You’re only getting 2.3A for the BLF? That’s not on turbo is it? I was getting around 4.5A stock and 4.85A after braiding the driver spring with my 3D. That was with an off the charger Sanyo FM.
One of my three seems to be more of a “hair trigger” — takes extra care to make the switch go just-far-enough without having a full click happen.
I’d been figuring it was just my old shaky hands having trouble being precisely firm enough and no more. Maybe it will “wear out” or “wear in” with a little more exercise.
Got a 3D and 5A today. Agree with Fritz on the quality of the body and threads - very good, I've seen better threading, but definite quality. I'm wondering if the issues of varying thickness's of the tube can be attributed to the width of the bare aluminum on the tube end? That can be deceptive - the threading will make the tube wall diameter appear to vary when it doesn't vary at all, it's just the way the threading ends where the final cut/finish is. Unless you have a precise way of measuring the wall thickness down from the threads, I'm suspecting the cuts are centered well, though the bare aluminum on the tube ends appears to vary in thickness.
The 3D looks great in both beam, tint, and performance. The 5A came out of the box with a XP-L under stress - the LED centering piece was so forcefully driven, it appeared to twist the LED slightly, or caused the LED to rotate maybe when it was run the first time. The LED centering piece was actually partially over the LED board, directly digging into the dome. The tint was noticeably yellow, so I took pics, carefully removed the bezel, and with it all apart, the dome was already partially lifted off the LED - it was lifted up on one side, and easily came of with a slight nudge from a tweezer. This is not normal of course. It seems like the reason it occurred is because the MCPCB was jammed into the head to fit, but it really didn't fit - it wasn't fully flat. I could tell it wasn't flat by the thickness of the thermal grease, and concentrated only in the middle. The "BLF" was about 50% scratched off, and the edges of the MCPCB that stuck out were bent up. So, a lot of force was applied, like from a needlenose or screwdriver in an attempt to get the MCPCB flat. They could have sanded/dremeled the corners of the MCPCB that stuck out, but instead tried to use force.
For me, this means a LED replacement - I could re-use the MCPCB if I want to, after cleaning it up, sanding the edges down.
So if the tint looks excessively yellow, check the LED out carefully. I got one out of two done this way, so it could be the only one, or could be quite a few.
Btw, the MCPCB appears to be a perfect mimic of a Noctigon, or is a re-labeled Noctigon: form/size is the same, traces are the same, and the back and edges have the thin gold on nickel finish, just like a Noctigon.
The LED wires appear to me to be Teflon coated and not silicone - they are stiff, as stiff as the Teflon coated wire I have in the same sizes.
You’re probably not doing it fast enough. Turn the light on, then half-press the button quickly anywhere from 15 to 30 times.
It should eventually stop lighting up immediately, which is how you can tell it’s in config mode. You can then let it do its thing with no further action, to see what will happen. It should pause, blink, blink, pause, blink, blink, pause, then exit back into a normal mode. The entire process, from the first click until it exits config mode, should take about 8 or 9 seconds… and the initial fast-pressing should only take 2 or 3 seconds.
After seeing what it does, you should be able to go back and change the settings. Click the light off during either of the two sets of blinks, and it should toggle a config setting.
Tom - Please send and email to the address below and get the new LED and MCPCB.
Thank you for verifying what we said about Noctigon under the emitter. We cannot use that name on a component under any circumstances, as per Noctigon
****************************************************************************************
This is a repost and I will try and do that at least once per day for those that do not see or miss it......
Also in the OP:
For those that are having issues with their light, you can use this email address: heyanqing1@banggood.com
That is directly to Neal's assistant. They will help us get any problems ironed out.
This includes getting tailcap and switch replacements
******************************************************************************************
I think you’re right. I had exactly the same issue, the blinking for switching between 4- and 7-mode groups doesn’t light up as well. As you can read in comments #4340 - #4361.
So for the ones with this issue that want to repair their lights theirselves, it’s very likely a bad solder joint on one of the 7135’s legs. You can test it with a DMM. When opening the head, there’s a risk of damaging the LED. Therefore I would firmly hold down the lens (not too much force, it’s glas, you could break it) when unscrewing the bezel to help the torque you’re producing doesn’t act as much on the LED through the centering adapter. This also applies for tightening down the bezel during reassembling. When you have the driver in your hands, you could test for continuity with a DMM first. Looking from the 7135 towards the centre of the driver, you should see continuity between the left leg of the 7135 and the nearest leg of the MCU, if not, one of these two solder joints would be bad and you would have to remelt them with a soldering iron and check again for continuity. Same thing for continuity you should see between the leg in the middle of the 7135 and the outer ring (GND) of the driver, and continuity between the right leg of the 7135 and LED-… You shouldn’t find continuity between any of the three 7135’s legs and another.
So… the X6v2 is supposed to be factory-dedomed (XP-L HI), but not the A6. I know the XP-L is really easy to de-dome by accident, but it shouldn’t be happening in the factory.
Being as meticulous as I am about pretty much everything, it’s really frustrating to hear about the poor QC happening here.
My multimeter can’t reliably measure more than an amp… so I leave the amp measurements to Dale. But I can measure lumens pretty well, and I got 1351 lumens out of a stock BLF A6 3D.
I doubt you’ll get very accurate amp readings without a clamp meter. I know I don’t.
Edit: I tried my slightly-less-cheap DMM and measured only 3.5A. However, when I hook the light up to my 5-amp bench power supply, the PSU maxes out at about 5.4A and can’t provide as much current as the light wants to draw. I’d suggest comparing lumens on turbo instead of amps, unless you want to know the runtime.
Weak cells will have a lot of voltage sag on turbo and possibly on the next-highest level too. Don’t be surprised if the light output drops while using a weak cell, because it may step itself down (due to LVP) until it gets to a level the cell can handle.
Key phrase in fritz’ post: “With the same cell and cheap multi-meter I read:…”
Ok, email sent, requesting they ship a XP-L/MCPCB replacement, stating the specifics. Just wanted to post details in case others see a similar problem. Thought someone mentioned a yellow tint earlier.
Well, we see it happen all too often, maybe due to the rush to get out so many quickly in these insane group buys, maybe they bring on assemblers not so experienced on these things, but I've (sure many of us have) seen QC issues on higher end lights, like the $150 ThruNite's, leaving the wrapping covering on the backside of the MCPCB's, etc. Sometimes you think they just ran out of screws or grease, and stopped applying them for a remainder of a batch - it's gotta be crazy where this stuff gets built and assembled.
Mine keeps on “pause, blink, blink” without exiting to a normal mode.
Turned off after the second something like “pause, blink, blink” hopefully to set memory mode. Memory mode is not set.
Try reading the instructions in this link: http://bazaar.launchpad.net/~toykeeper/flashlight-firmware/trunk/view/head:/ToyKeeper/blf-a6/blf-a6.txt
It sounds as if you are stuck in the batt check mode.
Again..turn light on and keep half-pressing until light does not come on and STOP half pressing at that point until you see..flash..pause...flash....long pause...flash..pause...flash
My batch of 10 is actually very very nice!
The threads are fine with me, and the ease of double click into hi beam is brilliant These all work with no serious problems. The clip tabs don’t bother me as I expected, and even made it easy to open and install clip while tail cap is off. Knurling reminds me of Convoy S6, very fine smooth silky feel.
The contact and open circuit problems I’m hearing about remind me of my Convoy S5, when the pill was tightened in to much and it lost contact with the tube. Because, those threads were anodized, and nothing prevented the pill from threading to far into the head I had to leave the pill slightly backed out for the tube to reach its contact surface. Remember to wipe down contact surfaces a couple times a year. That prevents problems due to a bad connection. These lights that use 18650 batteries pass allot of current and need a near perfect electrical connection.
So, a BIG SHOUT out to all who did their time and loved the race that made this light so great. Thanks
I’ve identified a few nit picks - only for my interest of stats - not as a complaint:
One has 3 times the moon intensity of the other 9, and it’s a 3B.
One 1A with tint half way to 3B
4 tubes with nicks in finish that are at the clip groove. (indicating lack of care from assembly line worker I think?)
5 clips that I needed to bend to tighten clamping force of the fingers.
I received my lights today! One each 3d and 5a. I will not post anything negative so I’ll leave it up to you to decide what I left out. 
both came apart easily and threads were lubed. No Doa’s just a little twist on the tail to get one of them on (I almost got scared until I remembered the anodize doesn’t conduct!) I’ve not had enough time with the ui yet but I’ve never seen modes like it. It’s fricken awesome though. I got decent at going forwards and backwards but not at getting to batt check and bike (go backwards from moon!) because I didn’t have the manual out. I had my 2d maglite handy so I was comparing them all. They put out a lot of ambient light with a ceiling bounce. Beat my mag by miles! Can’t decide which tint I like best yet. 3d seems the most natural and the 5a puts a great tone on the wall. Once again way easier on the eyes then my maglite. I will have to take them to work and see. I did tailcap turbo amperage with a cheesy dmm. 3d - 3.84amps and 5a - 3.5amps. Got both springs bypassed in the 3d and current went up to 4.1. That’s all I have for tonight. I have taken some pics of color comparison and some of the guts and bypasses. I’m pretty new so if you’re really wanting to know some pros do have beam shots already up!
Edit: also meant to say that in order not to blind myself I was pointing it at the palm of my hand and the bounce still made me look away! And the beam from the orange peel is the shiznizzle. Haha don’t know how else to describe it!
Once again I want to say thank you to all who made this happen it’s been such a fun experience and I’m so grateful my first quality flashlight was this group buy! 
:bigsmile:
Hello everybody ordered light Friday night, and expedited shipping 7-9 days. Just talked to bang good and light is out of stock for eight days, so their goes some money faster shipping but if I get a working light I’ll be happy.
I just replaced the FET with an NXP PSMN6R5-25YLC and confirmed that the turbo-to-moon flash is gone.
The original FET is marked:
3R030
PBm
1429 C7
9145
My replacement is marked:
6R525L
PBm
1502 B5
1981
NXP has two variants of the 3R030: PSMN3R0-30YL and PSMN3R0-30YLD. The PSMN3R0-30YL is the older model still in production, so I’m guessing this is what Manker used.
The dynamic characteristics (capacitances and delay times) of the PSMN3R0-30YL are considerably worse than that of the PSMN6R5-25YLC.
We might be seeing the effect of dv/dt turn on as described here and here.
This is an awesome light! I have to agree with the other posts about the great quality. And it’s so bright! Ordered in the 19th and it arrived today! Nicely packed in a box with internal padding and wrapped in several layers of thin foam sheet. Thanks everyone who made this happen!
The 1A is still in stock, and the 3D and 5A are expected Sep 6th. Anyone have any idea if the quality will change on the new batch? I love the one that works, but still am frustrated to receive a completely DOA light.
How much lumens would this put out with a standard keeppower 3400mah?