thanks… 
I kept picturing yours, thanks for the support and inspiration :+1:
this pebble Tir is 30 degree, it is as floody as my FWAA… Im considering trying the 20 degree, in a future life… lol
such a sweet little host
.
Hi gchart,
I have a FT03 w/ SFT-40 arriving Monday and would prefer it with Andúril-2. Assuming the driver is identical to the MT35 Mini, is there a specific reflashing tool/kit required for that driver? If yes, where is it available to purchase? Thank you!
It should be identical, yes. You need the USBASP 2.0 that you use for most any other light. The issue is the non-standard programming pin arrangement that Mateminco/Astrolux used. I made a pogo pin adapter much like Zozz did in these posts. You need a special Anduril build as the FT03 hasn’t been in the normal code base. I just posted a pre-built hex file here and pushed the necessary changes to my branch of the Firmware Repository.
How does the beam look like with the 219b LED and stock TIR? I've been contemplating on modding my S11 with a 219b but I kinda like the beam profile/throw of the stock SST20. I can't decide whether to put in a high-CRI SST20 or a 219b.
Thank you very much for your help!
Swapped the led of a Acebeam E10 with a sliced SW45 R9080 Nichia 519A.
The bezel was not easy to open but it was not glued. I had to cut and sand a piece of steel to size to get it moving.
The pads were 3030 size (because of the KW CSLNM1-TG) but the 3535-size 519A was easy to reflow on it. I sliced the dome gradually off using a razorblade with a sequence of washers of decreasing thickness around the led as guidance for the blade.
Then the board went in again, once the bezel was open everything eas pretty straightforward.
The E10 with this much larger led die is still very throwy, but with a bit larger spotsize and the edge of the spot goes more gradually into the spill compared to the 1mm2 White Flat that was in light before.
And the tint is completely different now, as measured in the hotspot.
On lowest mode:
CCT=3530
Duv=–0.040
CRI=96.8
R9=89
On highest mode:
CCT=3700
Duv=–0.0059
CRI=96.0
R9=93
So great CRI, 3 percentpoints better than before slicing, and wonderfully rosy.
The output at max is now 560 lumen (with slightly depleted battery), of which most is in that hotspot.
Beautiful! 
Great idea for the Bezel removal tool — making one today for a Rofis I was having trouble with —— 
Way to go :+1: Love the results, I wanted to make the tight spot slightly larger as well.
I tried heating and my best efforts with the usual non-slip pads but couldn’t get mine to budge. Knowing it’s not glued gives me the confidence to try again.
djozz, that’s a pretty clever solution to the bezel divots! I think I may have to make up a couple like that. I’ve toyed with the idea of making some flat plate tools with short pins and brazing a nut or something to the top, but I like this approach.
Non-slip pads did not work for me, that is why I went for the custom tool, and indeed it needed an amount of force that I could never have applied with the pads.
The beam is slightly floodier but still has a hot spot.
That’s a really cool mod, Djozz.
Do you think slicing the clear phosphor around the led die at the base would improve anything? In the same way that DBcustom, Zozzv6 and others did it to sliced XHP’s and other similar cree led’s? Any benefit to doing that when nichia slicing or no? Thanks
It would help somewhat indeed, but the closer you shave it to the phosfor the less difference it makes (light can enter the side more difficult then).
Hallo modders.Question-i would like to get the smallest flashlights for one 21700 or 18650 usb but with old dead MTG-2 led.Of course,with maximum output…Do you have any idea for host? Thanks:)
Easy answer- S2+ and S21A with boost driver. But heat would be an issue with more than 15 seconds on turbo.
Danke schon:)
Every now and then a non flashlight related post finds it’s way into this thread… Here is another.
I got a Mavic 2 pro as my first drone last year but it’s a bit of a hassle getting out to fly it as I live in an apartment. It’s also a little too expensive to learn how to fly a drone with, already crashed it once into a tree, so I tried simulator software but my old laptop couldn’t handle the graphics. Instead of upgrading the laptop I went and got myself one of those real cheapo mini drones just to learn how to control a drone from my couch. Man have I crashed it! Durable little sucker, props and prop guards flying everywhere, just stick ’em back on and it’s ready for more abuse. However, running around after it in my apartment is annoying. I have goggles for my Mavic 2 so I want to fly with goggles indoor too. What to do? I want to stick a little camera on it but these little suckers fly really bad when weight is added, I already tried a larger battery.
It weights in at at 52.5 grams with the battery.
I bought a cheap little camera, I also bought some compatible cheapo goggles that has detachable screen.
So I had to shed about 4 grams of this thing… I hacked it up pretty good, removing useless joke camera and wifi transmitter it came with, a LED and a whole bunch of the plastic frame:
I soldered on cables with connections to the battery poles on the main board and taped down the camera and tx board. Antenna is sticking out in the front, might move it later as it’s in frame but it’ll do for now. And whatta ya know, it ended up 0.3 of a gram lighter:
So it’s ready to go and get all bashed up again! I just hope the camera holds up, I don’t care much about the drone itself, it’s has long since passed what I expected of it and I have a few more lined up to take it’s place. The camera I can move to the next drone in line when this one has had enough. I did get a spare camera too, just in case.
Test flight tomorrow, can’t do it now as my girlfriend as asleep.
Sounds like you are having fun! Nice hack.
Nice mod…Please,which driver was used? And-is it for two 18350 or one 18650?