I’m going to need a new chair. I can’t seem to stop falling out of this one.
Thank you for tying that up so neatly, nailing both questions, entirely satisfying my nagging curiosity. These are the flashlights I’m looking for…
Well, you asked 
. Of course we'd love true current controlled modes and the ability to run on any cell that could fit, but our priority is on max power, and all these features plus max power doesn't currently exist in the size and cost goals, and/or engineering ability.
Don’t forget that with ToyKeepers Bistro firmware, programming the light for just these two modes is very doable. I don’t pretend to understand the interface, and probably wont until I have it in my hands. (And likely will make it work the way I want it and forget how to do it again!) PWM is a very effective method of controlling the current flow and thus intensity, and at the high frequencies that are being run, it is unlikely that you will notice unless you are VERY sensitive to such things.
As I understand it, Bistro allows you to choose what modes the light cycles through, and in what order, as well as choosing mode memory on or off.
My Narsil firmware mode #2 is exactly as I described (no PWM's - 2 modes) and I believe Bistro mode #7 is the same thing. Both, user programmable.
The temperature sensor issue has been addressed with a couple manufacturers we know, and I haven’t seen a solution…yet…but I think it is being worked on.
I believe the temp sensor needs to be integrateded into the emitter MCPCB somehow with a new emitter board design, or other means. After all, that is where the heat is being generated.
The Atiny 25 has a sensor…but…it is on the driver. The driver experiences heat lag/temp. fluctuations, and therefore can not give a real-time idea of actual temp.
I approached a board mfr with this idea, but, again do not have any feedback. I’ve heard that another board manufacturer was working on this independently as well.
I recall the Luxeon Star Sinkpad 2 provides a dedicated temperature sensor point on the board — not a sensor, but a point to which a sensor can be epoxied to get measurement suitable to meet their spec for operation.
(pictures at p. 5 of the PDF): http://www.luxeonstar.com/assets/downloads/sp-01.pdf
Following that is the formula for calculating the junction temperature.
Manker, I can't see your pictures.
Please repost them, &/or provide other links.
Thank you Very Much,
George
I’m in for a SS/CU NW + box , if still possible , thanks
I cant imagine all the work that goes into a GB like this but… I have to admit that I thought that the “other side” was to be used for the limited number etching. hey I like Krono just fine, but I would rather have the limited edition number on my light.
I know that it is not realistic to expect organizing the numbers with preferences but any number 1-400 does it for me. I think “other” builds should/could have the Kronos logo.
One more thing I thought BLF was the “brand” and that X5/X6 was the model. Maybe Kronos on the box for this “limited” go around. Once things are past the limited number then cool, lets have the Kronos version of the build as opposed to all the soon to be clones.
$.02
On my BLF X6-SE the Silicone switch boot is 14mm. Will these also be 14mm or will you be using the more common 16mm size?
My guess says these lights have the 14mm boot diameter just based on how it looks on the pictures. 16mm looks significantly larger in comparison to the tube size.
14mm is the most common boot size, not 16mm. The 14mm is the one used on almost all Surefire P60 drop-in clones along with the McClicky switch.
eh, not in my experience. All Convoy lights are 16mm, as are a lot of larger lights. I was hoping that this groupbuy would bring 16mm clear boots back to the market, but that doesn’t look like it will happen.
I think up until this GB, “BLF” was kinda the brand but another step has now been taken to further distinguish this GB’s team from previous BLF projects which were made up of different teams, albeit with some of the same members as this GB’s team.
Any future BLF project with this GB’s team will be branded as KRONOS from now on.
Recently, I have been using the following moniker.
BLF Limited Edition Kronos X6 and X5 Flashlight Set
The individual names I have been using are:
BLF Limited Edition Kronos X6
and
BLF Limited Edition Kronos X5
I hope this is not too far off from the official naming. How am I doing?
Yeah, about that… apparently Astrolux is a house brand of Mankers. More long discussions could be extended there, but since that has nothing to do with this (to date) we should probably not go there.
The X6 and X5 in this group buy use 14mm boots, as do all the X6’s we bought in the BLF Special Edition run. So, popularity being a thing of numbers, and with the A6 also having a 14mm boot, it would appear that 14mm is the most popular size of boot in these classes of lights. Technically, each of the SE runs of A6 and X6 are in a different class, and the C8 is in yet another. I would think the size and diameter of the heads would be the class indicator, but I’d probably be wrong because that’s usually how it shapes up when I think.
There are also 14mm on Olight Javelot’s, Solarforce, Sunwayman…
Perhaps clear 16’s could be custom ordered through one of the bigs, Intl Outdoor or Illumn or someone?
Interesting the A6 uses 14mm, I didn’t know that. Convoy uses 16mm, and Solarforce are split. Usually the Solarforce tails that can tailstand use 14mm, the others use 16mm. Generally there are more color options in 16mm than 14mm. Maybe I can convince Simon to source them…
Anyways thanks for confirming my fears.
All well reasoned.
But… when I see “Limited Edition” art with out the numbers series I think ya ya ya …
But… when I see “Limited Edition” art with the XXX/NNN numbers series I think, ya I can see that.
Bottom line I think it would be best (read most valued) to go with XXX/400 on each light. matched sets. technically the Alu I don’t think quantity because I have a hunch that any number would be able to be purchased but the SS/Cu is “limited” to 400 sets so lets put it in writing! 
I am pretty sure that organizing XXX set goes to YYY member is just too much organization aka labor to come to fruition we should prepare our selves 
But I still want to see “XXX/NNN” aka (a real limited edition) in fact if the “Kronos” “B” side placement is not negotiable (I still think the best place for this is the “B” side) then I would rather have the real numbers then just the generic words “Limited Edition” on the “A” side. I hope you guys can follow my reasoning.
To support my case I would like to enter into evidence the relevant portions the postings from 7/10-7/20
7/20/15
I appreciate your willingness to help, Hirshy (and others). Please feel free to update me and I will make the changes necessary when time allows (on S/N swaps).
Everyone, please keep in mind that this is an interest list and nothing is written in concrete yet (specs, timeframes etc.)…including no guarantee of S/N assignment. As stated previously, it is likely to be a logistical nightmare…so please don’t expect it! We will do our best to make it happen, but, ultimately, it is about the lights, not S/N placement. I am also not sure if we will be able to mix tints within a set also, but I will check on it. Smile
Thanks for everyone’s effort and patience!
kronos
7/11/15
Some interesting suggestions on improving this setup! We will discuss them all and see what we can do.
Keep in mind that these lights will be *Serial Numbered*…so…the sooner you get you name on the list, the lower the S/N you will receive!
krono
7/10/15
Time to roll out the second version of the BLF X6-SE light. This time it will be a set! Smile
Meet the additional design team members: DBCstm (Dale), JohnnyMac and Bugsy36 (George). We will be putting the light through it’s paces, and tweaking the samples to our liking. The light will be available again through Neal/BangGood.
In addition to new a driver with MORE AMPS, firmware and emitter, the outside will have some attractive changes as well…mainly Stainless Steel and Copper! Here are some preliminary specs for each light:
X6-SE v2 Stainless Steel:
>Polished Stainless Steel Host with copper fin/pill section
>Shared Gift Box
>Serial Numbered
>BLF Custom Logo
K6 Copper:
>Shared Gift Box
>Matching Serial Number
>BLF Custom Logo
Quote ended, me again:
So maybe I missed it, but if “Kronos” is used for the “B”side then where is the promised Limited Edition Serial Number going to go?
Again The GB team aka the Brain Trust has done a Ton of work.
But to maximize value possible, Even if it means at the cost of the GB team branding the XXX/NNN promised serial numbers should be a priority. If both the XXX/NNN S/N and the existing proposed script/text can all fit on the light (cool)! but if something has to go I say the last to go should be “BLF” “X5/X6” and the promised “XXX/NNN” serial numbers.
What to my mind remains if room permits is the (now a bit redundant words) “Limited Edition” and the GB team brand “Kronos” (truly no offense intended) but I find “Kronos” to be less important to fit on the light then the Brand BLF, Model X5/X6 and the promised limited edition serial number XXX/NNN
Who agrees that
- BLF
- X5 or X6
- the XXX/NNN serial numbers need to be included on the light?
(the question of what is the emoticon for a crowd of villagers with pitch forks and burning sticks comes to mind
I didn’t realize the numbering was even still up in the air. I thought it was stated all along that these will be serial numbered, matched sets of lights. Each participants number isn’t guaranteed, but getting a numbered light is. Or so I thought.
Lights will have serial numbers as well as the Kronos logo on it. The plan is to also have a matching serial number on the box as well