You know you want to get all available color options for the FW3A so you lego the parts with a purple bezel, copper head, blue body tube and titanium tailcap!
Well, I thought the beam shot photos Taschenlampen made for the Zebralights I ended up getting to be fairly representative. I’ve got the 3D emitter bin in my FW3A and the beam photo doesn’t look unjust to me. Naturally there are some deviations to keep in mind like screen calibration and subject matter. Do you have a different beam shot example of the 7A?
I think he’s saying that a 3000K tint beamshot, using a 5000K color-balance on the camera, isn’t a fair representation of what your eyes see.
When I use the 7A FW3A in a dark room, it looks white. Perhaps a little warmish, but certainly not orange like it does in the photo.
If I use it in the daytime, sure, it looks orange. But that’s because my eyes are expecting somewhere around a 6000K color. But again, it doesn’t look that way at night when it’s the only light source. Our eyes adapt. Photos don’t.
Has anyone done some rough runtime tests for lowest moonlight mode?
What are people thinking it would get? Days, weeks, Zebralight runtimes?
EDIT: I also wanted to add that I posted a while back because I received one with a mis-soldered head spring.
Kudos to Neal and co. for taking care of me. I received a new head that works great!
I’m trying to my head around the SST-20 option. Is the only advantage color rendition, but at the expense of green tint at low levels? I know it will run hotter, not be as bright, and it probably won’t throw farther because it’s not as bright (all vs Cree).