【Brass on Sale】Wurkkos TS10 "slender waist" 14500 triple LEDs Light with Anduril 2.0

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thefreeman
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Difficult to know, but recent cells are usually INR/NMC or NCA. ICR is old stuff.

jon_slider
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thefreeman wrote:
Difficult to know, but recent cells are usually INR/NMC or NCA. ICR is old stuff.
thanks for your guess

I ask because of the tendency to overdischarge when using High Bright Aux/button.

Although I have reflashed to add LVP… not everyone has

Im under the impression that recharging an unprotected IMR/INR that dropped below 2.4v is less risky than recharging an overdischarged unprotected ICR

Attaboid
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Got my 2nd TS10 today. Black, orange aux 4000k.

Not buggy like my first red, red aux 4000k.

Booted in Anduril 2. Not Blinky like the first batch (the red one).

Like it a lot. I can live with the first batch software problems.

Attaboid
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The first batch of TS10 I have is really wonky. Works fine,settles down. and then an hour later it doesn’t respond correctly to clicks.

Very weird.

My second TS10 is working fine.

Wurkkos Terry
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SammysHP wrote:

They simply don’t know how Anduril works. In the ceiling config 1 click means level 150, 2 means 149, 11 means 140 and so on. There is no range check and when you set ceiling below floor, strange things will happen. It’s not a bug (although a range check on the user input might be a good idea, although it will increase the code size significantly).

Sorry my man.
Maybe I have some mistakes in wording.
I will ask Wurkkos tester to show me the complete test process.
Then I will repeat once in this post.
Wurkkos Terry
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varbos wrote:

I think they misunderstand how to set the ceiling. He thinks you have to click 150 times to set a ceiling of 150. And when he does this there is “chaos”

@Wurkkos, please note that the ceiling becomes [151 – n] where n is the number of clicks.
1 click sets ceiling to level 150 (151-1 = 150)
21 clicks sets ceiling to level 130 (151-21 = 130)
55 clicks sets ceiling to level 96 (151-55 = 96)

Some of the Anduril diagrams which are circulating do not explain this clearly enough.

If you make 150 clicks you are telling it to set ceiling to level 1. I never tried this but I guess it could cause strange behaviour.


At that time, the feedback I received was indeed 150C to release the ceiling limit of 130/150.
(PS: I doubt they have set both the ceiling and floor to 150C.)
Let me ask our tester for the complete answer now.
MoreHiCRILumens
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varbos wrote:
Quote:
“We make turbo mode from 150/150 ceiling change to perhaps 130/150. It is running perfect. But when we performed the ‘Set Ceiling Level’ step and manually click 150 times, the lumens of the penultimate level will be chaos (as you saw in this video). Also the temperature limit of the flashlight will also be affected. We can obviously feel the body has become hotter than before.”

I think they misunderstand how to set the ceiling. He thinks you have to click 150 times to set a ceiling of 150. And when he does this there is “chaos”

@Wurkkos, please note that the ceiling becomes [151 – n] where n is the number of clicks.
1 click sets ceiling to level 150 (151-1 = 150)
21 clicks sets ceiling to level 130 (151-21 = 130)
55 clicks sets ceiling to level 96 (151-55 = 96)

Some of the Anduril diagrams which are circulating do not explain this clearly enough.

If you make 150 clicks you are telling it to set ceiling to level 1. I never tried this but I guess it could cause strange behaviour.

This explains why I didn’t seem to get my TS10 to work how I wanted.
Sure I like that I can set everything manually, but sometimes the grind is real. I wonder did I got temperatures right or is my room temp +60 and stepdown at 20? Facepalm

joechina
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SammysHP wrote:
SammysHP wrote:
I’ve played a bit with dynamic PWM and got a really low low with usable lower steps. I’ve limited the PWM top to 2048 as higher values didn’t make much difference, but reduced the frequency unnecessarily. I had some trouble with visible steps from dynamic underclocking. Also it seems like the 7135 drops out of regulation at low levels because the pulse got too short. Will check next days with my oscilloscope and share the config file afterwards.

Well, just what I had expected. Sad

I used this ramp:
level_calc.py 7.01 2 150 7135 1 0.5 130 FET 1 10 1200 —pwm dyn:64:2048:255

First, the lowest level can be really low. I mean, ZebraLight low. Problem: It’s all in the undefined behavior region of the 7135 because the pulse length is just too short.

Here is an example ramping through levels 1 to ~45:

Level 2 is darker than level 1 because the frequency is doubled (dynamic underclocking, quarter speed below 2). There is another jump from level 4 to 5, again dynamic underclocking (half speed below 5). Then it starts increasing, but in an undefined ramp shape. At level 45 the 7135 starts turning fully on (maybe a bit earlier because my light sensor is too slow).

What’s next? I might try to start at level 16 where the slope changes. That might be the point where the error of my light sensor is most influencing. Or it’s just the non-linearity of the 7135. From there I might add one or two “special” levels with ultra low moonlight and from level three upwards it will be lot brighter, but more reliable. Not sure what to do with dynamic underclocking…

Anyone with an idea how this could be set up in a nice way? ToyKeeper, gchart, thefreeman?

What do you use as a light sensor?

Wurkkos
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Brass prototype update

varbos
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Wurkkos Terry wrote:

At that time, the feedback I received was indeed 150C to release the ceiling limit of 130/150.
(PS: I doubt they have set both the ceiling and floor to 150C.)
Let me ask our tester for the complete answer now.

Please see this diagram. It fixes some errors in previous diagram

https://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1840094#comment-1840094

WL27
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Wow Brass Version looks Amazing !

Wurkkos Terry
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varbos wrote:
Wurkkos Terry wrote:

At that time, the feedback I received was indeed 150C to release the ceiling limit of 130/150.
(PS: I doubt they have set both the ceiling and floor to 150C.)
Let me ask our tester for the complete answer now.

Please see this diagram. It fixes some errors in previous diagram

https://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1840094#comment-1840094


Thank you so much my man.
It’s great helpful for one Anduril newbie Thumbs Up
Champfc3000
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Is there going to be a copper ts10?

SammysHP
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joechina wrote:
What do you use as a light sensor?

Just a small solar cell with variable resistor for impedance/load adjustments. Works good enough for PWM measurements, but the response is a little slow for very fast pulses and it’s not linear, so non-PWM measurements are more like guessing.
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Wurkkos wrote:
Brass prototype update

Wow, this looks amazing! Do you already know a release date?
G0OSE
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Wurkkos wrote:
Brass prototype update

Do you have any idea of pricing for the brass copper ones that are to come – ballpark?
Deluminator
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Wurkkos wrote:
Brass prototype update

I’ll buy the brass TS10 in the pictures?

Copper one as well.

Looking for Acebeam M10? PM ME

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Does anyone know if the TS10 driver and MCPCB fit in the FWAA?
Asking for a friend Blushing

thefreeman
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Not the driver, it’s quite different.

Firelight2
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TS10’s star is wider and flatter than the FWAA’s star.

The extra thickness of the FWAA’s star isn’t a problem. Just cut some copper sheet roughly into the shape of the star and put it underneath. Apply thermal grease between the layers.

The problem is the width. It should be possible to get a TS10 star to fit in an FWAA, but you’ll need to do one of the following:

  • Grind down the edges of the star – this is relatively easy to do, but doing so will grind off the aux leds so you won’t have aux; or
  • Ream the inside of the head to fit a wider star – this is not easy to do. Expect to spend a lot of time with a dremel or reamer and hope you don’t take too much off.

TMaxxJJ
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The brass is looking very lovely!

Are you guys going to release a proper deep carry clip for this at all? Please say yes!

kokosnh
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Wurkkos wrote:
Brass prototype update


Is the button from the same material? 

I hope you will do a red copper version too (red copper = copper, just a language thing to be sure)   
jon_slider
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Westie wrote:
Asking for a friend Blushing
LOL
.
gman9
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will any future versions of the ts10 have firmware with no “bugs”
i do not want to have to flash the firmware myself. it seems too complicated for me Sad
AUX LVP change will be added to future models? thx for your time and effort.

fogofwar
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jon_slider wrote:
Westie wrote:
Asking for a friend Blushing
LOL .

Lol does the light actually work? I like the FW button more.

Wurkkos Terry
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@SammysHP
I have talked to our testers.
The sequence of their test earlier——①10H run into Advanced UI→②7H run into current ramp mode→③nothing to do after single flash→④150C after double flash→⑤nothing to do after triple flash→⑥output chaos lumens and ATR

It is confirmed that we have used the wrong test method.
From the fourth batch of TS10, we will equipped for TS10 the latest Anduril programs provided by Mr.Gchart.
Thank you so much again for all advanced programmer BLFers timely reminder and error correction.
Wurkkos will do more rigorously afterwards in test.

Best regards,
Terry

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Yep, Anduril doesn’t have error checking and this is a case where an error can occur. Other settings are usually just one sided.

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fogofwar wrote:
jon_slider wrote:
Westie wrote:
Asking for a friend Blushing
LOL .

Lol does the light actually work? I like the FW button more.

I just tried that with mine.

It does not work. The FWAA is wired so that main power flows in the outer body tube while the inner tube is used for switch connection. The TS10 is wired the other way around. This means the FWAA’s tailcap is wired incorrectly for the TS10’s driver and the light does not function properly.

sesgum
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I got my silver 4000k with ice blue a few days ago and love this little guy!
Everything is great about this light. If it should hold for years, it will be my all time favorite EDC for sure.

Looking forward to buying Ti / Copper / Brass version of it.

Good job and thank you Wurkkors!

Firelight2
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Agreed. I’ve been EDC’ing my silver 4000K for the last week. I love it.

Only thing that needs improvement is the clip. The stock 2-way clip is awkward. The light would be much better if it shipped stock with a deep-carry clip.

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