id30209 wrote:

I just got a word with Clemence (ERKX), showed him the emitter datasheet and he said it could be a straight Nichia E21A swap. Not 100% sure because i don’t have it on hands but soon (hopefully) i’ll report back with some mod update.

Good luck with the mod. I’ve swapped the TX in an i3E. One hit and one miss. Three tiny LEDs at a time will be very difficult I guess.

BlueSwordM wrote:

So, this light uses a buck driver, right?

RavenII wrote:

ROYCE wrote:

Orange with a battery seems to be in stock still. Orange without a battery is out of stock along with both options with ice blue aux. Even if you don’t need the battery, it’s only 2 bucks.

On their site? I see Orange and Ice Blue as being out of stock no matter which options are selected.

It was definitely listed as in stock when I checked yesterday, but no longer. Blue is back though.

Does anyone know if this light requires a flattop/button top cell? Or if either will work just as well?

my understanding is both will work!

sold out?

RavenII wrote:

So my house was robbed last week and they took my KR4…I came on here looking to find a reasonable replacement and sure enough, here it is…but it looks like I missed out on the Orange one. Any ETA on a new batch?

I can solder very well, what size are the aux LEDs?

Sorry to hear that. They apparently knew a quality flashlight when they saw it though.

Do be aware that this is a smaller light than the KR4, running on a 14500 battery instead of an 18650. It should be a great pocket light at a very nice price, but the maximum brightness won’t be as impressive.

I appreciate it…apparently they knew what quality pistols (Dan Wesson), a display case full of ST Dupont lighters, and a whole bunch of other stuff were.

Yeah, I currently carry a Wowtac W1 (Thrunite T1) modded with a LH351D (4?K…I think). It’s nice, but wouldn’t mind something with anduril. The KR4 was only 2k/lm I believe. I ended up ordering the Red aux one so I don’t miss out. I can always change them if needed.

Well I would probably get orange, red or green body color with orange, red or green auxes.

I would prefer cyan and green as body colors.

Olive drab

man! I missed the drop already? I checked on the 6th and it wasn't for sale, and now its sold out of every color.. disappointing.. 

 Next batch - red anodization and orange auxiliaries please. or any ano color with orange auxiliaries.

i have put orange aux in a red ff e07 it was the best looking combo i have seen.

Wurkkos wrote:

Raw aluminum and silver Oxidation, which is better?

raw aluminum, in my opinion. 

I’d really like to see a batch with 3535 footprint LEDs, or maybe just suitable 3535 mcpcbs available for modding.

I like raw aluminum

Raw aluminum. It looks great and will help the auxil colors stand out.

Thanks for asking us!!

Seth

Olive green please.

I think Red and Green Anodising are very nice,

and I like Red, or Orange or Cyan, Aux lights,

—-
imo Raw Aluminium is a Bad idea, here are some reasons. Italic portions are quotes from googling:

1. Anodised has 17X better heat emission:
The unfinished surface of aluminum can be measured at an emissivity of approximately 0.05. The emissivity of an anodized aluminum surface can be measured at around 0.85.

2. Raw Aluminium will oxidise, it does not stay shiny, unless it is repolished
Although the relation between Al and neurodegenerative diseases is still controversial, Al is related with many brain diseases including Alzheimer’s disease, Parkinson’s disease, and multiple sclerosis.

3. Aluminium is toxic, I would not want to handle raw aluminium.
Aluminium’s free metal cation, Alaq(3+), is highly biologically reactive and biologically available aluminium is non-essential and essentially toxic.

Honestly, I cannot think of one good reason to choose raw aluminium.

If I want a shiny host material, Im a BIG fan of Titanium.

Wurkkos, you consider to made a version with 3X Nichia E17A 1850k ?
AA/14500 compatible

2700k LEDs please

I’ve got a black with blue aux on the way. I’d buy another with different color aux, and a different body color.

Pink.

Raw aluminum would be perfect, warmer emitter please..

Wurkkos wrote:

Raw aluminum and silver Oxidation, which is better?

If this light has an internal signal tube, I think silver anodizing would be better. If both the signal tube and the body are anodized, there is protection against shorting the signal tube to the body on both sides. If the body is raw aluminum, a scratch in the signal tube could hypothetically cause unintended behavior.

I’ll defer to experience others may have whether this should be a deciding factor, but I think it should be considered for a light of this type.

Sari33 wrote:

Wurkkos, you consider to made a version with 3X Nichia E17A 1850k ? AA/14500 compatible

Keep in mind, the E17A is rated by Nichia for only 700mA. I think Clemence said it could be pushed to 1.75A on a really good MCPCB, but it doesn’t seem like most manufacturers have familiarity with such MCPCB’s. It also has a low forward voltage that could increase the risk of overdriving on a FET-powered light.

The LatticePower CSP2323 that Wurkkos said is being used in this light is rated for 1.4A.

It would be a really nice option if the E17A can safely run in this light, but it seems marginal to me.

If E17A isn’t right, l would like to have ICSP2323 at 1800k high Cri
For me 2700k Leds are common and too cold for late night use

jon_slider wrote:

—-
imo Raw Aluminium is a Bad idea, here are some reasons. Italic portions are quotes from googling:

1. Anodised has 17X better heat emission:
The unfinished surface of aluminum can be measured at an emissivity of approximately 0.05. The emissivity of an anodized aluminum surface can be measured at around 0.85.

2. Raw Aluminium will oxidise, it does not stay shiny, unless it is repolished
Although the relation between Al and neurodegenerative diseases is still controversial, Al is related with many brain diseases including Alzheimer’s disease, Parkinson’s disease, and multiple sclerosis.

3. Aluminium is toxic, I would not want to handle raw aluminium.
Aluminium’s free metal cation, Alaq(3+), is highly biologically reactive and biologically available aluminium is non-essential and essentially toxic.

Honestly, I cannot think of one good reason to choose raw aluminium.

If I want a shiny host material, Im a BIG fan of Titanium.

You did not mention raw AL is soft and subject to dings and scratches… you did say, and my big problem with it is that it corrodes easily (making it look like crap).
I fully agree with the rest of your post. I am curious why people like raw aluminum… unless they just love to spend time polishing…???
The process was developed and aluminum is almost always anodized for very good reasons.

Anyway, if it is bright metal, mine would have to be silver anodized.

Micro arc oxidation in white or light gray for body it would be great.

Cyan, purple or blue for aux leds.