The Sofirn SC21 Pro is the upgraded version of the SC21 which now uses the Anduril 1 UI. The Pro model features the same high CRI Samsung LH315D emitter in 5000k, which is rated for 1100 lumens on turbo. The only color temperature option is 5000k however there are multiple body colors to choose from. The beam profile is perfect for an EDC. Thanks to the orange peel reflector floody emitter, it produces a wide hotspot with very usable spill. Included in the package is a 800 mah button top 16340 non-proprietary battery, usb c cable, spare o-rings, and the two way pocket clip.
The SC21 Pro features onboarding charging via usb c, which is very convenient and easy. Since it has onboard charging, this light is a great gift idea to non-flashaholics. The rubber flap is secure and stays in place nicely. The side switch is made of hard plastic which requires a firm push to activate. The switch also includes a small green indicator which can be adjusted to high, low, blinking, or off. The switch on the SC21 Pro is definitely an upgrade to the mushy switch found on the SP35. The body of the Pro is identical to that of the original SC21. The light design is simple with shallow diamond knurling and small cooling fins on the head. It really looks like a shrunken down SP35 which is awesome. The dual direction clip carries well in the pocket and the magnetic tailcap is convenient. The pocket clip is a little small which is sometimes challenged to get over the lip of a pocket.
The UI is upgraded from Sofirn’s usual UI to Anduril 1. I wish Sofirn upgraded to Anduril 2 but the UI works great. The basic UI of Anduril is a single click for on and single click for off. Once on, hold the switch to ramp up, release and hold the switch to ramp down. The UI is very configurable if you want and includes modes such as battery check, temp check, strobe, etc.
The Olight S1R Baton 2 is close competition to this light as it is also rated at 1000 lumens from a 16340 battery. The Olight is a little smaller because it utilizes a TIR reflector while the Sofirn uses a traditional reflector. I much prefer the spill of the reflector from the Sofirn with its smoother beam and cheaper price. The Sofirn SC21 Pro is a great budget option for those who are interested in a compact and bright flashlight with Anduril.
Things I like:
1100 lumens on turbo from 16340 battery
High CRI LH315D emitter
Onboard USB-C charging
Anduril UI
Room For Improvement:
Upgrade battery to 18350 for more power and longer runtime
that is the name of the LED used in the SC21 Pro
the Tint dot is above the curved black line, that is considered the green side of the line: (but there can be green and greener, the duv number quantifies the position of the dot) .
here it is after changing to a 519a LED
the Tint dot is below the curved black line, and also a slightly warmer color temperature .
The SC21 Pro is a great little light, and can be improved by changing the LED, but many people are not as obsessed with these details as I am… LOL
I’ve been using my SC 21 for a few weeks now and really like it. I’m not yet quite used to the switch but overall I am glad it’s in my pocket as my EDC. Have thought about changing to anduril 2 but it does what I need and then some.
SC21 Pro is the light I gift to muggles, because of the built in charging.
However, I do not love sideswitches, even though the one on the SC21 Pro is better than most, as it easier to find, both by feel, or by sight, than unlit and smooth side switches. (really dislike the SP10 Pro switch)
My personal preference is for the TS10. I prefer tailswitches, do not need magnet. The TS10 is the same length but more slender than SC21, and the TS10 weighs 10 grams less correction, 8 grams less, which to me, matters.
here are some photos of the TS10 LEDs… imo they are quite nice:
I presently EDC a White MAO TS10 w the 5800K LEDs. If you decide to buy, avoid the black ones on Amazon, buy from Wurkkos.com because the latter have been updated to the latest firmware, that adds LVP to Aux…
I love it. At first it had a slightly chalky feel, but it is now smooth. It does show dirt (I consider it patina), but it also comes perfectly clean again, by wiping with alcohol. Zero problems with the finish wearing off. I have been using it clipped to a pocket (with nothing else to touch it). I have not dropped it, nor scratched it.
Here it is after an alcohol cleaning: .
whats not to love?
I honestly do not understand why the MAO has a reputation for not being durable. My research indicates it is actually superior to Hard Anodising. MAO is twice as resistant to abrasion. Maybe Im mistaken and in a little while the MAO will wear off… but so far, Im really enjoying it.
Hmm, I didn’t realize the TS10 was lighter and smaller, I do like that. While I do like the magnet and side switches in general, I may have to give this a try. And thanks for the tip on the Wurkkos store, less expensive than the jungle and the latest FW. I’ll likely give the TS10 a try!
I do not think it is as thick or durable as anodising. I did a test with a piece of soft deerskin leather. I rubbed the whole MAO light, briskly, and intentionally rubbed the corners of the bezel on the leather, firmly. I can now see shiny aluminium just along the very corner edge of the bezel… The MAO wore off…
so yes, Wurkkos is right to say that the MAO coating is not durable. .
here is an enlargement from that pic:
You can see the machine lines on the MAO, whereas the anodising is thicker, and hides those lines. .
I do think the reason the light with MAO no longer feels chalky, and feels smooth instead, is because the coating is wearing off. I recommend buying one of the anodised colors, if durability is high priority.
It was just a few months ago that I first heard of MAO/etc and did some research, then was able to see in hand a few different products that had that finishing process. It is remarkably more durable and “better” in many ways than either type II or type III anodizing.
IF……big IF
…it is done correctly. I don’t know about Simon’s or Hank’s finishes but clearly the MAO application in Wurkkos’ lights is just not being done right. Could be the factory they are using (don’t think they are doing it themselves in house), possible that it’s just not an experienced factory or there are cost saving choices that didn’t pan out. But it’s probably important that we collectively do not judge the technology itself by this failed example of poor process/application.
I think it’d be great to have this on lights and the items I had in hand were impressive in that regard. It’d be nice to have the darker colors as well, instead of the cream/white. I passed on buying the Wurkkos and will pass on buying the Convoy models until people report that it’s a good finish (the data Simon shared when asked sounded erroneous…could very well be the same factory or process that Wurkkos used). I’m willing to pay a premium for a better more durable finish, but only if it’s actually more durable. Right now we’re seeing a premium added for a finish that not only isn’t more durable but seems to be far less durable than standard type II anodizing. It can be done right, and when it is, it’ll be great to have.
I should note that my samples of this were from US processors…probably doesn’t make any difference there other than the fact that they did it correctly. The technology is good.
Well, the return period is nearing its end and my relationship with the switch hasn’t improved. Seems like I get lots of missed clicks or unintentional double clicks. I’m returning to try another SC21 to see if its any better. The replacement SC21, and a Wurkkos TS10, are both expected in a few days . . .
Hope my perception of the SC21 improves, else I’ll have the TS10 to fall back on.
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