If the xpl hi has to concentrated of a beam. Then get the convoy c8 with a xml2 in it. Another option is the eagle eye x6. It has the xpl hi but with slightly smaller reflector it isn’t as tight of a beam and opens up more then with a c8. Gearbest has both c8 and eagle eye x6 for under $20usd usually
I personally prefer the 10% - 30% - 100% of the Nanjg105 in 3 mode config or a decent CC FET driver like LD25 or something, but i guess you’ll have to bake them in yourself…
…but i like simple UI drivers…
Simon does have the LD25 though, maybe he can put one in a C8.
+1
I prefer Thorfire C8s because is the smaller 
What about a Jaxman M8?
Smaller then a convoy C8, but the same design
Wath battery do you advise if I buy a new flashlight ?
18650 or 26650 ?
Depends on the power consumption, but either way, the best batteries are 18650s and the new 20700s.
18650 is the most used battery and made by reputable brands like Sanyo, Sony, Samsung, LG, Panasonic etcetera.
There are high drain cells for high current applications but for a C8 that runs around 3 Amperes maximum you don’t need those.
26650s are much larger but they’re not developed as far as the better 18650s or 20700s.
They do have higher capacity though, simply because of the size.
Liitokala 26650s are one of the best.
For a C8 i would recommend these: http://www.gearbest.com/batteries/pp_399868.html
It’s Sanyo 3500mAh 10 Amperes max. discharge current.
Another safe bet are the Panasonic 3400mAh, they can be bought a little cheaper but perform a little less.
Since you’re in Belgium you might want to have a look around at NKON.nl.
Thank you Jerommel.
I already ordered at NKON (Eneloop batteries). Good store but shipping is expensive to Belgium.
Gearbest is free 
blf a6 awesome light
What do you think about this ?
There are a lot of fans of direct drive FET drivers around here, but i’m not one of them.
Yes, they give you very high output, but only when the battery is fully charged.
I personally prefer less maximum output (higher efficiency of the LED) and constant current regulation (same brightness until the battery runs low).
Great light, and its a BLF light
Ok, Simon just respond me :
“you can choose U2-1A mode option 2”
What do you think between U2 and C8 ?
U2-1A is cool blue, (6500K) which is in my opinion, too blueish, i would prefer around 5000K which is more neutral white. anything below 5000K is general called warm white
U2 is the brightness bin, 1A is the tint bin.
I wouldn’t call 1A blue, it’s just very cool white, which consequently has a lot of blue in it.
I prefer the 3A tint.
Nice and neutral white.
For warmer tints i ‘need’ high CRI LEDs because otherwise i really miss the red reproduction.
Low CRI warm white LEDs makes your skin look green
I think you can choose 5 different color of light :
https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/Convoy-s2-18650-edc-small-hard-oxygen-t6-u2-strong-light-flashlight/330416_826041411.htm
But my question is :
What is the most powerful. C8 or U2 ?
Edit : writing in same time of Jerommel post
Wait, i think you’re mixing up things.
C8 is a model flashlight model, like S2+.
U2 is a brightness bin of Cree XM-L2 LEDs.
The brightness of the C8 and / or the S2+ is determined mainly by the driver.
A driver with 8x AMC7135 current regulators will provide 2.8 Amperes of current, which gives you around 10 Watts of LED power which produces around 900 Lumen.
Low brightness bin LED produces less Lumen, high brightness bin LED produces more, but the differences are usually not that big.
Thank you Jerommel.
You’re right, I’m mixing all and I understand now.
The only difference between S2+ and C8 is the diameter of the lense, right ?
- If I want spot light (center bright +), I must buy C8
- If I want not spot (bigger spot but bright -), I must buy S2+
I’ll buy very bright light (not for long time using).
In this case, I understand you advise I order 7135x8, right ?
For light color (blue cool to yellow hot), I prefer cool white… but not blue
Is the U2-1A 6500-7000K very blue ?
The T6-3B 5000-5200K is better ?
Sorry for all questions and thanks a lot for your patience
S2+ is for close distances , C8 for bigger distances .
Thank you.
Sorry to insist but, is there a model with zoom ?
Yeah, the reflector (and lens).
Big reflector gives you throw (tight beam)
Well, 8x 7135 provides the rated maximum current for an XM-L2, but for an S2+ you might want to choose 6x 7135 so it gets a little less hot.
But it’s nice to have maximum rated power, just to please your mind. 
It has most of the light towards the blue of the spectrum, whereas the warm “yellow” tint has most of the light towards the yellow part of the spectrum.
It certainly has benefits over cool white.
Usually the Lumen output is a little less (cool white usually have higher brightness bins, in this case T6 for the 3B and U2 for the 1A) but humans can see things better with less blue in it.
Cool white light is a little blinding sometimes. The blue light scatters inside our eyes, more than yellow does.
With a cool white light you see the beam and the hot spot very well, with warmer tints you see what you shine the light on better.
So if you want a ‘light saber’ you want cool white.
I have a Convoy C8 with XP-L HI (the version without dome) U6 brightness bin and 3A tint bin which i really like.
Without dome you will have a tighter hot spot, making it a nice little thrower.
The tint is much more pleasant than 1A, and it’s more to the red tint side than 3B or 3C
Basically i prefer the A and D tints (1A, 1D, 3A, 3D etc…) because Cree LEDs tend to be a bit to the green (puke) side (especially the B and C tints).