Assembled by me. Just let me know which one you lost in your order comments and I'll throw in a replacement. Those things are tiny and tend to get lost when they go flying. There is probably enough parts lying in my carpet and in nooks and crannies to build several complete drivers! 
For any Aussies here undecided on taking the plunge from purchasing from RMM heres a quick review.
I've just done a crash course dummy test on the RMM website. Making an account was no stress. One very minor glitch has been sorted out. Making the order was no hassle and the postage costs come up before you pay for anything so you can chop and change your shopping cart around to your hearts content before paying. Shipping costs seemed to be cheap enough for me, cheaper than I can ship things overseas anyway, and all questions were responded to quickly. As a bonus I have had no extra surprise emails which is an added bonus. Also as a test I've added a couple of batteries so we will see if we have any issues with them.
In all I have added myself to the list of satisfied customers. Shipping should be a hundred times quicker than coming from China.
Thanks Richard and better half. 
MRsDNF, did you happen to notice that you can put in an alternate address and drop ship batteries to me here in Texas? I think you should try it out, make sure the site is working properly. Those new Efest 26650’s need to be thoroughly tested…
I'm after 32650s. Mine seem to be stuck at some port in Asia. Maybe you can try and get them shipped to me. My latest little project needs five. Protected of course. Maybe I should of just ordered 26650s from RMM and made up adapters.
l've done your order Dale. Let me know when you get them. 
I ordered ten to test out the posties bag carrying capacity.
The best 32650’s I’ve found are puny by comparison to the smaller cells. And the protection circuit trips too easily, making them essentially useless. These are NOVAE cells.
I concur with what MRsDNF said, the slight glitch that existed is now fixed and the site works well. Have a play around. Spread the postage costs and it doesnt seem bad at all IMO.
Thanks Richard, cant wait for my various Efests, even if just because they are purple.
Ill let you know how well they work. I doubt thorough is the term Id use for my testing purposes. Use is more appropriate.
An unusual request I guess, but is there any possibility of stocking bare BLF10DD and 12DD PCB’s?
That’d be awesome 
I actual have some, but haven't listed them because I haven't got around to building one yet to test it out!
I just can't find a use of those 10 mm's because they require a separate battery contact board - I got several lights with 10 mm drivers I'd love to replace, but they all need to have the battery contact - no room to stack drivers.
DBCstm actually used the blf10dd without a separate contact board in his texas poker at one point.
I can’t find the exact post or photo right now but I’m sure Dale could chime in on that.
I’m intending to use a blf10dd and an XP-L in a tank007 E09 (I know, they’re bloody hard to get open) and as far as I know there is room for two seperate PCB’s inside the head so that may make it slightly easier. Either way this plan may fail miserably but I’d like to give it a go and the end result would be very nice.
I do have the BLFTiny10 working in my Texas Poker, making 3.3A and 921 lumens from a de-domed XP-L.
I put a thin layer of Arctic Alumina adhesive between the components and a copper contact plate (thin circle of copper cut from sheet) soldered to the positive lead coming completely through the board. Works fine.
Over the past few months I have bought several different 12x XM-L shower head lights to modify, since they are a lot of lumens for the money. These have ranged from the behemoth TR-J20 down to some small lights. On all of the lights except the J20, I have purposefully limited the emitter current by leaving smaller wires and other higher resistance points in place. Last night I finished one that I've had apart for a while, but this time I used heavy springs and a bit heavier wire. It pulls over 15A from 3S King Kongs (the J20 was about 12.5A and was fine, the smaller ones were around 9A and were fine)...and the output drops like an absolute rock. It is a drop from 10000 to 4500 lumens in a matter of 5-10 seconds, and it isn't from voltage sag. In about 3-5 seconds on high you can see the tint visibly shift as the emitters heat up. This one is going to have to be turned back down to around 9A if it hopes to survive.
I guess there is such a thing as too much power! 
Too much power or totally inadequate heat sinking and cooling. A output drop that fast and massive indicates to me that there is something inadequate in the cooling for the LEDs. They are overheating almost instantly it seems.
Yep, small head size and aluminum MCPCBs. At 15A+ each emitter is seeing about 4A, which is too much on aluminum especially when the entire head below them is scorching hot. I think I'm going to try and stick a stack of 7135s in this one and see how they do.
I’m hoping some of these monsters make it to your sales. (Say a 10 amp J20, or a new driver for it)
As always, if you have a request for a custom light you can PM me. I may not always be able to to do it, but I'll usually entertain ideas.
Got the L5 today - a beaut. I Posted a quick review up on Mtn. Makes me regret buying 3 of those $10 F13 clones - would have rather bought 1-2 of these... dims pretty much match up to the F13's accept the L5 is shorter. Should post a "quick impression" thread on it... That matte finish is just plain awesome. No idea how it will hold up but mine came in perfect. Suspect not as good as the Eagle Eye X6, but really dunno... Really needs my e-switch driver for modes - dunno when I'll get to it. I do have 22 mm BLFDD's though - think they will fit - will be doing a tear down.
18 kcd at 2.2A for a stock light this size is decent. My EE X6 did 14.8 kcd stock at 2.26A, but with the "supposed" XM-L2 U2 3C LED, while the L5 is supposed XM-L2 T6 CW (thinking 1A).
Thanks for sharing Tom! I already enjoy reading your reviews, as you generally have experience with different lights than I do so I get to hear about new and exciting lights.
Dunno, always liked the Paisen and F13 lights - design, shape, size, etc., but specially because of the 26650 cell capability. Running 26700's is a super +. But this L5 style - wow, I understand you excitement on your L5's product page. Dunno if my pics could do it justice - needs a real photographer like JM or Dale, etc...
I'm a bad judge of times, but seems now maybe it's 1.5 - 2 secs hold to turn off. This thing is scream'n for a Werner style UI... Would be worth every penny to make this light fully modded out. I had Chris at FFL make 37.0 UCLp lens, and got them in -- this should be the first light I'll try them out in. Hoping it can handle the UCLp thickness...
FWIW, I have a derivative of STAR-Werner which adds a battery connection flash, a battery check mode, and improved UI (hold to cycle through modes one way, click to cycle the other way). I reversed the default direction though, since I’m used to press-and-hold being low-to-high order like on Zebralights.
http://bazaar.launchpad.net/~toykeeper/flashlight-firmware/trunk/files/head:/ToyKeeper/STAR_SRK/
Oh, and it includes JonnyC’s new dual-speed PWM bits, so the lowest modes can use phase-correct while the upper modes use fast PWM. Much better control over the low end that way. My SRK gets 1 lumen at a PWM level of 1.