Great light, and its a BLF light
Ok, Simon just respond me :
“you can choose U2-1A mode option 2”
What do you think between U2 and C8 ?
U2-1A is cool blue, (6500K) which is in my opinion, too blueish, i would prefer around 5000K which is more neutral white. anything below 5000K is general called warm white
U2 is the brightness bin, 1A is the tint bin.
I wouldn’t call 1A blue, it’s just very cool white, which consequently has a lot of blue in it.
I prefer the 3A tint.
Nice and neutral white.
For warmer tints i ‘need’ high CRI LEDs because otherwise i really miss the red reproduction.
Low CRI warm white LEDs makes your skin look green 
I think you can choose 5 different color of light :
https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/Convoy-s2-18650-edc-small-hard-oxygen-t6-u2-strong-light-flashlight/330416_826041411.htm
But my question is :
What is the most powerful. C8 or U2 ?
Edit : writing in same time of Jerommel post
Wait, i think you’re mixing up things.
C8 is a model flashlight model, like S2+.
U2 is a brightness bin of Cree XM-L2 LEDs.
The brightness of the C8 and / or the S2+ is determined mainly by the driver.
A driver with 8x AMC7135 current regulators will provide 2.8 Amperes of current, which gives you around 10 Watts of LED power which produces around 900 Lumen.
Low brightness bin LED produces less Lumen, high brightness bin LED produces more, but the differences are usually not that big.
Thank you Jerommel.
You’re right, I’m mixing all and I understand now.
The only difference between S2+ and C8 is the diameter of the lense, right ?
- If I want spot light (center bright +), I must buy C8
- If I want not spot (bigger spot but bright -), I must buy S2+
I’ll buy very bright light (not for long time using).
In this case, I understand you advise I order 7135x8, right ?
For light color (blue cool to yellow hot), I prefer cool white… but not blue 
Is the U2-1A 6500-7000K very blue ?
The T6-3B 5000-5200K is better ?
Sorry for all questions and thanks a lot for your patience
S2+ is for close distances , C8 for bigger distances .
Thank you.
Sorry to insist but, is there a model with zoom ?
Yeah, the reflector (and lens).
Big reflector gives you throw (tight beam)
Well, 8x 7135 provides the rated maximum current for an XM-L2, but for an S2+ you might want to choose 6x 7135 so it gets a little less hot.
But it’s nice to have maximum rated power, just to please your mind. 
It has most of the light towards the blue of the spectrum, whereas the warm “yellow” tint has most of the light towards the yellow part of the spectrum.
It certainly has benefits over cool white.
Usually the Lumen output is a little less (cool white usually have higher brightness bins, in this case T6 for the 3B and U2 for the 1A) but humans can see things better with less blue in it.
Cool white light is a little blinding sometimes. The blue light scatters inside our eyes, more than yellow does.
With a cool white light you see the beam and the hot spot very well, with warmer tints you see what you shine the light on better.
So if you want a ‘light saber’ you want cool white.
I have a Convoy C8 with XP-L HI (the version without dome) U6 brightness bin and 3A tint bin which i really like.
Without dome you will have a tighter hot spot, making it a nice little thrower.
The tint is much more pleasant than 1A, and it’s more to the red tint side than 3B or 3C
Basically i prefer the A and D tints (1A, 1D, 3A, 3D etc…) because Cree LEDs tend to be a bit to the green (puke) side (especially the B and C tints).
Convoy has a zoomie, but it’s not really popular. (not sure why)
A very nice zoomie is the Brynite B158.
It will out throw a reflector light, but has no spill and no corona around the hot spot.
You basically project the LED ‘die’ (the chip with the phosphor) on to what you point it at.
In real life a reflector light is much more practical (i.m.o.).
Thank you very much for all Jerommel
I just ordered this :
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Convoy-c8-strong-light-flashlight-cree-xml-u2-t6-torchy/826040641.html
with U2 - 1A and 7135x8 mode option 3
I hope Simon send it quickly !
Hi,
I’ already have many 18650 batteries but they are old now.
Thank you for you link NCR batteries but I don’t need 8 pcs.
What do you propose for batteries, max 2x or 4x pcs ?
Sanyo ? Panasonic ? NCR ?
And where to buy it (other NKON but Asia OK) ?
Thank you
Yeah, strangely enough the 2 pcs deal is always sold out…
Samsung INR18650-30Q 3000mAh 20 Amperes (i think):
http://www.gearbest.com/batteries/pp_232874.html?lkid=10600986
Use that link and this coupon code: Q302
Found them in this topic: GearBEST's Sale . Rovyvon A5 $15.99 . Convoy S21 $15.99
You can find 4x LG HG2 there too, which is a similar cell.
Or browse Gearbest and Banggood for the good old 3400mAh Panasonics.
4x Samsung 30Q:
Thanks again Jerommel
Why 18650 exist on 3.7v or 4.2v ?
Is 4.2v better or more power => http://www.gearbest.com/batteries/pp_399868.html) ?
In this thread (RIP my FandyFire C8 : other best alternative ? - #16 by Jerommel), you propose 3500mah batteries.
But you think the Samsung 30Q 3000mah are best ?
Thank you and goo day
The average Voltage is 3.7 Volts.
But it’s a range from 4.2 Volts fully charged to 3.0 Volts fully discharged.
Those 3000mAh cells are suitable for high currents.
For your light that Sanyo 3500mAh would be best.
The good old Panasonic 3400mAh can be the best deal sometimes when you find a nice offer.
You will need a decent charger too, by the way, or do you have one already?
Yes, I have an old Nitecore i4 charger.
… is it always good charger ?
I just now find Sanyo 3500mAh for 2pcs.
Thank you Jerommel
I just found it !!!
Thank you my son: D
In a few days, I’ll can compare my new Convoy C8 and my old Fandyfire XML-T6;)