I recorded a run on a Q8 in an earlier post, confirming the step down. After 1 manual cranking back up to turbo and a 2nd stepdown at 6 mins, the temp dropped a little slowly, then started creeping up but very slowly. So starting with fresh cells, it will have trouble but who knows - might have hit an equilibrium soon. After 16 mins after the stepdown, did about 14,500 lumens and was about 53C outside, but throughout the body was quite warm feeling.
There should then be a horizontal clearance of 0.53 mm to the screws/BT pole, plus the extra vertical clearance of 1.588 mm. Using Pythagoras total clearance should then be 1.67 mm, in additional the button top itself narrows a bit. I think it should work well.
The symptoms of mine have changed a bit. The first day the indicator just stopped working and stayed that way. Since then I’ve just been letting the flashlight sit on my desk, off. So it’s not get jostled around and the temperature is fairly steady.
Once in a while, the indicator light does go on and stay on for a few minutes. Sometimes it flickers, sometimes not. Eventually it goes off. I don’t see any obvious pattern to the behavior. Seems like the electrical connection is flaky, but it’s not clear what triggers it to fluctuate since it’s just sitting on my desk.
sort of similar to mine. Mine does not work in any application that it is supposed to. Like you, I just left mine on my desk while I was working on the computer. Once in several hours, I saw the green light blip! Haven’t seen green for a long time since……
Mine showed up. So far everything’s ok. Need a magnifying glass to read the manual.
Great balance and feel. Button seems strong and no flickering. This thing is so awesome for the price. So worth the wait!
This pic makes me particularly happy. It means I’ll probably be able to access the MCU without physically modding the light at all — unless removing two screws counts as a “mod”. 
This is good, because I need a light with an indicator LED for development purposes.
Now, if I could get past “back ordered”…
If you are gonna be doing modding, and having those screws undone a bunch, I'd consider replacing the stock ones. I found a pretty good replacement laying around, ordered at Banggood a while back: https://www.banggood.com/340pcs-M3-A2-Stainless-Steel-Hex-Socket-Screws-Nut-Assortment-Kit
The shortest ones (5 mm length) fit the driver fine. I also drilled out the PCB holes a little bit so you don't have to struggle threading the screws through the PCB. Only problem is they stick up slightly from the brass contact ring, so may have to consider that, but so far with the 30Q BT's from BG, they look fine. Think the brass ring is 1.6 mm, and these button caps are about 1.7 mm
Got my first of 2 lights.
Unscrewed the tailcap and, what? Nothing inside it.
Red PCB board stayed in the battery tube.
Ok, no problem, I can load batteries from the other end.
Should the contact board be press fit or sticky-taped in the tailcap, though?
It lights up. It ramps up and down. It remembers its brightness setting.
Intuitive.
Green LEDs under the switch work — one is bright, one is dim.
Camera belt attachment with tripod screw works fine —
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Camera-Waist-Belt-Mount-Button-Buckle-Hanger-Clip-Tripod-With-1-4-Screw-Mount-For-DSLR/2002995705.html
the threaded part is a bit too long, I’ll want to add a fat washer to it so I don’t overtorque it and punch through.
The litthe chess-pawn-shaped piece with the tripod thread on one end and steel ball on the other stays on the flashlight when it’s unclipped from the belt hanger.
That is handy, fits between index and middle finger and puts thumb right on the flashlight power button.
hank , the red tailcap pcb should be screwed on the battery tube , and not on the tailcap , as it is on your light now .
So , you unscrew the whole tube to load batteries as you did :+1:
I like that camera belt attachment idea. Thanks for sharing the link.
The only thing which goes in the tailcap is, optionally, a folded-up UI cheatsheet. There’s one floating around with all the major points covered, capable of fitting in the tailcap if printed on reasonably thin paper.
Batteries go in the front end of the tube.
> tailcap
Thank you.
> camera belt attachment
Do shop around for things that attach with tripod screws, there’s a wide variety out there. I doubt I found the best one.
Just an fyi… if you don’t mind a blue-white tint, want mo powah, and a simple mod, change out the LED’s to SST-40’s. I swapped XM-L2 U2’s out of my SupBeam M6 and gained some 3000 lumens. Seriously. My M6 has an FET in it, I re-flashed the MCU to have TK’s ramping firmware and swapped in 3 of the SST-40’s, up from 5000 lumens to 8866.
I ordered my Samsung 30Qs, on the 2nd, just got them today the 18th. Yes I got the semi-flat/raised semi-button whatever tops also. I was wondering when they would come, thinking that they were coming from China, but instead mine were sent from City of Industry, California…huh?
Same as these:
https://i.imgur.com/8v9K3c7.jpg
Came at 3.0v charging now on XTAR VC2 watching the milliamps march in.
Question: I just noticed a behavior regarding illuminated button switch, can’t seem to find anything about it in ui.
Button (& LEDS) flashes 2x when batteries installed - check
Click on to start ramp, button flashes once, and goes out - check
Every button click in short ramping intervals, button flashes once, and goes out. - check
At some midway point of ramping, button “flashes twice” & goes out, instead of once. Same all the way to turbo.
Repeats the same way when decrease ramping brightness.
I’m sure that 1x or 2x flashing is signaling something.
What’s it telling me? 7135 vs Fet?
Yes, exactly! It was bugging me not knowing what channel I was on. If you miss the blink count and want to know what your on, no problem - just click OFF, and the click back ON will restore to the same level and blink accordingly 
. I was hoping might be a few techies out there that would appreciate it.
Does the same for 3 channel drivers as well - 1, 2 or 3 blinks.
Ok, thanks Tom. Wasn’t really watching the switch flashes before now. Does that happen at a specific % of brightness?
Wow, I assume it's still a 3 LED M6, so 2,955 lumens per LED? Wow!! Are you sure that's correct?
The SST-40's though are XM footprint, so a custom quad XM MCPCB or 4 single 16 mm's would have to be worked out.
I know I, maybe others, measured it at some point, but should be ~150-180 lumens max on the 7135, 0.35 amps distributed to all LED's, so only 0.0874A per LED.
Tom, my box read 21500 for 7417.5 lumens, I pulled the 4 LG HE4 cells to charge and double check and one of them is dead, won’t charge in any charger I have. So I found another LG HE4 and loaded all 4 in the M6 and box reads 25,700 for 8866.5 lumens.