DIY + Review of Convoy S3 Host

DIY and Review of Convoy S3 (host)

I recently decided to give a shot at DIY’ing my own flashlight with a host, driver and emitter. After much consultation, I settled on the following list, purchased from Fasttech…


All in all, it cost a total of $24.50 (with the BLF discount code).
It took a few weeks before I had all my parts and thus began my first build!

First off, I added a drop of thermal adhesive to the bottom of the emitter and let it set.

The holes and the emitter cut-outs for the wires weren’t exactly perfect but (as seen later on) that wasn’t much of an issue.

I then got the soldering kit out and soldered the driver wires to the emitter (red to positive, black to negative). I had many issues with this, being my first time working with drivers and emitters and managed to damage the wires and had to resolder new wires onto the driver. After many patient attempts, I somehow managed to fix everything!
The plastic gasket was attached to the bottom of the emitter (which was kind of sticky at the bottom) and I checked to see if the emitter was flush in the middle.

Next up was bridging the driver to the pill. As you can see, it was a messy attempt and I managed to rip off some of the copper from the circuit. However, I maintained continuity within the circuit (somehow!?) and nothing seemed to be affected.

As you can see, the spring is compressed and I will explain this later on.

Finally, I screwed everything back in to place, put the battery in, and sure enough my first DIY flashlight worked like a charm.

Discussion
I decided to under-power (as some might see it) the emitter as the Convoy S3 looked like a relatively small host and I thought heat dissipation might been an issue. I used a driver that delivered 2100mA and I deemed that it would suffice for its intended use (dog walking at night, searching for stuff etc.).
The driver allows you to change between 2 groups of modes - I find myself using the Low - Medium - High setting the most.
The biggest downfall is the memory setting where it remembers the last mode used based on how long it has been on for. Whilst it is a minor issue, I still prefer off-time memory. I can also hear a high-pitched whine when on medium mode if I listen closely.
Heat dissipation is an issue, even when run at 2100mA. After about 5 minutes on the high setting, the flashlight heats up considerably. I would not say that it is too hot to touch, but I imagine leaving it on for a few more minutes (i.e. 10 minutes) would make it so.

Convoy S3 Host
The host is anodized black and is very well-built. It is shorter than a pen and about as wide as an Australian 10cent coin (sorry that doesn’t really help most of you). It comes with a green reverse clicky tail cap and features a glow-in-the-dark ring just below the lens. It comes with a spare spring and spare retainer ring for the tail cap.

Pros

- very pocketable/EDC

- well machined with decent knurling

- smooth threads

- can tail stand

  • lightweight

Cons

- the lens does not fit flush against the top retainer ring (the silver head bit as seen in the photos) and will rattle

- access to the pill is via the top of the flashlight and can be difficult to access sometimes

  • builds up heat quite quickly
    - Biggest issue is fitting 18650 protected batteries.
    I used a Nitecore NL188 battery (I believe it is the same as the 3100mAh Panasonic) and found that it was difficult to screw the tail cap back on. After I did, the spring on the driver became deformed and would short one of the chip’s legs, causing the flashlight to only display high mode.
    To fix this, I removed the spring from the driver, used a pair of pliers to straighten and compress the spring and then soldered it back on. Now the spring acts more like an extension of the driver than a spring. I haven’t had any issues since this small modification and allows protected batteries to fit much more easily into the host. Width wise, the Convoy S3 provides adequate room.

So that’s that guys. If you have any questions, feel free to comment!
Look forward to posting some more DIY’s/Reviews soon!

It was extremely difficult to get these beamshots right.
I don’t know how much justice these pictures do for the flashlight but I’ve tried to get them to show roughly what they look like in real life.

Control

Low

Medium

High

Very nice build, I was thinking of doing the exact same thing as you, maybe different emitter. Any words on battery life? Looking forward to the beamshots.

Good build and nice review

The lens is loose because you failed to screw the pill down snuggly
I found that it takes a few extra hard twists with a screwdriver in the pill notches at the back to get it to tighten down

It appears you have the short reflector so a TIR dropin is possible with minimal modification

I personally have a 8*7135 in the 3 Convoy S* series lights, but I have custom firmware, STAR V1.1 if/when I go into turbo (wide open) it will run for 2 minutes, then automatically step back to approx 50% the light does dim down but not as much as you might think, thus allowing it to not run as hot. Also with higher frequency PWM the whine is gone. (whine is usually caused by loose grounds) [My first Convoy, the S5 I got at 2100mA as well under recommendation because they do usually heat up pretty quickly, once I got into modding I went ahead and added the 2*7135’s and flashed the firmware, it came stock with the two group modes]

Welcome and excellent build

P.S. Even though you ripped off a section of the ground ring, it is a contiguous ring on the outside of the driver, so as long as you don’t rip off a signaling or power trace you should be good to go

Congrats! Not the prettiest soldering but as long as it works.

Thanks cpfdaniel.
I haven’t tried running it from 4.2V -> low (whatever you consider low, maybe 3.5v?).
I guess it also depends on how much you use it too and on what mode. You can make rough calculations based on the current draw from each mode, and I think I calculated it to be roughly 1 hour on high mode.

Yeah I would go with a different emitter - more so XM-L2. I wasn’t sure what was what back when I ordered it, and should’ve chosen another emitter. Nevertheless this XM-L T5-5C1 has a very warm tone to it - yellowish. You’ll see for yourself when I get around to beamshots!

Haha agreed! I haven’t soldered something for quite a while. I remember one of my first electronic classes was to solder thin rods to make a cube. It was painful to do.

Beamshots added

Nice flashlight and well done. I do not think that 2100mA is underpowered at all in this flashlight, it is quite perfect IMO, and I doubt you see much difference with 3A. It is a nice host, I am tempted to use it sometime too.

Gloh you will find that ample flux works wonders…just be prepared to clean it up

Still excellent build and that S3 with the shiny front cap is quite nice!

Yeah I agree with you djozz. 2100mA and 3A wouldn’t have made a difference significant enough for me to want to run it at that higher current.

I’ll have to look into buying some flux-core solder WarHawk. Pretty sure the solder I own has been around my house for at least 10 years or something.
I personally don’t like the shiny cap! I much prefer mine to be all black (like the S2+ which I will do a build + review on soon).

Interesting that they changed the pill so you can use a screwdriver instead. My S3 and the previous S3s of others were the opposite, the lens was loose because the pill was too far into the body and you would have to raise it up some by unscrewing it a bit until the reflector pressed firmly against the lens.

That seems to be the going issue for me too. The pill is too far in and the reflector is not pressed up against the lens to prevent movement.

Ah might be a design issue, my S2, S2+ and S5 all have pills that you screw into the flashlight front piece (from the battery compartment side), there are notches on the back side of the pill where you can hook a flat tip screwdriver or a snap ring pliers into and get some extra torque

That is true for the S2+, I can confirm that. But the S3 is accessed via the head and not the battery compartment.

Congrats on the build. I'll swap your soldering for mine any day. My main light is running at the same current as yours in a custom host and it still lives on medium or low 95 % of the time. Whats next?

Thanks MRsDNF. Mine needs a lot of polishing. It’s been far too long since I’ve done some electronics work.
Well when I have time I’m probably going to get around to building a filter fan with activated charcoal for my soldering.
More importantly, I have a S2+ host lined up, just waiting for parts as well as a Convoy C8 host coming in.
I also bought some Sinkpads which I will try and reflow using Old-lumen’s soldering iron method.

I have just built one of these for my wife and she loves it.
Qlite driver, XM-L2, AR lens. Panasonic NCR18650.
For the price it’s way better than anything you can get at Wallyworld, plus you made it yourself.
I found that soldering the driver to the pill was surprisingly easy. Maybe I got lucky. I am definitely building another for myself with the 3 up led to use at work.

It is a great light. And it’s very pocketable which is crucial when I look for a flashlight.

I don’t think I cleaned the pill so things didn’t join well. Largely a failure on my part. Won’t be making the same mistake next time though!

When I built my S3, I thought I had the same problem. I was able to make it work by using a long screwdriver inside the host body to hold the pill still. I had the pill positioned so that I had to firmly grip the lens bezel in order to fully tighten it. Doing it this way allowed for the GITD o-ring to compress slightly, holding the lens securely. I get no rattle from the lens, reflector, or anything else on my S3.

So you don’t screw the pill all the way to the bottom and instead use the pressure from the reflector/lens/GITD o-ring to hold it still?