I love it:
TK61MTN Vinh got nuttin’ on you!
I don't know if I'd say that. Vinh's got a great reputation, and a lot more experience than I do.
Hey guys, hoping to release a few videos of the lights I make this summer, along with some quick "how to" videos. I hope to not be too duplicative of OldLumens' great stuff, but I may show a few different techniques on stacking 7135 chips, etc.
Here's a quick one showing a custom 6A P60 drop-in:
Also, just added the OSH 16mm 12x7135 slave board. Check it out here!
1. $50 + shipping, ALL SOLD! Black "Skyray King" branded 6xXM-L2 SRK clone. Nice fit and finish. I bought a few of these as samples, then had some issues ordering more. I pulled all of the components off of the stock driver and reflowed a 70N02 onto the stock driver board and piggybacked it with a STAR powered 7-mode level attiny13a driver board.
It has the stock XM-L2s on the stock single-piece aluminum MCPCB which are a cool white, I'd say a bit cooler than 1A. I replaced the stock thin wires with 18 AWG silicone and put Arctic Silver 5 mixed with a bit of Arctic Alumina (compound, not adhesive) under the MCPCB. The tailcap springs are also copper braided.
It does around 5500 lumens on startup with VTC4s but it drops like a rock down to around 4200 lumens in around 30 seconds, then stays right around 4000 lumens for a long time; the stock MCPCB can't handle the heat as well as the copper setups do. That said, it is still a VERY bright light with a great UI. A lot of lumens for the money! I think that PFs or Panasonic 3400 Bs would be a better match for this light than the even lower resistance cells since you will get the benefit of longer runtime and the additional heat generated doesn't provide a lot of extra lumens in this light, at least not for long.
PM me if interested.
Both the TK61mtn and modded 6-emitter SRKs sound pretty nice for whoever gets them.
I’m trying to stick only to self-modded items for now though… and I’m pretty excited about the SRK mod parts I have on order. I built myself a light box today so I’ll be able to measure the results of my changes. I may have to take the next step and build an integrating sphere too though, since I think my light box maxes out at around 3000 lumens and I might end up with something brighter than that. An integrating sphere would also provide more accurate results than the milk carton model I made today.
Recieved the M-6 and DQG Triple from Richard yesterday and I am impressed. DQG is what I've been looking for. Really like the size. Very usable in NW as a "regular flashlight" as my family would say but still has a very bright mode. My King Kongs like it too. No rattle at all. Have not tried the 18650 sleeve that came with it and probably won't. I love it just like it is.
The M-6 is a mod 1 and HOLY COW! The only problem with it is that I don't have an open area big enough to see it's potential. I've got to find an open field to really appreciate the tidal wave of light. I can't imagine the Mod 2 version with some serious melt your hand batteries in it.
Good job and thank you Richard. Shipping was faster than expected. Not unusual from you. I'm still used to slow boat from China shipping.
Edit not tiny but triple (DQG) duh
Advise please.
I’m building a 3 x XML2 light and plan to use an RMM FET driver.
I can’t decide whether to wire it with 3 x 18650 in series and 3 x XML2 in series, or 4 x 18650 in parallel with 3P XML2.
Any thoughts? Advantages? Disadvantages?
If I build it one way, and decide to go another, it will be easy for me to reconfigure.
Ouchy, the driver will be your deciding factor won’t it? From what I’m seeing, these FET drivers are set up as single cell operation. 4.2V max. So that would require you to run your cells in parallel to keep from frying the MCU. Even with the Zener mod, it’s designed to protect the MCU while giving the 6V MT-G2 what it requires. So it might be feasible to run 4 XM-L2 on 4 18650, 2S2P with both cells and emitters. Or 4P each way.
At any rate, the driver design is going to be what you have to work around.
I don’t know. Unless haven’t been understanding, I thought the FET driver with Zener is good for 3S XML emitters with 3S cells. I better get this confirmed before I get busy on my mod.
The TK61 is tempting but I already have a ThruNite TN32. Probably not as long a run time with only three 18650 cells but it is a monster as far as throw for a factory stock light. Hot spot is very similar to my Fenix TK50 in size at a distance but the difference in hot spot intensity is amazing. Before the Thrunite the Fenix was my only example of a throw optimized light.
The six LED SRK is totally tempting at the price.
First off: either configuration will work, with the 3S obviously requiring a zener mod.
Here are a few points of consideration:
1. With 4 18650s and the emitters wired in parallel, you get the extra capacity from the extra 18650 and low voltage protection will also work out of the box. However, you will be drawing a lot of amps (probably around 20 with good cells) so this works best with an e-switch setup, since most switches won't handle 20A for long, and the single spring/copper braid and associated traces would also be trying to carry 20A. You also need more wires to the emitters this way, so if things are tight series might be the way to go.
2. With 3 18650s wired in series and the emitters also wired in series the amp draw is greatly reduced, making this a better choice for tail-clicky operation. You lose low-voltage warning/protection and the capacity from the extra 18650.
What light is this going in? If it's an e-switch I'd go parallel with the cells; if it's a tail clicky I'd likely go series.
It’s a single emitter tail clicky 4P 18650 soupcan that I’m reconfiguring with a deep triple reflector. If I go series, I’ll have one empty battery tube that I can keep snacks in.
Maybe a delicious Twix would fit.
Richard;
I am not too clear on standard terms here. Is 6.5A the draw per LED or for a total of 19.5A for the three or is that the draw per cell from the four 18650 batteries for a 26A total? Sorry for my ignorance but always learning.
It’s difficult to get an accurate measurement of amps on these lights, due to the multiple cell multiple emitter set up. The emitters are “loose” and so it’s not really easy to measure at each emitter. Perhaps if we screwed the emitters down we could get accurate actual emitter lumens.
Total amperage pulled from the cells should be in the 18A range.
Just don’t run the light too long on high or your twix will turn into chocolate sauce! 0:)
Looks like these guys have it pretty well answered: it's about 6.5A per emitter.
Great deals!
I thought @5.8A it should be around 1700lm, hence 70% + output boosted? i could be wrong……
Richard, do you know when the Zener FET driver will be back in stock?
More FET driver questions.
If I’m connecting direct from battery + to LED, do I still need a feed to the FET driver BAT. I know in a Qlite with 7135 chips that they need some input power to run. Is this necessary with a FET driver?
Second question: when I do a Zener mod on a FET diver, I test it with two cells and an MTG. I figure if the MTG lights up its good. Is this accurate, or is it possible to power the MTG with a Zener that has a solder point that isn’t contacting correctly?