I know you were not referring specifically to my beamshots, but I wanted to make it totally clear that the comparative ones I did at Minnekhada Park, further back in the thread, were also somewhat brighter than they looked in real-life to my eyes. However I also wanted to better illustrate the differences between the various lights and not have them look too dark overall, especially the dimmer ones. Since it was more or less pitch black outside, just a little sky-glow from city lights, my eyes were quite well dark-adapted so my photos are not too much brighter than what I saw, but they certainly are a little.
The other variable is monitor calibration. There can be dramatic differences in brightness from one computer to another. I have my high-end, hardware-calibrated NEC SpectraView PA271 calibrated for matching print output, which tends to make things a bit darker, with a warmer tone too. My display is calibrated to a 5000K white-point and most “normal” monitors are at 6500K plus, which can alter the colour balance and perceived contrast of images too. Therefore, some of you might be seeing my beamshots much brighter than I am. This variability in displays makes it near impossible to create a single beamshot from one light that will be accurate for all that are viewing it. The best way, in my view, is always have numerous other lights for comparison, with the exposure and white-balance locked down in the camera and with all raw photos post-processed in exactly the same way, which is what I always do…
Could someone knowledgeable about the driver mark up a picture indicating which components near the edge are definitely NOT safe to be accidentally grounded, if the board shifts sideways?
Maybe a bit of that paint-on insulation could be used to protect those components?
When I pulled my pill out the driver was obviously off center (the ground ring visible as a crescent on one side).
Also the spring was coiled off-center (so the contact point was over to one side, not centered); seemed more likely to “lean” that way.
The light works so I didn’t mess with that besides adding a layer of tape onto the pill so I can try a bigger cell eventually.
The EU batch based on the times given previously should have arrived by now, what gives? Is it being held to have fixes applied before sale? Would be nice to know. Even better to see the agreed spec being honoured…
I imagine a lot of the EU buyers will be like me, leaning towards not buying unless they see some sort of positive action to resolving faults.
Assuming fixes are included on new stock I would love to see a good review of the improved version before buying, my confidence of getting a quality light rather than a turkey is seriously dented at the moment.
I think you are referring to me.
Normally I am a quiet person but anyway I don’t accept this type of behavior.
First of all where do you take this image?
If you know where, you would read that is referring to a previous stage in the prototyping of the COMETA in the specific case: Jax Z1 + BLF A6 driver + 16 AWG wire
So I think you can understand that the Turbo level is more bright that the actual COMETA.
In all my beamshots I use the same camera settings: f2,8 - 5sec exposure time 200 ISO (my camera can’t go below) in complete darkness environment.
And I don’t make any type of advertising since I am not the vendor or the manufacturer of this light.
The EU stock after being overhauled by the manufacturer is now in transferring to the warehouse.
I think is necessary one week to complete the transfer.
When it will be available I will send the EU stock codes.
1° stage requested: The first idea was a Jax Z1 with XP-L HI on 20mm copper star, 3,5 A on Turbo mode and of course CPFItalia engraving
1° stage received: Jax Z1 with XP-L HI on 16 mm copper star, stock driver without any modification, no engraving
2° stage requested: 22mm BLF A6 driver, XP-L HI on 20mm copper star, 18 AWG wires
2° stage received: 22mm BLF A6 driver, XP-L HI on 20mm copper star, 16 AWG wires mounted myself on the Jax Z1 already received
3° stage requested: 22mm BLF X6v2 driver instead of BLF A6, 20 AWG wires instead of 16 because the right compromise between thickness and current.
3° stage received: 17mm X6v2 driver,XP-L HI on 16mm copper star, 24 AWG wires in a redesigned brass pill
The insulating washer certainly.
I told to Neal to insulate the solder points on MCPCB and to return in specs for the wires. I will be listening? I don’t know.
Lie :
A lie is a statement that is known or intended by its source to be misleading, inaccurate, or false. The practice of communicating lies is called lying, and a person who communicates a lie may be termed a liar. Lies may be employed to serve a variety of instrumental, interpersonal, or psychological functions for the individuals who use them.
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I can’t comment on the rest of the world… but I can on the USA.
Our “”laws“” you refer to SUCK… whether it be a product or service in question.
Consumers cannot be, nor should be expected to be informed about every single product or service they choose.
They are relying on hopefully…. the “Professional” that is offering the product or service.
Those who’s “business plan” or “marketing strategies” are based partly or solely on lies…… should be given one opportunity to clean up their act, with very heavy fine of course.
After that, if they continue; they should be dealt with immediatly…… with prejudice or extreme prejudice…. whatever the case calls for.
That might make other “crooks” think twice before doing the same BS.
AND, just to be clear… I AM NOT talking about this COMETA problem at all.
We have all already been informed by a few others that stuff like this “just happens” in a first round “Group Buy” and it is just part of the “game” that is played when dealing with China, etc., etc.
And that if we “grovel & play the game” everything will almost assuredly turn out just fine.
So while I do not agree with that necessarily, it must be so.
Who am I to argue with it…. they say it works for them………. … :innocent:
Personally though, if I wanted to play a game; I’d go to WalMart and buy one…. …. YMMV,
Might be possible to find a “top hat” washer with a central tube that would surround the spring and fit around the outside edge of the driver, to keep it from shifting off center, and a “brim” wide enough to cover the whole pill.
I suspect the main problem is the Pill design from my observations. The driver sits too deep, (retainer should be flush) the driver spring should bottom out and stop the battery from touching the back of the pill and shorting out. The inner diameter of the driver seat , for component’s clearance is too small and the O.D. (retainer diameter) is too big, and might allow (possibly) components on the driver to short out on the inside. I also suspect this is a possible problem, because when I checked my other JAX X6 pills which is a 22mm driver based pill. The inner diameter (component clearance) is (21mm) the outer diameter (retainer) is (22.5mm), and the retainer sits flush with the back of the pill, with a 1.5-1.65mm thick driver board. I burned up 2 new BLFA6 drivers, one of them with the pill outside the body of the light. BG has agreed to replace ALL of the parts I lost. Just my .002 cents?
Hm. Or, if the little round holes in the driver are consistently placed, matching little holes in the washer, so both would turn at the same time as the driver got screwed down?
I dunno. There’s only so much you can do to patch up a mistake.
Fair enough sharpie I give in.
I have asked a polite question & yet again you have jumped down my throat.
I will delete the question & not bother posting in this thread again.
You win.
… :innocent:
…. YMMV, 
I burned up 2 new BLFA6 drivers, one of them with the pill outside the body of the light. BG has agreed to replace ALL of the parts I lost. Just my .002 cents?