Anduril 1 for this, I’ve got pretty familiar with that now as it’s being used on Sofirn’s, Fireflies etc.

South Saxon

SammysHP
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Btw, can we please start to call it the “Latticepower CSP2323” or similar? There are CSP LEDs of other manufacturers with different properties.

jon_slider
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SammysHP wrote:
Btw, can we please start to call it the “Latticepower CSP2323” or similar? There are CSP LEDs of other manufacturers with different properties.
Good idea. The Nichia E21a is also CSP2323
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Samsung has some as well. It’s just a package format and the Latticepower misses a proper product name.

manithree
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I actually thought it was the Samsung, since the Wurkkos page just says CSP, and I had seen the Samsung CSPs mentioned elsewhere. TIL.

Attaboid
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Received my TS10 red, red aux 4000k yesterday. Was baffled at first with constant blinking, still ramping…
Somehow did a factory reset successfully. Aux on LOW!. Figured i have to lockout to put aux on high. OK.

Ordered another. The last one in black with orange aux 4000k.

jon_slider
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Attaboid wrote:
Figured i have to lockout to put aux on high. OK.
not really.. it is your choice,

but Aux on High will kill your battery in a few days

more info in the manual
https://ivanthinking.net/thoughts/anduril2-manual/#aux-leds—button-leds

Attaboid
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I like AUX. so gonna use ‘em. I can always recharge a battery.

mattlward
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Got my second TS10 today, red with red aux in 4000k. Really nice tint, but I am really shocked as I can’t decide if I like the CW better or not. The 5800k is just amazing, but the 4000k is also amazing… glad I got both. Did flash fixed firmware on it, almost before I installed a cell to test it. The 4000k will be really nice for nightstand use as the 5800k was just a little harsh.

EDC rotation:
KR4, SST-20 FA3 4000k (favorite!)
FW3A, Nichia 4000k sw40 r9080 (second favorite)
FW1A, LH351D 3500k (third favorite)
FW1A, XP-L Hi 3A
FW3A, LH351D 3500k
FW3A, SST20 FD2 4000k
FW3A, Cree XP-L Hi 5A3
Emisar D4V2, SST20 4000k
Emisar D4V2, brass E21A 3500k (night light of choice)

gchart
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BTW, I made a fresh compile today. You can find the hex file here. Highlights of the changes:

  • Uses Dynamic PWM for smoother bottom of the ramp (thanks SammysHP!)
  • Lower lows in Advanced UI
  • Slightly reduced ceiling for Simple UI
  • No blink at the top of the ramp
  • That should need it, maybe some other minor tweaks though

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