I don’t know about that. Looks different to me. The FT version is brass and much finer machine work. Don’t recall if it had a retaining ring, but I’m pretty sure it has threaded holes to screw down the emitter base and it also had a ground wire. This one looks like copper, not brass. Thicker walls too.
The Chinese word use the same term for both brass and copper. Same as Malay language, “tembaga” for both copper and brass, but we use “tembaga merah” (red copper) for real copper.
There’s a benefit still even if it’s brass, you get some solderability and a bit more mass.
I think it is an brass alloy with very high copper content or indeed copper due to only one thing. The marring from the machining.
It is hard to find anything as easy as brass to turn on a lathe and make it come out nice. You can do a lot of things wrong and still come out looking great. Like using wrong bit, setting wrong cutting and relief angles, wrong rpm, dull bit and even the worst offence when working with a lathe: Not paying attention to what you are doing. It will still often come out looking great.
Copper on the other hand it tricky. it will stick to the tools. Sort of weld itself to them. It dulls tools like crazy too. It will show every little line your tools can leave unless you really use high rpm and very light cuts. It hates being cut on a lathe som much that untill you have tried cutting pure copper you will likely not believe how annoying it can be.
It goes something like this: Going great. Nice surface. Was this supposed to be hard? I am good! POW - BRRRR - <insert choice swearwords here>
Thats my 2 cents. But other than that: Great price. Even for a brass pill as you can solder the copper star to the brass and get a proper thermal interface that moves lots and lots of heat to the host. I wish we knew which host this fit exactly. Then I might get my first C8 lights.
Wouldnt the marks on the surface make for terrible heat transfer even if it was diamond? Thats going to take some prep before you could set your noctigon on it. Ive got a true copper pill for a HD2010, and its nowhere near that rough.
No, what is really important is if the surface is flat; a rough but flat surface will transfer heat very well because although the actual metal/metal contact-surface is small (compared to a surface with mirror finish), the distance that the heat has to travel through that reduced surface area is so small that although the conductance will be a bit less compared to a smooth finish, it is hardly noticable.
(I know there are many mirror-finish believers at BLF, I'm not one of them)
100% sure is brass by the color of it.
The mirror finish idea comes from CPUs where the dissipated power is 90W, much more than your regular 15W (over-driven) XM-L. In the CPU world 2-3Celsius is a great achievement which is what generally a mirror finish will do at 90W, there have been better examples, just that those are rare and after all the cooling in the CPU world is a bit different since it involves fans, which then the fans themselves have various performances from different points of view and features.
I sent a product information request to ahappydeal (changing their name to “dealsmachine”…BTW) and they claim it is copper…so…take that for what it’s worth.