BLF Kronos X6/X5 GB - Group Buy now closed.

[ToyKeeper]

@DB Custom

Oh, uh, I forgot… I’ve got a single FET driver just like these but without the low moon capability running 16 emitters in my Meteor. :bigsmile:

That’s the one I was referring to. That runs around 60A, right?

[ToyKeeper]

@KeepingItLight

I’m not asking about tint, but rather if XP-L HI is an option, or perhaps whether XP-L HI is the only option.

I’m not 100% sure, but I think XP-L HI will probably be the only option. The focusing works differently for XP-L vs XP-L HI, and the HI gives better throw and tint. So, I’m hoping for XP-L HI. This would also eliminate de-doming issues like on the A6.

The two can’t both be in good focus with the same reflector and other hardware, since the focal point shifts up or down depending on the emitter.

[root]

Somehow I don’t see myself on the list.

[Rufusbduck]

Root you will get in he just hasn’t updated the list yet.

[root]

Thanks. I’m new to the BLF GB system so I was a bit nervous :weary:

[nfetterly]

Please add me to the SS/Cu list (XP-L HI) as well as the aluminum list (XP-L HI).

I definitely need to spend more time here.

Thanks! Neale

[FatherAzmodius]

I’m in for the SS/CU set. I’d actually like 2 sets, but didn’t read through the entire post……ADD can be annoying, but just for a little while.

So to be clear….2 sets of SS/CU lights in NW

[gadabout]

Can't resist any longer, these really just look too sweet..

1 set SS/CU in NW please. XP-L HI

Thanks to all involved for the massive amount of work getting this together.

[ReManG]

Any knowledge yet on the emitter bins? I am currently down for NW, but if the XP-L HI is a V3 or better I would be up for that, or a Nichia 219c…

[Diffuser]

Please put me in for one set SS/CU NW Thank you much.

[Wieselflinkpro]

Which Emitters will be build into the flashlights. XP-L (HD) or XP-L High Intensity?

[bugsy]

Dat copper and engraving… ::drooling::

[Frankie_Baby]

put me down for another ss/cu

[hank]

I’m hoping for XP-L HI. This would also eliminate de-doming issues like on the A6.

j

Oh dear god please, listen to TK, and do not, nope, don’t rush into production before this is
— understood
— figured out
— sampled
— checked
— verified
— better check that one more time just to make sure

I don’t mind waiting til 2016, if it avoids another self-beheading LED fiasco.

Now, despite that self-de-doming, ‘it’s good, though’ — I’m not complaining.

Because

What they do is they wait to find out who bitches and whines and pisses and moans the most about the cooking, and they say “all right wise-guy, you think you can do better, you get to be the cook”

[jescereal]

Is it okay if my Al X6’s #55 and #78 be removed and I get put down for one SS/Cu WW instead?

[kronological]

@jescereal

Is it okay if my Al X6’s #55 and #78 be removed and I get put down for one SS/Cu WW instead?

Sure

[kronological]

@FatherAzmodius

I’m in for the SS/CU set. I’d actually like 2 sets, but didn’t read through the entire post……ADD can be annoying, but just for a little while.

So to be clear….2 sets of SS/CU lights in NW

You are down for two, just not next to eachother on the list

[kronological]

@root

Thanks. I’m new to the BLF GB system so I was a bit nervous :weary:

I gotcha!

[DB_Custom (Dale)]

The simple and easy way to GUARANTEE the led is not dedomed is simply to leave it alone and don’t remove the bezel.

This is already a hot rod, spring bypasses are not done under the bezel so if you just have to tweak it for all it’s worth, do it at the driver contact and switch spring and leave the bezel alone.

I have begun to understand why manufacturer’s glue lights together. It’s the only way you can guarantee a light. And I would think that everyone that cracks one open knows full well that they do so on their own dime. The old “You break it, you bought it” saying.

[mjgsxr]

SS/CU NW 1 set Thanks

Hello all
New around here. Have been following your work on all your blf se lights. Great job. Couldn’t pass these up so signed up.