never mind, too busy to follow closely, but lexel's points have all sounded fine, just read your last post g_damien, and deleted my other details, as they aren't needed now. It seems like you've got it about tracked down. Glad it's working out.
"there are just fast and medium presses in Bistro, if it advances to lowest mode it counts as shutting the light off for a while"
Yes, but this often gets loosely referred to as a long press as it sometimes gets used like one, precisely to return to the lowest mode. In fact in HD a long press triggers from either a full power off or from exceeding the time threshold, even before full power shutdown occurs, so it's configurable up to the hardware limit. It was also configurable in OTC for that matter too but it was programmatically identical to a full power off in that case. It's not in HD.
The bleeder isn't needed if you use R1 and R2 totaling about 1kOhm (811 Ohm would be exactly equivalent actually). Yes all the current will flow through R2, but I x R2 is compensated by lower R2 so voltage drop is the same, and total effective resistance and total current are also the same. So long as Reff is the same and Rled is the same, voltage drop on R2 is the same. But it doesn't matter. Either way works.
The problem with missing ground rings should be fixed for my drivers, as first I have the knowledge that the fab with super swift service does not has this issue.
And the cause was Texas_Ace´s too big solder mask clearance caused this issue on the slow fab, as it collided with the boards around and got deleted automatically.
New design of TA boards I have made fix this issue on all sizes.
left new designed ground ring does not exceed the board outline anymore
Two quick questions, may already been answered, but I am working and havent had enough time to look through all 12 pages thoroughly yet. I will do so when I get home.
1) I see this driver can do lighted switch and battery voltage indicator blink (w/o calibration). Can it do both on the same light ? (preferably w/bat. indicator led only when light is on)
If so, I am thinking this could be done either….
….A) by having only one led in the switch for each function, one say red and the other blue ?
…….B) machining a spot for the voltage indicator LED in the body or head somewhere
2) 30mm still available as follows ? unsure of wire length for main LED as I do not have the host in hand yet
……. 1) 30mm , 2s , NarsilM , LDO , No Calibration , PO=NO , lighted side switch , Convoy L6 , with LED wires ( ? possible separate bat. voltage indicator light ?)
The driver can be configured in user settings not to use the main LED for battery, Temp and LVP blinks
The only thing on 2S light is that the pin 7 of the MCU either has LVP detection input or indicator output
If you got the indicator output is still possible to use another LED color in side switch to show if the driver gets Battery voltage simply connecting this LED with a resistor to the drivers supply voltage
Yeah, that’s right. On 2S models, you have to choose between indicator light or LVP. I always choose LVP because that is more important.
Both my Narsil lights are 2S so I have no indicator function. It’s no big deal, though. I still have a lighted side switch that tells me if power is connected or shut off. That’s all I need.
2S are also the only ones I see as potentially truly calibration free, assuming the LDO has good specs. invered, or "Internal" read, divider-less 1S still uses the 1.1V internal reference (so does the normal method not referred to as "internal"), but on 2S you can reference the LDO. The inerntal 1.1V reference has a +/-10% tolerance, so I don't see anyway around needing calibration on that in principle, although I've had good luck with the couple of inverted read builds that I've tried. I doubt narsil is referencing to the LDO either, but I'm not sure. I doubt it because generally you'd try not to use different methods for everything. OTSM 2S requires referencing to the LDO though, as there's just no other way for OTSM without using another pin. It just happens to get the benefit of a hopefully more stable reference.
Of course for FET+1, not triple, there's an extra pin available for indicator. On HD it's just a matter of defining that pin as the indicator pin and setting the use indicator option and you're in business. But HD doesn't really work right on e-switch yet.
Of course one more way is to just make a dumb hardware-controlled indicator. Just wire it to the switch. it will be on normally, and off when the switch is pressed. No programming obviously.
doing the last drivers of this batch programming, testing and calibrating today
also upgraded my testing gear a bit
XHP50 High CRI now for 2S
Heatsink upgraded now has fan running when I turn the switch on
the tip with ground is my switch emulation
Swapped the MF01 to NarsilM. Great driver. Works great! BAM!! Turbo. Smooth ramp. Feels like the Q8. Batt check, lockout…perfect. Did not use the sw indicator. Keep up the great work. Now re-charging…lol. Power levels are super!!! CW version. Saved the NW.