I may have filed down the driver tabs a little more than necessary. With all that extra-long extra-thick wire pushing from behind it, the driver pops out really easily. I actually had to hold it upside-down while putting the battery tube on, so that the batteries could hold the driver in place until it was screwed on.
Then again, since I’m planning to use it for testing firmware, popping out easily is kind of a good thing. If I decide to stop messing with it later I can easily just shim or glue it in place.
The driver seems to be a different thickness than the original, too. My battery tube tightens about 1/4 turn more than it used to (or perhaps 3/4 turn less).
Regardless, it works really well and I’m really glad you made the LED+ and LED- holes so big. My 3x22AWG wire bundles just barely fit.
Mattaus, Comfychair, Warhawk-AVG and Richard you bought a good 4-LED SRK clone, with failing driver, back to life. I do not have a stock pile of parts so the ready to go 32 × 350mA 7135, powering 4 XM-L2s, was awesome timing. Tested first day on bench supply, 11.2 amps; up from 6 amps into old stock 2 channel FET driver.
The thickness was discussed during development and a few different methods were suggested since not all clones tighten any further. Comfychair did a very nice job adding 3 or so solder bumps to the top side and filing them down until the fit was just right. I think he did this before adding the components but not entirely sure. A few pieces of the appropriate gauge wire soldered to the top side ground ring should work as well. I think the difference in board thickness is ~.5mm.
Hello,
I’ve lurked in this forum for some time and recently registered. I am amazed at the inventiveness and skill of the members here and have caught the “flashlight fever”.
I am going to attempt to wire the RMM purchased 32/7135 srk driver to a 4-xm-l srk. Do I wire the led’s in series or parallel.
Thank you,
Steve
Ok, got it done. Really not to difficult. Helps to have four hands though. Only issue is the reflector sits too high off the leds. Not sure if it did this before and the pill was not screwed in all the way before but its not touching the pill for sure. Focus is not so good. Need to spend some time trying to get it to sit lower.
The reflector doesn't sit on the pill on any of them I've seen. Besides, it has to have an air gap there to apply clamping force to keep the LEDs in contact with the shelf. If the reflector seats first, the LEDs will be left floating inbetween and burn up.
Welcome Tarvos. I had the same question to RMM before I pulled the light apart and drew it out, 2x2P. Also read up more on the various type of drivers. Yes, this site is a gold mine if you dig a bit.
That driver and my 4-xml SRK clone is now my top flooder in my meager collection. Very happy with the driver!
Thank you all for the warm welcome and responses to my noobie question. I think I my have mis-described my issue with the reflector. It is not sitting on the wires or the pill at all. In fact I can set it in the housing and almost turn it. Only the very top of the domes on the leds prevents this. The only solution I can see(without going to copper pcbs, witch my be coming anyway, ala comfychair’s pic) is to space the pill up in the housing or somehow machine the mounting flange down on the reflector.
It seems to my feeble brain that there is a lot to be gained by getting the leds higher into the reflector( less light wasted lighting the inside of the flashlight).
Sorry for the bad description before, as I know your time is valuable and you dont have to be spending it on answering questions from me.
Thank you very much,
Steve
that clamps to Au LED mounting plate to the reflector. The spacing is set with 4 white plastic spacers on top of the LED on mine that some shave depending on needs.
Yours is different? One of a million clones mine is…but look just like ToyKeepers. Except for the missing fourth LED;)
Without a picture, I don't know your situation. Every SRK I have recieved was also out of focus, but each one needed the reflector raised. My favorite emitter centering ring/spacer to use in SRK's is the one that is in the original TR-3T6's, but I haven't been able to find a source for those spacers.
I think Comfy found some that are the closest I have seen. He has a thread or post on it some where. If you mod, it's good to keep a variety of them on hand.
thing I did, being newb, was to apply heat sink compound to screw base and screw reflector back to LED plate, then carefully screwing unit down so reflector fully reseated so I did not upset the domes on LED. I did this from the back as to not touch or scratch reflector in any way and added more AS5 to LED plate threads for any additional heat sinking if any. I then attached driver last step after checking reflector to bezel for seal.
Not sure what Tarvos has but correct method of doing this would be helpful to all if I was way off base.
He's saying that if he screws the plate all the way to the bottom of the hole, and then drops the reflector in, the reflector doesn't go down far enough to contact the centering rings.
That's not the right way to assemble these lights.
Bolt the plate+LEDs+centering rings+reflector together, on the bench. Set the assembly with the front of the reflector face down, set the head of the light over it, then lift the pill/reflector up into the head by holding the wires. Wiggle it around by the wires until the threads are started, then from the driver side, 'un'screw it (go CCW, since you're looking at it from the back) into the head.(if the reflector & pill came out a little off-center when you bolted them together on the bench, you can loosen the center screw a bit, shift the reflector into place, then retighten the screw and continue screwing the assembly into the head)
If the reflector bottoms out on some part of the head before the threaded plate lands in the bottom of the bore, you need a spacer. Solid copper wire formed into a circle and placed in the bottom of the threaded hole works well, if you can find some the right diameter to give the right spacing.
