It might help to use thinner wires to the LEDs, or smash them down for lower clearance. I’m amazed my 22AWG wires were able to fit.
To get the wires out of the way…this might help
Those traces from those flat cables from battery packs might be good in this situation
By the way TK, it was your post regarding the outfit and “light saber” that inspired the grip on my contest light. Thanks for posting the link.
The reflector doesn't sit on the pill on any of them I've seen. Besides, it has to have an air gap there to apply clamping force to keep the LEDs in contact with the shelf. If the reflector seats first, the LEDs will be left floating inbetween and burn up.
Welcome Tarvos. I had the same question to RMM before I pulled the light apart and drew it out, 2x2P. Also read up more on the various type of drivers. Yes, this site is a gold mine if you dig a bit.
That driver and my 4-xml SRK clone is now my top flooder in my meager collection. Very happy with the driver!
Thank you all for the warm welcome and responses to my noobie question. I think I my have mis-described my issue with the reflector. It is not sitting on the wires or the pill at all. In fact I can set it in the housing and almost turn it. Only the very top of the domes on the leds prevents this. The only solution I can see(without going to copper pcbs, witch my be coming anyway, ala comfychair’s pic) is to space the pill up in the housing or somehow machine the mounting flange down on the reflector.
It seems to my feeble brain that there is a lot to be gained by getting the leds higher into the reflector( less light wasted lighting the inside of the flashlight).
Sorry for the bad description before, as I know your time is valuable and you dont have to be spending it on answering questions from me.
Thank you very much,
Steve
that clamps to Au LED mounting plate to the reflector. The spacing is set with 4 white plastic spacers on top of the LED on mine that some shave depending on needs.
Yours is different? One of a million clones mine is…but look just like ToyKeepers. Except for the missing fourth LED;)
Without a picture, I don't know your situation. Every SRK I have recieved was also out of focus, but each one needed the reflector raised. My favorite emitter centering ring/spacer to use in SRK's is the one that is in the original TR-3T6's, but I haven't been able to find a source for those spacers.
I think Comfy found some that are the closest I have seen. He has a thread or post on it some where. If you mod, it's good to keep a variety of them on hand.
thing I did, being newb, was to apply heat sink compound to screw base and screw reflector back to LED plate, then carefully screwing unit down so reflector fully reseated so I did not upset the domes on LED. I did this from the back as to not touch or scratch reflector in any way and added more AS5 to LED plate threads for any additional heat sinking if any. I then attached driver last step after checking reflector to bezel for seal.
Not sure what Tarvos has but correct method of doing this would be helpful to all if I was way off base.
Thx
That method sounds good to me Illuminaria, but I was talking about focus as Tarvos has been talking about a focus issue.
He's saying that if he screws the plate all the way to the bottom of the hole, and then drops the reflector in, the reflector doesn't go down far enough to contact the centering rings.
That's not the right way to assemble these lights.
Bolt the plate+LEDs+centering rings+reflector together, on the bench. Set the assembly with the front of the reflector face down, set the head of the light over it, then lift the pill/reflector up into the head by holding the wires. Wiggle it around by the wires until the threads are started, then from the driver side, 'un'screw it (go CCW, since you're looking at it from the back) into the head.(if the reflector & pill came out a little off-center when you bolted them together on the bench, you can loosen the center screw a bit, shift the reflector into place, then retighten the screw and continue screwing the assembly into the head)
If the reflector bottoms out on some part of the head before the threaded plate lands in the bottom of the bore, you need a spacer. Solid copper wire formed into a circle and placed in the bottom of the threaded hole works well, if you can find some the right diameter to give the right spacing.
Thanks!
I hope to have something a little more impressive to show at the convention next year. Perhaps a 2500+ lumen Cypreus 18350? 
At least I’ve upgraded the SRK since then, and should soon have time to start updating its firmware too. I’m hoping to give it a ZL-like interface, and hopefully also a variable-speed ramping strobe. I doubt I can fit both into a single attiny13a though.
I’m also tempted to add some lighting effects to a steampunked nerf gun… perhaps a bunch of electroluminescent wires around the revolving bullet chamber, with a motor spinning a contact plate to make the wires quickly light in sequence to look like electricity is arcing toward the barrel. Not sure; it’s just a vague idea at this point. Maybe I could fit a 4-color XM-L just inside the barrel and make it sputter random colors. I’m using one of these as the host (but mine isn’t painted so nicely yet) :
I think I could turn the EL wires on/off with a key I insert into the side (which also acts as a firing safety lock), and use the trigger to control the XM-L at the barrel.
There it is!! Thanx Comfy. I was doing wrong! I think that will solve the issue. Will reassemble using your method.
Thank you to all that responded. Each response led me a little closer to the Ahaah! moment.
Tarvos
s. Toykeeper, I had not seen that one. thx.
Ah, didn't catch that. Thanks ComfyChair.
Yup, that did it. So easy, I feel like a dunce. Very bright now with fairly nice center spot. Not as good as my rmm m6 mod-1 but every bit as bright. The body of the light warms almost instantly on high so not good for long use but should be ok for short bursts.
Thanks again
This driver beats the pants off my M6-mod1 using same Samsung 26C laptop pulls, about 600 more very un-calibrated OTF lumens, 3 against 4 LEDs, Also check your LED wire gauge and both now have spring mods. Were you talking about hot spot focus, then M6 rules.
Love quality of the M6!
Yes I agree m6 mod-1 is much nicer all the way around: better hot spot, better quality. My “same amount of light on high” is purely unscientific wall bounce in semi-lighted room using my old eyes for judgement.
I am using Panny 2900pf’s in both lights but have not changed the emitter wires or wired the springs. This was my first of any kind of mod and was not sure it would even work. I figured it was 50-50 that I would let the smoke out of the driver. With the heat issue I may or may not try the wire and springs. I may have reached the limit of this light for me. I have an HD2010 that is underwhelming now and needs a copper pill with a 5-6 amp driver!
Thanx for your comment and advice,
Tarvos
Do you still have these boards available for purchase? I want to build an LED light using multiple XM-Ls.
If you would like to build a driver RBD has compiled a list of drivers with the boards available from Oshpark here.
Can anyone help me with this. I don’t understand why i can’t get this driver working. I have used this JonnyC Star_momentary code, tried different fuse settings and cpu speeds 4.8MHz and 9.6MHz, PHASE or FAST, but not getting this working.
It will work with lower outputs ok but not higher. If input voltage is somewhere near 3.5V it will work with PWM modes ~1-50 ok but after that it will shut down. If i put input voltage even lower, it will work with little higher PWM modes, maybe somewhere near ~70-80.
What am i doing wrong?
EDIT:
I moved that capacitor C1, from diode to GND to straight + to GND and now it seems to work. Is there something we need to do after that? Am i only one having problem with this board?