Does your strobe mode act weird? My triple stops the strobe mode on its own after a few blinks. It goes into moonlight or it shuts off completely. Only happens with a high drain cell such as a 30Q.
Its my second build using the BLF a6. The interface is definitely picky. Alot of random forward and reverse changes. Takes a really light tough to be consistent
Mines are here (well 3 out of 10)
Does it behave normally with a non high current battery? It does on mine. It seems that the high amps (15+) used by the 219c’s mess with the driver. It also happens with a driver I swapped in from a Kronos X6. Turbo did not work with a 30Q. It just flashed for a second, then went to moonlight. But worked fine on an NCR18650B. Oh well. :cry:
Hhmm, these all sound very familiar, like the problems I had in developing with the Tiny25 and Tiny 85's. All my problems like that were fixed with adding caps, either stacking a 2nd 10 uF cap to the C1 cap, or wiring a 0.1 uF cap across the MCU, from pin #4 (grnd) to pin #8 (Vcc). Can't say it would work on a 13A based BLF A6 driver, but if I were you, it would be the first thing I'd try. Another fix was adding a gate resistor on the FET gate pin. I use a 12K (FET gate pin to grnd), but I really thought that was only for problems I had with the SIR800DP FET, but for what I know now, it's the only FET I'd use for high amps, ~8A or higher.
If you put the MTN-17DDm NUV in there you'll see the problems go away. Better layout, better parts.
I’m so confused… Where are you getting these driver names from? What is NUV? Where is NUV listed?
I feel like I've had a missing time experience 
New Updated Version
Ahh, ok, missed that. Different design, 13A is shown in the pics but must be a 25. Guess not available in kit form yet? But good chance I missed it, if it's there .
I build it with both 13A and 25 depending on the firmware (some of the pics show the 25). I will get the PCBs and kits listed up next week.
Was wondering what you did there, as opposed to porting those 13A drivers to the 25.
And as an added bonus - lower resistance/higher current to the leds. I had to double check with the fluke clamp meter at work because I couldn’t believe what I was seeing.
17.2A at startup and 16.8 just before the turbo timer kicked in at 30 seconds! New D320 Nichia triple in an S2+ with the new MTN-17DD and an LG HE2.
Thank you Richard. 
SiR404DP is slightly better. Not enough better to make you not use any 800s you already have, but enough better that if you have to buy some, get the 404s.
Is there any more info around on the SIR404DP? A BLF search turned up only one hit by Dale here: https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/38802/14
Could have sworn there was more discussions on it somewhere, dunno where. Looked at the spec sheet, and definitely the PowerPAK SO-8 is what we want (handles heat much better), not the SO-8 package. Mouser has the SO-8, DigiKey has the PowerPAK SO-8. Little more than the SIR800DP but looks like better specs.
RMM,
Thanks for putting this Nichia sale on for us.
I somehow accidentally doubled my order at checkout… pretty happy about that 
There is only one package for these, if it's a SiR404DP it's the right one (different package has a different number). Mouser is using a generic stock photo.
Hm, overestimating my time, I bought three of the original 17DDs (A6, 180 second turbo timer) and they’re still in the box.
Sounds like the NUV has fewer ifs-ands-buts — what’s the best uncomplicated use of the first version, can you recommend a simple use for them?
They’ll go into gifts or a giveaway.
Mouse has it actually listed as the Package/Case: SO-8, where DigiKey lists it as Package/Case: PowerPAK SO-8, but I think Mouser is wrong and you are right, because the manu part # matches exactly.
So, is there any more info on the SIR404DP posted here? I don't trust the BLF search function.
PowerPAK is just a trade name, like NXP's LFPAK. They are all SO-8 (which is short for SOIC-8). 'Power SO-8'/PowerPAK/LFPAK is a modification to the 8-leg SOIC-8 with a single big thermal pad in place of the four legs on one side.
404DP is one I identified way back when the first boards were being designed, no one ever tested it and ended up using the others instead, PSMN3R0-30YLD & SiR800DP. Turns out the 404 is slightly better.
Tom i would recomment this one , i`ve found it lately and its the best i could get my hands on localy