Saw it bad already, giorgoskok. My suggestion was aimed to see if butanone would competently eat those dome goo leftovers.
Cheers ^:)
It’s normal to leave it in there for 24 hours.
Or heat it up and it will go much faster.
That’s why i now use a small sealable container, i put it over a tealight.
Maybe you can still make a big blue LED of it.
Gas + heating up sounds like a bad combo to me…
xD
Wow… gotta give credit to some of you your skills are really impressive!!
Hmmm… Yes, but i use a sealed container (60 cm³ or something), only about 10% filled with fuel.
Heating it speeds things up considerably.
For the few dedomes that I have done (all of them successful; XP-G2, XP-L, XM-L2), I’ve used heated gas and it has done the trick in about 15 minutes.
I don’t mix gas and flame though… sounds too risky. Rather, I fill an old 2 cup measuring container half full of boiling water. I then float a small jelly jar (containing a small bit of gasoline and the LED) in the boiling water. Usually the gas itself will begin to boil. I suspend the LED upside-down and wait for the dome to come loose. Quick, easy, and no risk of going BOOM. :+1:
I saw you post about the mineral spirits and XM-L2s…XM-L2s can be easily dedomed by heat. Just connect a battery directly to the mcpcb (as long as the mcpcb is dtp) to light up the led in 20 second steps. After you light it up twice for 20 seconds each time…trim the corners…light it up another time or two…then use a knife or razor blade and lift from the opposite side of the bond wires, using steady pressure. If it doesn’t want to come off, don’t force it…heat it again and then it should come on off.
At the time I tried everything but ended up using and staying with Dupont Imron and Corlar paint thinner Y32035 is the number, extremely clean, but it is a slow process, which I don’t mind. But during the process, as when the silicone started to crumble apart, I started to heatsink the LED and hook up a driver and power source. Cycling the LED and then brushing lightly with a cotton swab soaked in the thinner or racing fuel, I started to notice that the phosphor was getting harder, firming up, from what was kind of mushy surface before heat cycling the LED, really noticed the difference on the XHP35’s to the point that the surface could even with stand a light scrapping with the back edge of a razor blade. It just takes a little patience. I went thru quite a few till I got the process that works for me down! :person_facepalming:
Always kept it wet by dunking it or soaking and hitting it with a blast of compressed air it helps a bunch also! Then go back to heat cycling it soaking ect.ect.
The biggest problem once you get a good one, and your all hooked up and enjoying your success is a piece of crap landing on top of one the dies and burning a freaking hole in it, I mean it even happens to closely shave domes and HI’s too! Then it just has to smoke your beautiful smooth reflector and well you get it! :person_facepalming: Just cycling the living bleep out of it before building your light also, I had a de-domed XHP35 just as pretty as could be and figured I was ready to install, but something in my gut told me to hit it hard and let it get real hot, well a stream of smoke from the LED went up and when I shut it down, there was still a bit of thin silicone that burnt, luckily I just brushed it off with a fuel soaked Q-Tip and it cleaned up perfect, it’s still in the TN42 today! I got lucky, it would have smoked up the reflector, so cycle the hell out of it, make 100% sure it is clean and ready!! :+1:
Cool, first pics I see of a dedomes XHP70
I probably won’t dedome mine, I think having the layer of dome material still on top is a lot safer, dust or even touching the LED doesn’t damage the dies.
It’s also a pretty rare P2 1C so I won’t risk it 
That is a P2-1C it’s in a Jax X6 that my buddy bought, his first XHP70 light he just had to have it, that and along with 9 other of my lights, guess who wants the TN42 with the XHP70 P2-1C in it! :person_facepalming:
If there are any flaws in the container that lead to a crack on heating (and under pressure), that could get interesting very quickly.
Possible to come up with a remote phosphor plan for the damaged xhp 70?
KawiBoy1428, you can try glueing a (reflector hole ∅ max) small neutral lens over the die, maybe with strips of Sekisui #5760 double sided thermal adhesive. That would protect the die from particles while resisting its elevated operating temperatures. 8^)
Cheers ^:)
I’ll take some interesting pictures to show you tomorrow. 
Sooo, it seems the best method is heat + solvent (gas, etc.) but, any more specific details?
Let's say we plan on heating up the stuff over a frying pan, what would be the right way to do it? We'd first pre-heat the stuff at up to what temperature? 130-140°? With a hot dome, we then rub it around with a fuel soaked q-tip, removing a dome layer in the process. Then (immediately?) we reheat the emitter, rinse and repeat until all the dome is gone?
I have a few LB guinea pigs :-) and an XM-L lying around, great candidates for technique refinement I believe. 
Cheers ^:)
I just hooked up 2 XML2 U2-1A to thin copper wires
put em into normal gas the one with 10% etanol you get here
then drive em at 200mA each
the dome was off after about 2 hours, let em in there overnight
and most of the surface was without dome remains
cleaned with toothpick and wet qtip
the wet qtip bend the bond wires a bit, while I removed dome remains around the LED surface
but I got all the stuff off the emitter and also cleaned the rest as far as I could not risking to damage the bond wires
the Dedome fail of XHP70 is a ble LED now
I love the colour ble! It is the best colour
Can you post a pic of it running?
compared to my Nitecore P12 with XML2 U3-3D on Nogtigon I estimate at 1100 lumens
oOOoooo pretty
I have absolutely NO idea why……but I giggled for quite a while at this comment!!