I hope to have something a little more impressive to show at the convention next year. Perhaps a 2500+ lumen Cypreus 18350?
At least Iāve upgraded the SRK since then, and should soon have time to start updating its firmware too. Iām hoping to give it a ZL-like interface, and hopefully also a variable-speed ramping strobe. I doubt I can fit both into a single attiny13a though.
Iām also tempted to add some lighting effects to a steampunked nerf gunā¦ perhaps a bunch of electroluminescent wires around the revolving bullet chamber, with a motor spinning a contact plate to make the wires quickly light in sequence to look like electricity is arcing toward the barrel. Not sure; itās just a vague idea at this point. Maybe I could fit a 4-color XM-L just inside the barrel and make it sputter random colors. Iām using one of these as the host (but mine isnāt painted so nicely yet) :
I think I could turn the EL wires on/off with a key I insert into the side (which also acts as a firing safety lock), and use the trigger to control the XM-L at the barrel.
There it is!! Thanx Comfy. I was doing wrong! I think that will solve the issue. Will reassemble using your method.
Thank you to all that responded. Each response led me a little closer to the Ahaah! moment.
Tarvos
s. Toykeeper, I had not seen that one. thx.
Yup, that did it. So easy, I feel like a dunce. Very bright now with fairly nice center spot. Not as good as my rmm m6 mod-1 but every bit as bright. The body of the light warms almost instantly on high so not good for long use but should be ok for short bursts.
Thanks again
This driver beats the pants off my M6-mod1 using same Samsung 26C laptop pulls, about 600 more very un-calibrated OTF lumens, 3 against 4 LEDs, Also check your LED wire gauge and both now have spring mods. Were you talking about hot spot focus, then M6 rules.
Yes I agree m6 mod-1 is much nicer all the way around: better hot spot, better quality. My āsame amount of light on highā is purely unscientific wall bounce in semi-lighted room using my old eyes for judgement.
I am using Panny 2900pfās in both lights but have not changed the emitter wires or wired the springs. This was my first of any kind of mod and was not sure it would even work. I figured it was 50-50 that I would let the smoke out of the driver. With the heat issue I may or may not try the wire and springs. I may have reached the limit of this light for me. I have an HD2010 that is underwhelming now and needs a copper pill with a 5-6 amp driver!
Thanx for your comment and advice,
Tarvos
Can anyone help me with this. I donāt understand why i canāt get this driver working. I have used this JonnyC Star_momentary code, tried different fuse settings and cpu speeds 4.8MHz and 9.6MHz, PHASE or FAST, but not getting this working.
It will work with lower outputs ok but not higher. If input voltage is somewhere near 3.5V it will work with PWM modes ~1-50 ok but after that it will shut down. If i put input voltage even lower, it will work with little higher PWM modes, maybe somewhere near ~70-80.
What am i doing wrong?
EDIT:
I moved that capacitor C1, from diode to GND to straight + to GND and now it seems to work. Is there something we need to do after that? Am i only one having problem with this board?
