$100 Budget MONSTER-Lights w/ 15000+ lumens: Wurkkos TS32-Nichia 519a. Comparison with Chinese-LED Heavyweights: Haikelite, Jin Heng JKK76, multiple Nightwatches. (Summary & measurements on P. 1) LATEST: RIDICULOUS 20,000+ lumen pocketable NW NS14R v2.

I probably am the only reader who see flashing lights around this line, but thank you for the info.

Wonder why Austin didn’t just tell me so I would stop nagging him about sending me AM04 instead of JP40. I’t’s all good. He likely would have done the measurements anyway but I think my nagging and quoting of your JP40 review certainly sped up the process.

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If the AM04 performs the same as the JP40 then he doesn’t have a “better” product to sell and differentiate his products from others. :slightly_smiling_face: Check out my AM04 test report when it’s released and see if you agree with me or not.

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Sorry for the slow reply; I had a few things happening that prevented me from being able to reply earlier.

I find that one difficult to judge, since measurements are being done on so many different chargers and/or testers and numbers for specific batteries differ quite a lot from one person to the other, so it’s hard to say what the “real”/most accurate number is.

Best is to compare your own batteries capacities against eachother, all using the same charger/tester, same testing parameters (same charge/discharge current and same time between charging and discharging) and also preferably using the same slot if you test it on a charger with capacity testing function. (Preventing discrepancies between slots measuring slightly different.)

But back to the Opus: in my own experience I feel like it measures slightly on the high(er) side, but I have (currently) nothing accurate enough to reference it against, so it’s just my feeling. I will get in a electronic load tester (cheap Atorch DL24 though) in a few days, so I will see how those results will stack up against my Opus.

By the way: be aware that the Opus terminates discharging/testing at 3,0 Volt (I believe), which is a bit early compared to some other chargers like the Vapcell S4 Plus, which discharges to 2,8V I believe. At those low voltages, the differences in mA (capacity) are really small, but it could be a reason for minor differences between chargers.

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No worries thanks. I see what you meant about termination point making a difference. I am doing some more testing as you suggested, but so far it SEEMS like for capacity my Opus is obviouly not the best, but might just be close enough for me.

The other thing I’ve read is charge/discharge rates also make a difference. Opus seems to use 500 mOhm/ 500 mOhm.

Mooch measurements of JP40 show 4150 mAh capacity and 5.4 mOhm IR. For IR, Opus readings at 25 to 35 mOhm readings for all my batteries appear grossly wrong. For capacity I’m re-measuring capacity of my AM04 (JP40 twin) to compare. A lot of “seem” because I’m no expert. Anyone pls correct as needed.

Funnily enough I stumbled on some posts here on BLF yesterday, in which two other people stated that (their?) Opus also reads a bit on the high side, ‘confirming’ my own feeling I have about it. By what % it reads high remains difficult to say.

Yes, in general lower discharging currents are a bit more ‘accurate’/give a bit higher capacity reading than high discharging currents. I’m not sure if you know, but the Opus can charge/discharge at several currents though from 250mA up to 1000mA.
If the (rated) battery capacity is not too high, I generally discharge most batteries standard at 500mA, but when I test a smaller cell like a 14500, I prefer to test it on the 250 or 300mA setting. If the cells have a high capacity (for example a 5000mA 21700), I would generally discharge them at 700 or 1000mA, just so it doesn’t take half a day for the test to finish.

And if you want, you can also seperately charge up the battery on the Opus on a higher charge rate (for example 1000, 1500 or 2000mA) and then use (‘normal’) “discharge” mode on the Opus, instead of the “Charge/Discharge - Test” function, which limits you to the same charge current as the discharge current.
This speeds up the testing, certainly with batteries with bigger capacities, but you have to charge the battery ‘manually’ afterwards.

I’m 99% sure that Mooch measures the IR via the DCIR way/method (so with the battery under load), which is more informative/representative, than the ACIR way (which is with battery ‘at rest’) my “cheap” battery IR tester measures.

I’m not sure in which way the Opus measures, but regardless of that, it isn’t accurate for sure and there are a lot of factors that could be of influence. In general, most chargers with build in IR test function aren’t really accurate, although some seem to be way closer than others. But at least as they are consistent (for that reason, always test in the same slot), you can at least compare the consistency between several batteries of the same type and/or compare them against other types/brands, to see how those compare.

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Very good info thank you. I didn’t know the discharge rate could also be adjusted.

So far readings seem in the ball park. 3000 mAh reads around 3000, and 4500 mAh reads around 4500.

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Looks like the AM04 is more or less identical to the JP40, though slightly lagging behind based on his updated table.

@Mooch
Do the improvements only relate to temperature and longevity, while performance is identical to JP40?

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That version of the table was accidentally uploaded early (AM04 results have been removed). I can discuss the AM04 once the test report goes public (Patreon gets it first). I don’t have a schedule as I haven’t even completely finished the report yet.

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Probably lost among this fun battery shoot-out (won by AM04, likely a JP40 twin) is the flashlight that outputs 21300 lm. Also probably lost is the fact that it does 20,000 plus lumen with a single 21700 cell, which makes it likely the highest output of any single cell light on the market today.

The reason I bought these lights with nutty high output is simple: the “wall of light” effect, where a single flashlight would light up whole side of a hill. But the ones that I have so far is either too long or too bulky, and that has made this Nightwatch the most cherished and most often used since I bought it.

Without active cooling, no light could sustain Turbo output for long. This is not a problem for me because I mostly use highish ramp level, then Turbo once in a while for that OMG jaw-dropping fun moment. For me this is one really fun part of this hobby. At least and defintely more fun than sitting there for hours comparing Nichia Duv’s on LM3.

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Learning to be an ad writer. It’s actually 21 thousands, not 20, but thought I would turn down the hyperbole that I am guilty of too often ROFL. This picture describes well the “wall of light” that I often refer to - it lights up whole street blocks.

Of all the flashlights I have in this bracket of “budget monster lights,” this is far and away the most fun and most useable light. For one reason it is SMALL and secondly for once a Nightwatch has a good button. It still is no Firefly, but then no Firefly pumps out 21k lumen either.

Very highest recommendation for fun factor, and very useable sustained sub-Turbo output. On sale now with a big 30% discount, code CNY30F. For max output get the Nightwatch XP45 battery that Neal has, or better yet JP40 battery. (Yes I’m thinking of getting a second one.)

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These “budget monster lights” have throw measurements in the 600-700 meter range from the sheer 15k plus lumen output, but in general the beams are very floody. In fact I found the light with the most floody beam, probably Haikelite HK05, have the most impressive OMG wall-of-light effect.

Beam of a super thrower in comparison. Note I could adjust spill by pointing light more upwards or downwards. For this shot the light is probably horizontal.

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Portrait of Nightwatch NS14R v2 w/ some of my favorite monster lights. In my hobbies I have collected “toys” that are not necessarily practical or efficient, but do explore the “edge of the envelope.” Often they also possess off-the-chart fun factor.

This character is seen in a lot of Nightwatches, among them the Super Valkyrie that pumps out 13000 lumen from a single SFP55.2L, and this latest purchase, the NS14R v2 which measures 23000 lumen (not for long though LOL) from a single 21700 battery supplying fourteen SFQ55.4’s.

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I have most of the Nightwatch flashlights. They are awesome. They have limited production runs so you have to get in early if you want one.

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Where did you buy yours? First test result is for a place called diy500amp.com $5.65 per. I have never dealt with them before.

I already have Molicell 50B and Eve 40PL cells… Anything to be gained… For the NS14R v2 (WHich I just ordered.)… You are Killing me here @cannga :japanese_ogre:

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:joy: :innocent:
There is no need to buy JP40 if you already have those. I wanted to push past the 20k lumen mark for this NS14R v2 and that is the one and only reason I bought the battery. And the other reason I guess is I am always curious about ultra-powerful (high-current) battery. A little higher power not only is not noticeable but also brings faster Turbo stepdown.

I ordered JP40 from 18650-21700 website, and was put on hold for 3 weeks because it was not in stock. Finally Austin (the onwer) sent me AP40, which sounds like it’s a JP40 twin, and performs as expected in my amateur Turbo turn-on output test. I also bought from Neal the “Nightwatch XP45 80A” battery again mainly because I was curious. I personally wouldn’t have any problem ordering from diy500amp.com. He’s posted here a few times and so little money is involved.

The top 3 batteries
Nightwatch NS14R v2
Top 3 readings of each battery, fully charged and lights cooled before each run.
AM04 from 18650-21700 website: 21300 (top 3: 21000, 21000, 21300)
Nightwatch 45XP “80A”: 20500 (19570, 19570, 20500)
Molicel P45B: 18620 (18240, 18520, 18620)

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Thanks for the reply!

Is the above the cell he includes when you buy the NS14R V2 with a 21700 cell?

No, it was an extra $14 (minus discount). You did use the code CNY30F right?

BTW, the button on this is much better than our Valkyrie. No USB charging so no need to deal with the mind-bending USB charging “PROCEDURE” of Valkyrie :cold_face: :sweat_smile:. Valkyrie is a better thrower, this is a flooder and has a much more powerful wall of light, the equal of the other soda-can lights.

Also use standard length battery only. I was testing with longer button cell and it compressed the plate too much. Yeah no spring, just macho man’s big a** fat plate for best conduction.

Nice collection. Small company marching to its own beat and makes world’s brightest single LED light (N103s Valkyrie), brightest EDC light (A54U), and brightest single 21700 light (NS14R v2), what’s not to like?

Granted, it’s hobbyist class (I suspect there is something a hundred times brighter on some ship or helicopter somewhere), but I’ll take the hobbyist trophies, and the occasional quirky behaviors. :+1: :slightly_smiling_face:

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I agree, they are hot rods. Not in the same league as Elzetta or Malkoff but they are not trying to be.

My small collection of Game of Throne flashlights. Got too much free time on my hands lately lol.

I thought my latest Nightwatch, the A54U, was named by randomly grabbing alphabets and putting them together. Only to find out AVARITIA is actually Latin for GREED. BTW some A54U released to customers, like mine, has faulty USB -C charging function that over-charges battery, read about it on this thread CLICK HERE.

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