sounds like light abuse [quote=Gj]
I hate when that happens. 
Don't waste energy, at least drop a tea bag or two in there. 
[/quote]
The light probably went about an hour in continuous turbo mode. I shut it down as soon as the tail cap battery state indicator light changed from green to red. Everything still works, no water penetration or fog inside the lens… and I have the added benefit of making some hot tea with all the water it just heated up. :bigsmile: This just might establish a new trend.
Anodizing inspection:
While viewing indoors in natural defused lighting, I thought I could make out a difference in the finish between the head and the battery tube but I couldn’t capture a good photo to illustrate the point. While the color seems to match, the head appeared a bit more shinny. Then I noticed that the flat surfaces of the head reflect light much differently than the tube with all of its rectangular checkered machine work.
Here are several photos while outdoors under natural sunlight during a cloudless day (deliberately oversized for our inspection):
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Pic 9 in the line-up: BTU Shocker, Fenix TK70, Supbeam X60, Supbeam K50.
Its hard to illustrate any variations, and the pics look good. The variation was noted about like can be seen in pic 9, where the K50 head looks a bit shinier than the battery tube. But then the K50 looks flawless every other time I inspected it (accept for the slightly lighter color of the selector ring). So to be on the safe side, you’ll probably get a fantastic light at a really good price where you might detect a slight variation in the sheen if you run around going nuts checking it under different types of lighting until you can find a flaw somewhere. 
Even the TK70 has the exact same notable differences, probably because of the same type of checkering in the battery tube that reflects light differently. For my personal scrutiny, I will give the finish a 9.7 out of 10 when compared to other expensive large lights in perfect immaculate condition (which most of them are not perfect examples) which will bring this directly back in line of what most of us will expect who already own similar lights of this size and cost. The camera also picked up all the rough handling Ive been giving it, leaving pieces of skin from my hands and other particulate lodged on the surfaces. It cleaned up nicely and Im convinced that this it a hard type 3 ano finish. The imperfection on the side of the tailcap (Pic 4 lower right corner) seemed like what might have been contact adhesive and came off with a rub. Of all the lights Ive owned, Ive never spent so much time trying to find imperfections in a finish. But since the K50 fiasco, I know we will all want to have a close look.
Let me know if you guys see anything you want me to look at and I can take another look.
Now about the rest of the light, its fitted and finished to near perfection and a great amount of care and detail went into its correct final assembly. As far as light mods go, Id advise against it. The light is already well driven and the screws retaining the driver are glued. Im sure you could break in, but why? It looks like even some of Vinh’s modded X60 lights became screwed up after his mods. The bezel on mine wasnt glued, so I might consider a dedome and emitter swap later down the road, but probably not until after much higher XM-L series emitters and bins are introduced. Even with a huge deeply finned head, this light gets hot in turbo mode. I tested it in hot stagnant air and will know more during a hike through cool evening air tonight… but its driven hard so it will get hot, just as expected. Any more amperage to the emitters will make it run that much hotter, so why even think about pushing it any further? The human eyes will barley detect the differences of another 1000 lumens in a light like this. Remember that it takes about a 20% increase in emitted light for the human eyes to even detect a difference in luminosity. Alright, enough said. My glued screws will remain that way and the light will be used as delivered to keep my warranty intact.
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The bezel unscrewed with mine and the reflector drops right out.
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Notice the great advice on the label.
I suspect is will be immanent, but will post a warning so everyone can gear up with their paypal accounts. I hope we get a response over the weekend and not during the work week.
FP, those are nice pics, now hurry up and reveal the price already, i’ve been so patient!!! can’t wait for the price but doesn’t matter i’m pretty sure i’ll get one because it is basically the same size of the btu, i thought it would be alot bigger. it’s a done deal for me. now i gotta search for a good set of batteries, do you have any recommendation?
Heat issue in my TK75? ehm.. yes and no..
75W + watt is technically too much for that light. Its technically too much even for larger lights. :D But it really depends on the environment and the type of use. With enough cold, wind, rain it should be able to run on the highest setting for a long period without stepping down. The other day I had it going for about 6-8 minutes before the 90C thermal protection kicked it and lowered output. Its warm to hold, but far from burning hot. I did hold it a bit towards the back, since there is a lot of heat especially around the switches, and forwards. It was a bit windy, and that certainly helped. A cold winter day with some wind, I would not be surprised to be able to run it without stepdown. If heat is an issue for extended use, I can just go down one level, or two. That is what modes are for. And Ive got lots of them. :)
Indoor, no wind. It will become stupid hot in very few minutes, but then it will jump to lower mode.
I MUCH prefer temperature based step down compared to the ones based on timers. (Flashpilot, temperature based step down. Acebeam lights needs that.)
X60 is quite a lot larger compared to TK75. And Im guessing its "just" running around 3A to each emitter before step down. So im at about 75W at the emitters in my TK75. X60 is at around 50W. Needless to say, it will run hotter.
As for modding it. Like ive mentioned in PM. From a modding perspective, Im not a fan of the stock electronics in these lights. Especially those with the built in charging and fancy electronics in the carrier. Im not liking the possible issues with the carrier and such, and if its like the K50 and other lights, the gain is not that much.
I did like what ryansoh3 said. "You may feel like the light doesn’t need extra tuning but some of us just can’t have stock lights." Spoken like a true modder.
I don't think Supbeam have purposely built their lights to not be mod friendly in terms of electronics. I would like to see that they were more mod friendly though, because they would probably sell much more then. (Flashpilot, Acebeam needs more mod friendly lights!)
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how are the indents? especially between max and strobe? any chance of accidentally hitting strobe?
Is there any chance of a X60M GB?
There is a variable turn design with the selector ring that acts as a dimmer switch between 1 - 99. When at 100, it locks into a detent. You have to deliberately move it past that detent and into the next one over for it to be in strobe mode. Even if you forget that you’re already in max setting, there is enough resistance in the spring detent to remind you that you’re already in that setting and that some force needs to be applied to move it into the next detent.
Hang in there guys, Im always fighting to sweeten the deal for everyone. Its all about the fun, right? They might consider selling parts outside of the warranty for the lunatics in this forum if you pay for the parts and shipping. Yeah baby! :bigsmile: Many very good things are on the table, thanks to the learning process we are all taking together in developing better flashlights. As I mentioned, they are serious about being number one. Change doesnt come quickly enough at times within huge structured organizations, and often the seeds need to be planted several times before they can sprout. They are listening and discussing the direction of their company with the lessons learned from other mistakes and misunderstandings. I think we actually have OL to thank for a lot of it, because his strong personality (nasty disposition ) actually exposed some of the weaknesses that would not have been realized otherwise.
As an aside, thanks for everyone’s consideration in purchasing a good set of matching name brand cells for your high powered lights. No one here wants to see any of us get injured and possibly lose a life. Well, alright… we all have to die at some point. But please…. not by catastrophic failure of Chinese produced lithium cells! Go kill yourself in a plane, car or bike… chasing sexy women. Then we wont feel so bad after you die and say stuff like, “I hope I get to die doing something like that when the time comes.”
Maybe some day in the future if the light comes into full production, has the backing of several fine reviews and proves itself to be a desirable and reliable performer that betters its competition. Anything else is just speculation.
After 3 minutes it would have dropped down to around 3500lm though, correct?
How do you purchase cells from the same batch? Dealers stocks run down, they reorder over and over. You can order 6 cells at once, but how do you assure a matched set?
Also, which is better, Sun tea or Flashlight tea? 
Im sorry, I didnt check that. I will check it later during the lux tests this evening.
The only consolation if I don’t go out like that will be the fact I’m not around to be disappointed :bigsmile:
I’ll use my own tea bags thank you! As long as you buy stock from a large high volume outlet, the chances are great that you will receive cells from the same batch. You can also request it and tell them that a paypal dispute will arise if they dont comply. The date and batch codes embossed or printed on the side of the cells should all match. I have yet to find a recent manufacture high quality cell that did not come very closley matched to all the other cells in the same batch. I also test all my resting voltages before and after each and every run to verify performance or find any that might be lacking.
On Acebeam’s website I thought the chart said five minutes.
How are those night shots coming along? I hope they show the hotspot.
Good news strikes again! Component parts, such as drivers will be available for a purchase price plus shipping. Large parts, such as heads, etc., will not be available for separate purchase. Pricing and availability have yet to be set so dont ask. Opening up your light will definitely void your warranty, so please keep that in mind. Also, if you receive an electronic part that is dead on arrival, you’ll probably be stuck with it and eat the cost. They have no way of knowing if the person blew it out or if it was dead to begin with. They are checked thoroughly for proper operation before leaving the factory so they have confidence in the product.
Having said that, if their parts start showing up in flashlights others than Acebeam/Supbeam, there is a darn good chance that they will stop selling those nifty spares all together, so please keep that in mind and dont abuse the privilege. Doing so will ruin it for a lot of others, and I’ll be the first to have you flogged before paying sb56637 several thousands of dollars to permanently ban your ass! :bigsmile: Then there’s the predator drones that will be retasked for their new “seek and destroy” mission over your home.
Im still talking with Acebeam in their company meeting…