1) As you said, it started working after leaving a AAA Duraloop in it. Before that there was no light. But I thought this was 3 modes? So far, it looks like only 2 modes?
2) I did not get a keychain and also no O-rings in the box. Just the light and the clip (in a bag), all inside the box.
Please advise.
EDIT: Actually, there may be 3 modes, but the medium and high are almost the same brightness?
EDIT 2: I asked earlier: Is there parasitic drain because the switch? But it doesn’t do lockout because it’s not anodized?
The keychain and O-rings in mine were under the flashlight, under the cardboard/paddding thing.
Just tried measuring parasitic drain and saw nothing, as I thought I would. I jumpered the batt- to the tail spring, then put the DMM probes on the body tube and tailswitch ground, to close the circuit. If the MCU was running, I’d think it would show up. I’ve been measuring parasitic drain, and tailcap LED amps this way and it’s been working well.
I still can’t get off the tailcap retainer ring - came close to damaging my SS tweezers. Holes are just slightly too small for smallest tip needlenose. I’d have to drill out the holes to have a chance.
Wasn’t MattAus working on a switch like that a while back? Does anyone else have this? I don’t recall seeing one before but the way my memory works that means not much at all. I know I don’t have one already, so it’s pretty cool looking to me. I have a Cu Tool and a Ti Tool en-route.
Ok, thanks for checking and for info about the keychain and O-rings! Maybe that (the no parasitic) is why it needs a double-click, i.e., maybe the 1st click activates it, then the 2nd one is what works?
Well got a USPS update that my lights are in Chicago, can’t wait.
However, I bought Reys first of all because it’s Rey’s GB and it’s a good price, but being I had already had bought one and knowing I have more on the way, I decided to see if I could get that light and that stupid switch apart.
Honestly if there’s one part of that light I can not stand it’s that switch, just junk, patented or not, it doesn’t work good at all IMHO.
So keeping my mouth shut for a change I started work on the light I had and right after I got my order in with Rey for a couple more and last night about midnight I finally had complete success with the switch tear down and though the head was easily disassembled almost immediately back when this GB started and it was heavily glued, the tail switch was a bear and I have been trying to figure out how to disassemble that thing and not destroy it.
It was very very difficult but I got it and I took a bunch of pics if anyone has any interest in what that battery in the switch and the rest of the junk looks like.
By the way, in an email Rey told me that he was going to try and see if the company would do Rey a favor and NOT glue this light, much like Rey did with the last Cu Tool GB,
I sure hope Rey had success because it is not even fun at all trying to take that switch apart with the glue Lumintop uses, it’s some good glue I’ll say that much…
Hardest part really is figuring out what kind of tool can I make that will get down in their to that retainer ring, well finally figured that out but that took the longest…
But don’t ever tell me you have a patented switch and then glue it together so maybe I won’t be able to take a look and see what so special, Ha Ha :smiling_imp: … BLFer’s Strike again…
I’m looking at these other Tools I have and the switches are pretty good, but I’m wondering if anyone recalls, wasn’t the switch in the Cu something special that Rey came up with or maybe I’m thinking driver, with low low nice spacing?
I love that switch but still someday want to do something about that rubber boot, and Reys Custom Cu Tool it’s still sitting here getting it’s patina and working great.
Edit: Well darn, I was so happy with my success I didn’t look UP the post and see that either someone has beat me to the bunch as usual or maybe Rey was successful in getting these lights unglued
I will go now and read what is the scoop up up the posts, DARN IT… argh and I was so happy with myself, just had to come over and tell everyone about my success… bummer ha ha ha
Say Tom, hey maybe my success at disassembly is still in play, I will post you some pics later of what I did to get that apart, I bent hardened steel trying to get that retainer, even after I took a hand drill and sized the holes a little larger, I’ll have to show you the bits I used and a pair of weird style vise grips and mini bench vise, and mine was seriously glued in. So Rey didn’t talk Lumintop into not gluing these I’m starting to think?
Have to go pray for forgiveness so will post pictures later if wanted, if not needed let me know and won’t bother, probably have it figured out before I get back anyhow…
Friend called and said she’s sick, so uploading switch pics,
Hey, Please tell me if posting pics like this one at a time, if it’s screwing anything up, I am notorious for that, if I should start a new post and just wait until I have all pics uploaded to host site, please let me know, Thanks
Sounds like there are variations of the glue - some tighter, some looser. Sometimes they don’t glue them all, just ones they think are loose. If you got detailed pics of the switch board, that would help. With this smart switch, think’n might not be good to do a FET DD driver upgrade - dunno if it can handle high amps. But really for such a small Ti light, might not be a good idea anyways.
I posted two Tom, Please let me know pal if I am screwing something up by editing my post with pics, I hate it when I think I’m doing something right only to find out I’m screwing up the thread, learned the tough love way at RMM thread, fellas let me know I was pulling basically idiot move by deleting my posts, opp, always with smiley faces though, still got the message, I was so darn proud of myself getting that switch apart after a month of trying, it was like you’d have thought I was a happy father with a new born and all the pics, ha ha ha.
No prob if it’s a very recent post, like within 2-3 of last. Thanks for the pics!
A battery? Wow, this ain’t good. A battery combined with a difficult means to access it is not a good combo.
The switch being offset from center explains the action I’ve seen - not bad though, considering how off center it really is.
Have mess here trying to get these pics, multiple accounts and gmail, but yes, I had nothing but issues with that switch and was hell bent at either getting it apart in order to change something with that switch or destroy it.
I always had to use my finger nail just to get the switch to click, and changing modes was, click on for ON, then mode changes were just click of click on, and I didn’t know if it was supposed to be just that stupid of a switch or if something was wrong with it, but anyhow, there are a lot of pieces to this switch which I will get out to you as quick as I can, there’s the retainer, then O ring, board, then aluminum sort of ring the board sits in to, then a rubber pad that goes between switch button and offset stupid switch box like your seeing, it’s a mess of a switch that’s for sure. And thanks for letting me know what’s what… Try to do things right…
Say I am wondering, I started to post a lot of pictures of the tear down of this switch and I then realized that basically I was doing something like a tear down review, I guess you might call it that and it was getting rather large so I decided I’d better stop and think about this and get some advise, like maybe start a separate thread and post all those pics and the tool I came up with and how to heat that glue a bit to make it easier to get that retainer out.
This is Rey’s GB thread and I’m not sure how he’d feel about me posting a huge amount of pictures on the tear down,
Also is anyone really all that interested??
Maybe some feed back would be best before I dump a bunch of pics into Rey’s thread…??
Hi Ohaya, thank you for the interest and I do agree with you about separate thread and darn glad I thought a little more before dumping all the pics I have on Rey’s thread,
I am new to the forum world and don’t know all the does, don’t, etc. but working on it, have learned here if in doubt, DON’T do it ha ha ha,
Got a little scolding by some old timers that I have high respect for, so learned a lesson.
Re: IC, I am also a newbie to electronics so looking at the pics I have posted here and taking out the two obvious components ie: the switch box and battery, there’s one that has the “VK” on it I believe, what do I look for that would be this “IC”…?
I mistakenly took all my pics in high resolution and even where I have stored the pictures at Imgur I’m having trouble viewing them there, so what is already here is about the best right now,
I’m thinking I could retake a view shots since mines completely disassembled but this time bring the resolution down some so the pics aren’t so big, New at that also… I’m learning… The hard way I think…
That’s the IC I was referring to. Whenever you get your new thread going, can you post a pic of that IC “straight on” from the top, so we can see the markings on the top surface of the chip?
After you upload your pics to whatever site to store them, when you add the links to the pics on your post here (at BLF) you can specify the height and width of the pics the way you want them to appear.
OK, Yes I saw over at Imgur site that you can resize and I’ve noticed even here that when I come to this page and login that down at the bottom of my screen it’s saying something like “transferring data from Imgur.com”…
I know one thing it’s a real darn good thing I didn’t try to post that entire batch, probably would have crashed the entire internet, well forum anyhow… Ha, close call … My name would be something that I won’t mention.
All future pics will be proper sized Ohaya and I will get a pic of that IC and get it as close as possible for you all, just will take a little bit, Thank You for all the info…
Well this is probably the best I can do for you, got the size down right now, but still I am only using a pocket camera and a flashlight to light it up a bit better, so this will have to do, best of three…
Is it just me or is that little cell welded in place? The 3 spot welds? So if it is, you can’t replace the cell even if you can get inside the light. They think it’s a throwaway or something?
Edit: There must be something about that set-up I’m not seeing. Looks like the aluminum ring around the outside is up against the side of the cell, which would be positive, then the brass retaining ring is against the aluminum ring, which would ground that cell out? Missing something, certainly…
Yeah, well, duh, the rubber clicky button goes over the top of the switch so the brass retaining ring is up against the other side. I’m then assuming the sides of that aluminum ring can’t touch the tail cap section and make a short to the little cell, is it in a sleeve? or just minimally clearing the edges of the board so it won’t touch?
Guess I’ll know soon as one of the 2 I have coming won’t be long getting here now.
Didn’t get a chance to work on it more. Think my retaining ring is glued, like the lower threads on the pill were - I applied a lot of pressure with a good pair of SS tweezers, and nothing. Still think’n it’s a power-assisted power cut-off switch, i.e. smart switch. Wonder if Lumintop could provide more info? What is their expected life-time of this design, for example? If it’s 10+ years on the cell, they could be think’n that exceeds the usage life-time.
