I did what I thought was a good amount of research before purchasing my first premium light (D4K w/ 519a and boost driver). It was my first Hank light. Unfortunately, the configuration I picked with the boost driver also exhibits a super annoying “pre-flash” when activating moonlight mode. Going from off to moonlight, there’s a split second bright flash of the main emitter before it goes to moonlight.
Now that I know what to issue to search for, I do see other people on forums mention this. It’s super disappointing because moonlight is most of my usage for a light like this.
I’m not sure what to do now. It doesn’t seem to be fixable via software. I contacted Hank via email and he just said yup, they’re like that…which seems a bit of a slap. And with these things it’s not like I can return it right? Trying to be conscientious about spending money on a hobby that also has some utility. And not be a jerk focused on little things.
What have you guys done in the past with sellers that are across the world? What’s reasonable?
Huh, a small flash is to be expected, but nothing that shouldn’t be super bright.
I’d check if firmware could be/has been fixed by someone else, and if it was, maybe ask nicely for a flashing kit from intl outdoor.
usually all Hank lights can be flashed with different kinds of firmware/UI’s he even sells flashing kits, so this one cannot be updated?
Before people were used flashing new firmwares etc, all this stuff just was not applicable and we had to read reviews and a lot of threads on CPF/BLF to orientate and anticipate on buying a new suitable flashlight.
I assume you’re from the US? Returning something because one didn’t like it isn’t a common practice in China and most non English speaking countries.
This instance is rather tricky because it’s not necessarily a defect but matter of design. It is know to perform that way and sold as is. Overseas manufacturer dealing directly with the final customer means it’s not ideal when it comes to CS and after sale support. This is why there are extensive discussions on here and other platforms, but at the same time it’s the reason why Hank’s lights have incredibly high performance to value ratio.
I’m a turbo mode guy, but I understand it would be extremely annoying if there was a moonlight flash before every turbo activation.
When I buy flashlights that are shipped from overseas I go into with the mindset that it’s really an as-is transaction. If there’s an issue with it then I’ll try to fix it and if I can’t then I basically just shrug it off. These days I try not to get stressed out over money matters and/or get upset over things I can’t control.
That’s not to say that I won’t try to get things resolved with the seller, but at some point it’s going to be clear that things won’t end the way I want it to.
Soft is not integrated into hardware properly. Pure manufacturers fault. Ask for compensation if not ,open dispute on Paypal. BTW looks like Hank getting too lazy to write up all specs. of product.
If you have any form of consumer protection or if you paid by PayPal, then yes. You might want to see about returning for a refund replacement if the item is not as described or defective. In the UK this would certainly be the case legally.
If you want to keep the light, have you tried altering the lower floor level to something a bit higher? This might get around the issue you are having.
Please be aware that any form of complaining, trying to get a refund, or returning any item, will kill the whole “budget” thing in the flashlight scene.
Hardware, the inverting input of the Op-Amp needs to be pulled down during start-up (or the output pulled up), Mike C tested connecting directly IN- to a pin of the MCU, but apparently when floating the pin it’s unstable so using a small NFET to pull down IN- is needed.
The change should be very simple, the drivers have spare area and they have 4 layers so the routing is easy, the annoying part of course is producing a new revision.
In term of software the pin controlling the NFET needs to be pulled up for a moment when enabling the Op-Amp/boost IC, how long depends on the value of the Op-Amp compensation capacitor, the larger it is the longer the flash is.
All my MP3431 based drivers have this small NFET, but not the code needed because I don’t know how to do it.
Here’ a simulated example (at 1A because it shows better than at a moonlight level):
Green is current and it surges to more than 7A
Red is the output of the Op-Amp which takes some time to rise. Output low = high current, output high = low current.
Purple is the Inverting input of the Op-Amp.
By pulling down IN- (for 2 ms here) the output starts high, thus the current starts low and doesn’t surge.
That doesn’t sound all that easy tbh. I certainly am unsure how I’d follow this. Although doing this on a new light, one that isn’t exactly cheap won’t be to everyones tastes.
What I mention here isn’t a user fix, it’s a manufacturer fix, hence why I mentionned it first on Hank’s thread (a couple of time actually IIRC), I don’t know how many users are bothered with this, since I don’t see complaints that often the majority apparently don’t care much about it.
