Hmmmm, I didn't receive any email, besides the Thank you for your order.. time to send them an email.
Hey Comfy, I beat you to it!
they just delivered mine!!!
It`s quite a WOLF!! big, good knurling. and 3 driver boards?
few pics coming soon..
Mine is MCE... which I dont mind at all..
pill,reflector is not screw in, but floats.. but just like a P60, it wouldnt be too difficult to improve its heatsinking!
A few snapshots
Wolf Eyes AK6, 6AA Wolf Eyes (non rechargeable) batteries included
$20......a real BARGAIN!!!!
you just have to pay extra for shipping, but if you order 3, you dont need to pay for shipping.
copper part is glued and press fit. no threads.
26650, pill, AA
3 boards....... that doesnt look cheap at all!
MCE
It also includes a nice box, with a very very long lanyard....never received such a long one. and also 6 wolf eyes Li-FeS2 AA batteries...
They are probably lithium batteries.. they have 1.77V
sorry.. havent tested the light yet.. thats what Im now going to do.
update:
edit; PWM is very bad on low.
looks like about 4 modes, then Strobe and SOS.
battery carrier shows 10.xx Volts
the funny thing is that when you activate the switch on the battery carrier, a few very tiny leds light up.... but you wouldnt be able to see that when the carrier is inside the body.
The switch is built-in on the battery carrier
I don’t want to start a discussion like what took place in another recent thread, but what’s pictured is not copper, it’s brass.
- How is the LED retained in the pill?
- I can’t tell for certain from the pics, but it looks like the 3 boards are a contact board, an MCU board, and then a buck or boost board. Can you measure the output voltage from the top PCB to the LED? [The MC-E is flexible in it’s configuration. It can be configured to be effectively 4s1p emitters (buck driver), 2s2p emitters (buck driver or buck/boost driver), or 4s1p (boost driver).]
- What are the diameter of the PCBs in the driver? The MCU board should be easily replaceable with an ATtiny13A based board.
I wonder if the little lights on the carrier are to let you know if the carrier is “hot” while outside the light?
The brass or copper part doesn't mean anything in this light, it could even be plastic..
So you are probably correct.. I don't really know how to tell the difference..and we don't need to discus that here, as that is a very unimportant piece of information with this light, as its not doing much, except for holding the board.. Not for a heatsink etc.
Can't answer your other questions. Pill is glued as well I think, I couldnt take it off.
I agree, NBD on the material of the retaining ring.
I thought those were your pics showing the pill open and PCBs hanging out?
Nice. I’m glad I ordered one. It’s looking like a super deal.
I got my AK6 and it's a pretty nice light. It came in the same nice display box with 6 x Li-FeS2 batteries.
Mine also has the MC-E emitter. I've never had a light with one of these before, except for the RGBW MC-E I built. The RGBW has a big donut hole in the middle, so I was surprised to see a nice clean beam profile. It's daytime now, so I haven't had it out in darkness.
I get a reading of 1.8A at the tail. I guess with 1.5V cells in 2S configuration, you wouldn't be doubling that reading.
I'm just thinking out loud about how moddable this light is. I could swap in an XM-L2, but with cells putting out 3V, that doesn't sound Feasable. I haven't removed the p60 like pill yet, but the bottom seems to be hanging in the air.
I could go 6 x 14500, but don't feel like paying for a matched set.
XP-G2?
I'm in no rush, so if anyone comes up with an idea, throw it out there. Who knows, I just might leave it like this as a long runtime light for power outages...that I rarely have.
The body is built like a tank though. More of a light that wants to be out in the thick of things.
Great you also got em.
I'm thinking about putting an XML in there and see if there is any improvement
Seems like a series mod with a buck driver might be the way to go. I didn’t realize that the battery configuration was 2s3p - that seems like a really big waste. I imagine that boosting from such a low voltage is probably not all that efficient.
I don't think so, I got 10.xx volts from the contact points on the carrier.
6cells at around 1,7volts.
That makes sense to me! I’m not sure what Ouchyfoot was talking about when he said this:
Maybe he was thinking in future tense, after finishing his mod.
What I meant was that with Li-Ions in in a 2S configuration, I would have doubled my reading of 1.8A to calculate what current the emitter was getting, but with 1.5V cells in a 2S configuration and a 3V emitter, 1.8A would be what the emitter is seeing. I think.
See ChibiM’s post. The batteries are in a series configuration. Estimate the driver efficiency as 80-90%. To calculate what the LED is seeing you must convert from Volts & Amps to Watts, multiply by efficiency, and then convert back from Watts to Volts and Amps:
Those Lithium Primary cells should be about 1.2v each under an approximately 2A load. (see HKJ’s review of NICE Lithium AA cells, that’s what I’m guestimating based on)
Therefore 1.2*6= 7.2V input.
You measured 1.8A input
1.8A * 7.2V = 12.96W
now we adjust for efficiency, we do both 80 and 90% at this point since it’s just guesswork.
12.96W * 0.8 = 10.368W
12.96W * 0.9 = 11.664W
I don’t know the vF curve for an MC-E, and I don’t know whether the MC-E is configured in 1s4p, 2sp2, or 4s4p for it’s four dies. Therefore I’m going to pretend it’s an XM-L2 
If MC-E forward voltage is lower than XM-L2 then it’s seeing more current. Here’s the output ballpark… for an XM-L2.
XM-L2 @ 3.5Vf
10.368W / 3.5V = 2.96A (80% efficiency driver)
11.664W / 3.5V = 3.33A (90% efficiency driver)
That’s sloppy and just for estimating.
Okay. I must have missed a chapter somewhere. I always though that six 1.5V cells in a 2S3P setup would be 3V. I guess I’m totally mixed up. I took a measurement of mine at the switch with the factory cells and got a reading of 6.19V. Head scratching time!
They are in 6s1p.
Holy crap. I just checked with my DMM and they’re 6S1P. I just saw all the neg. springs on the bottom and assumed the carrier was 2S3P. I thought I was losing my mind. I couldn’t figure out where you were calculating all that voltage from.